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·11 min read

Nikon D5500 vs D7200: Which Should You Buy?

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We have written an updated version of this article, comparing the new Nikon D5600 and the Nikon D7200. Click here to read the new article, or click here to open it in a new tab.

The newly announced Nikon D7200 has finally been given a significant performance boost, making the choice between it and the D5500 (a less expensive camera that provides identical image quality) a much more difficult one to make.  It’s also worth noting that the changes between the new D5500 and D7200 and their predecessors are not very significant, so you may prefer to save money and buy the older models while they’re still available. My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses that you can afford. Below, I’ll cover the differences between these cameras and explain which types of photographers will find the different features useful.

New In the D5500

If you’re deciding between D5500 and older D5300, here’s the difference:

  • a touch-sensitive screen has been added to the D5500
  • built-in GPS have been removed in the D5500
  • the top of the ISO scale has been increased by a stop to 25600, though it may be more accurate to say that the “expanded” ISO of 25600 has been incorporated as “native”
  • its a millimeter shorter and narrower, 5mm thinner, and about 60 grams lighter (about the weight of an egg) than the D5300

That’s it! The D5500 and D5300 are virtually identical, otherwise, so as the price drops on the D5300, many photographers who don’t care about having a touch-screen or who want built-in GPS will be able to pick it up at a great price. Currently, the D5300 body costs $597 while the newer D5500 body costs $747.

The Nikon D5500, left, is slightly smaller than the D5300, and about 60g lighter.
The Nikon D5500, left, is slightly smaller than the D5300, and about 60g lighter.

Nikon D5500 vs D7200: What’s the Difference?

To begin with, we can take a look at the most significant specs for the D5500, D7100 and the new D7200.

Nikon D5500 Nikon D7100 Nikon D7200



Price (body)
 $746 $796 $1096
Price (with 18-140mm kit lens) $1046 $1096 $1396
Body Material Sereebo, (carbon fiber reenforced plastic) body-chassis Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic
Dust/Weather Sealed Body None Yes Yes
Sensor Resolution 24.2Megapixels
 24.1 Megapixels 24.2 Megapixels
Anti-Aliasing Filter
(Reduces sharpness, prevents moire)		 NO NO NO
ISO Range 100-25600 100-6400
+12800
+25600		 100-25600
Total AF Points 39 51 51
Cross-Type AF Points 9 15 15
AF Motor In Body
(For Using Older AF Lenses)		 NO YES YES
AF Light Level Range -1 to +19 EV -2 to +19 EV -3 to +19 EV
Autofocus Fine Tuning
Adjustments		 NO YES YES
Shutter Speed Range 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		 1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		 1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Expected Shutter Life 100,000 Shots 150,000 Shots
Max Frame Rate 5 fps 6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)		 6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
Max RAW Burst
(buffer size)		 6 shots, compressed 14-bit 7 shots lossless 12-bit
6 shots lossless 14-bit		 18 shots 14-bit
Max JPG Burst
(fine, Large)		 100 33 100
Flash Sync Speed 1/200th sec. 1/250th sec.
(1/320th* sec, or slower,)		 1/250th sec.
Wireless Flash
(Built-in Commander)		 NO YES YES
Auto FP Flash Mode
(High Speed Sync)		 NO YES YES
Media Slots 1 SD / SDHC / SDXC 2 SD / SDHC / SDXC 2 SD / SDHC / SDXC
LCD Size 3.2"
1,036,800 pixels		 3.2"
1,228,800 pixels		 3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
LCD Articulated Yes No No
LCD Touchscreen YES No No
Built-in GPS No No No
Built-in WiFi Yes No Yes
Body Weight 420g (no battery)
470 (with battery)		 675 (no battery) 675 (no battery)
Body Size 124 x 97 x 70 mm 136 x 107 x 76 mm 136 x 106.5 x 76 mm
Battery Life 820 shots
CIPA Standards		 950 shots
CIPA Standards		 1,110 shots
CIPA Standards
Viewfinder Coverage 95% Frame
.82x Magnification		 100% Frame
.94x Magnification		 100% Frame
.94x Magnification
Video Codec MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		 MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		 MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
Video Resolutions 1920 x 1080 (60p, 60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)		 1920 x 1080 (60i*, 50i*, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)		 1920 x 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)
Video Length Limit 29 min 59 sec. 29 min 59 sec. 29 min 59 sec.
Headphone Jack No Yes Yes
Internal Mic Stereo Stereo Stereo

back view nikon d7200 and d5500

Build Quality

Perhaps the most obvious difference between the D7200 and the D5500 is in their construction. The D5500 body is significantly smaller and lighter, built of carbon-fiber reenforced plastics (Sereebo), while the D7200 is heavier and built for durability, with a metal (magnesium alloy) back and top, and importantly, it is weather sealed. Since the D5500 also uses a smaller battery, the carry-around weight of the D7200 is about 40% more1 Actually 38.6% than the D5500.

Whether this is an advantage or disadvantage depends on your photographic needs; some photographers (especially those with larger hands) prefer a larger camera with some ‘heft’ to it, while others prefer something more lightweight and easy to carry around, especially travelers and hikers. Needless to say, those who work in harsh conditions will also prefer the D7200’s weather sealing and heavier-duty construction, as a matter of practicality.

Nikon D7200 with grip
Nikon D7200 with optional battery grip

The Sensors : Exactly the Same

Like the previous generation, Nikon’s D5500 and D7200 both have 24-megapixel sensors, and neither one makes use of an anti-aliasing filter. Consequently, if you shoot RAW files, you will not be able to detect any difference in image quality between these two cameras, and since both cameras now use the same processor, the JPGs should be equally indistinguishable.

More AA Filter Info
The success of the D800e may have led directly to Nikon’s decision to produce an APS-C camera without an optical low-pass/anti-aliasing (OLP/AA) filter, but whatever led to the fact, the D7200’s sensor is naked. Before the D800e, all of the major SLRs produced their sensors with an AA filter: essentially an extra layer in front of the sensor that blurs the image slightly, in order to reduce the jagged edges and moire 1 that have traditionally been associated with digital capture. With modern improvements in image processing software, though, Nikon was confident that the moire and jaggies could be avoided without the AA filter, so they opted to remove it2 To be more precise, the Nikon D800e does have an AA filter, but it also has an AA-canceling filter, so it does not have one in practical terms. The D810 does not have an AA filter at all, nor do the D5500 and D7200. and allow the cameras to capture finer image detail.

With the success of the D7100, Nikon also decided to remove the AA filter from the D5300 and D5500’s sensors, and now the D7200. For all practical purposes, there is no difference between the sensors the D7200 and D5500, so there should be no difference in image quality if you shoot RAW. Though this lack of AA filter does provide the potential to for the camera to produce sharper images, don’t expect too much.

Why does that matter?
Comparisons of images produced by the D800 (AA Filter) and D800e (no AA Filter) have shown that the principle works; there are subtle improvements in fine detail in the D800e’s images. However, we should not expect such significant improvements in the D7200’s images. The receptors on the 24 megapixel sensor of the D7200 are already much, much smaller than those of the D800e. In fact, the D7200 and D5500 fit about 56% more pixels into the same sensor area as the D800e.

Why does that matter? Even with the much larger receptors of the D800, lens resolution has become a serious bottle-neck for image quality. Nikon has already produced a special list of lenses that can allow you make the most out of your D800 sensor. The dramatically higher pixel density of Nikon’s 24-megapixel APS-C sensors will tax lens resolution even more, meaning that the D7200 and D5500’s images won’t get much sharper unless lenses get sharper first.

Auto Focus Systems

Unlike most entry and mid-level SLRs, the Nikon D5500 has a very sophisticated autofocus system. While cameras like the Canon T6i and 70D have 19 autofocus points, the D5500 has 39, though only the central nine of them are cross-type 3 If you’re not sure what cross-type points are, or why they’re important, check out our short video on the subject, here. . This autofocus system, which also incorporates color information, has been adopted from the Nikon D7000.

The D7200, however, shares the same AF system with the flagship Nikon D4 and the D810: 51 AF points, including 15 cross-type… the best system available in a Nikon body.

For all but the most dedicated action photographers, the system in the D5500 will be more than sufficient, even if you’re buying a camera primarily for shooting sports. If your paycheck, however, is going to depend on your focusing system, the extra several hundred dollars will be well spent on the D7200.

Nikon D7200 af points, focusing screenNikon D5500 af points, focusing screen

Speed

When it comes to speed, the differences between the D5500 and D7200 are more modest that you might expect. The D7200 does have a top shutter speed that is one full f-stop faster than the D5500’s (ie, 1/8000th vs 1/4000th). When it comes to shooting bursts of photos, though, the D7200 only provides an additional frame per second over the D5500’s 5 fps (unless you’re shooting in 1.3x crop mode, in which case it will give up an additional frame per second).

However (unlike the D7100) the D7200 has a significantly larger buffer, allowing longer continuous bursts of shooting. While the D5500 (and D7100) can only shoot 6 14-bit RAW files in a row before filling the buffer and getting bogged down, the D7200 can shoot 18 RAW images in a row, three times more than the D7100 (though it still lags significantly behind Canon’s original 7D, which could shoot 25).

Shooting JPG gives you even more freedom to hold down that shutter button. The D7200 can shoot bursts of 100 frames or more (at 6 fps), just like the D5500. The D7100 was only capable of shooting 33 in a row.

The D5500’s Downfall

Flash. With the popularity of “Strobist” techniques over the past several years, flash photography has become increasingly important to amateur and semi-pro photographers, and this is where the D5500 falls short: it lacks high-speed-sync4 For a quick explanation of what high-speed-sync is, watch our video here. (Auto FP Flash, henceforth AFP) and external flash control with the built-in flash. External flash control may not be a big deal; many of us prefer to use radio-units instead… though the built-in IR system can be very useful with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS).

The lack of AFP, however, is a serious problem. Consider this situation: you’re shooting a portrait outdoors during the day, and you want to use a large aperture to blur the background… perhaps f/2 or f/1.4 . This will push your shutter speed beyond 1/1000ths of a second, much higher than the camera’s 1/200th sec. maximum sync speed. So, if you want to use a flash to soften the shadows or create a catch-light in the eyes of your subject, forget it: the flash will not sync. The same is true if you want to use flash for sports and a high shutter speed, and while you can purchase external command modules or radio transmitters for off-camera-flashes, there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP. You’d need to buy the D7200 instead.

In some instances, a neutral density filter can be used to bring the shutter speed down within the range of the D5500’s sync speed. There are several problems with the method, though: the image through your viewfinder can become quite dark, making it hard to frame your shot and making it hard for your camera’s AF system to pull focus, you lose flash power, if you’re shooting with a telephoto lens, shutter speeds at the camera’s sync speed might not be safe for hand-holding, and they’ll always be too slow for sports or fast action (if you’re balancing flash and ambient light).

Nikon SB-910, SB-700, and SB-500
A Nikon Flash Trio

All the Little Things

There are a few other assorted differences that deserve mention here, but they’re mostly the same differences that we saw between the D5100 and D7000. First, the D5500 does not have an autofocus motor built into the camera body, so it will not be compatible with the full range of (old school) Nikon lenses, while the D7200 does posses the motor. And speaking of “focus”, the D7200 is capable of micro adjustments to correct for front or back-focus problems on lenses, while the D5500 is not.

Nikon D5500 articulated screen
The Nikon D5500’s swivel screen.

As should be obvious from the images above, the D5500 has an articulated LCD screen, which some people find helpful for ground-level shots and video but others find a breakage hazard or amateurish.

The D7200 has dual SD card slots. It’s can be nice to have two slots if you want to record JPGs to one card and RAW to the other, perhaps sending JPGs to an Eye-Fi card, for example. However, if you only need storage space, a single slot is fine. These days, a single 64GB SDXC card costs only $30, and I rarely shoot more than 32GB per day, even at all-day events.

The D5300 has built-in GPS tagging, a feature that requires additional equipment with the D7200. This feature was dropped in the D5500, perhaps the result of the ubiquity of smartphones and apps such as GeoTag Photos Pro, but there are also reports of problems with battery drain using the GPS in the D5300, among other issues that I have yet to confirm.

Finally, if you are interested in video, the D7200 has been given a headphone jack for monitoring audio while you shoot. The jack is absent in the D5500 (and D5300, D7000). All of these cameras can shoot video at up to 1080p 60fps, except for the D7100, which can only shoot at 30fps at that resolution.

Which to Buy?

The Nikon D5300 and D5500 are great cameras, and I’d recommend them for the vast majority of amateur photographers, with the exception of those who need superior flash capabilities.

To summarize, you should buy the D5300 if you:

  • want a great, all-around camera
  • shoot primarily with natural light or studio strobes
  • need an articulated LCD screen for video or photos
  • want built-in GPS
  • want to save some money to buy the best lenses possible. At Amazon, the price for the D5300 body is $597

Buy the D5500 ONLY IF you:

  • really care about the weight of your camera. The D5500 weighs about 60g less than the D5300; that’s about the weight of a large chicken egg.
  • think you’ll really enjoy using a touchscreen.
  • find that the current prices are very similar. At Amazon, the price for the D5500 body is $747

Buy the D7100 if you:

  • don’t shoot bursts of action in RAW format and want the other features of the D7100
  • At Amazon, the current price for the D7100 body is $797

Buy the D7200 if you:

  • shoot lots of action, especially in long bursts
  • are hard on your equipment and need a more durable body
  • use flash for action or fill and need high-speed sync
  • use Nikon’s CLS and want to use the built-in command module
  • shoot macro (or other focus critical work) and need to make micro adjustments to your lenses
  • shoot a lot of video and want a simple headphone jack on your camera
  • don’t need to worry about spending a little more. At Amazon, the price for the D7200 body is $1097

For the sake of simplicity I’ve tried to focus on only the differences that, in my experience, will actually be important. There are, of course, numerous differences between the two cameras, though, and some features may be more important to particular photographers. If you think that I’ve left out something important, please feel free to let me know.

Please Comment!

If you have additional questions or comments, please let me know, below. I’ll do what I can to answer questions and clear up any confusion.

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Matthew Gore
Editor-in-Chief
Matthew Gore is the Editor-in-Chief and Administrator of Light & Matter Media.
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333 Comments

  1. I am into portrait photography, and I was thinking that I wanted to buy either the 5600 or 5500, so which one would you suggest? Or should I buy the 7200? Also what would be the best lens to get the sharpest and cleanest image quality? Thanks!

    Reply

    2. Hi Mackenzie,
      Sorry for the delay… I was traveling in India and didn’t get all of my notifications :-)

      For portrait photography, there’s no major advantage to the D7000 series over the D5000 series except that you can set micro-focus adjustment for lenses on the D7000 series, which can be useful if you happen to get a lens that doesn’t focus correctly (though this is pretty rare if you’re shooting Nikon lenses, and if you’re shooting Simga/Tamron lenses, you can make the adjustments with their lens docks instead). So, I’d go with the D5600 (the D5500 isn’t likely to be much cheaper), and spend any money that you save on buying the best lenses you can afford. However, if you can find a good price on the D7200 (you should be able to… it’s about $100 difference or less) and you don’t mind a heavier camera, it’s the better camera.

