Nikon D5200 vs D7100

Nikon D5200 vs D7100 : Which Should You Buy?

The Nikon D5200 outclasses any Canon camera in its price range, at least for the time being. It is faster, with a better AF system and image sensor than any of the “Rebel” series cameras, and in many ways surpasses even the (admittedly out-dated) Canon 60D, making it the obvious choice for most photography enthusiasts. Unfortunately, the choice is not so easy when the new Nikon D7100 enters the discussion. Which one is right for you? Below, I’ll compare the most significant differences.

Nikon D5200 vs D7100: What’s the Difference?

To begin with, we can take a look at the most significant specs for the D5200 and the D7100. I’ve also included those of the Nikon D7000, a camera that has been exceedingly popular with amateur and professional photographers alike for the past few years.

Model Nikon D5200 Nikon D7100 Nikon D7000
Price (body)
$696 $679.95
Price (with 18-105 kit lens)
3/15/2013
$1096 $1496 $1096
Body Material Plastic Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic
Sensor Resolution 24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)
24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)
16 Megapixels
(Sony)
Anti-Aliasing Filter
(Reduces sharpness, prevents moire)
YES NO YES
ISO Range 100-6400
+12800
+25600
100-6400
+12800
+25600
100-6400
+12800
+25600
Total AF Points 39 51 39
Cross-Type AF Points 9 15 9
AF Motor In Body
(For Using Older AF Lenses)
NO YES YES
AF Light Level Range -1 to +19 EV -2 to +19 EV -1 to +19 EV
Autofocus Fine Tuning
Adjustments
NO YES YES
Shutter Speed Range 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Expected Shutter Life 100,000 Shots 150,000 Shots 150,000 Shots
Max Frame Rate 5 fps 6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
6 fps
Max RAW Burst
(buffer size)
8 shots, compressed 14-bit 7 shots lossless 12-bit
6 shots lossless 14-bit
11 shots lossless 12-bit
10 shots lossless 14-bit
Max JPG Burst
(fine, Large)
35 33 31
Flash Sync Speed 1/200th sec. 1/250th sec.
(1/320th* sec, or slower,)
1/250th sec.
Wireless Flash
(Built-in Commander)
NO YES YES
Auto FP Flash Mode
(High Speed Sync)
NO YES YES
Media Slots 1 SD / SDHC / SDXC 2 SD / SDHC / SDXC 2 SD / SDHC / SDXC
LCD Size 3.0"
921,000 pixels
3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
3.0"
921,000 pixels
LCD Articulated Yes No No
Body Weight 505g (no battery)
555 g (with battery)
675 (no battery) 690g (no battery)
780g (with battery)
Battery Life 500 shots
CIPA Standards
950 shots
CIPA Standards
1050 shots
CIPA Standards
Viewfinder Coverage 95% Frame
.78x Magnification
100% Frame
.94x Magnification
100% Frame
.95x Magnification
Video Codec MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
Video Resolutions 1920 x 1080 (60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)
1920 x 1080 (60i*, 50i*, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)

*only in 1.3x crop mode
1920 x 1080 (24fps)
1280 x 720 (30, 25, 24 fps)
PAL or NTSC
Video Length Limit 29 min 59 sec. 29 min 59 sec. About 20 Minutes
Headphone Jack No Yes No
Internal Mic Stereo Stereo Mono

.

Build Quality

Perhaps the most obvious difference between the D7100 and the D5200 is in their construction. The D5200 is smaller and lighter, with a body made entirely of polycarbonate, while the D7100 is heavier and built for durability, with a metal (magnesium alloy) back and top.  Since the D5200 also uses a smaller battery, the carry-around weight of the D7100 is about 30% more than the D5200.

Whether this is an advantage or disadvantage depends on your photographic needs; some photographers (especially those with larger hands) prefer a larger camera with some ‘heft’ to it, while others prefer something more lightweight and easy to carry around, especially travelers and hikers. Needless to say, those who work in harsh conditions will also prefer the D7100’s weather sealing and heavier-duty construction, as a matter of practicality.

The Sensor : Lack of AA Filter Probably Not Significant

The success of the D800e may have led directly to Nikon’s decision to produce an APS-C camera without an anti-aliasing (AA) filter, but whatever led to the fact, the D7100’s sensor is naked.  Before the D800e, all of the major SLRs produced their sensors with an AA filter: essentially an extra layer in front of the sensor that blurs the image slightly, in order to reduce the jagged edges and moire that have traditionally been associated with digital capture. With modern improvements in image processing software, though, Nikon was confident that the moire and jaggies could be avoided without the AA filter, so they opted to remove it and allow the cameras to capture finer image detail.

Comparisons of images produced by the D800 (AA Filter) and D800e (no AA Filter) have shown that the principle works; there are subtle improvements in fine detail in the D800e’s images. However, we should not expect such significant improvements in the D7100’s images. The receptors on the 24 megapixel sensor of the D7100 are already much, much smaller than those of the D800e. In fact, the D7100 fits about 56% more pixels into the same sensor area than the D800e

1 Further details and measurements can be found on DigicamDB.

.

Why does that matter? Even with the much larger receptors of the D800, lens resolution has become a serious bottle-neck for image quality

2 See this DxO Mark article for further details.

. The dramatically higher pixel density of Nikon’s 24 megapixel sensors will tax lens resolution even more, meaning that the D7100’s images won’t get much sharper unless lenses get sharper first.

So, it is reasonable to expect that the center portion of images taken with the D7100 and your best lenses will show slight improvements in fine detail compared to the D5200, but don’t expect much more… and that is assuming that you’re using a tripod and other best-practices for maximizing sharpness.

Auto Focus Systems

Unlike most entry and mid-level SLRs, the Nikon D5200 has a very sophisticated autofocus system. While cameras like the Canon T4i and 60D have 9 autofocus points, the D5200 has 39, though only 9 of them are cross-type

3 If you don’t know why cross-type points are so important, I recommend watching the first half of our Photography Notes video

.  As you can see from the chart above, this autofocus system, which also incorporates color information, has been adopted from the Nikon D7000.

The D7100, however, shares the same AF system with the flagship Nikon D4 and the D800: 51 AF points, including 15 cross-type… the best system available in a Nikon body.

For all but the most dedicated action photographers, the system in the D5200 (and D7000) will be more than sufficient, even if you’re buying a camera primarily for shooting sports. If your paycheck, however, is going to depend on your focusing system, the extra several hundred dollars will be well spent on the D7100.

D7100 vs d5200 back
Matthew Gore | Light And Matter

Speed

When it comes to speed, the differences between the D5200 and D7100 are more modest that you might expect. The D7100 does have a top shutter speed that is one full f-stop faster than the D5200’s (ie, 1/8000th vs 1/4000th). When it comes to shooting bursts of photos, though, the D7100 only provides an additional frame per second over the D5200’s 5 fps (unless you’re shooting in 1.3x crop mode, in which case it will give up an additional frame per second).

More importantly, though, the under-sized buffer in the D7100 does not allow longer bursts than the D5200; in fact, the D5200 comes out on top in this case. While the D5200 can shoot bursts of 8 RAW (or 35 JPG) shots, the D7100 can only shoot 7 RAW (33 JPG) before the buffer is full. Compare this to the 15 RAW shots allowed by a Canon 60D or 25 in a 7D4 with the most recent firmware upgrade. Originally, the 7D also shot about 15 RAW frames before filling the buffer , and it will be clear that neither Nikon is probably ideal for photographers who rely on the machine-gun method of action photography.

