Nikon D5300 vs D7100
Camera Comparisons
·8 min read

Nikon D5300 vs D7100 : Which Should You Buy?

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Nikon’s D5300, the latest update to their already class-leading entry/mid-level SLR, not only widens the gap between Nikon and their Canon competitors, it makes the choice to spend a little more money on the Nikon D7100 even harder. Below, I’ll briefly explain what has been added to (and what has been taken away from) the D5200 to derive the D5300, but I’ll primarily focus on the differences that remain between the D5300 and the D7100. Most entry and mid-level photographers will be perfectly happy with the D5300, but some types of photographers will need to consider the additional capabilities of the Nikon D7100.

NOTE: The D5300 has now been superseded by the almost identical D5500 (which lacks GPS, but adds a touch screen). Read the updated comparison of the D5500 vs D7100 here.

New In the D5300

If you’re deciding between this and the D5200, these are the things that are new in the D5300:

  • the Optical Low-Pass filter has been removed from the sensor for (potentially) sharper, higher resolution images
  • built-in Wi-Fi and GPS have been added
  • the processor has been upgraded to an Expeed 4
  • the top of the ISO scale has been increased by a stop, to 12800 / +25600
  • the ability to shoot 60 progressive frames per second at 1080p resolution
  • its a few milometers shorter and narrower, and about 50 grams lighter
  • the rear LCD is now a larger 3.2″ 1,037,000 pixel model

Nikon D5300 vs D7100: What’s the Difference?

To begin with, we can take a look at the most significant specs for the D5300 and the D7100.

Nikon D5300Nikon D5200Nikon D7100
Price (body)
$597$696 $797
Price (with 18-140mm kit lens)$897$1096$1097
Body MaterialSereebo, (carbon fiber reenforced plastic) body-chassis Plastic (separate body and chassis)Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic
Sensor Resolution24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)		24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)		24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)
Anti-Aliasing Filter
(Reduces sharpness, prevents moire)		NOYESNO
ISO Range100-12800
+25600		100-6400
+12800
+25600		100-6400
+12800
+25600
Total AF Points393951
Cross-Type AF Points9915
AF Motor In Body
(For Using Older AF Lenses)		NONOYES
AF Light Level Range-1 to +19 EV-1 to +19 EV-2 to +19 EV
Autofocus Fine Tuning
Adjustments		NONOYES
Shutter Speed Range1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Expected Shutter Life100,000 Shots100,000 Shots150,000 Shots
Max Frame Rate5 fps5 fps6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
Max RAW Burst
(buffer size)		6 shots, compressed 14-bit8 shots, compressed 14-bit7 shots lossless 12-bit
6 shots lossless 14-bit
Max JPG Burst
(fine, Large)		100*

*this number is so much higher than that provided for the D5200 and D7100, it may be a mistake		35 33
Flash Sync Speed1/200th sec.1/200th sec.1/250th sec.
(1/320th* sec, or slower,)
Wireless Flash
(Built-in Commander)		NONOYES
Auto FP Flash Mode
(High Speed Sync)		NONOYES
Media Slots1 SD / SDHC / SDXC1 SD / SDHC / SDXC2 SD / SDHC / SDXC
LCD Size3.2"
1,036,800 pixels		3.0"
921,000 pixels		3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
LCD ArticulatedYesYesNo
Body Weight480g (no battery)
530g (with battery)		505g (no battery)
555 g (with battery)		675 (no battery)
Battery Lifenot provided500 shots
CIPA Standards		950 shots
CIPA Standards
Viewfinder Coverage95% Frame
.82x Magnification		95% Frame
.78x Magnification		100% Frame
.94x Magnification
Video CodecMPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
Video Resolutions1920 x 1080 (60p, 60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)		1920 x 1080 (60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)		1920 x 1080 (60i*, 50i*, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)

*only in 1.3x crop mode
Video Length Limit29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.
Headphone JackNoNoYes
Internal MicStereoStereoStereo

Build Quality

Perhaps the most obvious difference between the D7100 and the D5300 is in their construction. The D5300 body is significantly smaller and lighter, with a body made entirely of polycarbonate, while the D7100 is heavier and built for durability, with a metal (magnesium alloy) back and top. Since the D5300 also uses a smaller battery, the carry-around weight of the D7100 is about 30% more than the D5300.

Whether this is an advantage or disadvantage depends on your photographic needs; some photographers (especially those with larger hands) prefer a larger camera with some ‘heft’ to it, while others prefer something more lightweight and easy to carry around, especially travelers and hikers. Needless to say, those who work in harsh conditions will also prefer the D7100’s weather sealing and heavier-duty construction, as a matter of practicality.

The Sensors : Exactly the Same

The success of the D800e may have led directly to Nikon’s decision to produce an APS-C camera without an optical low-pass/anti-aliasing (OLP/AA) filter, but whatever led to the fact, the D7100’s sensor is naked. Before the D800e, all of the major SLRs produced their sensors with an AA filter: essentially an extra layer in front of the sensor that blurs the image slightly, in order to reduce the jagged edges and moire 1 The Wikipedia article on moire patterns is very helpful, if you’re unfamiliar with the term. that have traditionally been associated with digital capture. With modern improvements in image processing software, though, Nikon was confident that the moire and jaggies could be avoided without the AA filter, so they opted to remove it and allow the cameras to capture finer image detail.

Now, with the success of the D7100, Nikon has also decided to remove the AA filter from the D5300’s sensor. Though this does provide the potential to for the camera to produce sharper images, don’t expect too much.

Comparisons of images produced by the D800 (AA Filter) and D800e (no AA Filter) have shown that the principle works; there are subtle improvements in fine detail in the D800e’s images. However, we should not expect such significant improvements in the D7100’s images. The receptors on the 24 megapixel sensor of the D7100 are already much, much smaller than those of the D800e. In fact, the D7100 and D5300 fit about 56% more pixels into the same sensor area than the D800e2 Further details and measurements can be found on DigicamDB. .

Why does that matter? Even with the much larger receptors of the D800, lens resolution has become a serious bottle-neck for image quality3 See this DxO Mark article for further details. . The dramatically higher pixel density of Nikon’s 24 megapixel sensors will tax lens resolution even more, meaning that the D7100’s images won’t get much sharper unless lenses get sharper first.

So, using the best quality lenses at their optimal aperture settings, photographers using a properly stabilized camera might see slight improvements in the sharpness in the center of their images, and in the best circumstances, also towards the corners. For most snapshots, though, there would be no difference between this and the D5200’s sensor.