      There are lots of great lenses out there now, luckily, so it really depends on your favorite focal length. Short telephoto lenses are popular with many portrait photographers, so I’d agree with Caminante that the 50mm f/1.8G is a good, inexpensive option, and so is the Nikon 85mm f/1.8G (and the Tamron 85mm f/1.8 VC is first rate, optically, and has image stabilization, but costs quite a bit more than the Nikon).

      As a photojournalist, I find that the 70-200 f/2.8 lenses that I’ve used are excellent for shooting events and landscapes and are also great for portraits, so you might consider the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 G2 if you want something a little more flexible than a prime lens.

      Good luck!

      Reply

  2. I some years ago bought a D550, and was very close to up grading for the sake of it. I was disappointed with some of my photo results. I asked Matthew for advice as to what to go for, new to serious photographer at the time. He gave me good advice which saved me from making a big mistake, buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses, which I see he still advises. I did buy a better lens and took on other well advise. The long and short of it is, I still have my D5500 and love it, would not change. Matthew gives very good advice that is not biased. My advice is go for the D5500, it is still a very good camera, and of course a lot cheaper now from when I bought.

    Reply

    1. Hey Kevin, it’s good to hear from you again! Glad that the D5500 has been working out too. I still recommend the D5X00 series for most photographers… they’re excellent cameras. There have been a lot of changes in the camera world recently, but the camera remains much less important than the photographer.

      – Matt

      Reply

      1. Hi matt. Still using my d5500 thanks to your advice. I now have a new problem which I’m sure is my lack of knowledge. I have started using the camera in low light, and I’m having problems trying to auto focus, in fact will not always focus at all. Is this a lens problem or a settings problem. Cheers kevin

        Reply

        1. Unfortunately, this is a camera problem, although it affects all cameras. Since autofocus systems require sharp lines and contrast (one way or another, even with phase detection) to focus, when there’s not enough light for the camera to detect contrast, it can’t focus.

          The D5500 focuses down to EV levels of -1 (which doesn’t mean a whole lot in itself), but the D7200/D7500 focuses down to EV -3 (which is 1/4 the amount of light), and the D850 can supposedly focus down to EV -4 (1/2 the light of -3).

          So, the amount of light that your camera will actually focus in depends on the AF module, but it also depends on what lens you’re shooting with, since the camera focuses with the lens’ maximum aperture. So, an f/1.4 lens will focus in 1/16th the amount of light required for an f/5.6 lens.

          For subjects that are up close, many cameras have a focus-assist light that will illuminate your subject when light levels are too low… but a lot of people turn it off… so make sure that yours is on if you want to use it. This is only going to work for subjects that are 10-15 feet away at most, so if you’re shooting distant landscapes, this is no help.

          So, good lenses help all the time, assist lights help sometimes, and if all else fails, you can upgrade to a camera with a better AF system :-( .

          Hope that helps!

          Reply

  3. Two comments: First I have the D5500. The touch screen has reduced the need, as far as Nikon is concerned, of large buttons for control. I find the touch screen an inconvenience. I don’t like the use of the touch screen to enlarge or reduce the size of the LCD image. It is less exact that button controls.
    Secondly, I do like the D7200’s in-built motor(like the old D90). It gives me a greater range of lenses. I thought such motors were discontinued.
    I don’t think the author made any mention of the new AF-P lenses. Also an important consideration. Thanks. I just bought the D7200 (Brand New) from Japan(Free Shipping) for only $900(CAD). It sells in Canada for $1,300,00. If I may add, I have been in amateur photography since 1953 — some 65 years! I’m a 79 year old retired priest. In 1956 I photographed my Mother on her 50th Birthday with a bracket & Flash Bulb. I still have that photograph. I must say it’s a classic! In 1986 I photographed my Mother again on her 80th Birthday — this time with electronic “bounce” flash. Photography has so improved with electronic flash and Digital photography to mention a few technological inventions. It’s hard now to keep up with the technology — I still have a Land Line & no Smart Phone, but I love my Chrome Book! Cheers! From Canada.

    Reply

    1. This is a very old thread, but it seems to be still current. We now have fine full-frame compact mirrorless cameras, but they are way too expensive for the average amateur. The primary lightweight inexpensive Nikon with a lens mount is still the 5xxx series. I enjoyed this travel camera now for quite some time together with the outstanding Sigma 17-70 C. I still advise buying the 7xxx series only if you need its features (extra buttons, user settings, sync speed, flash control etc.) It is way bigger and heavier.

      Reply

      1. Hi Rene,
        I couldn’t agree more: Nikon’s DSLRs are still the best option for anyone who wants to shoot Nikon and not spend several thousand dollars to do it. Currently, Sony is the only company that has APS-C cameras and full-frame cameras with the same lens mount, though I’m sure that Nikon will release APS-C models within the next few years, but it’s going to take a good long while to get a new line of lenses built up for those, too.

        The uncertainty makes buying a camera little harder, but it’s an exciting time to be a photographer :-)

        Reply

  4. Not sure if I can get a response in time, since I am trying to take advantage of Black Friday deals today. My daughter is just starting out with photography and would like to specialize in dance photography (although a second interest is botany/plant pictures). A company ballet photographer she knows recommended the D5500 to her as a good starting point. However, I came across your review here after looking at the 7200. I’m just wondering if the latter might be a better option for her since she will be doing a lot of low-light performance, movment photography.? Even $600 is too much if it isn’t going to do the job she needs to do and has to be upgraded in a few years, so even though the 7200 may not be a typical entry level camera, it might be better adapted to what she wants to do. She has just started a job at her college as an assistant photographer at their arts center using their Canon 6d, and even though she has no real photographic experience or training, her full light (i.e. not low light) photos are good. It has long been a strong interest for her, but she has never had the chance to develop it before now (she intends to take some photography classes at college).

    Also, we were trying to figure out what to get her as a starter lens. We realize that she will need a f 2.8 eventually, but that may be too expensive for now. Would it be better for her to get the Nikon AF FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras rather than some of the package lenses that come with the bodies? Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Elizabeth,
      In terms of low-light performance, the D7200 will focus in significantly lower light, and it has better AF in general, but the image quality will not be significantly difference… they’ll have about the same amount of grain/noise. The D7200 does also have some advantages for flash and macro photography, so it’s probably a good place to start if she’s likely to get seriously interested in photography.

      Yes, a 35mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.8 would be a great place to start if she’s going to be shooting in low light. Alternately, a more flexible option (though more expensive) is the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ART series lens, which is incredibly sharp and also just as good in low light, and covers a nice zoom range. But it won’t fit every budget. A kit lens (particularly the 18-140 VR) is actually very useful to have, though, so you’ll have to decide between the flexibility of the zoom and the better performance for low light (but not necessarily great for everything else). Good luck!

      Reply

        1. I wanted to take a moment to comment as well if that is ok. I think for dance photography, especially where light might be challenging, the D7500 might be the better option then either the 5500 or 7200. The D7500 shares the same image sensor, processor and light metering as the D500. It maintains the autofocus system of the D7200. Because of this the D7500 is faster with a much bigger buffer then either the 5500 or 7200. It will also outperform both in low light image quality at higher ISOs. When I think of dance photography I think of sports and action and this is what the D7500 is for. In terms of lenses if you must go with a kit lens the 16-80mm is the one I would go for. It is slightly faster then the 18-140 and I think the range is more of what you will be using. A second lens could then be either a 35mm or 50mm prime which are supper sharp, fast and generally inexpensive. Curious to see if Matthew would agree. I currently use a D5500 and I love it, but I have buffered out when trying to shoot sports or any type of action.

          Reply

      2. The D7500 is also a good option, but at a significantly higher price, I don’t think it’s a better option. I’m sure that if you’ve looked through my comments before, you’ve seen me say “Buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford”.

        The D7500 does have a lower resolution sensor, slightly, so it could theoretically give you better high ISO performance, but the top ISO is only rated one stop better… and even there, if you take a look at the image quality at some usable ISO like 6400, the difference in quality is really pretty minor, especially if you downsample the image to the same resolution. So, I don’t think the ISO/low-light issue is a significant concern.

        The D7500 also has a bigger buffer if you’re shooting RAW, but since the D7200 already has a buffer of 18 raw files, that’s about all most people will need. Even when shooting basketball, I rarely shoot more than 10 or 12 shots at a time, and certainly no more than 15. If for some reason shooting tons of images in a row became necessary, you could always shoot JPG for a while, or shoot compressed 12-bit raw, etc.

        So, certainly consider the D7500, but with the deals on the D7200 recently ($300 off, yesterday), it seems like the way to go.

        Reply

    2. For this kind of photography, your daughter will be more happy with the 7200. The 5500 is for travel or occasional photography because it is smaller. I prefer it for street photography. The sensor is the same, and the quality of the photos will be the same. The 7200 has additional options, however, like external flash control.

      You might consider starting with a more expensive option, like a Sony Alpha in full frame if low light matters.

      Reply

    3. So, I was all set to purchase the 7200 yesterday evening, when I received input from a premier dance photographer in the US who pointed me in the direction of a used Nikon D3x due to its superior ability to work in low light etc. and still create superb quality images. Even though it is now an older model, I suppose it is a way to experience a full frame professional quality camera at a much lower price. There is one that is somewhat over $1000 that has 88,000 shutter count (less than a 1/3 of its life?).

      I’m leery about purchasing from an individual online, however, even though I have the option to purchase a 1 or 2 year protection plan.

      I’m also wondering if so much camera is overkill and potentially frustrating for a beginner who has yet to take her first college photography class, even though she has had some limited experience with the Canon 6d at her college (where she has been hired as an assistant photographer for their arts center) and a Nikon 3300 she has occasionally borrowed from a friend to take performance photos with. Even the 7200 had me wondering.

      I am also wondering if the D3x , for all its many virtues and battle horse reputation, is starting to fall behind in terms of the latest tech innovations?

      Any thoughts to share on whether it would be better to go with a new, 7200 with manufacturer’s warranties still in tact, or go nuke with this used pro-level version?

      Reply

      1. Hi Elizabeth,
        This is a tricky question, because the D3x was such a great camera in its day. It is very robust and reliable, and very fast. It’s a good camera for sports and journalists, generally. The problem is that the technology is pretty old at this point: the camera’s top native ISO is 1600. ISO, as you probably know, works in doubles (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, etc.). The top native ISO of the D7200 is 25600. That means it goes beyond 1600 to 3200, 6400, 12800, to 25600. Both cameras also have “expanded” ISO levels, but the quality in those is so bad that nobody (except maybe surveillance photographers) will want to use them. In fact, usually the top two or three native ISO levels are so noisy that you won’t want to use them unless it’s necessary. I don’t remember what the D3x is like at ISO 1600, but I know what my D300 is like at ISO1600, and I don’t use it.

        All of that is to say that the D3x will probably not perform as well in low-light as the D7200, despite being a full-frame camera. It also means that you’ll need to buy full-frame lenses for it, which are generally more expensive. Also, it may not matter to you, but the D3x is old enough that it doesn’t even shoot video… not even low quality video.

        I’d stick with the D7200.

        Reply

        1. Thanks, Matthew. I think one of the biggest issues for me is the cost of the lenses on top of the additional extra for the used camera. Then there is the concept of sending over$1K to an unknown individual, for a camera that I hope has no major issues to deal with – some were good about listing known issues, but other sellers seemed less involved with what they were selling. I think there are many more protections in place with the D7200, and I also sense that she can have a bit more fun with it at this stage in her photography career. Others have told me the D3x is a *really* good camera, and that it can almost shoot in the dark. But perhaps it takes time and experience to appreciate that, and right now she may simply perceive it to be old and frustrating to use (given her skill level)? I think you’re probably right, and I really appreciate hearing your take on this. Thanks

          Reply

  5. Hello Matthew,

    I was looking to buy a Nikon D7200 but after reading through your impressive blog I am almost convinced to go for D5500. I am going to use it mostly for my soon to start food blog so it will be really helpful if you can recommend some good lenses for this purpose. Looking forward to your response.

    Reply

    1. The D5500 sounds like a great option for food photography… though much of the work with food comes down to getting the light right, as you may know. There are a few different lenses that are popular for food photography. 50mm lenses are very common on full-frame cameras for food work, but the Nikon 60mm f/2.8 Micro will do double duty… getting nice overhead shots, and also super-fine details. For the D5500, a less expensive option is also available: the 40mm f/2.8 Micro. Some people will also go for a longer macro, like a 105mm, but with an APS-C sensor and a 60mm, you’ll probably be able to get away without it.

      On the wider side, I’d normally recommend a 35mm prime for a full frame, 24mm for APS-C but I’m a huge fan of the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, which covers a wider range and is just as sharp as all of the primes it replaces (or at least is very close).

      That said, food photography can be pretty forgiving, as long as the light is good… so you can also probably get away with a D5500 or D5600 with the 18-140mm kit lens. It’s not great for low light, but if you have a tripod or know how to bounce a flash, it will be just fine. Good luck!

      Reply

  6. Read all of the comments regarding the two cameras, good points of view on both. I own a d5500, have for last tword years and was thinking of changing, even thought the d5500 has served me well. Please advise what would be a good camera to upgrade to, regardless of make. I do enjoy landscape and portrait photography, and find I could do with a little more sharpness. Of course it may be that I am not using my D5500 to its full potential.

    Reply

    1. Hi Kevin,
      If sharpness is your goal, then upgrading your camera probably won’t make much difference. The D5500 already has a sensor that will be as sharp as that of the D7200, and it’s higher resolution than the D7500 and D500. To get sharper images, you’ll need either better lenses, better shooting technique, or both :-) That is, unless you’re ready to move up to a much more expensive full-frame camera like the D800/D810 (or D750).

      My advice is always to buy the cheapest camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford. The lenses are really going to make the difference in your image quality.

      Reply

      1. Thank you very much for your exerlent reply. After much deliveration I have decided to stay with the d5500 and go for a better lens. Now the nightmare starts, should I go for a nikon or third party lens, the choice is too much for my limited camera knowledge. I want a lens for landscape photography, and after reading so many reviews I have drowned in over investigation. Please advise a good lens for my needs and then I can start to enjoy the art of good photography. Thanks in advance

        Reply

        1. Hey Kevin,

          First, there are as many different types of landscape lenses as there are landscape photographers. Some people like to use wide angle or ultra-wide angle lenses to bring more foreground into the composition, others like to use telephotos (I do) to make a tighter, layered composition with stronger lines. So, first you should take a look at the types of pictures that you’ve taken that you like (or that others have taken) and decide on a type of lens… wide or telephoto.