Overhead, Nikon D7100 and D5200
Matthew Gore | Light And Matter

The D5200’s Downfall

Flash. With the popularity of “Strobist” techniques over the past several years, flash photography has become increasingly important to amateur and semi-pro photographers, and this is where the D5200 falls short: it lacks high-speed-sync (Auto FP Flash, henceforth AFP) and external flash control with the built-in flash. External flash control may not be a big deal; many of us prefer to use radio-units instead… though the built-in IR system can be very useful with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS).

The lack of AFP, however, is a serious problem. Consider this situation: you’re shooting a portrait outdoors during the day, and you want to use a large aperture to blur the background… perhaps f/2 or f/1.4 . This will push your shutter speed beyond 1/1000ths of a second, much higher than the camera’s 1/200th sec. maximum sync speed. So, if you want to use a flash to soften the shadows or create a catch-light in the eyes of your subject, forget it: the flash will not sync. The same is true if you want to use flash for sports and a high shutter speed, and while you can purchase external command modules or radio transmitters for off-camera-flashes, there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP. You’d need to buy the D7100 instead.

All the Little Things

There are a few other assorted differences that deserve mention here, but they’re mostly the same differences that we saw between the D5100 and D7000. First, the D5200 does not have an autofocus motor built into the camera body, so it will not be compatible with the full range of (old school) Nikon lenses, while the D7100 does posses the motor. And speaking of “focus”, the D7100 is capable of micro adjustments to correct for front or back-focus problems on lenses, while the D5200 is not.

As should be obvious from the images above, the D5200 has an articulated LCD screen, which some people find helpful for ground-level shots and video but others find a breakage hazard or amateurish. The D7100, on the other hand, has a slightly larger LCD at 3.2 instead of 3.0 diagonal inches.

Finally, if you are interested in video, the D7100 has been given a headphone jack for monitoring audio while you shoot. The jack is absent in the D5200 (and D7000).

Which to Buy?

The Nikon D5200 is a great camera, and I’d recommend it for most amateur photographers except for those who need superior flash capabilities.

To summarize, you should buy the D5200 if you:

  • want a great, all-around camera
  • shoot primarily with natural light or studio strobes
  • have smaller hands, or need the lightest body while maintaining high performance
  • need an articulated LCD screen for video or photos

Buy the D7100 if you:

  • are hard on your equipment and need a more durable body
  • use flash for action or fill and need high-speed sync
  • use Nikon’s CLS and want to use the built-in command module
  • have first-rate lenses and shoot images that depend on the sharpest detail
  • shoot macro (or other focus critical work) and need to make micro adjustments to your lenses
  • shoot a lot of video and want a simple headphone jack on your camera

For the sake of simplicity I’ve tried to focus on only the differences that, in my experience, will actually be important. There are, of course, numerous differences between the two cameras, though, and some features may be more important to particular photographers.
If you think that I’ve left out something important, please feel free to let me know.

Please Comment!

If you have additional questions or comments, please let me know, below. I’ll do what I can to answer questions and clear up any confusion.

Finally, if you have found this article useful, please support us by following one of our links if you decide to buy a camera. It will cost you nothing, but will help support additional independent, unbiased comparisons such as this. You can buy from Amazon here for the D5200 and D7100, or B&H Photo here for the D5200 and D7100.

Editor-in-Chief
  1. Thanks very much for this useful comparison. For me, one of the most important differentiators between the two models is the 100% pentaprism viewfinder in the D7100 (and D7000). It has always baffled me that manufacturers
    provide anything less at the point where the camera and photographer connect, even on so-called budget models.
    Cheers, Steve.

    1. 100% coverage is very helpful, I agree. For me, though, the magnification factor is even more important…. it really bugs me when I have to look at a smaller image through the viewfinder instead of a larger, brighter one. In the case of the D5200, having a reduced image size ( .78x magnification) is really unforgivable.

      For me, the larger image in the D7100 is a very strong mark in its favor, though many beginners won’t notice the difference if they’re not used to film cameras or higher-end DSLRs.

      – Matthew

  2. Very fine review, but the LCD in the D5200 will problably do it for me.

    I have the D5100 and love the LCD.

    EVERY camera should have that – also the pros (I have the D3x and miss it there) – it is so convinient for shooting in strange angles and on tripod, and it is possibly to make it “strong” even for pro work.

    For video it is nearly mandatory.

  3. Hi, thanks for the great article. I am particularly interested in HDR photography, can you please compare these cameras for that purpose?

    1. Hi Nima,

      Both the D5200 and D7100 have a built-in HDR mode, if you want to use it. However, for doing high-quality HDR work, you’re not likely to get the best results using automatic, in-camera software. If you’re really interested in HDR, your best option is to use Photomatix or Photoshop to do your processing, where you’ll have complete control over every parameter. You should also shoot in RAW mode, to get the most dynamic range out of each shot. So, either way, there is no particular reason to choose one over the other for HDR work :)

      – Matthew

  4. Hi,
    Thanks for the article it was very clear, better than all of what I have sen before on the web.
    I had two questions.
    Would you say that there is a difference in the video mode between the 7100 and 5200? I used the 7000 for video and was quite satisfied with it. Should I expect something equivalent with the 5200 (or better?).
    And finally, with the 50/60fps video mode, could you say that we could shoot proper slow motion?

    Thanks in advance.

    1. Hello-

      I’d expect the video quality on the D5200 to be at least as good as that of the D7000. Truth be told, though, I don’t do video, except on rare occasions… and almost never with Nikon. So, I’m afraid that I can’t give you useful information regarding the video functionality of these cameras.  Sorry!

      – Matthew

      1. I used both D5200 and D7000 for shooting and recording a video at a wedding. Video quality in the D5200 was much more better, specially if you sharpen the images in post.

  5. I’m trying to decide between these exact two cameras. I use to shoot professionally 20 years ago when i was young. Digital cameras were just beginning to come out then. I don’t have any old lenses to use. I want a fresh start with a new camera. The camera will be used primary to take pictures of my girlfriend using natural light or lighting i control in the studio. I like things simple. Also what is the maximum size SD card i can use? I have 128 GB cards, but the Macintosh only supports 32 GB cards. DO you have a recommendation for a zoom lens?

    1. Hi Stephen,

      It sounds like the Nikon D5200 would be perfect for you; it works nicely with studio flash equipment and natural light, and provides wonderfully high image quality.

      The D5200 supports SDXC cards in any size that they’re currently made. I believe the largest is Lexar 256GB, but there may be a rare 512 out there, too.

      As for the zoom lens… it really depends on what zoom range you’re thinking about, and your budget. I recommend a good wide aperture zoom to anyone who can afford it, like Tamron’s 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD (or Nikon’s more expensive counterpart). If you don’t have specific needs, though, the kit zoom lens (18-105) is a good place to start.

      – Matthew

    1. Hi Ram,

      The D7000 is better in some ways, worse in others… so it depends on what features are important to you. If you take a look at the chart above, I’ve listed all three cameras.

      The D5200 has a higher resolution sensor, and its image quality is also better in general, its AF system is equivalent, and its frame rate is not much slower (5 fps vs 6fps).

      However, the D7000 does have the advantage of a partially metal body, high speed sync and lens micro adjustments, dual card slots, etc.

      They’re both great cameras, but if used well, you’ll probably be able to get better image quality out of the D5200, with good lenses.