Auto Focus Systems

Unlike most entry and mid-level SLRs, the Nikon D5300 has a very sophisticated autofocus system. While cameras like the Canon T4i and 60D have 9 autofocus points, the D5300 has 39, though only 9 of them are cross-type 4 If you don’t know why cross-type points are so important, I recommend watching the first half of our Photography Notes video . As you can see from the chart above, this autofocus system, which also incorporates color information, has been adopted from the Nikon D7000.

The D7100, however, shares the same AF system with the flagship Nikon D4 and the D800: 51 AF points, including 15 cross-type… the best system available in a Nikon body.

For all but the most dedicated action photographers, the system in the D5300 (and D7000) will be more than sufficient, even if you’re buying a camera primarily for shooting sports. If your paycheck, however, is going to depend on your focusing system, the extra several hundred dollars will be well spent on the D7100.

Nikon D5300 and D7100, backs

Speed

When it comes to speed, the differences between the D5300 and D7100 are more modest that you might expect. The D7100 does have a top shutter speed that is one full f-stop faster than the D5300’s (ie, 1/8000th vs 1/4000th). When it comes to shooting bursts of photos, though, the D7100 only provides an additional frame per second over the D5300’s 5 fps (unless you’re shooting in 1.3x crop mode, in which case it will give up an additional frame per second).

More importantly, though, the under-sized buffer in the D7100 does not allow longer bursts than the D5300; in fact, the D5300 comes out dead even. The D7100 and D5300 can both only shoot 6 14-bit RAW shots before the buffer is full (the D5200 could manage 8). Compare this to the 15 RAW shots allowed by a Canon 60D or 25 in a 7D5 with the most recent firmware upgrade. Originally, the 7D also shot about 15 RAW frames before filling the buffer , and it will be clear that neither Nikon is probably ideal for photographers who rely on the machine-gun method of action photography.

That said, shooting JPG changes things dramatically. The D7100 can shoot bursts of at least 33 frames (at 6 fps) while the D5300 may be able to shoot 100 or more frames (at 5fps).

Nikon D7100 and D5300, overhead view

The D5300’s Downfall

Flash. With the popularity of “Strobist” techniques over the past several years, flash photography has become increasingly important to amateur and semi-pro photographers, and this is where the D5300 falls short: it lacks high-speed-sync (Auto FP Flash, henceforth AFP) and external flash control with the built-in flash. External flash control may not be a big deal; many of us prefer to use radio-units instead… though the built-in IR system can be very useful with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS).

The lack of AFP, however, is a serious problem. Consider this situation: you’re shooting a portrait outdoors during the day, and you want to use a large aperture to blur the background… perhaps f/2 or f/1.4 . This will push your shutter speed beyond 1/1000ths of a second, much higher than the camera’s 1/200th sec. maximum sync speed. So, if you want to use a flash to soften the shadows or create a catch-light in the eyes of your subject, forget it: the flash will not sync. The same is true if you want to use flash for sports and a high shutter speed, and while you can purchase external command modules or radio transmitters for off-camera-flashes, there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP. You’d need to buy the D7100 instead.

All the Little Things

There are a few other assorted differences that deserve mention here, but they’re mostly the same differences that we saw between the D5100 and D7000. First, the D5300 does not have an autofocus motor built into the camera body, so it will not be compatible with the full range of (old school) Nikon lenses, while the D7100 does posses the motor. And speaking of “focus”, the D7100 is capable of micro adjustments to correct for front or back-focus problems on lenses, while the D5300 is not.

As should be obvious from the images above, the D5300 has an articulated LCD screen, which some people find helpful for ground-level shots and video but others find a breakage hazard or amateurish.

Finally, if you are interested in video, the D7100 has been given a headphone jack for monitoring audio while you shoot. The jack is absent in the D5300 (and D7000).

Which to Buy?

The Nikon D5300 is a great camera, and I’d recommend it for the vast majority of amateur photographers with the exception of those who need superior flash capabilities.

To summarize, you should buy the D5300 if you:

  • want a great, all-around camera
  • shoot primarily with natural light or studio strobes
  • have smaller hands, or need the lightest body while maintaining high performance
  • need an articulated LCD screen for video or photos
  • want to shoot video at 1080/60p

Buy the D7100 if you:

  • are hard on your equipment and need a more durable body
  • use flash for action or fill and need high-speed sync
  • use Nikon’s CLS and want to use the built-in command module
  • shoot macro (or other focus critical work) and need to make micro adjustments to your lenses
  • shoot a lot of video and want a simple headphone jack on your camera

For the sake of simplicity I’ve tried to focus on only the differences that, in my experience, will actually be important. There are, of course, numerous differences between the two cameras, though, and some features may be more important to particular photographers.
If you think that I’ve left out something important, please feel free to let me know.

Please Comment!

If you have additional questions or comments, please let me know, below. I’ll do what I can to answer questions and clear up any confusion.

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Matthew Gore
Editor-in-Chief
Matthew Gore is the Editor-in-Chief and Administrator of Light & Matter Media.
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387 Comments

  1. This is a great article – Thank you!. I am truly an amateur hobbyist and have enjoyed shooting with my D5300 for many years. Its been around the world with me to Japan, Ireland, Iceland and I have gotten some great shots. I try to stay away from “Auto” mode so I can learn more about the capabilities of the camera. While scenery and portraits are generally pretty good, I have been asked recently to shoot my daughters high school volleyball tournament. Shooting high action sporting events has been a challenge. I have an “older” VR lens, 80-200mm which is my primary. I cannot get the D5300 to shoot in burst mode (I’ll call my local shop to ask why), but I’m told its a deficieny of the camera, not hte lens. I also cant get the D5300 to get larger than f3.5. My manual setup is af-c, iso set at 6400 (as opposed to auto iso), f3.5, and I shoot vertically. Im finding timing to be most important to get the “ball in hand” shots. Another photographer next to me was shooting in burst, his camera sounded like a rapid fire machine gun ripping off bursts of 3 to 5 snaps, where as mine does the normal click-click-click.. By the time my D5300 takes two snaps, his camera rips 5 snaps. I did not see or ask what his camera was. I guess I cant get my camera to do that. My question is reading your article, it sounds like I probably should go with the D7100 due to the increased AF points and the ability to have a higher rate of frames. Am I understanding correctly? Any other tips to help this “newbie” with this project? Your insight and advice is most appreciated!

    Reply

    1. Hi Randall,

      Your D5300 should be able to shoot at about 5 frames per second, which is nice and fast. You do need to make sure that the camera is in the correct “drive” mode (Continuous High ), and there are a lot of things that can slow it down (slow SD card, shooting RAW + JPG, slow shutter speeds, etc). It’s also possible that there’s a communication problem with your lens that is slowing things down.

      Mirrorless cameras will give you much faster frame rates, in general… and I believe that Nikon will be announcing their first APS-C mirrorless camera within the next week, so you might want to consider it (cameras like the Sony a6000 series all shoot 10 fps, also).