          If you decide to go telephoto (also a pretty good portrait lens), I’d go with the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 G2 . It’s a great price for such a remarkably sharp, fast lens.

          If you go wide, it will depend on how wide. That’s a much harder question. Tamron’s 10-24mm G2 is good and much less expensive than the Nikon 10-24. Tokina makes a good 11-20 f/2.8 which is better for low light, but not as good as the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 for low light (which has a much more limited zoom range). The Sigma is more of a standard wide angle than an ultra-wide… and the 17-50 f/2.8 lenses out there are good alternatives, too.

          Anyway, start with a focal length range, and we can take it from there.
          – Matt

          Reply

        2. Hi Kevin,

          I shoot on the D5500 and use the Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 which is a great combo. It’s quite a fast lens and has a good built quality. It may be a little soft on the edges but overall it delivers a great performance and sharpness. I really like the lens. Just stop it down a little and you will see. Nikon just released the Nikon AF-P DX NIKKOR 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6G VR. I eyed at that because it is super light (and cheap) and together with the D5500 would be a fantastic combo if you wanna travel light and save some money. I read in most of the reviews that it is quite soft but again if you don’t want to print your pictures in bigger size it will be fine. Both of these lenses are ultra wide angle lenses. Matt just left a comment about some other lenses.

          I would go again for the Sigma. The Nikon D5500 has a really good sensor and will together with the Sigma 10-20mm great results. I took quite a lot of shots on this lens: https://www.instagram.com/timmi273/

          Cheers Tim

          https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/633609-REG/Sigma_202101_10_20mm_f_3_5.html

          Reply

        3. Hi Kevin,

          I have been using the Nikon D5500 for a little over a year now and It’s a great camera. The best lens in term of sharpness and resolution is probably the Sigma 18-38 1.8 ART. It is fast and tact sharp. The only downside is, it is a heavy lens and there is no image stabilization. I pretty much use this lens only on a tripod. I also have the Tokina 11-20 2.8 which has become my favorite lens. I use this lens as my walking around lens. I find this lens better then the Nikon 10-24 which is a little old now, not as fast or sharp, and is a better value as it is cheaper. The Nikon is also variable aperture, where as the Tokina is 2.8 straight through. To round off my lenses I use the Nikkor 18-140 Kit lens, if I need a little more reach. I have never been in a situation where I need a longer reach then 140. I am thinking of changing this lens to the Nikkor 16-80, as this is a faster and sharper lens, and I rarely shoot longer then 70mm.

          Dean

          Reply

  7. Hello sir ,
    I am planning to buy Nikon d5500 , but i heard it has very slow autofocus . I just want to know it is due to its kit lens or the problem is with the camera body.
    If i use another good lens the problem will be solve or not.
    Or i consider mirrorless camera between olympus m10ii and lumix g7

    Reply

    1. Hello,

      It depends on what you’re talking about. For photography, the autofocus of the D5500 is nice and fast. For shooting VIDEO, though, it (and all Nikon cameras) will be quite slow. Nikon uses a phase detection autofocus system for photography, but a completely separate “contrast detection” system for shooting video. Canon also used to, but their newer cameras have phase-detection pixels built into the imaging sensor so they can use phase detection for video, too. So, if you want to shoot video with fast auto-focus, I’d opt for a Canon like the 77D or 80D, instead. Alternately, the Sony a6500 has great video capabilities (in fact, most of the Sony mirrorless cameras do).

      Olympus and Panasonic make some great micro 4/3 cameras, and they generally have great autofocus for video and for photos. They’re also nice and lightweight. Unfortunately, their smaller sensor sizes mean that they’ll never be as good in low-light situations as APS-C and full-frame cameras, and they will ultimately be limited in resolution as well… though I’m not sure how much of a problem that really is in practice, for most people.

      Good luck!

      Reply

      1. Hello ,thanks for ur quick reply.
        But i am asking for live view performance of nikon d5500 amd i mostly do photography and not much need of doing video.
        So its a better option or d5600 has improvemnt or i should go for mirrorless ,
        I know they have smaller sensor but i think slow auto focus in live view will surely creates hurdles.
        Please share major Plus and minus of d5500
        I also think of eos 750d but size issue(bulky as compared to d5500) and focus point of only 19 forced me to go back.

        Reply

      2. Hello ,
        Please consider me a better camera for photography between the below shorlisted cameras
        If i choose DSLR – d5500,d5600,eos750 ,
        If mirrorless – fujixt10,lumix g7 ,olympus m10ii , lumixgx85

        According to you which is better ‘dslr or mirrorless ‘ and which model also

        Reply

        1. Sorry if I reply istead the author who, however, made and amazing review with real suggestions and thoughts. I never read a clear, fair and honest article.
          You are mixing few things.
          1. AF speed in photo (through the viewfinder) Nikon – Canon – Sony doesn’t make any difference, fast and accurate;
          2.D5600 doesn’t have any improvement over D5500, it is just a an answer to the Canon 1300D cause the beginners pay much more attention to the last model rather than the real specification. The AF speed in D5600 is not due to the camera, which is the same but the new AF-P lens whcih make (really) huge differences, and if you wonder if the lens fits on D5500 or older camera, yes it does. The cameras are really identical. They only added bluetooth instead wi-fi, so you will not notice differences in Imagequality, video quality, af speed or ISO (as well as D5300) because even if they have…… said…… to have expanded the native ISO…. at the end of the games in real world in astrophotography, or low light in general, there is no differences being both semi entrylevel cameras aps-c.
          3. Mirrorless at the same level offer same image quality but… pro and cons features, more AF points, more video capabilities (really incredible), light weight, silent shutter (if you shoot street photography is useful). as cons the viewfinder is just a virtual image so you don’t see the “real” reflected image. their battery doesn’t last so long (exeption the last expansive models), the feeling in hand is totally different from any dslr, can be good or can be bad it depends from you. Personally I don’t like.

          Suggestion for beginners is: detach your thoughts about the last model is cooler and better, mostly is not right, if it is just on the top end camera where really improvements are put in it. Basically, it is just a mixed of past and present features, taken by differnt camera, mixed in a features jam and put in a different order into the new camera with unremarkable chagings (see blutooth on D5600 or esthetic from D5300….I don’t know what on Canon 1300D, exactly as 1200D)
          BEST SUGGESTION: go into a camera shop and take in hand the camera you listed and just buy one of them following your feeling, cause you must feel at ease with your camera, on the settings and on the parameter changes, nothing is more important that feeling fine and no struggle with the menu or the commands or the buttons. if possbile try to shoot with them before buying.
          Best for you and Good luck!

          Alex

          Reply

      4. Hello sir ,
        Pls share ur mail id or twitter id , i want to know more details about these cameras

        Reply

  8. Hi there!

    Which one should I buy for low light shooting, image quality and jpg file saving? t7i or d7200? thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Rogerio,

      There isn’t a huge difference in low-light performance, but I’d say that the D7200 is slightly better… about 1/2 stop. Similarly, the D7200 may be a bit sharper or more contrasty because of the lack of AA/OLP filter on the sensor. I don’t think that either one of those really should be big enough differences to make a person choose one camera system over another. They both can shoot/save JPGs at a very fast rate… more than any person would practically use (100 or more shots in a row).

      I’d go with the Nikon D7200, unless you want to shoot video with autofocus. In that case, go with the Canon T7i.

      Reply

  9. BIG ERROR on this post, the D5500 DOES HAVE A MICROPHONE JACK!!

    I have the D5500 and it has a microphone/headphone jack.

    Reply

    1. I think you’ll find that I said that the D5500 has no HEADPHONE jack, and it does not. It DOES have a microphone jack, but that’s not the same thing… they are not interchangeable.

      Reply

  10. Hey thanks for this great info.
    I’m about to buy my first DSLR and lens.

    With your recommendation to buy the less expensive camera that meet my needs – Nikon D5500.

    I know that most of my shootings will be portraits and some street and travel photography.

    I thought getting the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 as my first lens and buy thr Nikon 50mm 1.8g in the future.

    What do you think?

    Reply

    1. I think that sounds like a great combination. I own a Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 myself, and I’ve used it much as you would… and it has been just about flawless. There are times when you’ll want to stop it down to f/4 to get the best sharpness in the corners, but the center of the frame is always excellent, and even the corners are always good. Good luck!
      – Matthew

      Reply

  11. I’ve learnt the hard way that most parties happen in low light and that cheaper cameras just struggle to focus in that situation.
    So for me being able to focus down to -3EV is crucial, all else is secondary.
    Though I’d like to have the live view to be as responsive as the Canon 80D, I’d choose the D7200 if I were to choose a Nikon. I’m in that lucky position that I can choose a new system again.
    Having looked at all the systems, it’s quite clear there’s no ideal camera – they all force you to compromise in some area or the other whilst gaining a few points over the competition in others.

    Reply

  12. I am looking to upgrade from my D50. I want to take close-up landscape/flower photos as well as action shots of wildlife. Any preference between the 3400 and 7200?

    Reply

    1. The one that springs to mind is that the D7200 has micro-focus adjustment, which is most important for people who shoot a lot of close-ups, and it’s also faster action camera in general. Any reason why you’re not considering the D5500/D5600?

      Reply

  13. Hi Matthew,

    Just wanted to say thank for your advice to buy the D5500. I’ve been using it now for a little over 3 months and I’m really happy. The image quality (and hopefully I) has really improved compared to the D5100. I’m really happy with the camera, so thanks a lot for your help!

    Reply

  14. Dear Matthew

    I’ve spent the last couple of days reading many different blogs about Nikon cameras. But your website stands out… it is absolutely amazing, so informative!

    I am an architecture student and really interested in capturing architecture, art and landscapes as well as portraits.

    The options so far (here in super expensive Switzerland):
    Nikon D5500 : 18-105mm f/3.5-3.6 – $899
    Nikon D7200: 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 – $1200

    This is going to be my first big investment in a camera and i am so confused which one i should pick.
    I really care for good quality pictures that i can print quite big and sharp. Sports/wildlife isn’t really my thing but i don’t want to miss out on quality if i feel like it some time in the future.
    At the same time for a student like me this is a big price difference. As already mentioned in a couple comments, i would like to get a good camera without regretting my choice one year later that i should have gotten the more expensive one.
    What do you think about the combinations and lenses mentioned above?

    Any advice/opinion would be very much appreciated.

    Kind regards,
    Suri

    Reply

    1. Hi Suri,

      I was just in Switzerland in September, and it was the most expensive hotel of my trip. Beautiful city (Zurich), though.

      Anyway, my general advice (as you’ve probably already seen) is to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and buy the best lenses you can afford. When it comes to image quality, there is no difference between the D5500 and D7200 if you shoot RAW. If you shoot JPG, they will be processed slightly differently by the camera, but the differences are not significant. So, don’t worry about that.

      The AF system of the D5500 is not as good as that of the D7200, technically, but it is way better that almost any camera available just 5 years ago. I used to shoot college and professional sports with 5 AF points, all along a horizontal row. The D5500 is just fine for most action shots, for most people (with the understanding that shooting action is not simple, regardless of what camera you use… it takes practice to get good shots).

      So, I’d go with the D5500, as long as you don’t think that you’re going to regret it later. That’s a pretty personal thing, so there’s not much I can say on that front.

      The 18-105mm lens is just fine, though I prefer the 18-140mm as a general, walk-around shooting lens. Neither one has amazing image quality, but they’re both very good.

      For architectural work, you’ll probably be better off working with either a prime lens (fixed length) or at least a shorter zoom range, because zoom lenses tend to create more distortion lenses than fixed focal length lenses. Wide-angle lenses are popular for architecture. A truly excellent lens is the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8; super sharp with minimal distortion (well, there is some, but it’s regular and easy to correct). There are a few good wide-angle zooms Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 is a good ultra-wide).

      So, if buying the less expensive camera will help you on your way to buying some high quality glass, then I’d stay stick with the D5500. If not, then get the D7200 and allay your worries about future buyer’s remorse! Good luck :-)

      Reply

      1. Hi Matthew

        Thank you so sooo much for your advice! :-)

        No “professional” salesman was able to give me so much information.

        I’ll take a look in to the Sigma lens… and try to finally decide which one i should purchase. Probably in the end it is all about practice.

        Greetings from sunny Zurich!
        Suri

        Reply

  15. I have the D5500 for the past year and I LOVE it! I am a growing photographer and upgraded from the D3200 to the D5500. I bought it with body only and bought a fixed 50. The combination works great for my portrait and landscape photography. Living in Alaska, I have the amazing opportunity to be surrounded by such beauty and find that the D5500 does a great job capturing it!
    About the touch screen, I am absolutely for it. I wasn’t so sure at first, but it can get better control of zooming in on detail in my pictures when Im looking back on them with clients. The flip screen is also great because I can close it when I don’t want water/oils to get on it. I use it a lot when I film, so I can get a good view of subject I’m filming and the screen.
    I vote if you are a photographer who is intermediate (or just beginning and have the extra money to spare) get the D5500 (and don’t forget that fixed 50!!). It’s a wonderful combination, and a wonderful camera. I haven’t been happier with a camera!

    Reply

    1. I’m thinking about getting the d5500 or the canon t6s. I’m a starter and just using it when I travel for landscaping, buildings, portraits etc.. would d5500 be good enough for me then? Ive read articles about the d5500 lags or has two clicks when taking photos in the live view mode. Just wondering if there is way to take faster photos without waiting 2 seconds each shots in the live view. Would changing the shutter speed make it not lag? Thanks!

      Reply

      1. Hi Leon,
        Generally speaking, shooting in Live View is going to be slow on any DLSR, compared to shooting through the viewfinder. I never use Live View with Nikon; it’s just too slow to focus. However, if you shoot with it normally, looking through the optical viewfinder, it’s nice and fast and you’ll have no problem with it. The shutter lag is just hundredths of a second. I don’t remember if there are ways to speed this up with the D5500… some cameras give you a mode that quickly switches over to the normal AF system and then switches back to the live-view system to speed up the focus process, which creates a couple of clicks as the mirror comes back down.

        The T6s is much faster focusing than the D5500 when using live view because of Canon’s hybrid phase detection AF system (similar to what is used in the optical viewfinder), but it’s still not going to be as fast as just using the viewfinder.

        Either way, changing the shutter speed won’t help, I’m afraid, since it’s not the shutter that’s causing the lag… it’s the contrast-detection autofocus system.

        Reply

        1. Thank you very much for replying. Another thing is for Nikon live view it doesn’t change in real live when I play w the exporsure makes it hard for me to know what the photo will turn out. I guess I’m so use to using my mobile for photos where I can play w the exposure before I take the pic :) Still deciding on the t6s or the d5500.

          Reply

          1. Leon, if I can give you my opinion, when in live mode get the good habit to look at the Histogram instead of relying on what you see on the screen regarding exposure.