      – Matthew

      1. Matthew, your comments are right on! Having come from a Pentax K-5 system (which I was quite happy with until I noticed some “flakiness” with the electronics), to the Nikon D5200 and some nice Nikkor optics (16-85 and 35 f/1.8), I can say that the D5200 does put out some VERY high-quality, low noise, high dynamic range, and SHARP images! (If interested in seeing example jpegs, please check out my stock photography site. The Aruba and New Jersey images were all taken with the Nikon. True, the D7100 is much more robust (and necessarily heavier) and more feature-laden, however, I don’t believe one could differentiate between images taken with each camera, at least at low ISO, all other things being equal. Perhaps the ONLY 2 features I miss on the D5200 are the AF Fine Tune function (though with “good” calibrated glass, it is superfluous), and the Commander Mode for off-camera flash, though that could be mitigated somewhat if you had 2 Nikon SB-700 Speedlights. Then, I think one of them on camera could act as a “Commander” for the off-camera flash. Great reviews as usual, sir!

  6. Thanks for the very relevant comparisons between the D5200 and D7100. The D5200 suits my needs (and budget) much better!

      1. Dear Mr. Matthew,

        Thank you for your brilliant review on this camera. I am just a little concerned about its down fall — the lack of high-speed-sync where you cited in a situation: “shooting a portrait outdoors during the day and want to use a large aperture to blur the background…” My question is, how can I possibly compensate this limitation? Is blurring the background be made possible by the use of another type of lens? I am a beginner and I am planning to purchase my first DSLR. I am considering Nikon D5200 as my best choice. Glad to hear from you soon. THANK YOU.
        – Ronald

        1. Hi Ronald,

          Generally, in this type of situation (where there’s plenty of ambient light), the photographer will opt to use a reflector instead of a flash… a light disc or a sheet of foam-core, etc, or wait until later in the day, or find some shade.

          If those aren’t options, though, then you can still maintain some background blur by using a longer focal length lens (ie, a 200mm rather than a 50mm) . This may help you keep a shallow depth of field, though the quality of the bokeh (out of focus background blur) will be a little different.

          So, there are work-arounds, but none of them are a true substitute for high-speed sync. Keep in mind, though, that high-speed-sync was only developed (or at least, common) in SLRs / Flashes over the past decade or so… and people got along fine without it in the days of film.

          – Matt

          1. Hi mathewis there any device that can break the max speed sync 1/200 of nikon d5200, can the phottix odin wireless triggering system will so the trick? thanks for your awesome review. god bless

            1. Hi Edwin,

              If the camera’s metering / flash control system doesn’t support high speed sync, there’s no way to get around it, as far as I know. It may be possible for Nikon to enable the feature with a firmware upgrade… or it may be a hardware limitation, but whatever the case may be, connecting the flash and camera by a different method won’t bypass that limitation.

              1. It might, yes. It will also dim your flash by 4 stops, of course, but that may not be a problem… and HSS flash is significantly lower power than full sync flash is anyway.

  7. By far one of the BEST photog reviews I have ever read. Completely succint and relevant to all my concerns.

  8. Thanks for a great article. You’ve introduced ideas that matter to a discussion rather than focusing upon the fine details that really won’t make a jot of difference to most peoples’ camera skills.
    Little things that are overlooked elsewhere include the internal/lens-drive motor issue which would make a couple of my lenses redundant.
    And whether it has Wi-Fi or not does little to make me choose one over another (Almost an argument on another page).
    I guess when it comes down to speed of achieving focus, that’s mainly with the lens.
    Might be the 7000 for me!

  9. do the D7100 have faster AF than the D5200 or both the same speed?
    for photographing a running horse toward me like in this photo
    <img src=”http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/555288_365101180212764_921836109_n.jpg”>

    1. The camera’s part in the AF is going to be about the same between the D5200 and D7100; they’re both more than sufficient at any rate. Remember though, that AF speed is a function of the camera’s AF system and the lens’s focusing motor… so a high quality lens with a fast motor  on a mid-range camera will out-perform even the D4 with a cheap lens.

      – Matt

  10. Great article. You did a great job of netting out the key differences in a tight, easy to absorb summary. Very helpful, thanks!

    1. Hi John,
      Like most comparisons of this sort, the truth is probably not really so dramatic. The D5200 has a significantly better sensor and dramatically better autofocus system than the T4i. When it comes to burst speeds, they’re about the same. The Canon T4i does support high-speed sync, and it can control off-camera flashes with the pop-up flash. So, they’re really both good cameras, but they have different strengths.

      – Matthew

  11. i’m really disappointed in nikon making the d5200 without flash fill. i feel i really need the articulating screen but also need flash fill. do you have any suggestions?

    1. Hey Trixie,

      Just so we’re clear, the Nikon D5200 does provide fill flash… just not with high-speed sync. This means that you’ll only get fill flash when the shutter speed is below 1/200th sec (which was how fill flash always worked, in the old days :) ). If you really want the articulated screen and high-speed sync fill, you could go with any of the Canons instead (Rebel T3i – T5i, or 60D). They’re also good cameras.

      – Matthew

      1. thanks for your feedback.
        would you have any info regarding which camera is more reliable, durable and problem free? the d5200 or t5i?

        1. They’re both very durable and reliable at this point; the D5200 is just based on refinements of the D5000 and D5100, little tweaks to make it better and more reliable. The same is true of the T5i… it’s a minor upgrade to the T4i that is less than a year old, and the T3i barely more than a year before that.

          Neither of them are as strong as professional, metal-bodied cameras like the Canon 7D or Nikon D800, but I’ve never heard of problems with breakage in either family.

          – Matthew

  12. Thanks for this great article. I have spent several hours at various photo shops in my home town (Edmonton, Canada) comparing these two, using an existing Nikon lens. Interesting, the feedback I repeatedly got was that I should go with the 7100 as it was a “better” camera (there were lots of reasons why, but that was the bottom line). However, having small hands and not liking the weight, my gut told me that the 5200 was the better camera for me, and with photos I took at the store, there was very little difference I could see between pictures I took with these two cameras, except when I zoomed in and then dramatically cropped the photos and expanded them (I took along my own card to let me compare photos at home, and I have to say the store staff were excellent at allowing me to play around and give advice – shout out to McBain Camera). Thus, for most of the photographers who will use these cameras I will agree that we will never notice differences in image quality between them. Thus, I am off to get the 5200 and am really grateful you gave such clear advice

  13. I just spent a couple of hours reading through the articles and links on this site and all I can say is thank you!! for all of the helpful details and explanations. I’ve never used a DSLR camera before but always been obsessive about taking photos in my compact digital camera…now I’m receiving a DSLR camera of my choice as a graduation present and have been almost overwhelmed by the possibilities as a beginner. If I normally would just be taking photos of scenery/architecture/social activities, as a beginner would the D5200 be too overwhelming as my first DSLR? And what would be the best lens that I would want to buy for these purposes? I’ve read some of your lenses links but I’d like just a quality lens for a great value, nothing super expensive that professionals use. I wouldn’t be worried about having a great macro lens as I can’t imagine I’d be taking very many extreme close-up shots. Money is not an option but from what I’d be using it for the D7100 seems excessive vs the D5200. Thanks!

  14. Hi Matthew,

    I’m an amateur photographer where I do it mainly as a hobby. I’ve been using a Nikon D3000 for two years and finally decided I wanted to upgrade to a nicer camera. I do have a budget but I can’t decide between the D5200 and D7100 when it comes to what I’ll be using them for. I’ll be doing a lot of portrait photoshoots mostly and I go to conventions where I take hall photos of people in costumes or do private shoots. I also want to occasionally take some video but nothing too extreme like a cinematic endeavor. A lot of conventions have bad lighting unless we’re outside (and the sun conveniently is out). I currently have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8D and if I get the D5200 I would have to get a new 50mm for I am done with not having autofocus. But if I get the D7100 I get to keep the lens I currently have, and save money on future lens that don’t have AF-S. Overall, buying one or the other is about the same (with the D7100 being $200 more) and I just can’t decide on what to pick for the final plunge.

    Any suggestions? (And if you possibly have a lens recommendation for conventions that would be great too)

    Thanks!