      The Nikon D7100 (and newer cameras) will give you only a very modest increase in frame rate. The D7100 will give you six frames per second rather than five; it’s not the kind of difference you’ll really notice. Before you move on to a new camera, you should make sure that your current camera is performing as it should. However… a single well-timed photo is generally better than a dozen machine-gun shots.

      But yes, you’re understanding everything correctly… the D7100 will have better focus and slightly better frame rate, and it will feel more responsive when you press the shutter button. Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions :-)

      Reply

  2. Hi Matthew- what an amazing thread to read for someone who is trying to choose between a Nikon D7100 or D5300!! I need to take raw files of my paintings on a wall….using a tripod and tungsten lights, a Circular polarizer and gels to eliminate glare. I prefer to operate manual focus so I can magnify a section in live view and get it really sharp in focus. I dont need the camera for too much other than that though I will use it sometimes to make a video of public talks. the main thing is accurate reproductions of my work.I am thinking to use a prime lens Nikkor Lens AF 50mm f/1.8D in manual mode with the D5300..I understand that I wont be able to use it in Autofocus mode, so maybe the D7100 will be better suited to the lens …would there be any compromise in image quality? Many thanks for your attention!

    Reply

    1. Hi Gwen,

      Between the D7100 and D5300, there will be no significant difference in image quality as long as your images are exposed somewhere in the broad range of correctly (within one or two full full f-stops).

      I actually just sold my own Nikkor 50 f/1.4D last winter (not exactly the same, of course) and it was an awesome lens… but not quite up to modern standards for resolution. You might consider the modern lens instead, although if you shoot at f/5.6 (which should give you the highest resolution with that lens and body), there probably won’t be a lot of difference.

      So, that’s all just to say… get the D7100 if you want to use the lens with autofocus. My general rule, as I’m sure you’ve seen, is to buy the least expensive camera body that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses that you can afford… so if buying the less expensive body means you can get a better lens, do that :-)

      I have done a limited amount of copy work with paintings, though I’ve done some. It’s the kind of thing that is easy to do poorly, hard to do well, particularly when it comes to getting the correct colors. Probably the easiest way to get correct colors is to use a color checker and create a custom RAW profile (it’s easy with the color checker passport. You should check out their videos on the process, if you’re not familiar with it).

      A polarizer may help, depending on your medium (won’t work as well with highlights on glossy oils, for example), but you won’t need gels unless you’re using a mix of flash and tungsten lights. If you run into any issues along the way, feel free to come back and let me know… I may be able to offer some advice :-)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  3. Hi Matthew. I am trying to decide what to get my father-in-law as a replacement for his Nikon D3100. This camera is knackered and getting near it’s properly working cycle I think. He still uses it, nearly on a daily basis (but just as an enthousiast). He has the 18-55 and the 55-200 (and a couple of old manual lenses, but I don’t think he uses them much).

    Since he’s helping me remodeling my house, I want to replace the D3100 for him. I am torn between two choices:

    D7100
    D5300

    Both will probably also get a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G (or D in case of the D7100), to get him started with a better lens.

    Are both of these still good options these days? Or is there anything else you would suggest for his situation?

    Thanks in advance!

    Peter

    Reply

    1. Hi Peter,
      These are still good cameras, yes, but there are some good reason to move up to the D7200 instead of the D7100 (basically, a larger buffer for shooting action, and wi-fi / NFC). The D5300 is still a great option, and although it doens’t have a touch screen like the D5500, it does have built-in GPS, which was dropped in the D5500. Any of these cameras would be a wonderful step up from a D3100.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  4. Hi Matthew,
    I have read everything and its sad that it doesn’t support high speed sync flash. If i buy Godox X1t-N trigger and Godox AD200 will it still work high speed or it will not support. I’m about to worried but confused so i want to confirm before buying.
    Thanks in advance.

    Reply

    1. The D5300/D5500/D5600 will not support high speed sync, even when using flash equipment that supports it. The D7100 will support high speed sync with HSS equipment.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  5. Hi Matthew, I own a D7100 as per your suggestion and now I am confused to buy which portrait lens to buy out of below.

    50mm F/1.8G
    85mm F/1.8G

    I tested 50mm and I am okay with the performance.. but I heard great things about 85mm one. Could you please let me know which is best for D7100. Thanks!

    Reply

      1. I think you suggested 85mm earlier too.. hence I wanted to know the advantages of this lens over a 50mm one

        Reply

    2. Hi Sukesh,

      The 85mm focal length is a very traditional, popular size for portraits… the focal length is very flattering to most people’s faces (without making their noses look too big, as can happen with shorter lengths) and they’re generally going to give you better background-blur than you’d get with a 50mm lens. Both are good portrait lenses on an APS-C camera, so it’s really just a matter of personal preference, but I think that portraits shot with the 85mm just look better and more professional (just a matter of taste). Maybe it’s because it’s just enough of a telephoto to look different from what we see with our eyes, so it’s a different perspective, while a 50mm is very similar to what we see with the naked eye. Either way, the trick is to get a good quality lens… and Nikon’s 85mm lenses probably have better optics than the 50mm. I’m a big fan of the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 ART at that focal length.

      Good luck!
      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks Matthew. I’m planning to buy a flash for Nikon D7100 to use for my lens 50mm 1.8g and I will buy 85mm 1.8g this thanksgiving. I would like to know a good and economic flash that works well with my current body and lens. Please advise. Thanks!

        Reply

          1. Thank you so much Matthew for your response . Does the flash suggested by you does everything same as sb-700? Didn’t play with any of the flashes yet and hence want to check if guided lights/remote capabilities all are covered with this flash. Thanks!

            Reply

            1. Yes, it does. In fact, I believe that the cheaper flash is more powerful than the Nikon. It is compatible with Nikon’s wireless flash system (IR/pre-flash triggered), but you can also use radio flash triggers.

              Reply

              2. Hi Mathhew! you know what ? you are the reason I got a first good camera in the first place. I bought D7100 Nikon 6 years ago based on your recommendation and I was very happy with it. I bought 50mm 1.8 prime lens and 85mm 1.8 prime lens and clicked thousands of photographs seamlessly. I love my 85mm 1.8 lens! the only problem now is with the indoor party photographs and also the fall photographs that I took this year. wide angle capabilities are truly missing and I want to enhance my gear. I did some analysis and liked D850 full frame camera as there will be no crop factor and 50mm/85mm will be a bit okay for indoors. But as D850 is very expensive and everything is changing to mirrorless, I am thinking to wait a couple of years to get a good mirrorless. I am actually very confused and another reason is I don’t want to invest so much until I am very comfortable with the current gear! And I don’t want to go mirrorless at this point as I need to buy both camera and the lenses from scratch. I did some research and it comes down to 5 options!