            Reply

  16. Hey Matt, I’m looking for a nature camera that I can take in any condition including snow, rain, wind, sand, etc. I was thinking of just getting the D5300 since it has the same specs as the D7200 but do you think its worth going for the 72 because of the weather sealing since it will be exposed to poor conditions more often than not? Thanks and awesome review. Super helpful

    Reply

    1. Hi Kevin,

      Yes, if you know that you’re going to be exposing your camera to the elements on a regular basis, I’d definitely opt for the D7200 or D500 (the Pentax K70 and Fuji X-T2 are also well sealed against weather). Alternately, if it fits your shooting style, the D7100 is inexpensive like the D5500/D5300, but is well sealed, too.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. After looking into the K-70 it seems to have everything I want in a camera. However, I’m still hesitant due to the limited options of lenses for Pentax. There aren’t many fixed wide angle lenses unless I’m not looking in the right spot. Also, the battery seems sub par if I’m going to be out with it all day. How does the image quality compare between the K-70 and the D7200? How are the Nikkor lenses compared to Pentax and Sigma? Overall which camera has the better lens options? For the lenses alone it has me leaning towards the D7200 but the floating sensor in the K-70 has it a close second. Thoughts? Thanks

        Reply

        1. Hi Kevin,

          I really like the K-70 myself, although I don’t own one. Pentax’s own line of lenses is quite good, generally, but like Nikon, some are better than others. But also keep in mind that for the Pentax there are also some awesome Sigma ART series lenses available (though they’re not all weather sealed). So I’d make a list of the lenses that you want and/or are likely to buy, and check out the available lenses by Pentax and Sigma, and see if they’re likely to meet your needs. If not, then just go with another model. The image quality for landscapes with the pixel-shift system is really remarkable.

          If you haven’t already, you might want to take a look at my comparison of the K-70 with the D5500 and D7200, here: http://www.lightandmatter.org/2016/equipment-reviews/camera-comparisons/nikon-d5500-vs-pentax-k-70-is-the-k-70-cheaper-and-better/

          Pixel-shift aside, the K-70 image quality is probably a little better than a comparable Canon, and just slightly below the Nikon & Sony sensors in lab tests… though the differences for practical use should be minimal.

          Battery life is definitely a consideration. It’s simple enough to buy a few extras, but not everybody wants to carry around more stuff.

          Reply

  17. Hi,

    I didn’t read all the coments… but i woul like to ask for help:

    For landscape, street, both during the night and day, will the 7200 make any difference?

    Thank you

    Reply

    1. There’s no practical difference at high ISO (day/night). There will be no practical difference for shooting landscapes. For street photography, if you’re shooting action, the D7200 has a moderately better AF system and shoots at a slightly higher frame rate, and will be a bit more responsive generally. It shouldn’t make a huge difference, but it’s a difference.

      Reply

      1. Thanks a lot Matthew!

        I just read somewhere that the better af on d7200 would be a good help in night shooting. I also saw less noise on sample comparation with d5300 on every iso above 6000, that’s why i asked for your experience.

        I came from sony a77, which is fast, except When travelling by car…speed i tha i need in some África streets.
        I’m almost convinced on buying the d5300…

        Reply

        1. Let me just clarify what I said earlier: if you shoot RAW, the noise differences between the D7200 and D5500 are negligible. If you shoot JPG, then it will depend on your settings and you may get differences, but if you care about image quality, you’ll shoot RAW anyway.

          It’s true that the AF system of the D7200 is more sensitive in the dark, by about two stops. If there’s any sort of bright or contrasty edge in your photo, that won’t really matter, but if you’re shooting something that’s quite dark (night sky, maybe), then it can be a help.

          Reply

          1. I would love to shoot raw, but I got no time to process images, so i guess taking photos is a hobbie for me… but I see the difference in a rx100 jpeg and a a 77…lol. I’ll test the handling of both and follow your advices. Thanks again

            Reply

  18. Hi Matt,

    I am new to dslr but want to take good quality pics (outdoor and portrait). Was already confused between 5300 and 5500 and now you gave me another choice of 7200. Which one should I go for and if I am going for only body, will Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 VC PZD lens will work on all these camera bodies? And will this lense works for both outdoor and portrait

    or should I go for 2 seperate lens?18-140mm and another 50mm f/1.8G AF-S Standard lens?

    TIA
    Su

    Reply

    1. Hi Su,

      All three of the cameras that you mention will give you excellent image quality for indoor and outdoor portraits, as long as you know what you’re doing. Unless you’re also going to be shooting a lot of sports/action photography, there’s no need to go for the D7200 unless you feel that you’ll need to use high-sync flash, and most people don’t. My advice is always to buy the least expensive body that will meet your needs so that you can buy the best lenses possible.

      The Tamron 18-270 is designed for convenience, not for the highest image quality. It will be nice to only have to carry one lens, but you won’t get the excellent image quality that these Nikons can produce… for that, you’ll need lenses with more limited zoom ranges. The 18-140 is a good compromise; very good image quality with a good zoom range, and just about any 50mm lens will also give you great image quality… although if you’re looking for a super sharp lens, you might consider the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 ART series, or for a more classic portrait length, the Nikon 85mm lenses, or the new Sigma 85mm f/1.4 ART.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  19. Thanks for the review too. It helped a lot. I have a D7000 and will “upgrade” to the “D5500” because of the weight and size. I use it for travel photography, mostly landscape and street. I rarely used the flash features I will be missing.

    Reply

  20. Thanks! The d7200 sounds right for me. I’ll just have to up my budget. This will be my first DSLR, after coming up the ranks of Lumix point and shoot and lots and lots of DJI Phantom 4 drone video work. Sound is a big issue for me. The headphone jack really makes the difference.

    Excellent review.

    Reply

    1. Yes, that’s the kind of thing that can be really important to one kind of photographer and not at all important to another. Glad you’ve found what works for you :-) Good luck!

      Reply

  21. Hi,
    I was hoping you could help me. Recently my Nikon D80 has had some issues, so I’ve decided it’s time for an upgrade. I am torn between then d5500 and the d7200. Originally I was going to go with the d5500 because It’s slightly lower price point and good reviews, but then I stumbled upon a review that caused me to think twice. I would say I’m an amateur photographer. I typically shoot in manual and in RAW. One feature I loved about the D80 is the dials for shutter and aperture. As I’m learning to shoot in manual i need easy access and pretty immediate access to those. It looks like the d5500 does not have those as easily available? What were your thoughts when using them? I have read a lot of reviews, but most people use automatic settings so it doesn’t appear to be something that matters to them.

    Reply

    1. Hi Olga,

      The D80 was a great camera. For me, it would be hard to step down to the D5500 for a couple of reasons: first, even the D7200 is significantly smaller than the D80, and the D5500 feels very light and toyish if you’re used to the larger D80. At least, that’s the case for me… if you have smaller hands, you might like the smaller body of the smaller cameras. For me, the D7200 was a better fit (though still small).

      The D5500 also does’t have some of the basic features that the D80 did: shutterspeeds to 1/8000th and flash command, for example. Again, they’re not a big deal, but if you’re used to having them, the step down can be an annoyance.

      Anyway, the image quality from the D5500 will be much better than the D80, so it depends what is important to you. In general, I do say that you should buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and the best lenses you can afford.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  22. Great article. It helped me choose the D5500 over the D7200. I did go try both in an airport shop to see how they felt. I was initially put off the D5500 as it was so light it felt like I’d damage it, however I do a fair bit of travelling and running up mountains so I’m more likely to take a lighter camera out with me. The price was also £463 with 18-55 VRII which was £170 cheaper than just the body of the D7200, this means I can get another lense for the same price. I’m upgrading from a D5000 so having a larger sensor, WiFi and touch screen should make quite a difference. Thanks

    Reply

  23. Just want to know that which one you do advice? D5500 or T6s! Ive been searching all your comparisons but couldnt find any difference between nikon and canon! So please tell me which one is more suitable for an amateur like me? Nikon 5500d or canon t6s/i ?
    Thanks you

    Reply

    1. Hi Gond,
      Ultimately, the camera you choose doesn’t really make much difference. The differences between cameras these days are so minor, that you’ll get good results with whatever camera you choose, as long as you know what you’re doing.

      With that said, the Nikon d5500 is capable of slightly higher resolution photos because of its lack of an anti-aliasing filter on the sensor, and their sensors generally have modestly better dynamic range (they’ll get more detail in the shadows of bright shots, more highlight detail in dark shots, etc).

      On the other hand, the Canon T6i/s have much better live-view focus and video focus, they have high-speed flash sync, better touch screens, and some people prefer the layout of the controls (especially the T6s’ rear exposure compensation dial).

      Whichever you choose, consider the more important fact that you’ll be buying into a camera SYSTEM. Each camera system has access to great lenses, but make sure that the lenses you want to use are available and check the prices: some Nikon lenses are much more expensive than Canon, and visa-versa. Excellent Tamron and Sigma ART lenses are available for both. Also, if you want to use a lot of flash in your photos, consider the advantages of the Nikon CLS (creative lighting system) vs Canon’s more typical flash system.

      And if you haven’t already considered it, look at the Sony a6300. :-) Good luck!

      Matthew

      Reply

  24. Dear Matt,
    I am interested in night sky photography (stars + Milky Way).
    Would the Nikon D5500 be a good bet or would I need to go for the D7200?
    Thanks!

    Reply

    1. For the night sky, the D7200 doesn’t have any significant advantage over the D5500: they’ll give you about the same results, as long as you’re shooting RAW. Go with the D5500, and spend the difference on an f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens, and you’ll be in good shape.

      Reply

  25. Great article. I’m currently upgrading a D60 to accommodate my desire to capture my twin daughters’ high school volleyball and basketball games. Lighting is miserable and as I’ve learned by both experience and research I need a fast lens and high ISO. I rented a 70/200 2.8 this weekend and learned that even at the 1600 highest ISO or the extended mode, I couldn’t get shutter speeds fast enough for great shots without underexposing. Burst is currently an afterthought as light is the bigger bottleneck right now. Flash isn’t really an option. Do you think the 5500 can handle this application with the right lens or do I need to look higher? I can pretty much buy what I want, but don’t want more than I need. Thoughts?

    Reply

    1. It sorta depends on what kind of shutter speeds you managed to get with the f/2.8 lens at ISO 1600. As I’m sure you know by now, high school volleyball and basketball are among the hardest sports to photograph because of the low light. If you know your typical exposures with the f/2.8 at 1600, you can calculate exactly what you’d get with higher ISOs and larger apertures.

      For example, at f/2.8, if your ISO was 1600 and you got 1/60th second, then at 3200 you’d get 1/125 sec, at 6400 you’d get 1/250th, at 12800 you’d get 1/500th sec, which is probably fast enough for volleyball, though of course, 1/1000th is better. If you have an f/2 lens, you can double all of those shutter speeds, so it would be 1/1000th at f/2 at 12800. If you have an f/1.4 lens, you can double those numbers again: 1/2000th sec at f/1.4 at ISO12800.

      So, the question would then be: are the shots at ISO 12800 usable? That will depend on how you want to use them, but generally, the answer is yes if you don’t have to crop them too much and if you’re using them at web or small print sizes. Your skill at noise reduction will come into play if you’re shooting RAW.

      You will get significantly better image quality if you shoot with a full frame camera like the Nikon D750 or D610, and if this is your primary purpose, it’s probably worth considering. Your image quality at ISO 6400 on the D750 will be more like the D5500’s ISO at 1600. But don’t bother getting the D7200 or D500… the ISO differences are negligible.

      Reply

  27. Hi Matthew,

    Thanks a lot for this review. I currently own a D5100 and did several photography courses in class and I’ve been reading books looking up stuff online. I believe in getting the shot right in the place rather than editing in Lightroom. Though I feel my images don’t pop and are not the sharpest.

    I own the following lenses:
    Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm 1:1,8G (love that for street photography and some portraits shoots)
    Sigma 10-20 mm F3,5 EX DC HSM ( I like the wide angle but feel it lacks sharpness though I use it around f8-11)
    Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 55-300 mm 1:4,5-5,6G ED VR (for wildlife)
    Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm 1:3,5-5,6G ED II (kit lens, I stopped using it)

    I would like to upgrade the body, wanna stick to the DX and have considered both cameras. I could pick them up with the 18-140mm (to replace my 18-55) for 800 USD (D5500) or 1000 USD (D7200)

    I also like to take videos, I have a GoPro Hero 3 and just started to use my DSLR for the last trip and I like to mix both the GoPro and the 5100 which turned out quite well. I read that the 7200 can’t really produce 1080/60pf (it crops by 1.3) whereas the 5500 can.

    I like shooting landscape, like waterfalls & lakes, wildlife and a bit of portraits. I’m not into sports photography. I can afford both but would also consider to upgrade my lenses if you have some recommendations. I just feel the D5100 has been a nice way to get in there but can’t produce the sharpness I want but maybe that is just a feeling. I think my focus is right, there’s usually no camera movement (tripod or otherwise I know my limitations when I shoot handheld)

    Cheers
    Tim

    Reply

    1. Hi Tim,

      There are all sorts of ways that a bit of blur can creep into an image, but the camera itself is rarely at fault. However, if the camera is the culprit, the lack of AA filter on the D5500/D7200 should help. Similarly, there are a lot of different things that contribute to creating an image with “pop”, but the main one is the quality and contrast of the light when you’re shooting… and of course, the post processing makes a significant difference.

      In any case, as long as there’s nothing wrong with your lenses (decentering, optical damage, etc), they’re certainly models that should be sufficient to give you high resolution if you’re shooting from a tripod at f/5.6-f/8 (that’s where resolution is highest on an APS-C, although it’s not necessarily the best aperture to shoot).

      You’re right that the D7200 can only shoot 1080 video at 60p in 1.3x crop mode, while the D5500 can handle it at in full frame mode… though it may be at a lower bit rate. I don’t shoot much video myself, so I can’t be of much help there. Do keep in mind, though, that most movies (film and current bluerays) are shown at 24 or 30 fps, so 60 is really only necessary when you’re shooting for slow-motion or when you want more info to edit down from.

      Regardless, it sounds like the D5500 should meet your needs nicely and leave you a little extra in your budget for new lenses. I’m a big fan of the 18-140mm for general shooting… it’s nice and sharp while still being compact. There are lots of great lenses out there these days, though, and I’d be happy to make some recommendations, if you have a particular focal-length range in mind. I’m a big fan of the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8… it’s remarkably sharp. I feel the same way about the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD, which I like even better than Nikon’s VR II.

      Reply

      1. Hi Matthew,

        Thanks a lot for the recommendations. I’ve thought and researched a lot to choose on of these two cameras. I purchased Lightroom 5 (didn’t want to go for the CC or 6) and just got into it and yes, I can only glimpse that post production is a major factor.

        Thanks for pointing out the 24/30 fps, sometimes I just like in deed to do slow-motion. I also feel the D5500 will meet my requirements, I just liked the feel of a D7100 when I had it in my hands the other day. But I haven’t tried the D5500 so I will check it out today at a store. I just feel I’ll ask myself the question what if I purchased the D7200 instead of the D5500, but then I could also ask myself why I don’t go for a FX camera, it’s a never-ending story and by this I could indeed spend more money on good lenses.
        Oh, great to hear that the 18-140mm is a lens you like, I will definitely consider it.