    1. Hi Juliet,

      Even if you buy a new Nikon 50mm f/1.8G with a D5200, the D7100 body will cost about $275 more… which is still significant.

      My advice is always to buy the least expensive camera body that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford. So, the question is… will the D5200 meet your needs? It’s a good portrait camera in general, so we need to look at some specifics.

      Consider flash, first. Even if you bought a decent off-camera flash radio trigger system, like the Phottix, you’re still about $200 under the price of a D7100. And since most of us will agree that on-camera, direct flash is awful… you won’t want to use your pop-up flash… you’ll want a real flash with a head that you can bounce or remove from the camera for high quality, diffused light, like the Nikon SB-700 or (even better) a Nissin 866 II. That price difference in the body makes up for a good chunk of that cost. Well-used flash could be very helpful at conventions, and it is very important for portraiture.

      All of that makes me lean towards the D5200, but if you have no desire to use flash, then you can ignore it.

      Similarly, you need to assess the likelihood that you’ll need high-speed sync flash, if you do use flash. This is the one major deal-breaker: if you do need it, you have to go with the D7100. So… do you shoot action in daylight with flash, or shoot daylight events where you need fill flash and shallow depth of field?  If so, then you might need to go for the D7100, regardless.

      It doesn’t sound like it, though. So, my advice would be to go for the D5200 with a 50mm f/1.8G, sell your old lens, and practice using bounce-flash, if you haven’t already mastered it :) Again, that is if you can’t think of a specific feature of the D7000 that you think you’ll need.

      – Matthew

  15. Hi Matthew,

    First of all congratulations with your excellent review. It is by far the most useful review on the D5200 I’ve read so far. It contains technical details but what’s most important to me is that it’s down to earth. Why bother about differences between 2 cameras that you will only notice in lab conditions…

    I myself finally bought the D5200 with a Nikkor 18-200mm lens. The other choice would have been the D7000 (when I bought my camera last Jan the D7100 was not yet out). But after long deliberation I made for myself the conclusion that I would probably never use the extra features that the D7000 offers over the D5100 and that a lower weight and more recent components were more important.

    But after having shot some 2000 or 3000 pictures I have mixed feelings about the camera. In many cases my D5200 produces incredibly sharp images, both indoors as outdoors. But at the same time, I often have pictures that are (slightly) out of focus, or definitely do not have the sharpness I expects from a DSLR, although I’m absolutely sure that the focussing point is exactly on my subject.

    Did you ever come across focussing issues when testing the D5200? I’m not sure if it’s camera-related (that is having a bad body) or user-related (me doing something wrong). But anyhow this is how I typically focus: set focussing to single-point AF (center), point at the subject and half-press the shutter button and finally do the composition.

    In fact I should take it back to my camera-dealer but I’d be also very much interested in any tips/views you might have.

    Kind regards
    Erik

    1. Hi Erik,

      While it’s impossible for me to say for sure without seeing the images in question, I suspect that the culprit is actually the 18-200mm lens you’re using. I also own a Nikon 18-200 VR, though I haven’t used it in a few years because the image quality is so disappointing. When I got it, years ago, I had read a review that touted it as being an excellent, sharp lens… which was completely wrong (as tests have shown since then). I expected some optical problems, but I was looking for a carry-around lens for snapshots, so I didn’t need optical perfection. I was surprised at how bad the quality really was, in parts of the zoom range. The Canon and other brands of these all-in-one zooms are just as bad. Now that I have more experience with all of these lenses, I recommend that people avoid them.

      But perhaps I’m getting ahead of myself. If this is a focus problem rather than a lens-sharpness problem, you should expect to see the following: when you take a shot, your intended focal plane is soft, but a plane behind or in front of it IS tack sharp, depending on whether the lens is back-focusing or front-focusing.  If the lens is just not producing a sharp image, then everything in the affected areas of the image should be blurry (this can also be caused by camera movement, though).

      If you have an example that you’d like me to take a look at, feel free to email it to me: matthew@lightandmatter.org

      – Matthew

  16. G’day Matthew

    Very inexperienced with DSLR (although I have an older Olympus) but after reading your great review I have decided to buy a D5200 both for photos and occasional movie function.
    At this stage I am looking for an all round lens and would appreciate your advice regarding which of the standard lens packages (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR NIKKOR or 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR ED NIKKOR) would be the better choice.
    Have also considered buying a Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S separately.

    Thanks for your help
    Mick

    1. Hey Mick,

      The D5200 sounds like a good choice, and I’d opt for the 18-105 package with it… you’ll get a better zoom range, and the optical quality is at least as good, if not better than the 18-55. Make sure that if you import your images into Lightroom, you check the “remove chromatic aberration” checkbox, since the lens does suffer from a fair amount.

      Some people really like 35mm lenses; I personally do not, on APS-C cameras. They give you a field of view like an old 50mm lens on a full frame camera, which is frankly, a bit boring… not wide enough to be useful, not telephoto enough to be interesting. But that’s just a matter of personal preference. I prefer an 85mm or 50mm for portraits, and Nikon has good options for both.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      1. G’day Matthew

        Great info from you and other comments. Have settled on the D5200 and went to the store to buy. I was also shown a Tamron 18-270 VC PZD lens which I thought was terrific as a single lens to “do all” when walking around on holidays. Great zoom!

        Is it a reasonable option for me?

        Appreciate your knowledge.

        Cheers
        Mick

        1. Hey Mick,

          I’m afraid that I don’t recommend any of the all-in-one lenses (including Nikon’s 18-200, Canon’s 18-200, Tamrons’ 18-270, etc). Optically, in order to engineer them to cover all of that zoom range pretty well, they’re not VERY good at any of it (and they’re pretty bad at a lot of it, depending on the lens).

          Since the D5200 has such a high resolution sensor, it will reveal the weaknesses in the lenses more than ever.

          They are, of course, very convenient…. and if you’re willing to sacrifice some image quality for convenience, they’re very handy for walking around… but to me, that defeats the purpose of having an SLR (though there are still some major advantages, I suppose.

          Generally, I think that an 18-135  or 18-105 that maintains higher quality throughout the range makes more sense.

          – Matthew

    2. Mick, Along with Matthew’s fine comments, as a current D5200 user, I can attest to the very high quality (sharpness, detail rendition, color) of these 2 Nikkors: the 16-85 f/3.5-5.6, and the 35mm f/1.8. I think the 16-85 is probably the sharpest of the zooms mentioned thus far, although obviously not nearly as sharp as the wonderful 35mm f/1.8. For sample images taken with the D5200 and these fine optics, please check out my stock photography site. Thank you! Steve

      1. Yes, I second that about the 16-85mm 3.5-5.6. I just got it as a replacement to a defective refurbished 18-105mm. The problem with the 18-105 was with the auto focus motor. I could still manually focus it, so I did many studio still life shots with it. The 16-85 is much better quality. The build is a bit better and seems to be better corrected.

    3. Let me also chime in with a lens recommendation: the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM. It’s a GREAT lens for the price, and well worth the price difference to the kit lenses.

      I have the Sigma, plus a 35mm f1.8 (which I very rarely use anymore) and a Tamron AF 60mm f/2.0 for portraits.

      1. diuc,
        Yes, the Sigma 17-50 “sounds” like a fine choice, except that in my case, I wanted that slightly wider view afforded by the 16-85 Nikkor, albeit with the slower maximum aperture. Plus, I just like the 100% compatibility and build quality of these Nikkors, although I admit to never having used this particular Sigma lens. That said, for an ultra-wide option however, I have been considering the Sigma 8-16 for Nikon, as no one else makes one, and I’ve read some good reviews on it. Thanks, Steve

      2. Actually, I’ll second the recommendation on the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 (I’ve recommended it elsewhere, below), though I understand if it’s not a zoom range that you’re looking for. I frequently use the lens (on Canon, though), and I’ve found the optical quality to be excellent, even when compared to the Canon equivalent (though the Canon is sharper wide open at 17mm).