                1. D850 full frame camera – 2500$ (Please let me know if there are any other cameras that I should think of – both expensive and budget ones)
                2. ultra wide angle prime lens – 20mm 1.8G ED – 800$ (thinking to use it in future even when I upgrade to full frame, please confirm if this lens works with full frame). With crop factor, this comes to 30mm and I want to take indoor photographs and fall photographs where I need little bit wide angle.
                3. 28mm 1.8 G ED lens – 630$ . with crop factor this will be 42mm. Please confirm if this works with full frame camera if I upgrade in future.
                4. 35mm 1.8G ED – 530$ – with crop factor this will be 52mm in D7100. Please confirm if this works with full frame if I upgrade in future.
                5. 24-70mm 2.8 – 1450$ – expensive lens. But want to use it now and also in future. In D7100, it will act as 36 to 105mm. There are some friends who told 50mm 1.8G and 85mm 1.8G are better lenses than 24-70mm and they get great photos with prime lenses only. and there are other friends who told 24-70mm optics are pretty good and it beats the prime lenses as well and you will be very comfortable as it is an all round lens and you don’t need to change the lens every time.

                if mirrorless , is the way to go , can I settle for ultra wide lens to save the bucks ? or spend little high to get a 24-70mm lens for every occasion ? Or spend a little high and get a full frame as it has other advantages ?

                Could you please guide me. Thank you so much for your help Mathhew!

              3. Hi Sukhesh, Good to see you back :-)

                First, a couple of general comments. I agree that the world is moving towards mirrorless cameras; Nikon and Canon will not be making new DSLRs or DSLR lenses, so buying a new DSLR is climbing aboard a sinking ship. Of course, the D850 will still help you make some amazing photos, but if you don’t expect it to be your last camera purchase ever, you’d just be delaying the process of switching to mirrorless.

                The nice thing is, Nikon’s F-mount lenses work really well with the Z-series cameras and the Nikon FTZ adapter, so you can get a Z body now and use your old lenses.

                Since Nikon just announced the Z7II, the original Z7’s price is going to be dropping… and it’s something like a mirrorless equivalent to the D850. With the current price drop, it’s also around $2500.

                But if you just want to get started with mirrorless, the Z5 only costs about half that much ($1300), and the Z50 is even less (around $850).

                —

                The 20mm f/1.8 ED, 28mm f/1.8 ED, 35mm f/1.8, and of course the 24-70 f/2.8 are all full-frame compatible. No problem there.

                The 24-70 (and a lot of high-end zoom lenses) are nearly indistinguishable from prime lenses in terms of resolution when they’re at their best and very close when they’re not. They do tend to have a little more distortion, but that’s easily correctable in post (or even in camera) these days. I use zoom lenses for most of my work, and would not hesitate to recommend them unless you’re a portrait specialist and really need the extra large apertures (f/1.8+) to give you more background blur.

                Even then, zoom lenses like the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 are excellent options… many people say that this Sigma lens is as good as having a collection of prime lenses from 18-35mm (probably overstating it a little bit, but it’s really good).

                So. Mirrorless probably IS the way to go, but WHEN is up to you. When the time comes, you might also consider Sony (A7RIII or A7RIV, or a less expensive model). They have the advantage of a lot more lenses being available from Sony, plus lenses from Sigma, Tamron, Zeiss, and others… if you want to use native lenses (no adapter).

                For now, you might want to think about getting a Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 for your current camera to cover your low-light wide angle needs, and when you’re comfortable with all your gear and have decided on a mirrorless full-frame, high-quality lenses usually retrain their retail value well. If you get the 20mm, it will work with a full frame, but you’ll probably end up selling it, too… since it would require an adapter to work with a mirrorless camera.

                Good luck!

              4. Thanks for your time and reply Matthew!

                I took time to go through, to find deals to respond back for further suggestions :)

                when you said Nikon F mount lenses work well with the Z cameras, are they really good that we don’t need to upgrade to Z lenses at some point of time except to reduce weight? I have seen some reviews and they mentioned we might get a vignette with F mount lenses. I haven’t tried and wasn’t really sure. Hence wanted to confirm.And just wanted to check if adapters along with F mount lenses make it heavy to hold the camera to take photos ? or it is okay.

                One of my friends said that Nikon isn’t good with Mirrorless yet (Canon is better comparatively) and it takes probably couple of more years for Nikon to produce good mirrorless cameraIs. I have no clue and hence wanted to check if original Z7 is still good and produce similar results to D850 ?

                I verified sigma 18-35mm and the reviews are great. is sigma 18-35 compatible with full frame cameras ? ( if I upgrade to D850 or Z7).

                For D7100 sigma 18-35mm seems to be a great choice, but if I upgrade to full frame and if the lens is compatible, this lens might not be good for portraits..correct ? As 35mm is too wide for a full frame camera for portraits..

                And when I checked slick deals , it seems sigma 18-35 has been on sale many times for 500 bucks.. are you aware of this deal ? is it better to wait for such deal or the current 6% off pricing is good ?

                and do you think D850 can go down in price further or this is the maximum discount (2500$)that we can get.. ? I am thinking about all the options considering the thanksgiving deals.

                your comment:

                when you’re comfortable with all your gear and have decided on a mirrorless full-frame, high-quality lenses usually retrain their retail value well. If you get the 20mm, it will work with a full frame, but you’ll probably end up selling it, too… since it would require an adapter to work with a mirrorless camera

                [Sukhesh]

                when you said high quality lenses, you referred to sigma 18-35mm vs nikon 20mm correct ? like sigma 18-35mm has better optics than 20mm ?

                you are the one who guided with 85mm 1.8 vs 50mm 1.8 and confirmed 85mm has better optics. I went with your suggestion and took some great photos :)

                And one final question along with the above..

                how long do you think DSLRs (D850) will be in the market? if it stays for 5-10 years more, I am good with buying it if Z7 is not yet a clear equivalent to D850 as mirrorless is still in starting stages. Please advise..

                sorry for the long message and questions. Awaiting your response. Thank you so much for your help Mathhew!!

              5. Hi Sukhesh,

                Nikon F-mount lenses will not produce any vignetting on Z-mount cameras (at least, no more than they would on F-mount cameras). I certainly haven’t tested all Nikon lenses, but that’s true for all of the ones that I’ve used… that’s not a problem. But Nikon does have a list of lenses that are compatible with the FTZ adapter, if there are any that you have concerns about.