        I feel I’m ok on the wide angle end with the Sigma 10-20mm for now and then if I get the Nikon 18-140mm I’m ok with that one. The Nikon 35 mm is nice and handy so I’m looking at the zoom lenses. I have the Nikkor 55-300 mm 1:4,5-5,6G ED VR which I find ok. Don’t you think I’d miss a bit of zoom if I went for the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD, which is a great lens as I just read some reviews.
        I feel as a beginner it’s bit irritating to spend more money on a lens than on the camera itself but I guess that’s how we all started :-)
        Thanks a lot for your advice, much appreciated.
        Tim

        Reply

        1. I know that it seems odd to spend more on a lens than on the body, but keep in mind that the lens is really the more important piece of equipment, and will last you longer. I don’t know how you shoot, so you’re the only one who can say whether you’ll miss the zoom, but I can say that I (and most photojournalists I know) shoot with a 70-200 most of the time, on a full frame camera, and the range is just fine. On an aps-c, the you get the equivalent of a 300mm f/2.8, which is pretty amazing. You may already know that, as a general rule, the more zoom range that is packed into a single lens, the harder it is to engineer top image quality at any particular spot in that range… so you’ll usually get better image quality with shorter zoom ranges and prime lenses.

          Good luck!

          Reply

          1. Yes, very true, I get it with the lenses, valid points there. That’s the advantage of the APC that 200mm are actually 300mm. I felt while shouting wildlife from safe distance with 300mm I missed a bit of an additional zoom to get some nice face shots. I just bought the D5500 in a store and tested it for about an hour before buying. I also tested the 18-140mm quickly and it’s a a very nice lens indeed. Thanks a lot again for all the advice, really helped me made a decision based on my needs and not on what I could need.

            Reply

  28. Hi, i’m considering the D5500 plus Nikon 300mm F4e PF Ed vr with tc14e 111 converter for a light weight kit for bird/ wildlife photography and occasional butterfly macro stuff.. My concern is the lack of AF fine tune. Is this likely to be an issue with this lens?

    Reply

  29. Hello Matthew, thanks for highlighting and letting us know the main differences between these cameras, I have a nikon d90 that it is getting real old now and i want to replace it, trying to decide between the d5500 and the d7200. i like that the d5500 is a lot lighter than my d90 for when going on vacation and waking around… I when to the store to check them out and they both feel great in your hands. I bought the sigma 18-35 1.8 waiting to be deliver and I own a couple of lenses (sigma 50-150mm f2.8, nikon 70-300mm vr1, nikon 35mm 1.8) my question is that all this lenses are pretty big, would they feel kind of out of balance with the d5500? and would it be a worthy upgrade from the nikon D90? I am feeling that I should go straight to the d7200 for an upgrade…. all i do is taking pictures of my kids when playing sports inside and out and also portraits, a lot of low lights situation

    Reply

    1. Hi Ronny,
      There are a couple of options. Personally, I think that the D7200 and the D5500 feel pretty small compared to the D90, but you can fix that easily by adding a battery/vertical grip to the camera… and on the D5500, that has the added benefit of doubling a relatively short battery life. I’m not sure that Nikon makes one, but there are plenty of 3rd party ones, starting around $25.

      If you’re taking a lot of sports photos, then you might consider the D7200 for the reasons that I mention above, but ultimately, it’s up to you to decide which is right for your budget and level of interest :-)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  30. Hi Matthew,
    I’m very fresh to photography and contemplating between the d550 or d7200. I am looking at doing a photography course to learn all about everything so a real freshy. I will mainly be doing my children with props ect in my home and also landscape shots both with and without children and adults in them. Looking for some advice on which camera is best and which lens. From what I have read in the comments cheaper body and most expensive lens, so thinking the d550? but unsure on which lens’s to- get could you give some advice? I have no idea, there are a few I have seen you name Nikon 35mm f1.8, Tamron 70-200 f/2.8uc usd, sigma 18-35 f/1.8) thanks

    Reply

    1. Hi Michelle,

      It sounds like you’re headed the right direction in taking a photography course! The fact is, the camera that you choose doesn’t make much difference these days… they’re all really amazing. If you have specialized needs, some will fit those needs better than others, but in general, you’re better off buying ANY camera and practicing and learning how to use it than spending more time trying to decide on what the perfect camera is.

      That said, the D5500 sounds like a great option for you. If you want professional portrait type results, you’ll also want to get a flash unit that can be used off-camera. Learning how to do flash photography portraits is pretty easy once you have down the basics of your camera (to learn the basics, watch my video, here: The Three Basics ). But you can put that off for a while if you want to get started with natural light. As for a lens… the Nikon kit lens, the 18-140mm VR is a good place to start. It’s not great in low light, but it’s very good in just about any situation otherwise. Then, when you’ve been shooting pictures for a few months, pick out your favorite photos and look at where the lens was set when you shot them (you can do that in Lightroom or any other photo management software). From there, you’ll know better where to spend the real money on your expensive lenses. Although, it’s hard to go wrong with the 3 you mention above, along with the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 ART.

      Reply

  31. Hi Matthew
    I’m looking to purchase a new camera but would be a major upgrade for me as for many years just used Panasonic TZ series going for the great zoom advantages.
    The choice has really got my head done in seeing diff comparisons then reading another and making me look at others.
    I’ve had no experience with these type of cameras and only know when going to Disney the photographers there use a Nikon 7100 and the shots are great….see told you i was a novice. I tend to snap away at anything I find interesting and do many videos but those could still be done with the Panasonic.
    I seem to have nailed it down to Nikon 5500/7200…saying that I was looking at 3300/7100 but thought that if newer models available then would be better to get as opposed to buy older model just to upgrade shortly afterwards.
    Reading your replies to others comments shows how much you consider everything.
    Many Thanks

    Reply

  32. Dear Mathew,

    I am in a confused state of whether to pick T6i or Nikon D5500. Saw lots of videos and also personally went to store and check, and end result, again mixed bag of doubts. Where i like the light weight and the smart touchscreen in D5500 i also liked the video and live mode functionality in T6i.
    And since i am interested in portraits, landscape and wildlife pics i also like to have some nice quality videos also to be taken.

    1 Also while comparing the pics in both dslrs, i found pics taken from 5500 a bit deviated from the original skintones (a bit overexposed) where as the pics from t6i maintained the originality.

    2. The videos taken in dim light using 5500 after say about iso 1200> there appears to be grains where as T6i again gave nice quality comparatively.

    3. Is the livemode and video recording that painful in NikonD5500 as we cant change the aperture size ?

    4. Also would like to know since NiKON has intriduced the new lens AF-P VR can the noise be reduced while video shooting and what is its effect on video quality and focus department ?

    Reply

    1. Hi Abe,

      Every camera will have its strengths and weaknesses; most of them can be fixed by shooting correctly and making some adjustments (either in Post or in how you shoot).

      1) Neither camera should consistently over-expose. If it does, you can set the camera’s exposure compensation to correct it. As far as skin tones are concerned, both cameras will render a JPG according to an algorithm that the manufacturer believes makes a nice looking image. However, if you shoot RAW, you can always adjust the skin tone after you take the image to get it exactly how you like it. You can create Lightroom (or ACR) presets to help you do so. You can also use a color management system (including a color checker) to get exactly correct color in your photos. If you don’t want to deal with all of that, then go with the one you like initially, but with the understanding that it might not always produce the results you like (different lighting conditions, light types, backgrounds, etc). The difference between owning a camera and being a photographer is being able to deal with those situations :-)

      2) I don’t shoot much video, so I can’t help you there. With the Canon, shooting at 1/3rd stop below a “full” ISO stop (100, 200, 400, 800, etc) will give you better grain than the full stop. It shouldn’t make much difference with the Nikon.

      3) Yes, the Nikon isn’t very flexible while shooting… you need to make your aperture adjustments first.

      4) Nikon’s AF-P lenses are their answer to Canon’s STM lenses. They both use stepping motors, which are quieter, faster, and more accurate than micro-USM motors or standard micro-motors. They’re great for video. Canon currently has more options in STM (and they also have a new Nano USM lens that’s even better than their STM). So, if video is a major concern for you, go with the Canon. Their hybrid-AF for video and live-view is much better than Nikon’s.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  33. Hi Matt,

    I’m keen on the D5500 – I think it with the 18-140mm zoom and a 50mm prime looks an ideal initial set-up for me, since I’d prefer a lightweight body.

    The one thing I’m concerned about is I’ve heard about front/back-focusing issues, particularly with fast prime lenses. I was looking at getting the 50mm f1.4 (and intending to use it at f1.4 quite a bit), and possibly a macro lens in the future. Do you know if this is a big issue for the D5500, and is AF fine-tune a key feature in your opinion?

    Thanks!
    James

    Reply

    1. Hi James,
      Certainly front/back focusing issues are most evident when using large aperture primes, but I haven’t personally found them to be very common… although it’s very common for people to have inconsistent missed focus with large aperture primes and to blame it on the lens. If it’s a micro-AF adjustment issue, the focus will ALWAYS be off, consistently (except for those rare times when the person misses focus in the opposite direction). Missed focus is, unfortunately, relatively common with all large aperture primes of every brand. It takes some practice and experience to get good, consistent focus… though you’ll still get it right most of the time even when the lens is new.

      I own cameras that have AF adjustment, and I also own software that allows me to set the micro-adjustment automatically (Reikan FoCal). And although I’ve tested my lenses, I still generally haven’t set any adjustments to my lenses… it just isn’t necessary. So, no… I don’t think it’s a key feature, unless you’re doing a lot of macro photography, perhaps.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  34. Hi Matthew!

    I would like to upgrade from a point and shoot camera to a DSLR. I would be capturing nature and wildlife with the new camera, still photos and videos. Which camera should I buy?
    My list includes D5300 / D5500 / D7200 / D750.
    Which one is the most suitable of the above considering the auto focus capability while shooting videos?

    Thanks in advance!

    Reply

  35. Matthew,

    Thanks for putting together such a great review. If you have time, I have (what I think will be) a pretty quick question. I’ll never really understood DSLR cameras, aperture and hoe they work together. Recently I have been taken a class and have come along far enough to be comfortable shooting in manual mode. I’m coming from a d3000 and am looking at the D5500 and D7200. I think the pictures taken by either would be indistinguishable from each other.

    Specifically, I am looking at the differences between the 2 cameras when shooting manual. Are the adjustments (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focusing and metering modes) on the D7200 easier to reach/adjust than the d5500, or does the touch screen on the D5500 make adjustments as quickly as the d7200, just in a different way?

    Thanks in advance,

    Jason

    Reply

    1. Hi Jason,

      For the three basics (Aperture, Shutterspeed, ISO) both cameras are pretty simple, as long as you’re familiar with them. For me, the D7200 is easier because it has two dials, so one can be Aperture and the other Shutterspeed, but frankly, it’s pretty rare that anyone shoots in full manual. Usually, it’s partial manual… Aperture Priority, usually… and a single dial is just fine.

      They also have a dedicated metering mode button, but one is on top, and the other is on the back of the camera. Unfortunately, the D7200 layout is more similar to the cameras that I use on a regular basis, so it’s more intuitive for me, and the D5500 is a little harder to work around, but that’s because of my experience with other cameras. If you’re coming from a d3000, the opposite should be true. Regardless, the controls are all there… it’s just going to be a matter of getting used to them; eventually, if you use them, they’ll be second nature and it will be quick and easy, even if they take some time to get used to at first.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matthew,

        Thanks for your reply. I appreciate your insight. It sounds like either would work just fine after I learn where all the buttons are. I understand you recommend getting the least expensive body that will work for me and that makes the choice the d5500. I think the touchscreen is a great idea and I’m excited to see it in action.

        Thanks again for taking the time to answer,

        Jason

        Reply

  36. Hi Matthew,
    Your article was very helpful and really helped me understand some of the differences between these camera bodies. But, I still have a few questions you could hopefully help me with.

    First things first, I’m a recent college graduate, so I’m not made of money and would like to save wherever I can, but I also want to take great photos that I can potentially make prints of. I’ve been shooting with a Nikon 5000 for the last 6 years or so and I feel like it’s probably time for an upgrade (plus I’m going on a safari in Kenya with my family soon, so I’d like to take the best photos I can while I’m there).

    I’ve been pondering whether to go for the 5500 or the 7200 because I mostly enjoy wildlife, landscape, and the occasional sports photography. I could see the amount of bursts I could take with the 7200 being particularly useful with wildlife, but at the same time, I feel like I can do adequately by just timing my shots and taking the 6-burst with a 5500. So, I think, between the 5500 (currently $797) and the 7200 (currently $1,097), I’m leaning towards the former. However your article made me think about potentially trying to save money on my body with the 5300 ($697).

    I also would like to upgrade the lenses I currently own: Nikon 18-55mm non-VR, Nikon 55-200mm VR, and Nikon 55-300mm VR. I am considering the following lenses: Nikon 35mm f/1.8 (standard affordable high-aperture prime), Nikon or Tamron 70-300mm VR/VC (decent telephoto for wildlife and Kenya), Nikon 24mm f1.8 (more expensive high-aperture prime), and the Nikon 12-24mm f4 (one of the best wide angle lenses from what I’ve read)

    Sorry for such a long post, but now on to the questions:
    1) Which of the bodies do you think fits best with my situation? (I’m currently thinking 5300, unless there’s some other significant change that would make the 5500 better for me)
    2) Do you think a Nikon/Tamron 70-300mm VR/VC would be good enough for my Kenya trip? (I’d really prefer not to have to spring for a lens like the 70-200 f/2.8 since that’s probably out of my budget)
    3) Do you have a preference between the Nikon 70-300mm VR vs. the Tamron 70-300mm VC? (I have heard people claim that the Tamron is sharper)
    4) Would you specifically recommend or warn against any of the lenses I’m considering?
    5) Which few lenses (maybe three?) would together form a good kit for me? I’m currently leaning towards Nikon 35mm f1.8 (sharp, good for low-light), Nikon 12-24mm f4 (good for landscapes, architecture), and Tamron 70-300mm VC (good for wildlife)

    Thank you in advance!
    Gabe

    Reply

    1. Hi Gabe,
      It sounds like you’re pretty well informed and understand the differences, so I will probably mostly be confirming what you already suspect.