        The ability to shoot at f/2.8 rather than f/5.6 is very significant, and can save you from dealing with the noise you’d otherwise get at high ISO, and of course, the shallow depth of field gives you some nice separation between your subject and background.

        That’s all just to say that it’s worth considering :)

        – Matthew

  17. Hi Matthew,

    I am a camera dummy but a photo snob (raised by a parent who was a professional photographer). I’m about to enter the world of DSLR ownership and learning because I’m always disappointed by compact digital camera results – yep, a big “DUH” from all of you who know what you’re talking about when you discuss cameras.

    I’ve been considering the D5200 with an additional flash for beginning my journey of truly learning about DSLR cameras/photography. However, after reading all of the helpful comments/answers above, I’m concerned the D5200 may prove disappointing when it comes to the flash.

    I want a camera with a VERY fast auto-focus and a manual focus. Also, I want to use an external flash (I’m never satisfied with the results of pop-up flashes). While the ability to take macro photos is not very important, I’d like to take crisp/clear portrait-type photos of people where the face fills the frame (or even just zoom in on the eyes). I also want to be able to quickly take crisp/clear photos using a telephoto lens whether it be indoor sports or outdoor at the lake.

    Is the D5200 the camera for me (a total novice who wants to learn) and will the flash abilities of the D5200 allow me to quickly take a beautifully crisp/clear picture while using a speedlight?

    Thank you

    1. Hi Ann,

      To start, the need for micro-focus adjustments is not very common, especially if you’re using relatively new lenses. I have an old Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 Micro lens, for example, from the 1990s, and although it works nicely on modern Nikon cameras, it does benefit from micro adjustments. I doubt that the modern VR version of the lens would, though.

      So, I wouldn’t worry too much about the D5200 in terms of focusing. It’s not likely to be a significant issue. Any of the cameras in question are going to be very fast focusing, but since this also depends on the motor in the lens, you can’t judge the camera alone… it’s a factor of the combination. They also all have manual focus.

      The issue of flash is a little more complicated.

      When you’re shooting in low light or in a studio (I’m talking about low light judged by the camera’s sensor, not the human eye), if the flash is providing all of the light that contributes to the exposure, then it doesn’t matter what shutter speed you use… your images will be super sharp, since the duration of the flash becomes the effective shutter speed… and that can be anywhere from 1/1000th to 1/20,000th sec. or faster.

      When you’re just using the flash for fill, or otherwise in daylight, you won’t be able to shoot at shutter speeds faster than 1/200th sec.  This is plenty fast for most work like portraits, but it won’t stop fast action.

      Finally… I wouldn’t worry about the ability to control off-camera flashes. There are lots of options for doing that with radio controllers, and they will give you much better range and reliability than the Nikon flash-controlled system. Phottix makes a popular option, and does does Pixel. Just remember to budget in that extra $100 to your plan.

      So, my advice remains… buy the D5200 unless you are pretty sure that you’ll need the ability to use high-speed sync for flash. (Basically, this just turns your flash head into a continuous light for a moment, rather than a flash. It’s still bright to the human eye, but it’s much less bright than a full-power flash). Use any money that you save to buy high quality lenses!

      – Matthew

  18. Hello Matthew:

    I currently have a Nikon D40 (it was the best I could do at the time) and realize that I need to “get with the program” if I want to improve the quality of my photographic images. I consider myself to be an intermediate-level amateur photographer.

    I am looking to purchase a new camera and was pondering the D7000. I enjoy close-up work so sharp images are critical for me. I don’t need all the bells and whistles of the D7100 (I don’t care about video capability, for example) but want more than the D5200. The D7000 seems like a perfect fit – do you agree? I plan to also purchase a Nikkor 105mm macro. You mentioned the Sigma 180mm f/2.8 macro. Is that comparable in quality to Nikon macro lenses?

    Is the difference in resolution between the two cameras (24 vs 16 mp) important to someone who doesn’t plan on printing posters? Just how important is higher resolution? Who would require that in a camera? Is more necessarily better?

    Lastly, I have heard people tell me that Canon cameras are as good if not better than Nikon. Can you suggest a Canon mid-range camera comparable to the D7000 or D7100?

    Many thanks for your great advice and thoughtful answers to all of our questions. David

    1. Hi David,

      The D5200 and D7000 are hard to compare; because the D5200 is so much newer, it matches the AF system in the D7000 and has a higher resolution sensor, as you know. It’s also a better sensor in terms of signal to noise ratio, so it’s going to be a little bit better at high ISO. But, being a higher-level camera in its time, the D7000 has the higher build quality, superior flash features, superior weather sealing, micro-focus adjustments, etc. Still, I’d have a hard time choosing the D7000 at this point.

      Higher resolution affects sharpness very minimally at mid-large print sizes; you probably would not notice a difference if you print 8×10 and use the full frame. A 24megapixel sensor will be sharper if you print at 13 x 19, though… or more importantly, if you print smaller but crop your image significantly. With modern sensors, you usually get less noise from a higher resolution sensor when reduced to a comparable size as a lower resolution sensor.

      Canon’s 7D was a somewhat better camera than the Nikon D7000, and the 60D was not quite as good… though it did have some advantages. However, Since that time, Nikon has released the D5200 and D7100, while Canon has not released anything new in the mid-range. There have been rumors for month that the Canon 70D will be announced soon, but I’m still waiting… and the 7D Mark II is also anticipated. On paper, anyway, Canon’s cameras in the mid-range are significantly lagging behind.

      The Sigma 180mm and 150mm macro lenses are excellent. I’d have to do side by side tests, but for all practical purposes, they are as sharp as Nikon’s lenses.

      Sorry for the delay… it’s been a busy weekend :)

      – Matthew

      1. Matthew:

        Many thanks for the detailed, thoughtful reply to my message – you addressed all of my questions! I would not get that kind of attention from a camera salesman in a store.

        When using the “Which to buy?” guidelines at the end of your article, I answer “yes” to most of the features found in the D7100 compared to the D5200. The price difference is significant, but I do not want to compromise on image sharpness (I take close-ups) and like the micro-adjustment focusing capability of the D7100. At the same time, I am willing to bet that I would not be able to see any differences between these cameras.

        Bottomline: Your assistance has convinced me (1) not to consider a Canon mid-range camera at this time, (2) not to rule out the D5200 over the D7100/D7000 and (3) to consider a Sigma macro lens. Next step: Get these cameras in my hands and see how they feel and operate.

        Many thanks, Matthew. You are like having a personal camera consultant – its awesome!

        Best regards, David

  19. Thanks for this very clear review!

    I decided to purchase the D5200 simply because of its size (I have very small hands and my Canon 5D Mark II has been really hard on my hands). I need a zoom for walk around shooting and something for portraits. My initial pick (based on price and reviews) was the 18-105mm 3.5/5.6, 85mm 1.8G, & 50mm 1.8G. I tested the 18-105 but suspect I got a bad one (it was a refurb.) as all shots are out of focus. I’m wondering now if I should get something else. I’ve been scouring the internet trying to figure out what the sharpest lenses are to go with the 5200. Do you have any advice?

    Thanks!

    1. Hi Elizabeth,

      Unfortunately, the best lenses are also the most expensive lenses… but that’s probably no surprise. Nikon has published a list of lenses that they recommend for use with the D800 and D800e, their highest resolution full-frame cameras… but the D5200 has a sensor with even higher pixel density.