                That said, Nikon changed to the larger Z-mount because it allows them to engineer better lenses. So, yes… I expect Z-mount lenses to ultimately be better than their F-mount counterparts (because they’re newer, if nothing else). I personally find it very annoying to shoot with an adapter on my Sony mirrorless cameras (I adapt Canon lenses) because I often remove my adapter with a Canon lens when I put on a Sony lens, and then don’t have the adapter handy when I need it to attach a different Canon lens. Seems like I should be able to keep track of my adapter, but somehow I don’t.

                Anyway, I do think that you’ll eventually want to use native Z-mount lenses, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t use your existing F-mount lenses in the meantime and get good results… and a great lens is still great, even if there’s a better lens out there somewhere. An adapter will add a little weight, but many of Nikon and Canon’s mirrorless lenses are also really heavy, so I don’t think of weight as being a big issue.

                Canon and Nikon entered the mirrorless camera market at the same time, while Sony was already several generations in. Sony has really been the leader in mirrorless cameras; they have the most available bodies and lenses (Sony lenses, but also lenses from Tamron, Sigma, Zeiss, Samyang, etc). I’m a big fan, but it’s easier to switch from Canon to Sony because Canon lenses can be adapted, while Nikon can’t very reliably.

                So, both Nikon and Canon have a little catching up to do with mirrorless, but I don’t think that Nikon is any worse than Canon (with the exception of 8K video on the R5, which is class leading). And for my money, I’d rather use an original Z7 than a D850. Don’t know about the D850 price, though.

                The Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 will not work on full frame, F or Z mount. I don’t keep track of the prices very well… I’ve never seen it from a reputable source (with USA warranty) for less than about $600.

                I was referring to the Sigma 18-35 as having high quality optics, but wasn’t comparing it to the Nikon 20mm; that’s really apples to oranges (zoom to prime). Just meant that if you switch to Z-mount, you’d probably sell both of them, eventually.

                Canon and Nikon have already stopped developing new DSLRs and lenses for them. They’ll keep selling the existing ones as long as they have them and as long as people want them, and there will always be a strong used-lens market. I’d guess that they’ll linger in stores for another 3 or 4 years? Maybe 5? But that’s just a guess.

                Good luck!

              6. Thank you so much for your patience and help in making me understand the minute details so I can make a better decision. You are the best!! I understood the points you mentioned and I am more leaning to buy a z7 instead of d850 now. I want to know your opinion on refurbished cameras and the 3 month warranty window. I don’t know if this a thanksgiving deal or just the regular price. Adorama has z7 refurbished for 2045$. Here is the link:

                https://www.adorama.com/nkz7r.html

                Do you think this is a great deal ? Is buying refurbished okay ?Though I am a bit Good at photography now I am not sure if I will be able to pin point if there are any issues with the camera within 3 months of warranty period. Some people say refurbished cameras are great as they have been extensively tested than the new cameras. Not sure if this is true as I don’t understand why they reduce the warranty period to 3 months instead of 1 year. Please advise.

                Also , I have an indoor party coming up at my house on December 4th. If I order now and get this camera , is this a big learning curve or it’s easy to take photos on z7 with my old fx lenses. And does the Ftz adapter come for lower price if I buy a refurbished camera along with adapter ?

                And are z lenses compatible with dslrs with adapter ? I am aware of ftz adapters about backward compatibility. And I am wondering if there is any such thing that does forward compatibility to adapt z lenses to dslrs. If that’s the case , I would consider buying a z lens and use it with dslr so that I can switch to mirrorless later . Please advise. Thank you for all your help and guidance!!

              7. Hi Sukhesh,

                I don’t have any particular opinion on refurbished cameras; I have never purchased one… though many of my readers have. If they’re refurbished by the manufacturer, they’re usually like-new, and I’ve never heard anyone have a major problem with one… but who knows what that means. $2045 sounds like a good price to me, and you can always buy a 3rd party warranty if you’re not comfortable with the 90-day. But I’ll have to leave that up to you.

                As far as I know, FTZ adapters are full price right now with refurbished cameras, and cost about $247, so if the refurb camera is $2045, you’re looking at about $2300… while a brand new Z7 + FTZ kit currently costs about $2545. So, you’ll have to decide whether your peace of mind regarding the warranty is worth $250 to you.

                That said, I don’t know of any adapter that allows a Z-mount lens to be used on an older F-mount camera. That will pretty much be a one-way street. However, if you’re familiar with Nikon cameras, the Z7 will be really easy for you to switch over to. It might take a day or two for you to test out the different auto-focus modes and figure out what works best for you (and you’ll want to make sure that you’re upgraded to the latest firmware), but beyond that, there’s nothing different at all about the controls.

                Good luck!

              8. Thank you so much Matthew for your valuable suggestions as always. The reason I am thinking to go for z7 instead of sigma 18-35 lens in the meanwhile (with D7100 ) is eventually I need to sell the lens as it can no longer be used on mirrorless even with ftz adapter(DX lens). I realized that selling a camera /lens is not easy these days (mirrorless move) as no one contacted me even after I published an advertisement to sell D7100 and kit lens for 40% of my purchase price. So wanted to check if sigma 24-70 2.8 for Nikon f mount is good or not ? Another advantage is range for this lens as it translates to 36-105 for good portraits compared to 18-35mm and can be used on mirrorless in future with ftz adapter. I know it’s a little expensive around 1000$. is it better to go for Nikon 24-70mm(1500$) given the 500$ price difference ? My favorite option is mirrorless switch now but as it is expensive I want to check the below.

                If I go for mirrorless (z7) I won’t have budget left in near future to buy any lenses. So my question Would be :

                D7100+50mm 1.8 prime VS Z7+24-70mm Nikon 2.8 /Sigma 2.8 which one is better ? Which one can produce great images in comparison?

                Also when I checked more reviews , some people mentioned auto focus issues of z7 in low light environment when compared with D850. Are they noticeable for not a professional photographer like me ? I do have plan to do some low light clicks in my close friends wedding soon. There will be a professional photographer :) but I am planning to click some photographs as well for the wedding :)

                Sorry for my confusion and seeking advice multiple times. Decision would have been easier if there is no mirrorless confusion :) Request you to guide me in this regard. Thank you Mathhew !!

              9. I did not test the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 ART on Nikon mount, but I did test it on Canon. For me, autofocus was poor, and image quality was mediocre. I much preferred the Tamron 24-70 and G2. I have a couple of videos on YouTube about them, if you’re interested, comparing them to the Canon f/2.8L II (which is optically was the best on the market, at the time), and the Tamron held up well.

                The D7100 vs Z7 comparison is really apples and oranges; but you’ll have more flexibility with the Z7.

                Unfortunately, I haven’t used the Z7 enough in low light to be able to give you a good report, there. It seemed fine to me, in moderately low light, but I have limited experience with it.

                Sorry I can’t be more help.