      1) I’d also go with the D5300 in your situation. The only reason that I’d recommend the D5500 instead is if, for some unusual reason, you frequently horribly under-expose your photos (by at least -3 stops) and have to push them dramatically in post-processing. There is a sensor difference that can show up in that rare situation. Otherwise, go for the D5300. As you’ve no doubt already heard me say: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford. [If you accidentally under-expose by 3 stops on a regular basis, then forget getting a new camera and take a photography class instead :-) ]

      2) My parents-in-law recently returned from a trip to Africa (mostly Tanzania, but also Kenya) and I spent quite a bit of time going through their photos with them, culling and editing for some prints. One of the things that really surprised me (having never been myself) was how close they were to the animals. They got good results with medium telephoto lenses (100-200mm, mostly), so if your experience is similar, the 70-300mm should be sufficient, especially when you consider the 1.5x crop factor. There will always be something cool to photograph that is beyond the range of the equipment that you have with you, so you just need to decide where to draw the line. The 300mm sounds reasonable.

      3) I also would recommend the Tamron 70-300 VC. It’s one of those rare lenses that is cheaper and sharper than the Nikon/Canon equivalent (which are both good lenses to start with).

      4) All of the lenses that you mention are good lenses; there’s no reason to warn you against any of them as far as optical quality/performance is concerned. When it comes to utility… it really depends on how you shoot and what type of images you like. With a full frame, I’ve spent a lot of time shooting with 16-35s (along with the Tamron 15-30 and Tokina 16-28), and I find that I hardly ever use the wide end of their zoom range (except for very specific tasks, like photographing bathrooms for real-estate photography). I tend to go about as wide as 24mm… maybe 20mm sometimes, but rarely anything less. If you like to shoot in the style that really emphasizes close foreground elements, then maybe you’ll find more use for something that wide than I do. However, it’s an expensive enough lens that if you haven’t already, you should rent one for a couple of days and see how you like it, or at least spend a good while playing with one in a store. But that’s just a matter of taste… and I suspect you wouldn’t be asking me about the lens if images from that lens didn’t already suit your taste.

      5) Again, I think that the three choices you mention would be very heavy on the wide-angle end for me… but that’s according to my style preference, which is not yours :-) Personally, as I photojournalist, I carried two camera bodies, one with a 24-70 f/2.8 and the other with a 70-200 f/2.8, and that covered me for most things. I like the compression and separation that I get from the 70-200, and that’s the lens I use most. So, for me, I’d probably think about the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 ART instead of a Nikon prime (the Sigma is just as sharp as either, believe it or not… it’s a remarkable lens) and the Nikon zoom. Maybe a good 50mm lens to go along with it. But lens selection is very much an artistic choice, so I’ll leave that to you.

      Good luck!
      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks so much for answering my questions in such detail! The only question I have left is something I realized since I made my original post. On Amazon, it seems like I can get the 5500 refurbished, for $565. Whereas the 5300 new is $697 and I don’t think theres an option to buy that one refurbished. Additionally, Amazon has bundles where I can buy the refurbished 5500 along with a tripod, SD card, a 2.5x tele, and a new bag (many items I could potentially use) for roughly the same price as the new 5300.

        I personally have no experience buying refurbished photography equipment, but (from what I understand), many times, the equipment is pretty much new, but just can’t technically be listed as “new”. So, do you have experience buying refurbished items? Would you recommend that since it seems like a better deal? Any other advice?

        Thanks,
        Gabe

        Reply

        1. Hi Gabe,

          I actually don’t have any personal experience with buying refurbished, but my understanding is the same; if it’s refurbished by Nikon, it’s probably just as good as brand new. Bill Minton, who was a writer and copy editor for this site before last summer, bought a refurbished 70-200 f/2.8 from Canon, and we tested it and it was perfect.

          But that’s if it’s refurbished by the manufacturer. If it’s a 3rd party, who knows? I don’t know how well that sort of thing is regulated, if it is at all. I’d be suspicious if it’s not factory refurb.

          That said, the other stuff that you’ll get along with it (tripod, tele, bag, etc) are junk. In particular, the 2.5x type tele lenses are awful, and things like cheap UV filters are more likely to cause you problems with flare than help in any way. It’s stuff that will let you down. So, who knows… maybe you’ll find a use for some of it… but I wouldn’t make any sort of decision based on it.

          – Matthew

          Reply

  37. Hi, my son plays youth football, other outdoor sports. We will be using it mainly for action shots, and family pictures while on vacation. Trying to decide on the D5500 or D7200. What do you suggest?

    Thanks.

    Reply

    1. Hi Steven,

      If sports are going to be a priority, then you’ll probably benefit from getting the Nikon D7200, as long as your budget will still also accommodate an appropriate lens (that’s just as important as the right body). If not, you’ll also probably be just fine with the D5500, though you may have more focus misses at first… practice with your system will improve that… and of course, you’ll have to live with lower frame rates (but it’s a good idea to time the best shot and get it right rather than rely on the machine-gun method anyway).

      So, go with the D7200 if you can. The appropriate lenses will depend on the shooting situation you expect: if you can shoot from the sidelines, you can work with a 200mm rather than something longer. If you’re shooting during the day, outdoors, you’ll be fine with an f/5.6 lens most of the time. If you’re shooting from the stands, you’ll probably want a 300mm lens. If you’re shooting at night under lights, an f/2.8 lens. (the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 is a great compromise between excellent quality and moderate price, compared to the Nikon equivalent).

      Good luck!
      – Matthew

      Reply

  38. Hi Matthew, just wanted to say thanks! I’m amazed at the time and thought you put into your content and all your responses. You’ve got to be the friendliest expert I’ve run across in photography research and I’m definitely bookmarking your site. You rock!

    Reply

  39. Hi Matthew,

    Thank you for the great review. I currently shoot with a Sony rx100 iii. I have been thinking of moving up to a DSLR before an upcoming trip to Iceland. Most of my photography is landscape and architecture with some video. After doing my research I am pretty much settled on the D5500 with the 18-140mm kit lens and I was looking at also getting the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 ART lense for low light and night shots. I know the sigma lense does not have image stabilization and was wondering if there is another lense similar to this one that has the stabilization.

    I imagine that I would probably use this lense mostly on a tripod in low light situations so it should not be a huge deal not having stabilization, however I was just wondering what else is out there. I’ll probably continue to use my rx100 iii for video and when I don’t want to carry around the DSLR.

    I was also wondering if you heard anything about an upcoming d5600. I was wondering if they will fix the lack of being able to change Appature in live view

    Thanks

    Dean

    Reply

    1. Hi Dean,
      The D5500 sounds like a great option for you, along with the 18-140mm.

      It’s hard to say anything bad about the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8, though it is a large, heavy lens… and if you’re using a tripod, then you won’t really the large aperture unless you’re shooting something like the night sky. If that’s the case, then there’s nothing like it. The next best option would be something like the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8, if you want a zoom, or a large aperture prime (Nikon’s 35mm f/1.8G is not too expensive), but there aren’t many options for APS-C that are wider than 24mm.

      I haven’t heard any rumors of a D5600 coming, yet. If your trip is coming up late in the summer, you might consider the new Pentax K-70, which matches or bests the Nikon D5500 in many ways… although, as far as I know, lenses like the Sigma won’t be available in Pentax mount.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      2. Hi Matthew,

        Thank you so much for your reply. I would be using the sigma lens mainly for night shots and star trails. I have been really torn between the Canon T6s and the D5500 but I think the slightly better image quality and dynamic range of the Nikon seals the deal. My main concern on the Nikon was not being able to change Appature in live view in manual mode.

        I am leaning for Canon or Nikon as I feel they have the best lens lectionaries. so as I get more advanced, I can always upgrade to a better camera and keep the lenses.

        Reply

        1. Ah ha. It is actually no problem to change the aperture in Live View mode, even if you’re shooting manual…. it just takes a combination of pressing the exposure compensation button while using the dial, or use the touch-screen to make the changes.

          When you’re shooting video, it’s true… you can’t change aperture while you’re shooting, you have to set it before you start. That’s a bit of a pain, I understand, but I don’t shoot much video, so it’s not something I’m very familiar with.

          – Matthew

          Reply

  40. Hi Matthew –

    My questions primarily pertain to speed. I take a lot of photos of hummingbirds and was wondering if you thought the additional speed of the 7200 would be beneficial for such shooting. I have read some online tutorials that also suggest use of flash and didn’t know if that may also improve when using the 7200 vs the 5500. Finally, I have a son that ski races and didn’t know if that might also benefit from the spec bump on the 7200.

    Other than the issue of speed, the other real draw for me to the 7200 over the 5500 is the weather sealing. I understand most lenses are not sealed but I have to imagine that acts as an insurance policy might be worth the couple hundred more. Also, studier build is appealing to me. Thank you for your feedback!

    Reply

    1. Hi Andy,

      Yes… the extra step of shutterspeed will probably make a difference with hummingbird photography, assuming that the light is good enough to use it. That’s one of the rare cases where it may help. That said, it’s not necessary; if you shoot while the wings are at the forward or back position, they momentarily are stopped (or moving very slow) so a much slower shutterspeed will stop them. I’ve used 1/1000th with good results. But 1/8000th will be better than 1/4000th, for those in-between strokes of the wing.

      The flash won’t make a difference. If you’re going to use flash to take high-speed photos, you’ll use a slower shutters speed (high-speed-sync won’t work). On full power, the duration of most speedlights is around 1/1000ths of a second (some are even faster). At 1/16th power, the duration will be about 1/16,000th of a second… faster than any shutter speed… and of course, if you use lower power, the flash will be even faster. The trick, then, is to shoot when the natural light is low, and you set the exposure such that 1) with no flash, the exposure would be black but 2) with a flash (or better yet, a couple of flashes at low power), the subject is correctly exposed. This way, the duration of the flash becomes the effective shutter speed… it’s the only light in the exposure that shows up. And it’s faster than a mechanical shutter.

      Anyway… yes, some weather sealing doesn’t hurt. And some lenses are weather sealed. Those would be good reasons to go ahead and get the D7200.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  41. Hi Matthew!

    Great article, I really appreciate the much needed information. I am trying to decide between the D5500 and D7200 as well. I will primarily use the camera for my family pictures that include travel, dim lighting in my home for holiday photos and children indoor sports (flourescent lighting and high action). I am very frustrated by the poor quality of my current camera and lens which is why I am looking to upgrade. My current photos are turning out blurry and dark. I currently own a Nikon D3000 with a Tamron lens 18-270mm F 3.5-6.3.

    Thoughts on an easy to use camera with great quality indoor action pictures. I figure if I can solve the action shots my outdoor pictures will be great! Thoughts and thank you again!

    Reply

    1. Hi Melinda,

      There are 3 things that are important when taking indoor, low light pictures:
      1) Getting the exposure right. Usually, any modern camera will do a good job with this, but if you’re getting pictures that are dark, that’s where the problem is… always. Any camera, in just about any lighting situation, can take a picture that is nice and bright (though not necessarily GOOD pictures: doing so may require a shutter speed that is so long that everything will be blurry from camera movement or subject movement). So, this isn’t really a camera-based problem… this is a photographer-based problem. I can help you fix it, with any camera… including your current one. It will just take a little time spent learning a few new things.

      2) The sensor’s low-light performance: how noisy and grainy the pictures get at high ISO settings. There’s more to say about this, but the D5500 and the D7200 have the same sensor performance, so this isn’t an issue for this decision. Both will be significantly better than the D3000.

      3) The len’s maximum aperture. Consider this: if you buy a 50mm f/1.8 lens (for $200 or so), it will let in 2.3x more light than an f/2.8 lens. An f/2.8 lens lets in 2 times more light than an f/4 lens. And f/4 lens lets in twice as much light as an f/5.6 lens. And an f/5.6 lens lets in more light than your Tamron lens when it’s zoomed out to 270mm at f/6.3. That difference between f/6.3 and f/1.4 or even f/2.8 is dramatic… the larger aperture lenses (like f/1.4 – f/2.8) let in much, much more light.

      Now, you may already know all of that, and I’m just wasting your time here, but I don’t want you to waste your money on a camera that isn’t going to fix the problems that you have. Using either the D5500 or D7200 with your current lens won’t solve your problem. Even if you use them with one of the kit lenses that comes with the newer cameras, you’ll still be struggling against an f/5.6 aperture much of the time.

      My recommendation is to buy the D5500, and the best lenses that you can afford. The Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 is a good place to start; not too expensive, but it gives you an f/2.8 that will be a big help in low light. If you don’t mind sacrificing some flexibility for a little extra light, the Sigma 18-35mm has a shorter zoom range, but lets in twice as much light, and the optics are excellent (it’s priced accordingly). Or, you could just get a Nikon 35mm f/1.8G, or a 50mm, and use those when you’re in low light, and keep your current lens for day to day shooting.

      If you need more telephoto range, and more light, then the lenses get much more expensive. The Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD is probably the best option in that zoom range, but it’s not cheap. Similarly, the Sigma 50-100mm f/1.8 will give you even more light, but with a shorter zoom range.

      Good luck!
      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thank you for the fantastic information and help! Really appreciate this detailed response – best advice that I have been given by anyone. I just need a great camera/lens to capture my family and all of my children’s moments. Do you think staying with a Nikon is still the better choice over a Canon?

        Reply

        1. Hi Melinda,

          Canon/Nikon doesn’t really matter much; they both have their advantages, but they’re both excellent camera systems. If you’re familiar with Nikon, there’s no reason not to stick with it, and their sensors (made by Sony) are probably the best you can get.

          – Matthew

          Reply

  42. Hi there,
    I found this article to be very informative. But I’m still torn in a decision on which camera to get.

    I know zero about cameras aside from point and push the button to take a picture
    I’ve been looking at the D5500 and the D7200.

    I’m one of those people that believes in get the best that you can afford so you don’t turn around later and wish that you’d gotten the next model up. But with that being said I’m not sure if the added price difference is worth it.

    My wife and I travel a lot and participate in a number of outdoor activities and really would like something better than phones to capture photos and videos with. Mostly outdoor live action photos and videos with wildlife as well as still photos and photos that are taken over great distances in areas like in the mountains of the north west. With many being in low light settings. I’m not concerned about the money issue just more of the practicality of one versus the other.

    Any suggestions on which would better suit the outdoors?

    Thank you

    Reply

    1. Hi Caleb,

      If you have read through the comments below, you may have already seen me say this… but my general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera body that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford. It’s the lenses that are going to make the biggest difference, and also where you’ll spend the most money (and you’ll keep them the longest).

      As you may have noticed from the site, I live in the Northwest myself (Seattle), and spend a fair amount of time in the mountains and forests around here. There are two schools of thought on which camera is better for heading out into nature. The D5500 is smaller and lighter, so it’s less trouble to carry. The D7200, on the other hand, is more ruggedly built and weather sealed. You’ll have to choose which is more important to you, but when it comes to image quality, there is no real difference between the two (if you shoot RAW… and you should).

      Weather sealing sounds good, at first, until you think about the fact that most lenses are not weather sealed, you’ll still have to keep your equipment dry. I’ve owned metal and polycarbonate (plastic) bodied cameras, and I’ve used them hard… and I’ve never broken either one. So that’s also not a huge concern, for me. The battery life of the D7200 might be something to keep in mind, if you’d prefer not to carry an extra battery.