      I’ve re-published that list, with a few additions, here on my page “Best Nikon Lenses for High Resolution Sensors“. It’s still a work in progress, though.

      – Matthew

      1. Thanks for that great link Matthew, very helpful!

        After spending hours reviewing lens tests & looking at sample photos I ended up purchased the 16-85mm 3.5-5.6G IF-ED VR. According to photozone it tests better than the 16-35, particularly at the 35mm end. It offers a greater range and VR II. The 16-85 is reported to be sharper and is half the price of the 16-35. DXO gives the two lenses very similar ratings on DX sensors but the problem I have with DXO’s ratings is that they don’t break down these numbers for the different focul lengths and apertures like photozone. For this reason and the fact that I keep reading photographers who’s actual shooting experience with a lens differs from the DXO ratings I end up questioning the value of their reports.

        Anyway, this gives me a good walk around range. I’ve been using the Canon 24-105 (on full frame), so it’s comparable. Then I’ll have the two nice primes. The list you posted will be helpful in determining my future ‘wish list’.

        1. Good choice, Elizabeth! I use the NIkkor 16-85 on my D5200 with good results. For sample images, please check out my website. The Aruba images were shot mostly with the 16-35 (with a B+W UV mrc filter to protect the front element), and still requiring only minor tweaking in post.
          Have fun! Steve

  20. I want to buy a camera that will work for me for while. I finally buying a dslr. I really like the idea of water proofing. I would like a durable camera. Not that abuse my prior cameras but it appears DLSR requires more matinance than toerhe types of cameras. I have no lenses
    I’m thinking to get either canon 60d with I think 18-200mm Letnse
    or possibly a Nikon d7100 with the same type of lense
    As you know canon 60d is less expensive.
    Is weather sealing create better sealed camera?
    If nikon d5200 was weather sealed i was going to buy the bundle with 2 lenses. I forgot the specifications.
    The more I read the more confused I get….
    I am really interested in photography. I finally am able to spend the money on a nice camera to pursue. I am not sure which features are really worth the money.
    I just want a camera that take good pictures and I can use long time
    It not high mataince

    1. Hi S-

      The Canon 60D and Nikon D7100 have some weather sealing, so if you accidentally get caught in the rain, there’s less likely to be damage. However, most lenses are NOT weather sealed, and they are likely to get damaged by rain… so having a weather sealed body won’t really give you much more flexibility for shooting unless you specifically search out matching lenses. If you’re worried about rain, you’re better off buying a rain cover for your camera and lens.

      I do not recommend buying 18-200 zoom lenses, or any other All-in-one type lenses. They all have have poor image quality. Canon’s 18-135mm STM (not USM) lens is about as far as I’d go, and Nikon’s 18-105. The sensors in these cameras have higher resolution than the lenses, usually, so to get the most out of the sensor, you have to use the best lenses.

      That said, they ALL produce excellent images. My advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and then buy the best lenses you can afford. So, for you, I’d recommend the Nikon D5200 with a set of high quality lenses… unless you’re sure that you’ll need more flash functionality, then go with the D7100.

      – Matthew

  21. Hi Matt,

    The Nikon D5200 can´t use a external flash for High Speed sync? Example like yougnuo yn-568EX?

    1. Hi Miguel,

      That’s correct; the D5200 does not support Auto FP flash (ie, high-speed sync). Why that would be the case, I don’t know… this seems like it should be a property of the flash, mostly… but I suppose it also is a matter of the iTTL metering. Obviously, it’s also a way for Nikon to differentiate their more expensive cameras. The Nikon D7100, of course, does support Auto FP mode.

      – Matthew

  22. Hello, Mattew!
    Very informative article.
    I’m new to the DSLR World. :-)
    A couple of months ago I’ve bought a Nikon D5200 with AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR. My choice was actually between D5200 and D7100. I’ve made my decision for D5200 only ’cause at that moment I couldn’t wait any longer until the start of sales of D7100. And now, when D7100 is available for purchase I start to realize that I’m a bit disappointed with my choice (weather proof, better flash, built-in focus). The main issue is that I’m planning to get some new lenses, but they don’t have the VR.
    What do you think how crucial is this point for taking high quality shots (without a tripod) with the camera that doesn’t have a built-in focus (D5200)?
    Or probably I just mixed up the functions of VR and autofocus. Does the built-in focus help to avoid tiny shakes of camera during shooting? Or it’s only intended for better focusing?
    The lenses of my choice are below. Please also recommend which of these would give me a better picture quality.
    • AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G
    • AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G
    • AF-S DX Micro Nikkor 40mm f/2.8G ED
    • Tokina AF 100mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro D macro
    • Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 SP Di macro
    I’m aware of the AF-S NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G Micro VR IF-ED, but it’s a bit expensive for me now.

    Thanks in advance,
    Sergey

    1. Hi Sergey,

      I wouldn’t worry about VR too much, actually. VR is not related to focus; it is simply for image stabilization… if your hands shake a little while you take the picture, it will help reduce the blur from that, but the focus is independent. VR and non-VR lenses will work the same on the D7100 and the D5200.

      And just so we’re clear… the D5200 DOES have autofocus, just not a focusing motor in the body. For most modern lenses, this will make no difference at all.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

       

      1. Thanks for your reply, Matthew.

        Now I started to read your other articles here on this site. Very informative and easy for comprehending.

        Again, talking about the lenses that could match my needs* best with the D5200, let me ask you, what would you get within the following choice:

        1) AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G (I read reviews that it’s one of the best portrait lense for it’s price)
        2) AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G
        3) Tokina AF 100mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro D macro
        4) Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 SP Di macro

        I’m not sure if these macro lenses work correctly and smoothly with the D5200 without a built-in auto-focus.

        * – My needs are: image quality, sharpness, nice bokeh.

        As I said before, I have a kit lens AF-S Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR.
        The reason I put on the list these two different purpose lenses (standard and macro) is that I’d like to have both advantages of each line. But at the moment I plan to buy only one of the list. Do you think I can get a nice portrait & landscape pictures with the macro lenses? Or maybe I should be more clear to myself first? :-)

        Thanks in advance for your reply.
        Sergey

        1. Hi Sergey,

          In general, Macro lenses are also excellent portrait lenses. The Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 Micro has long been considered one of the company’s best portrait lenses. With the smaller sensor in the D5200, you’ll get similar performance from the Nikkor 60mm Micro lens, which is also wonderfully sharp.

          So, I’d consider that lens first, but otherwise, any of the lenses in your list should be great portrait lenses. I’m not sure whether the Tokina and Tamron have focusing motors, but I think that they do.

          Good luck!

          – Matthew

  23. Hi, Matt,

    I am Kshitij and bought Nikon D5200 (with 18-105 KIT) about a month back (Its my first DSLR). Still trying to learn about it. I am very interested in shooting macro / birds and water. Can you please advise what lens should I get to shot macro which give me excellent picture quality.

    Thanks for you help in advance.

    Thanks,
    Kshitij

    1. Hello Kshitij,

      There are probably 3 or 4 good lens choices for shooting high quality macro work. The nice thing is, macro lenses are almost universally top-notch lenses when it comes to optical quality.  The more working distance you need from your subject, the more expensive they will be… so if you’re shooting live insects, for example, which run away if you get too close, you might want to spend more money on a lens that will let you shoot from a little further away.

      The three Nikon lenses are (from least to most expensive) the:

      Nikkor 40mm micro

      Nikkor 60mm micro

      Nikor 105mm micro

      and you could also consider the…

      Sigma 180mm f/2.8 Macro

      If you’re photographing something that doesn’t require the working space, shorter lenses will still give you great image quality. Of course, there will be a slightly different field of view for each of these lenses, too.