              10. Sorry for my dumb question Matthew!! For comparing Nikon d7100 with z7. Actually, the only problem was budget and I was little scared and worried about using an expensive body with a mediocre (50mm) lens. As you said in 2014, the first thumb rule is to get a better lens with a good camera (than better camera with a Mediocre lens). I still remember that. By your suggestion I went ahead with d7100 and bought two lenses. I hope this is my last question regarding upgrade this time :) and sorry for asking a lot of questions. I was looking at z6 and some features are comparable to z7. Could you please let me know on what should I consider (z6 vs z7). and if you were in my place, could you please confirm on what would you go with out of below options.

                Z6($1643.00 with ftz adapter)+ good Z lens for portraits ( pl suggest if there are any lenses like sigma 18-35 that you suggested for dslrs)

                Versus

                Z7($2543.00 with ftz) + existing fx 50mm and 85mm primes.

                Thanks in advance Mathhew !! You have been so patient in answering all my questions.

                If this is my last question for this upgrade(hopefully), a very happy thanksgiving to you and your family!

              11. And i am not sure if I let you know about my preferences. I am interested in portraits as always for indoors and outdoors. I am little interested in low light as well but that’s not my preference. Thanks In advance Matthew!

              12. Could you also please suggest the bundles for z7 and z6 that covers the most that are required. Thanks!

              13. Hi Matthew,

                Did you get my messages ?

                I don’t see these messages when I open in another browser.. hence making sure

              16. Not a dumb question… just hard to answer :-)

                The Z6 and Z7 have a lot of similarities; the biggest difference is the sensor resolution, of course: the Z6 has a 24.5 megapixel sensor and the Z7 is 45.7, so the Z6 is a little more nimble (can shoot 12 frames per second) while the Z7 is more detail oriented (but can still shoot a very respectable ~9 frames per second). Similarly, the larger receptors on the Z6 sensor will capture more light compared to signal noise, so they’ll give you less noise/grain in low light (though down-scaling a 45 megapixel image to 24 will also remove a lot of the noise).

                Generally speaking, the extra resolution of the Z7 will be useful for landscape photographers who love to capture as much fine detail as possible for large prints, it’s a little less useful for portrait work, but some people will use it, and for any photographer who likes to crop their photos heavily when editing.

                I shoot the A7RIII, which is the Sony model that Nikon was trying to match with the Z7, so of course I think that the high resolution meets my needs as a photographer better than other cameras… but it sounds to me as though the Z6 might work just as well for you. But that’s just a matter of personal preference, and I’m afraid I can’t help you there :-)

                There aren’t any lenses comparable to the 18-35 for mirrorless, yet (in fact, nothing like them for DSLR, either, except for that one lens). However, there are some good 24-70 lenses for Z-mount… an f2.8 which will cost a ton, and an f/4 which is available on the used market for around $600 and is excellent, but not an f2.8.

                So, if I were you, I’d start with whichever one of the two bodies you think will meet your needs, either the (Z6 and FTZ) or (Z7 and FTZ) and see what kind of results you get with your existing 50 and 85mm primes. They should be excellent, and the IBIS and eye-detection should give you sharper images with either camera. Then, down the road, you can choose the right lens for your needs… when they’re available. Nikon still hasn’t made an 85 f/1.4, or 135 f/1.8 (both popular for portraits), but they do have a couple of nice f/1.8 wide angle primes (24 and 35). Again, that’s a matter of personal taste.

                And actually, now that I think about it… you haven’t mentioned shooting sports. If you’re considering the Z6, the Nikon Z5 is very similar to the Z6, but without the top shooting speeds (you’ll get something like 6 fps), and it’s very reasonably priced. But don’t get any of the kit lenses… you’ll be disappointed with the small apertures. And that will leave you more money to spend on good lenses.

                Good luck!

              17. Thank you so much Matthew for your guidance :) you are the best! I would not have made a good decision without your inputs. I bought a z6 as I did not like the 1.7 crop on videos on z5 and I am planning to shoot a little bit of videos. (FPS was not a problem though :) ). I tried the camera with my 50mm today and the results are excellent !! I love the low light capabilities of z6. I need to try more but I am very happy with the camera. Ftz adapter is working seamlessly and just wanted to ask another suggestion :) now the 24-70mm 2.8 lens for f mount is 1596$ with vr and 24-70mm 2.8 z mount lens is 1999$. Given the seamless integration, is it good to go ahead with f mount version ? Or z mount is better than f mount lens and will have resale value as well? thank you so much for your patience. If I have a guru in deciding my gear, that’s you ! I am very grateful !! I am very happy to follow your website and guidelines! Thank you !!

              19. If the Z 24-70 f/2.8 is coming from Nikon, factory refurbished, that’s definitely the direction that I’d go. The Z-mount lens offers significantly better performance (though the F-mount isn’t bad) and better re-sale value (should the need arise). And from Nikon, you should get a good quality lens, refurb or not.

                The only downside is that you won’t be able to use it on your F-mount cameras. But I doubt you’ll find that to be a problem.

                Good luck! Enjoy the Z6 :-)

              20. Thank you Matthew ! Unfortunately Nikon refurbished lens is gone pretty quick. I will look out for better deals on z 24-70mm 2.8 and will plan to buy. Thank you so much !

              21. Ahh, too bad you missed it! I’ve been (mostly) on vacation for the past several days… sorry I couldn’t get back to you sooner :-) I’m sure another good deal will crop up if you keep an eye out.

  6. How could you not emphasize the wifi and gps capabilities of the D5300 as compared to the 7100, which has none? That’s major to a lot of us both amateur and professional.

    Reply

  7. Hi,
    I have the D5300 and I want to buy the “new” af-s 200-500 nikon lens for telephoto.
    Even if is technically compatible in stationary mode I want to take action pictures as wild birds or sports pictures as surf.
    Do they match without problem on handheld mode only or should always use tripod to get sharp images? Or not even choose this lens…

    thanks

    Reply

    1. Hi Joao,

      I have not used that lens with the D5300, specifically, but there’s no reason that they shouldn’t be 100% compatible. The VR will work the same regardless of what camera you’re using, so you can shoot hand-held, as long as you’re shooting at a reasonable shutter speed for the focal length. Nikon says that it will give you 4.5 stops of stabilization… but let’s say 3 stops just to be safe.

      Without VR, shooting at 500mm, you’d want at least 1/500th second on full frame, 1/750th second on APS-C like the D5300. So, with three stops of stabilization, you’d cut that in half three times… so 1/90th of a second or so would be the lower limit for hand-holding that lens when zoomed to 500mm.