      That said, the D7200 is, obviously, the better camera. If money really isn’t a concern, then go ahead and get it, as long as it’s not going to keep you from getting the lenses that will allow you to get the quality out of it.

      The kit lens (the 18-140mm VR) is a good, every-day, walk-around lens. The image quality is surprisingly good, and it’s very versatile.

      For telephoto work, I’d recommend a stabilized 70-200 f/2.8 lens. The “f/2.8” means that it lens in a lot of light (twice as much as an f/4, which is twice as much as an f/5.6). These lenses are intended for professional use, so the optics are top notch. The Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8 VR II is an excellent lens, but I’d opt for the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD, which is much less expensive and at least as sharp as the Nikon, and it doesn’t suffer as much from some of the Nikon’s optical flaws (focus breathing).

      At the wide angle end, an excellent lens option is the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ART series lens. It will give you lots of light, and incredibly sharp optics. Alternately, the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 or a Sigma or Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 would be a more versatile option.

      But there are lots of options, for lenses, depending on how and what you like to shoot. If you have any more questions, feel free to let me know.

      Reply

  43. Hi, Gore
    I am a fresher to this photography. Very recently i bought a new camera ,Nikon D 5500 on which i felt some difficulties while capturing a photo. The problem is that when i shoot a photo through the viewfinder ,the shutter action is on time (immediately when i press the capture button) But the i could feel a difference with delayed shutter action while i take a photo using the rear screen. the camera always works in the auto mode. Please let me know whether that is a mechanical problem or any other issue.

    Thanks and regards
    George

    Reply

    1. Hi George,

      Yes, that’s normal. When shooting using live-view and the rear screen, the camera is using a different auto-focus system (contrast detection, rather than phase detection), which plays a role in this, but I’m not sure that that’s the only reason. Whatever the case may be, it’s normal for there to be more shutter lag when shooting in live view mode. I find that to be the case when shooting with Canons, too.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  44. Hi Matthew,

    I am hesitating between the Nikon D7200 and D5500: my main interest will be wild field astrophotography. What would be your advice?

    Cheers

    Reply

    1. I’d go with the D5500; I don’t see any need for the additional features of the D7200 with astrophotography; the D7200 is basically just going to give you extra speed, and astrophotography isn’t really a speed-critical area of photography :-)

      Reply

      1. Hello Matthew, Graden here and I am an amateur photographer looking for a either the D5500 or D7200 primarily used for outdoor use such as nature shots, close and far, and surfing shots, far, from the sand obviously. Haha. What do you recommend as far as camera and will you also list a few lenses I should pair with the things I am wanting to shoot? I also would like a good lens for indoor portraits. Thank you!

        Reply

        1. My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses that you can afford. As far as image quality goes, the D5500 and D7200 are essentially identical. Where the D7200 separates itself is with its faster shooting, larger buffer, and better autofocus system. For most people, I’d just recommend the D5500, but if you’re really serious about the surfing shots, the D7200 will be a little better. (More frames per second, more frames before the buffer fills, faster shutter speeds… though 1/4000 sec. is plenty for anything).

          As for lenses… a good telephoto option for shooting from the beach would be a 70-300mm. Tamron’s version is excellent, and not too expensive. For indoor portraits, an 85mm or 50mm f/1.8 lens would be great. There are options for every budget. I’m a fan of the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 ART, but if you want to buy something less expensive, Nikon’s 50mm f/1.8G and 85mm f/1.8G are significantly less expensive.

          For general landscape photography… well, there are lots of lenses to choose from, depending on your taste. I happen to like the Nikon 18-140mm for general day to day shooting, and it covers a good range for just about everything. If you want something more specialized, the Nikon 17-55 or Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 are great lenses for wide to mid-range, and a 70-200 f/2.8 with that covers mid to telephoto. They’re just not cheap.

          – Matthew

          Reply

  45. Great article! This coupled with dxomark.com saved me a lot of time I imagine.

    Just one quick question. I plan to use the Nikon for indoor shooting of art pieces–mainly small to medium sized pottery pieces with reflective surfaces (mixed with some dull matte). After looking over the specs and considering things carefully I have decided to go with the d7200. Next on my list is a good lens and lightning setup. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

    Reply

  46. Hi Matthew,

    This article is great and helped me choose the D7200 and feel good about it – until I read in the comment section that you recommended Canon 70D for someone who also wanted to shoot video. Let’s say I practice and get good at using manual focus for shooting action video – would you still recommend Nikon D7200 or does the Canon 70D have some advantages over the D7200?

    From what I can tell (and understand) the D7200 is slightly better than the Canon 70D for photography at least, but you are the expert here! I will use the camera for handheld photography and sports, and I want to start shooting video as well.

    Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it :)

    Reply

    1. Hi Izabela,

      So, the D7200’s autofocus will be quite slow compared to the Canon 70D or 80D, but otherwise, you’ll be just fine. So yes, if you plan on shooting manual focus, you’ll be in good shape. (Many video shooters like to use Canon cameras because of the availability of the Magic Lantern firmware side-car, but that’s less and less relevant these days). Yes, the D7200 is also a little better than the Canon when it comes to stills image quality.

      So, it sounds like your decision to go with the D7200 is pretty solid.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  47. Hello Matthew, thanks for highlighting and letting us know the main differences between these cameras in a more compact way. I would highly appreciate your suggestion for my case. I have a website and I sell lots of small items like jewelry and small beaded bracelets and necklaces, so sharpness and details are my most important goals. I currently use a D5200 with the regular 18-55 VRII kit that came with my camera for my pictures, but I’ve always got different results, I use a table with white (non reflective) plastic covers as a background. The thing is that lately I’m having issues with my camera, I always use it on AWB, but sometimes it gives me a warmer or even reddish tint on the white background where it should be pure white, also for some very odd reason, 100% of the time when I use the viewfinder and try my best to align with the horizon, the pictures still come out a lil tilted or (crooked). Finally, even I though I play with the aperture a lot, I simply can’t get a sharp all around image of a bracelet for example, either I get a very sharp front or middle or even bottom section, but not the entire item in focus. Do you think that upgrading cameras from my current D5200 to something like the D5500 or even the D7200 would help me solve some of these issues? Or maybe I should just change the lens, and in that case which one would you recommend for my camera and purpose? Thanks in advance, I wish I could post some example pictures to better show you what I’m referring to.

    Reply

  48. Hi Mathew

    Firstly thank you for the informative and easily understandable review of the D7200 v D5500.

    I have never had a SLR and I am considering getting the D7200 as my first SLR camera. The D7200 comes with few kit lens options including the option of 18-55mm VR + 55-300mm VR OR the 18-140mm VR. I note you have said some good things about the 18-140. I expect my primary types of photography will be landscapes and wildlife ( I don’t mind the occasional hike and plan to take my camera with me) as well as general photography I used to do with my point and shoot eg holiday photos etc. Given this, would you recommend the 18-140 OR 18-55mm VR + 55-300mm lens option? What will be the pros and con with each?

    Thank you in advance.

    Reply

  49. Hi Matt

    I just recently bought the Nikon 5500 with 2 lense kit the 18-55m and the 55-300m which I am just starting to use. I want sharper images of the kids and photos outside when they play sports. Can you please recommend what lenses to buy for sharper images? or you think I should go with the D7200. Please help lol :)

    Reply

    1. Hi Daniela,
      It depends on why your images outside aren’t sharp. There are 4 main reasons for blurry pictures (see my article here about how to tell which is which). You could be missing focus, but more likely you’re getting blur from camera or subject movement, or a combination.

      Some of these issues can be fixed by changing settings on your camera, but once you’ve done that, the only thing you can do is get a lens that lens in more light. Your 55-300 doesn’t let in a lot of light at 300mm. A 70-200 f/2.8 lens will let in 4 times more light, allowing you to get faster shutter speeds, and therefore get less blur from motion. But a lens like that costs quite a bit more. The Nikon is quite pricey, but a Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 is somewhat less. Any camera you get (D7200, D500) will have the same issues. A cheaper alternative is to buy a lens like a 50mm f/1.8 lens ($200) which lets in more than 8x as much light as the 55-300mm, but the action will have to be pretty close to you to get good shots.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  50. Background. After, literally, about 3 months of study I have decided on the D5500. It will be used primarily for landscape, street, and “information” (I take pictures of the items that I write about when writing my travel books. I’m a minimalist and back packer, every ounce counts.

    Now for lenses. Help.

    I’m going to get the 18 – 55mm. It will take care of 805 of my work and it’s small and light.

    I’m thinking of getting the 35 1.8. I know it duplicates the focal length of the kit lens. But I need a faster “normal” lens for dark churches, museums, and my family’s homes. This will take care of another 15% of work.

    I”m also considering the 85mm FX/DX lens. I don’t understand how that works. On a D5500 will the lens act as a DX lens with the 1.5 processor? I seldom use a telephoto. About 5% of my work.

    Please analyze my thinking. I know that as a minimalist I am now contradicting myself with 3 lenses, but I won’t have to carry all at the same time.

    I don’t want the 18-140 or a similar all-in-one. These are too big and heavy to carry all the time.

    Thanks for you help.

    Reply

    1. Hi Scott,

      Got it. So, the 35 f/1.8G is nice and compact and light… I can understand that choice.

      Yes, you’re right; an 85mm lens will, on your D5500, have the field of view of a 128mm lens on a full-frame sensor camera, which makes it a telephoto, but a short one. It’s a good portrait lens, and it’s good for photographing details, and anything in low light.

      That said, no matter what you think, you really will have to carry all of them all the time. You’ll try just carrying one or two, and then something will crop up and you’ll realize that you really need that other lens that you didn’t carry. And it will happen all the time. And if you really think that you can get away without all of them all the time, then I’d just skip the ones that you don’t think you’ll need all the time… they’ll be a waste of space and money, because you won’t have them when you need them. At least, that’s how it’s been for me.

      The problem is, good quality lenses are heavy. There’s just no getting around it, without changing your camera (micro 4/3 or mirrorless APS-C cameras can use smaller, lighter lenses). I’ll keep thinking about whether I can come up with a better alternative, but nothing comes to mind.

      Good luck!

      Reply

      1. Thank you Matthew.

        Advice is right on. Yeah, the 85 is short and maybe it is my recent experience with my Nikon 1 that makes look to a shorter length.

        I’m upgrading from a Nikon 1 v3, which I found to be surprisingly good — if you specify a particular focus “dot.” The 10-30 was best in the lower and middle f-stops, while the 10 – 100 was sharp up to about 80. But when it was “on” it was excellent. Why upgrade? I want to make sharper pictures, especially when I’ve exposed and composed correctly.

        Scott

        Reply

        1. Ah-ha. The problem with your 10-100mm lens was that it was a classic all-in-one zoom… like the Nikkor 18-200. They’re notoriously bad when it comes to image quality, because the zoom range is just too large for the lens to be engineered to be good at all of the focal lengths available. However, the Nikon 18-140mm is not in that class; it’s just modest enough that you’ll get great image quality throughout the zoom range. It is, however, heavier than you might like.

          I’ve just remembered that the Nikon 35mm f/1.8G does not have VR (unlike the more expensive Canon 35mm f/2 IS USM or the Tamron 35mm f/1.8 VC USD). This means that, while the 35mm lens might let in more light, it might not actually give you better results than a slower lens with stabilization. For example, your 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 has VR that’s good for about 4 stops worth of stabilization. At least, that’s what Nikon says… let’s say you’ll reliably get 3 stops.

          That means that even when you’re shooting at f/5.6 with it, you’ll be able to hand hold it with the same results as a lens with a 3-stop larger maximum aperture, which in this case, would be an f/2 (which is just 1/3rd of a stop different from the 35mm f/1.8… practically identical… but you’ll get more depth of field with the f/5.6). If we’re generous and give Nikon their full 4-stops, you’ll be getting BETTER results with it (~f/1.4) than with the f/1.8G. That is, of course, as long as you’re not shooting a moving subject. If you’re shooting moving people, then stabilization won’t help… but if you’re primarily shooting objects, architecture, and scenery, the VR does the job.

          So, if you wanted to carry a little extra weight but only one lens, you could get something like the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 OS HSM, which gives you a large aperture, image stabilization, and better image quality than the Nikon, while covering the same range. Since the maximum aperture is f/2.8 throughout the zoom range, the 3 stops of stabilization give you an equivalent of shooting at f/1.0… almost 4 times the light of an f/1.8G! And since the aperture is large, it’s only about 1 stop worse if you ARE shooting moving people.

          But, again, I understand that the lens may be too bulky and heavy for you. It does mean that you should seriously consider skipping the Nikon 35mm f/1.8, though… or opt for an alternative like the (heavier) Tamron 35mm f/1.8 that has image stabilization and will actually give you better performance than your current lens.

          Reply

          1. Thanks again. How the heck to you know all that stuff?

            Oh, do you work for Tamron? Just kidding. $600. I know, don’t cheat on the glass. Have to mull it over.

            Reply

  51. Hi Matthew pls advise what would be the best lens for D7200 for indoor and outdoor sports? (e,g Basketball) many thanks.

    Reply

    1. Hi Boiser,

      There’s no simple answer to this question, but I can give you some good options. When people shoot basketball, there are two lens types that are commonly used: a telephoto lens for shooting action that is down the court a bit, and a wide angle lens that is used for shooting action under the net.

      For both options, Sigma is now offering f/1.8 (!!!) zoom lenses, which is amazing. No other lens company offers any zoom lens that wide. They offer an 18-35mm f/1.8 ART, and (soon) a 50-150mm f/1.8 ART. These will give you a little more than twice the light that you could otherwise get with an f/2.8 lens… and light is usually the problem with indoor sports (especially high-school gyms).

      That said, most of us get by with f/2.8 lenses. I usually shoot with a 70-200 f/2.8 and a 24-70 f/2.8 (rarely a 16-28 f/2.8) with my full frame camera, so if you’re shooting with a D5500 or D7200, you’d want a wider angle lens to go along with it, like the Nikon 17-55 f/2.8, the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8, or if you want to go wider, the Tokina 11-16 or 11-20mm f/2.8.

      Reply

  52. Hi

    Thanks for this article on the comparisons between the Nikon D5500 and D7200. I am a beginner and would like to start taking wedding photos. I think I’ve decided on the Nikon D7200 combined with the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 28mm f/1.8G Lens which should give me exceptional photo images I beleive from what I’ve been reading so far. A lot of it comes down to the quality of the lens too, is that correct? I would like to take great quality bokeh photos, do you think this will be achieved with the combination above?

    Look forward to your opinion.

    Thanks Si

    Reply

    1. Hi Si,

      The D7200 is a great camera for wedding photography, although you may want to consider a full-frame model eventually (depending on your shooting style). I agree that a 28mm f/1.8 will be a great part of your kit, for taking candid shots and perhaps groups. For more typical portraits, you’ll also want an 85mm (the 85mm f/1.8G isn’t too expensive and is a great portrait lens). Many wedding photographers (myself included) like to use a 70-200 f/2.8 for portraits and documentary shots, but that’s a matter of personal preference. The longer the telephoto lens, the easier it will be to get nice, smooth bokeh… wide angle lenses like the 28mm will not be as easy, but it will help if you’re shooting wide open and the subject is relatively close to the camera.