      – Matthew

  24. Hi Matt.
    I am using a new Nikon D5200, and am contemplating the D7100 for several reasons, but mainly the lack of the AA filter, with potential for sharper images from the same sensor. The question is how MUCH sharper?? Is this difference (plus the external flash synch, Commander mode, weather-sealing, button functionality, etc.), worth the extra $500? Thanks! Steve

    1. The difference in sharpness is very minimal, but under the right circumstances, it is visible. If you use a tripod and the best technique for reducing vibrations (ie, remote release, mirror up, etc), then you can tell that the D7100 is slightly sharper in the center of the image at the at the lens’s sharpest aperture, but not wide open or even stopped down beyond 3 stops or so. This is assuming a professional quality lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or larger. Even the best quality lenses don’t reach their maximum resolution wide open, and start to be degraded by diffraction after a few stops down.

      I have not done side-by-side lab tests myself, but I’ve seen a few at this point. Probably the best one was shot with  a 50mm f/1.4; the difference was visible at f/3.5, but not visible at f/2.8 and gone by f/5.6.

      I would not accept being so limited for such a minimal difference in sharpness; even when it is visible, it is not remarkable… it is merely extant.  It is not going to make a mediocre image a great image. I would buy the D7100, but not for it’s sharpness… though if I happened to get a little extra sharpness out of it now and then, I’d be happy with it.

      Now, whether those other features are important enough for you to spend the extra money is up to you :) My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that suits your needs and the best lenses you can afford. For me, the lack of flash functionality would rule out the D5200; it would not meet my needs… but it might meet yours.

      – Matthew

  25. Hello,

    I’m a student who’s owned a D90 for a few years. I bought it as I started out in photography and it’s now been 3 years. I’m looking to upgrade but am unsure as to which camera to get, the D7100 or the D5200. from what I can tell here there doesn;t seem to be a whole lot of difference other than the build quality of the D7100 and the extra dial but at twice the cost.

    Would you suggest going for the D5200 in the long run and saving my money for a new lens?

    Cheers.

    1. There are a few things that you should keep in mind:

      First, if you’ve been using the D90, remember that some lenses that work on the D90 are not supported by the D5100 (though most of the modern lenses would be).  If you have older “D” lenses for it, that require a focusing motor in the camera body, you’ll need to get the D7100.

      There is also a major difference if you’re going to be using flash photography; the lack of high-speed-sync and external flash control will surely be missed, if you use flash.

      That said, I always recommend buying the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses you can afford. If you don’t need the features of the D7100, then I’d certainly recommend saving the money for better lenses and buying the D5200.

      – Matthew

      1. I don’t currently own any older D lenses, all of my lenses have AF-S and I doubt I’ll ever go back to getting an older one again without.

        However I do use flash. I thought that the D90 had a top high speed sync of 1/200 the same as the D5200. As for the external flash controls I don’t quite understand what you mean, could you expand upon that? If you are speaking of the Auto FP does this mean that I can’t force higher shutter speeds with my flash…? I own an old SB-28 and would probably use it with the DSLR.

        Thanks again!

  26. Hi Matthew,

    Great comparison of the D5200 and D7100. I have been using a D50 for several years now and finally plan to upgrade. I am definitely an amateur photographer, but try to learn some things as I go. I mainly shoot outdoors, whether catching my pets in action, photographing scenic areas, or taking automotive pictures. I also like to get closeup shots of my pets and other animals. I will probably use video a lot as well, whether it is with my pets, kid, or car. I currently have the AF NIKKOR 28-80mm f3.3-f5.6 G and AF NIKKOR 70-300mm f4-f5.6 G lenses. Are either of these lenses compatible with the two cameras? Which camera do you think would be best suited for me and should I try different lenses? Also, which photo editing software would you recommend? Thanks!

    John

    1. Hi John,

      Sorry for the delay; your comments were pushed off the page by newer ones before I had a chance to see them :)

      Anyway, both of your lenses will work on the D7100 but not on the D5200. I don’t have a whole lot of experience with these particular lenses, but optics have improved tremendously over the last decade, so you might start thinking about finding some newer lenses anyway. The VR 18-105 kit lens is actually quite good, but lens choice is a big issue :)

      For editing, I always use Adobe Photoshop CS6, and to a lesser extent, Adobe Lightroom. There are other good options (other than Lightroom) for image management, but there’s nothing that can really compare with Photoshop. It’s expensive, but there are some good subscription options for the Creative Cloud, now.

  27. HI Matthew,

    I’m considering upgrading from a Nikon D3100 to either the D5200 or D7100. I’m an amateur, not close to a professional. I use the camera a lot for family and travel photography. I take a lot pictures at my son’s hockey games where the lighting conditions are poor and the action is fast. So I need a camera that will do a good job in those conditions. Is there a difference between the D5200 vs. D7100 in those low light fast action conditions?
    Also my wife will be using the camera and she doesn’t use any manual settings. She would use strictly auto/preset settings. Would either camera be easier for her to use?

    Which camera would you recommend?

    Thanks

  28. Hi, I am currently shopping for a new camera, looking to move up from my d3100, and am having a tough time deciding between the d5200 and the d7100. While I am not new to the dslr world, I would not consider myself to be an advanced photographer in any way, so a lot of the cool features of the d7100 might be lost on me. With that being said, I do plan on using this next camera for landscape shooting, which will require me to carry it to many different places while hiking in rough terrain and potentially cruddy weather. In that case would it be worth getting the camera with weather sealing vs. one without? Any advice you could offer would be appreciated.

    1. Hi Derek,

      If you don’t shoot with flash, I think that the D5200 is a good choice for you, despite your concerns with the weather sealing. If you’re not going to be shooting events like weddings or sports in the rain (maybe even if you are), there are lots of options for keeping your camera safe and keeping your lenses dry (which can be a problem even if your body is weather sealed)… you can use a rain-fly on your camera (one of the cheap ones, or one of the Pro ones), or you can use a plastic bag.

      For decades, I’ve used plastic bodied cameras either as a main body or as a backup when working in some pretty rough conditions, and I’ve never managed to break one yet. Modern polycarbonate plastics are pretty tough (in some cases, it is bulletproof).  So, unless you know that you’re really hard on your equipment, I’d go with the Nikon D5200. A lighter body is an advantage when hiking, too. The weight from high quality lenses adds up pretty quickly, and I always say… buy the least expensive body that will meet your needs, and buy the best quality lenses you can afford.

      – Matthew

  29. Hi Matthew,

    Good article, it pretty much supports other reviews I’ve read.

    I’ve been considering the d7100 and recently read a review about the d7000 written by Thom Hogan in which he said

    “… don’t buy the D7000 for it’s resolution and then wimp out on lenses. You’ll achieve nothing that you couldn’t get on the 12mp cameras. If you’re going to invest in more pixels, you need to invest in good lenses”

    I couldn’t agree more however it leaves me in a bit of a dilemma when I think of the d7100. My question is in regards to my current selection of lenses, and whether they are “good enough” to take advantage of the new high-resolution 24.1 MP sensor in the d7100?

    Currently I have the following lenses and they have worked pretty well on my d90. I’m fairly certain that the primes I have will be fine, but I’m looking for some input about the zooms.

    Sigma AF 17-70 2.8-4.5 Macro HSM

    NIkkor 18-200 3.5-5.6

    Nikkor AF-S 35mm 1.8 G

    Nikkor 50mm 1.8 d

    Thanks for your input.

    rik

    1. Hi Rik,

      You’re right, the 50mm and 35mm should be good, as long as you don’t expect too much from them wide-open, where the borders will be soft even on an APS-C sensor. I have a Nikon 50mm f/1.4D, and it’s great. The 35mm G is probably even better, especially between f/2.8 and f/8.