      That said, you will generally get sharper pictures if you shoot from a tripod, at any shutter speed. So, I’d experiment with both (or a monopod), but you should be able to hand-hold in decent light.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  8. Matt,
    I happened to check into a DSLR shop this weekend and had my hands on to D7100 and D5500. But the 5500 seemed so small for my palm which was a downer for me. Right now i have two options : D7100 with a 18-105mm kit lens and D5300 with 18-55 and 70-300 kit lens. Which one out of the both would you suggest or do you have any other options to suggest for the long run? . Eagerly awaiting your reply.

    Reply

  9. Hello

    I am trying to decide between the d5300 and the d7100. I take sports photography for our local high school and need to upgrade. the problematic areas are local football fields with sub par lighting and gyms for volleyball and basketball. Can you help with this decision?

    Reply

    1. Hi Joann,

      I completely understand how hard it can be to shoot sports in poorly lit gyms and sports fields… it’s easier now than it was back in the days of film (I spent years doing it for my high-school newspaper in the early 1990s), but even now it can be problematic.

      Unfortunately, neither camera (D5300 or D7100, or their updated models… the D5500 and D7200) has any advantage when it comes to shooting in low light, though they’re both quite good. That is to say, the sensors in each camera are equivalent for all practical purposes when it comes to low light. To really get an advantage in low light, you’ll need a full-frame sensor, like the Nikon D610, D750, etc.

      The D7100 does have other advantages, though, for sports: better autofocus, better frame rate, better flash system, better shutter speeds, etc. I’d lean that direction pretty heavily.

      You can really improve the performance of either camera when taking sports photos in low light by using the right lens for the job. As you may know, most of the kit lenses and consumer-level zoom lenses have maximum aperture ranges like f/4 – 5.6 or f/3.5 – 5.6, which means that when you’re zoomed in all the way, the widest aperture you can use is f/5.6. If, on the other hand, you use a lens like a 70-200mm f/2.8, that f/2.8 aperture will be available at any time… and f/2.8 gives you 4 times as much light as f/5.6. And if you really want to step up your game in low light, a lens like the Sigma 50-100mm f/1.8 will give you more than twice as much light as the f/2.8.

      All of that means that if with an f/5.6 lens you’re only able to get 1/125th of a second shutter speed at your chosen ISO (not enough to stop action), you’d get a 1/500th of a second with an f/2.8 (enough to stop a lot of action) or 1/1000th sec at f/2 with the Sigma f/1.8 (enough to stop pretty much any action).

      Perhaps you know all of that already… but it’s still worth a reminder. My advice, as you’ve probably seen below, is generally to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford. They hold their value and make the most difference in your images.

      A 70-200mm f/2.8 is generally a great lens for just about any sport (check out my video on the subject). However, if you don’t want to spend $1200 on a lens, you can get shorter lenses that will give you even more light: look at the Nikon 35mm, 50mm, and 85mm f/1.8G lenses. You’ll have to be relatively close to the players with all of them, but they’ll give you a lot of light.

      – Matthew

      Reply

    1. Hi Artur,
      No, the D5300 does not have 1.3x crop mode, but you can always crop it in post processing/Lightroom/Photoshop instead.The results will be the same.
      – Matthew

      Reply

  12. I have decided to trade in my Sony Cybershot for a DSLR after using my sister’s Canon Rebel T5i. I have done A LOT of research and my head is still spinning quite q bit. There re so many choices! I had decided on the Nikon D5300 because it seemed that it would fit all my needs for photographing while hiking and capturing my dogs in action. After reading about the D7100, I am concerned that I may be missing out on potential aspects of moving targets while hiking (and of my dogs in action). I love photography and used to shoot and develop with an old 35mm film camera. I miss the manual input of creating my own photographs. I also have several possible side jobs that would be mostly portrait photography but some would be pets. Is there any reason the D5300 would not fit my needs? Thank you for an input.

    Reply

    1. Hi Leslie,

      The D5300 would almost certainly meet all of your photographic needs; it has a great sensor and the autofocus system is very good. It’s an excellent portrait camera. The biggest concern will be getting lenses that are sharp enough to make use of the high resolution sensor. Spending the extra money there is much more likely to improve your image quality than buying a D7100.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  13. Hi Matthew,
    Loved your post and responses. Now would seek some advice, I am enthusiast level photographer and was almost sold on Nikon D500 but then felt that in future by it I think will be missing couple of things like
    Auto focus motor – confines me to AF-S lense
    AFP issue for portraits
    Lens micro adjustment, if needed
    1/8000 of shutter speed
    Quick buttons to change settings instead of going to Menu and touchscreen all the time in 5500
    Additional 1.3 crop factor could be used something for additional reach for wildlife
    Capability of using center autofocus at F8

    Do you agree that this miss in D5500 could held me back a little from growing into photography, I love what all rounder things they have added in new D5500 but going back D7100 looks more semi pro with more function and room to grow, would like to buy D7200 but my budget doesn’t allow that :( , please suggest would you recommend going for allround D5500 or D7100. I will persue more of wildlife and portraits. Thanks so much
    Nitin

    Reply

    2. Hi Nitin,

      I have a collection of old Nikon D lenses from the 1990s (back then I was shooting them on film cameras), and while they do still work with my Nikon digital cameras, they’re not as good as modern lenses; they don’t have the modern coatings and they’re just not as sharp. So, while it’s true that the AF motor in the camera will allow you to use more lenses, it won’t let you use a lot of lenses that you’ll want to use.

      Also, the D5500 and D7100 have the same crop factor.

      So, I wouldn’t worry about those things too much.

      I DO think that the AFP issue is a serious one if you’re a sports or portrait photographer, and I definitely prefer a layout with buttons for individual functions. The top shutter speed and micro adjustments can also be serious considerations for wildlife and portrait work, respectively.

      So, it sounds to me as though the D7100 would be a great choice for you. The D7200 would have some advantages for wildlife and action, but you already know that.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  14. Thank you Matthew , you have made up my mind d3500 it is so , and the availability of extra lenses is a plus thank you for your speedy response

    Reply

  15. Hi I’m looking for my first camara ,this would be used for mainly for wildlife , portrait and sports photos , I’m trying to decide between the d3500 and the p900 , as my first camara and not know much about phoyography any advice would be most welcome ,

    Reply

    1. Hi David,
      I don’t have the p900, but I owned the previous model, and the image quality was pretty good, and the zoom was pretty amazing. However, a camera like that just isn’t going to be as responsive and high quality as a DSLR like the D5300 (or D5500). The sensor is much smaller in the P900, so your low-light image quality will be poor in comparison, the optical quality will never match the glass that you can get for the D5300, and the autofocus speed won’t keep up either. Really, there’s no comparison, except that the P900’s compact size and zoom lens makes it a lot more convenient to carry around. I’d go with the D5300, if you’re really interested in photography and pro-quality photos… but the P900 is a good choice as a point and shoot, and the zoom will be very hard to match with a DSLR.