      – Matthew

      Reply

    2. Hi Matthew,

      I am looking for Nikon D5500 or D7200. Can you please advise the best option out of the below to take sharper pictures of kids/toddlers and daily lifestyle pictures :-
      1. Nikon D5500 with 18-65 mm lens
      2. Nikon D7200 with 18-105mm kit lens or 18-65mm lens
      3. Nikon D5500 with 18-105mm kit lens

      I am also planning to buy a good prime lens to get good pictures in dim light.

      Reply

      1. Hi Meg,

        I’d go with the Nikon D5500 and either the 18-105 kit or, better yet, the 18-140mm kit, plus the prime lens. For typical, day to day pictures, even good action pictures of kids, the D5500 will give you excellent image quality and autofocus, and good low-light performance… and the minor differences that the D7200 will give you will likely not be useful.

        If you are thinking about a 35mm prime and have a little extra room in your budget, you might consider the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8; it will give you all of the low-light ability of an f/1.8 prime, plus the flexibility of a zoom, all with amazing image quality that rivals any prime on the market.

        Reply

  53. Hi Matthew,

    I really appreciate the article! Especially, because I have been comparing cameras for the past 3 weeks now and I just cannot decide! I’ve been going around with my classic D3000 for many years now and have decided that I want to go to a more semi-pro camera. My friend who owns a D7000 told me to check out the new D7200, when I did I also checked out the D5500 and both of them seem to be amazing.

    I generally use my cameras outdoors when I travel. When I visit my parents in the UK, I love taking landscape shots, but also macros from all the nature around there. DxOmark shows that both cameras perform extremely well, but I just cannot decide what combination (camera+lens) to choose for my upgrade to semi-pro.

    Do you have any suggestions?

    Cheers,

    Peter

    Reply

    1. Hi Peter,

      My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses that you can afford. The lenses are really what’s going to make a difference in your photography, especially with modern sensors.

      So, normally I’d tell you to get the D5500 and some good lenses. It sounds like a good match for your needs, except… you mentioned macros. For macro photography, setting the micro-focus adjustment for a macro lens in your camera CAN be important (though sometimes you’ll have a good match to begin with and it won’t be necessary). If your lens consistently front focuses or back focuses for macro work, you can fix that with micro adjustments in camera, with the D7200/D7100. But not the D5500.

      If you want a good, all-around shooting lens, the kit 18-140mm is actually quite good, and it’s convenient for daily use (but don’t get an 18-200 or 18-300 or longer zoom). If you want a true macro lens, there are so many good ones on the market that it’s hard to choose a single one to recommend. The Nikon 60mm Macro is good and not too expensive, and the 105mm macro is even better (but costs more). Tamron just announced a new 90mm Macro that should be excellent (like their older ones).

      Do you like ultra-wide angle lenses? Do you tend to shoot telephotos? If I can narrow it down a bit, I might be able to offer better suggestions :-)

      Reply

      1. I never used an ultra-wide on my D3000 before, but it’s definitely a lens I’m considering to purchase in the future as the pictures you can take with it are simply amazing! Telephotos I’m less focussed on. I’m not such a wild-life shooter or so, therefore, I believe that the 140mm would suffice already.

        Reply

        1. If you decide that an ultra-wide would suit your shooting style, then there are a couple of lenses that I love, in that range. One is the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. It’s nice and sharp across the entire frame, throughout the zoom range, and it has an f/2.8 aperture available the whole time, so if you’re shooting indoors or in low light, it’s a huge advantage over more typical f/4 and smaller apertures. There’s also a newer 11-20mm f/2.8, but I haven’t tested it yet, so I can’t give you any advice there, but by everything I’ve read, it’s just as good.

          If you’d prefer a slightly better zoom range, the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 goes much wider, and the image quality remains very, very good (at the expense of a smaller aperture). Right now, it happens to be really cheap, too… compared to how much it cost just a couple of years ago.

          Reply

          1. The prices are quite okay for my budget, so that’s a plus! I’m just wondering what your thoughts are on the native ISO differences between the D7100 and the D7200. I’m leaning more towards those cameras as they seem to suit my style of lenses more, however, besides the sport shots does it actually add that much more?

            Reply

            1. Hi Peter,
              The Native ISO differences are minimal, although if you’re pushing the D7100’s images up from more than 3 stops or so, you may get a little bit of banding or noise that you wouldn’t get with the D7200, just because of the sensor difference (rather than the ISO itself). If you’re exposing correctly, the differences will be minimal. Otherwise, there aren’t any major differences other than the ones mentioned above.

              Reply

  54. Hello Matthew,

    Thanks for all the information in your review and the comments, it already helped me a lot. I’m looking to upgrade from my Nikon P510 to a DSLR or a mirrorless camera. I’ve already narrowed it down to the following options:

    DSLR: Nikon D7200 or Nikon D5500 with Nikkor 18-140mm
    Mirrorless: Fujifilm X-T1 with Fujinon XF 18-135mm

    In the past I mainly did nature photography (landscape, incl. sunrise and sunset, and wildlife) and familypics, but I’m also interested in nightscape and time lapse. I take most photos while traveling.

    Which of the aforementioned cameras would you recommend me and are there other lenses that you would recommend me with regard to my interests (and taking into account that I consider myself to be a starting amateur)?

    Hope you can help me a bit further and many thanks in advance for your reaction!

    Kind regards,

    Jan

    Reply

    1. Hi Jan,

      First of all, it sounds like the D5500 would be a great choice for you; the D7200 is also great, but its benefits over the D5500 would probably go unused, unless you also shoot a lot of sports or fast action photos. So, I’d tell you to go for the D5500, except…

      I really like the Fuji X-T1, too. That makes this a really tough choice. I love how compact it is, I love the controls, and the image quality is great for a 16 megapixel camera. The X-T1 also has the advantage of being water-resistant, and since it’s mirrorless, it can shoot lots of fast action shots (though I’m not sure that the autofocus is as good as something like the D7200).

      Let be say this: these days, image quality is so good from all of the major cameras that there’s no practical difference in what camera you use for 95% of the time. Yes, some sensors have more dynamic range, some have more megapixels, some have more color depth, etc, but the fact is that we’ve had way more than we need of all of that stuff for a long time now. Those differences are mostly academic.

      In the end, there are a couple of things that are important.

      1) How you, personally, like the feel and layout of a camera. Being comfortable with a camera is very important. It has to be comfortable for you to hold and carry. The Fuji has an electronic viewfinder, and some people hate those (they can be a little laggy). All of that is personal, and I can’t help you much there.

      2) The camera body is part of a camera system. The system includes lenses, flashes, grips, transmitters, radio-triggers, software, etc. Nikon is a much bigger company, so there are more lenses available and more accessories available. You have to decide whether you’re likely to use the ones that aren’t available for Fuji. If you were a wildlife photographer, for example, and needed to use a 600mm f/4 supertelephoto lens, then Fuji would be a bad choice… those kinds of lenses are not available. Nikon’s flash system is also much more sophisticated than Fuji’s.

      As a photographer, I know what my needs are and I know what I like, so I know that I could choose (and probably would) the X-T1 camera and a selection of lenses and I’d be perfectly happy… but I don’t know if the same will be true for you. The Nikon is probably the safer bet.

      So, I’ll have to leave it with this:

      If you decide to get the D5500, I’d get the 18-140mm lens with it (excellent lens for everyday shooting), along with the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens (which is excellent for landscapes, especially those in low-light… it lets in lots of light) or similar f/1.8 prime lenses in that range. The new Tamron 35mm f/1.8 VC USD is a good option, if you prefer a prime lens, since it has image stabilization. If you’re interested in portraiture, I’d also go with a Nikon 85mm f/1.8 or the new Tamron 85mm f/1.8 VC (both excellent… the Tamron will be more expensive but has image stabilization), and they’ll give you shallow depth of field.

      If you decide to get the Fuji, I’d get it with the 18-135, as you suggest. Since the best Fuji lenses are primes, I’d spend some time shooting with the 18-135 and see what focal lengths you use the most, and then choose larger aperture primes on that basis, rather than trying to guess what you’ll want in advance.

      Good luck!

      Reply

  55. Hi Matthew,

    I have Nikon D5100 with standard 18-55 mm lens. Recently I have upgraded the lens to 18-140 mm and I am quite happy with the results.

    In case of D5100 I sometimes don’t like the video performance and at times feel shortage of cross focal points.
    I would like to know whether an upgrade of the camera body from D5100 to D5500 also worth it ?

    Reply

    1. Hi Amit,

      What is it about the video performance that you don’t like with the D5100? Autofocus is going to be a problem with any Nikon camera; that’s one of the places where Canon’s Dual-Pixel CMOS technology really makes a big improvement, but other video issues may be a matter of changing the settings. Or maybe not.

      If you find that your camera is hunting for focus frequently, then it’s possible that the additional cross-type AF points in the D5500 would make a difference, although even the D5500 only has 9, if I’m not mistaken. It will be a big improvement over 1, though. Nikon had never been particularly strong on cross-type points until they announced the D500, which is a new direction for them. In any case, I’d upgrade to the D5300 or D5500 for the sensor alone; great image quality and dynamic range.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  56. As an amateur photographer, I have used several kind of compact & DSLR cameras (Sony DSC-HX60V, Nikon D60, Canon EOS 500D e.t.c) and would like to get myself now any of Nikon D5500, D7100 or D7200.

    Pretty difficult to decide so I would like to know people’s opinion. Which one of these cameras is the one to get when an amateur photographer is looking for a camera for a long run that is also value for money?
    Price difference between D5500 and D7100 is around 200 euros here.

    Reply

    1. This is really a tough choice, and it really depends on what you like to shoot. My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford.

      If you’re not going to be doing a lot of sports and action photography, I’d lean towards the D7100. Although it’s great for capturing action, the buffer is small enough to be an annoyance… so it’s worth going for the D7200 or D500 if you need to shoot a lot of action. Otherwise, it’s a perfect camera in just about every way, and it’s really pretty inexpensive at this point. The D5500 would only be my choice if I really needed something light weight.

      Reply

  57. Thank you for all your effort in writing this review and answering everyone’s comments so well. I am also deciding between the 5500 and the 7200. Your advice for spending the extra money on the camera lens rather than the camera feels like a better idea. This will be my first DSLR, and I plan to pursue a lot with it, primarily shooting sunsets/sunrises, landscape and night photos. My questions for you are what lenses are best and worth purchasing for these kinds of photos? If the 5500 does not have an autofocus motor, does that limit what other lenses may be compatible with that model as well? There are good bundle deals I have found for both cameras, which each include the 18-55mm VR II and the AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-300mm VR Lens. Do you know if there would be a better lens for such landscape photography?

    Reply

    1. Hi Cody,
      As long as you’re buying modern lenses, the lack of AF motor in the D5500 won’t make much difference. I have 4 or 5 lenses from back in the 1990s, when autofocus was still pretty new, and Nikon hadn’t developed in-lens motors yet… but any of the lenses that have been made in the past 10 years or so have have a focusing motor built in. Older lenses really aren’t designed for the high-resolution sensors that we use today anyway.

      Nikon’s 18-55 and 18-140 are both good lenses; they’ll give you very strong image quality, especially if you shoot from a tripod and stop the lens down to f/8 or so. I’m not as familiar with the 55-300.

      There are many lenses that are better, but they’re expensive. They’ll hold their value, but it’s a significant investment. Any of Nikon’s prime f/1.4 lenses would be great… as would their f/2.8 zoom lenses. Similarly, any of Sigma’s ART series lenses would be excellent… especially the 18-35mm f/1.8 ART.

      Reply

  58. Thank you for your excelent comparison of this two cameras. I have still my old D90 and use sometimes Olympus PEN. I think touch and movable screen is a good tool but ad the end other fitures are more imported for me. I tested D5500 and D7200 and in will go for D7200. Fits better to more hand, is more robust if you are outside, better battery system, two sim card slots, faster and better AF… The size and the weight is relative (you always have to consider the lens and combination). If i need something small i use my Olympus, if i would shoot really good pictures and want work manual i will use the D7200… What do you think?

    Reply

  59. I was looking to upgrade from a Fuji HS50EXR super-zoom, wanted to get better quality pictures and I’ve always wanted to have the DSLR experience and was considering both the D5500 and D7200. But when I found the 5500 on sale (brand new) for $499 (with the 18-55 kit lens) I couldn’t pass it up. Comparing the D5500 to the bridge camera was like night and day, the Nikon shoots absolutely beautiful and highly detailed pictures. I’m just starting to learn some of the basics of DSLR photography, and I’m sure the D5500 will serve me well for a long long time.

    My question is about lenses. I picked up a 55-200 VR II lens at a decent price. I’m pretty happy with the kit lens and the 55-200. I’m currently waiting to receive the 35mm 1.8 prime lens (a “must have” from everything I’ve read). In your opinion is it better to stick with the 18-55 and the 55-200 as opposed to getting a single 18-200 lens? I like the idea of not field swapping the lenses but not at the cost of image quality. Is there really a difference?

    Anyway, thanks for the great review!

    Reply

    1. Hi Eric,

      Yes, it is much better to stick with the 18-55 and 55-200, rather than an 18-200. The image quality of an 18-200 is significantly worse; I do own one, but I don’t recommend them or anyone… especially owners of the D5500/D7200 which have such immensely high resolution. They’ll capture the optical flaws in that lens very easily.

      On the other hand, the optical quality of the 18-140 VR is significantly better than the 18-200… good enough that if you need a lens for convenience, it’s worth it, despite the loss of zoom range.
      – Matthew

      Reply

  60. What does “micro adjustments” for focussing mean? Is this a common feature on cameras? I’ve never heard it before.

    How does it work on the 7200? I talked to a sales person today and he hadn’t a clue of what I was asking. But then neither did I. :-)

    Thank you.

    Reply

    1. Hi Scott,

      In some cases, a particular lens will not be adjusted absolutely perfectly for a camera’s autofocus system, and it will consistently focus slightly behind or in front of the subject. AF Micro-Adjustment allows you to adjust the focusing point for that lens so that it’s spot on (you do this in a sub-menu on the rear LCD… it’s not something that most people mess with). Then you save the adjusted profile for that lens, and it will be recognized and used each time that you use the lens in the future.

      Most lenses don’t focus 100% perfectly at all distances, but for most people, the amount that the focus is off in inconsequential. It’s more of a problem when you use large aperture prime lenses, close up. Even then, most lenses are fine… but sometimes, they’re worth adjusting slightly. Some people think that it’s very important… though I tend to think that some people just blame their cameras and lenses for their own focusing problems. :-)
      – Matthew

      Reply

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