      Reply

  16. Thanks for the article Matthew I’m trying to decide between 7100 and the 5300 leaning towards 5300 until I read in your article about shooting macro. I want to take photos of plants and insects in hd would the 5300 be fine? Thanks

    Reply

  17. Hello Matthew. My interest is taking pictures for Virtual 360 Panorama/Walking for Apartment Rentals (inside and outside-around house, building etc… )
    Which camera and lens do you recommend for begginner with strong will to learn and make progress?

    Reply

    1. Hi Branko,
      For that type of work, the camera itself is much less important than you might expect (at least in terms of image quality). Generally, the 360 Panoramas and Walkthroughs for real estate are displayed online, and smaller than full-screen. But even if they are full-screen, that’s still only 2 megapixels (on a 1080p monitor), which means that with a camera like the Nikon D5300, you’re throwing away 22 megapixels to downsize the image.

      The important part is to be able to control your exposure to get the kind of images you want. The D5300 would be a great option, as would the D5500.

      The lens is a much harder question. In general, wide-angle lenses are the norm for real estate photography. Many wide angle lenses are fine for most things, but small spaces really benefit from ultra-wide angle lenses. For bathrooms in particular, a very wide angle lens helps a ton. So, I’d recommend getting the camera body with a kit lens (either the 18-55 or 18-140mm, depending on what else you’re going to use the camera for) and then buy an additional ultra-wide zoom, which you should be able to use most of the time when you’re shooting indoors. The Sigma 10-20mm lens is a good option, and so is the Tokina 12-28mm f/4. The Sigma goes a little wider, but the Tokina is has a bigger zoom range, so you might be able to use it in more situations (where ultra-wide isn’t so important).

      I’d also recommend getting a tripod, and using it all the time, especially for doing the walk-through pictures. It helps to have pictures taken from the same height when you’re stitching them together, and of course, it makes your pictures sharper. If a tripod is too cumbersome, then a monopod is good, too.
      – Matt

      Reply

  18. Hi Mathew,

    I own D5300. Am contemplating of going for Sigma 24-70 f/2.8. What are your views on its compatibility on performance? My interests are prone to landscape, portrait, street photography.

    Wal

    Reply

    1. Hi Wally,
      The Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 that I owned was for Canon, but I had no problems with it in terms of compatibility or autofocus. It was a good lens for the price… though not optically perfect.

      However, on the D5300, I don’t think that the focal length is ideal. On a full frame camera, the 24mm is a nice wide-angle lens. On the D5300, the 1.5x crop makes it equivalent to a 36mm, which just isn’t very wide.

      There are two other lenses that I’d consider instead (or in addition, if you have more money than you know what to do with :-) ). The Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 ART series lens is AWESOME optically, and it has that wonderfully large aperture. That 18mm end of the zoom will give you a 27mm equivalent wide angle, which is pretty good if you need a wide angle lens, and the 35mm end brings you just beyond the 50mm mark, so it’s a good wide to normal zoom, with really excellent optics.

      Alternately, there’s the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8, which will give you the equivalent focal lengths of a 24-70mm lens, but on your APS-C camera. (Of course, it’s not exactly 24-70… it’s 25.5-75mm, but it’s close). I also own this one for Canon, but the focus is fast and reliable, and the optics are quite good… about on par with the 24-70, if not a bit better. At the 50mm end of the zoom, the borders of the frame are not quite as sharp as the center, so you’ll want to stop down to f/4 when it’s critical. The build quality isn’t as robust as it could be. Otherwise, it’s a great lens.

      Reply

      1. Hi Mathew,

        Thanks a ton for that exhaustive reply. Few more questions – would the lenses that you suggested be compatible for any upgrade of camera body I would do in future? Although I don’t plan to do so very soon.

        And what are your thoughts on 18-300/ 18-200 f/3.5 (both Sigma & Nikon models). Are they really worth for some serious photography? As I said earlier, I am hobbyist cum amateur (and probably at this age may not think of moving into professional to make it as bread and butter). At times I wonder is it just my mental block or obsession or fascination to have something large zoom !

        thx in advance once again
        Wal

        Reply

        1. Currently, there’s no such thing as a good 18-200mm lens (and the 18-270/300mm is even worse). The problem is, the more zoom range that you try to cram into a single lens, the harder it is to get great image quality at any given part of that range. The result is that you end up with lots of color fringing, poor resolution, and lots of distortion. I own the Nikon 18-200 VR, and while I was out testing it, I took some shots that I thought were wonderful… only to discover later that the poor quality of the lens practically ruined them. It’s very disappointing. The same is true of the Canon version, and the Tamron, and the longer zooms.

          That said, the 18-140 is getting close to that range, and its optics are actually pretty respectable. Nikon used to make an 18-135mm (now discontinued) that was great, and it was replaced by the even better 18-140. I’ve had great results from both. Canon’s original 18-135 was as bad as its 18-200, but the new STM version of their 18-135 is quite good… so it’s just a matter of time before we get a good 18-200. But it’s not yet.

          The Sigma 18-35 and 17-55 lenses mentioned above will be compatible with future APS-C cameras, but NOT full frame cameras. So, if you decide to get a D750 or D810 (or similar), you’ll have to sell them. The nice thing is that if you buy good quality lenses, they retain their value well when it comes time to put them up for sale. The 18-35 will be better in that regard.
          – Matt

          Reply

          1. With lots of search here and there, I am close to zero down on Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 or Nikon 10-24 f/3.5-4.5 for my D5300. Could you kindly lend your assessment on both of these? I had kept Tokina 11-20 also in bucket list, but ticked it off as I got to know it has some unacceptable flare issues.

            Reply

  19. I am not so sure the D7100 and the D5300 share BID sensors. I think the D7100 is using the Toshiba (TOS) 5105 (HEZ1 die) and the D5300 is Sony Exmor IMX193. Chipworks might have better information. Sony owns the BID CMOS space right now…the light efficiency of the Sony sensors is unparalleled…currently. If you flip the mirror up and the edge of the die is blue then Sony…black then Toshiba…I think that’s the easiest way to tell visually. Nikon does not really want you to know…me thinks…but iFixit and lots of folks tear everything down to the last screw…so there’s not much way to hide any more…and still have parts be serviceable/replaceable.

    My experience thus far with D5300 is great color capture…even at absurdly high ISO…

    Reply

    1. Hi Matt,

      You’re right. It took me a while to figure that out, and I’ve updated that information in the newer comparison articles, but it looks like I’ll have to go back and change these older ones. Thanks for pointing it out.

      Despite the differences in manufacturer, the image quality difference is still almost non-existent in correctly exposed images, in my experience.

      – Matthew

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