      I also own a Nikkor 18-200, and it’s awful, even on my old D300. I haven’t used it in years, and really should just sell it to someone who doesn’t care about image quality.

      I’ve used the Canon version of the Sigma 17-70, and I guess that I’d say it’s fine… but not stellar. I think you’ll continue to get good image quality, but it won’t really make the most out of your new sensor.

      To get the most out of the sensor (if you want zooms), you’ll really have to spend the money on lenses like the Nikkor 70-200 f.4G VR or 70-200 f/2.8 II , or at the wider end, lenses like the 17-55 f/2.8 (maybe) or the amazing Nikkor 14-24 f/2.8. Perhaps the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. It’s always a little harder to get even performance across the frame at the wide end.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

  30. Hi Mathew,
    I currently have a D5000. Mainly shoot children & family portraits, some wildlife & landscapes. I have been looking at upgrading to the D5100, D5200, or maybe the D7000. Budget is a big factor. After reading your post and Q&A I’m leaning towards the D5200. Do you think I will see enough of an improvement in the D5200 or should I jump to the 7000 to see enough improvements to justify the purchase.

    Thanks.

    -Steven

    1. Hi Steven,

      If image quality is your main concern, then I would recommend the D5200 rather than the D7000; the D7100 would be the next option.

      From what you’ve said, it sounds like the D5200 would be a great choice for you, unless you plan on shooting with flash and would use high-speed-sync. If you shoot with natural light or don’t mind sticking below 1/200th sec. when using flash, then the D5200 will give you autofocus that matches the D7000 and image quality that exceeds it, and the price is pretty reasonable.

      – Matthew

  31. Hello Matthew,

    I am looking to buy a Nikon and was all set on the 5200 until I read this.

    My main use will be photographing my paintings. They are medium sized (biggest for now is around 100cm x 100cm) with some texture from collage and built-up paint surface. I would like to capture the texture without it casting a lot of shadows. And there are some problems with glare and reflections when I use oil paints or other higher-gloss media.

    Some research says I will do better with a macro lens. The one I am considering at the moment is the Tamron AF 90 mm F/2.8. I guess I will also need to get a tripod and a polarizing filter.

    With my current camera, a disaster, I get the best results at night, with two very amateurish lights at either side. I don’t know if a better camera will make daylight more workable.

    I am very much an amateur photographer, but want to make the highest quality photos possible, so that I can also sell prints of my paintings. I would love to learn to do this without having to depend on a professional.

    Given the above, would you recommend that I start with a 5200 or a 7100? The latter gets a bit pricey with the macro lens, but if it will make a huge difference in quality so that I end up being able to sell prints, I will consider it.

    Thanks,

    Charlotte

    1. Hi Charlotte,

      Doing copy work takes some technical skill, but it’s easy to learn and very satisfying to not have to rely on others, once you’ve got your system down.

      There would be some potential advantages to having the D7100 for this type of work, but they’re not going to make very significant differences. The D7100 does have lens micro-focus adjustments, but this is not a concern if you use live-view to focus the camera, which is common for copy work, since it also locks up the mirror. This bypasses the phase-detection autofocus system (which is what the micro-adjustments apply to) in favor of the contrast detect system.

      The D7100 might have a slight resolution advantage because of the lack of AA filter, but it might not even be visible, depending on a variety of factors, and it might introduce moire into your images. I don’t think this is a clear advantage for the D7100.

      The only thing that might make a difference is the flash. If you want to use off camera flash (which would be a REALLY good idea), controlled by your pop-up flash (which is just one of the options), then you’d need to use the D7100.

      The lens that you choose and the lighting that you use are going to make a much bigger difference than the camera body, and of course, how you use the camera. Using flash will allow you to control your colors easily and accurately.

      There will also be issues with color management. Make sure that you always shoot in RAW format (or RAW + JPG, if you are not familiar with working with RAW files, yet). Also, shoot a color reference like the Xrite Passport Color Checker, which will allow you to reproduce colors accurately.

      A polarizer is a good idea, and a tripod is essential. A macro lens might not be necessary (there are lots of good, sharp lenses that would have a sufficiently short focusing distance), but it might be helpful if you want to take some close-up shots of specific details, and since macro lenses are usually very sharp anyway, they’re a good idea.  The Tamron 90mm would be a good one, but the Nikon 40mm Micro should work really well for you too, and it’s significantly less expensive. Telephoto macro lenses are handy for photographing insects and stuff that is going to run away if you get too close… you probably won’t have that problem. :)

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

  32. Nice comparison sir! I jumped into the Nikon world with a D5200, a Nikkor 16-85 and a Nikkor 35. My main concern is image sharpness, coming from a Pentax K-5 and some wickedly sharp Pentax optics. I only found out post-purchase that the D5200 has no AF Adjustment or even any sharpness adjustment, which is a bit worrisome. In any case, I will be testing this Nikon kit very soon, to see if I get equal or (hopefully) even better sharpness and detail from my images, given the higher resolution sensor. If not, I may consider the D7100 instead. Thanks again, Steve

  33. I want the professional picture quality when I shoot elements indoors or even outdoors … Which one do you consider for me Matthew ?

    1. Unless you’re likely to get caught in the rain, indoor vs outdoors shouldn’t make much of a difference. I’d start with the Nikon D5200, unless you have a pressing reason to go with the D7100 that you haven’t mentioned :) My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford.

      – Matthew

  34. Hi Matthew,

    I am doing all my wife’s camera work for her business as a realtor so alot of interior shots with wide angle lens to post on Multiple Listing Service. I would use for nature photography as well. Narrowed it down to Nikon D5200 or the new D7100. Would pass on lens kit and buy Nikon 35mm f/1.8 for every day use and Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 for wide angle, Would add SB-400 flash to bounce some light off ceiling etc when doing interior shots. Kind of leaning towards the D7100 for the extra $400 over the D5200 as it is more durable and better use in elements outside. Would add tripod. What do you think?

    1. I think that you’re choosing almost exactly what I would. With the body, you really could go either way, but if you’re going to be shooting outdoors in the elements as well, then the D7100 is probably wise.

      I’m a huge fan of the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8… both the new and the old versions. Optically, the difference is minor, at best.

      The only difference I’d make would be with the Nikon 35mm f/1.8. The lens is great, for what it is… I just have never had much use for a 35mm; to me,  it’s not wide enough to be interesting, but it’s too wide for most portrait work (except environmental portraits, perhaps).  I’d probably go with a 50mm, 85mm, or the 28mm f/1.8. But that’s just a matter of personal preference… there’s no reason to suppose that you wouldn’t find the 35mm more useful than I do.

      I don’t know what other lenses you have, but you might also consider a wide to mid zoom, like the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8. The image quality is quite good, and you’d then have everything from 11-50mm covered. Just a thought :)

      – Matthew

    1. Hi Farbod,

      Without more information, it’s hard to know. My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that meets your needs and the best lenses you can afford.

      That being the case, I’d go with the Nikon D5200 body, unless you can come up with a pressing reason to go with the D7100. They’re both awesome cameras.

      – Matthew

  35. Hey Matt!
    Thanks for your article about D5200 and D7100. I currently have a D3100 + 18-105mm lens which I used intensively during a 7-month trip last year… I’m planning to ‘upgrade’ to a better DSLR because my D3100 is kinda worn out + have the impression of having reached its limits anyway + I’m planning a safari trip in Tanzania end of the year. I mainly take pictures when I travel, so weight is a concern… but I’m ready to reconsider that if a heavier body makes the difference!!
    First I have to invest in a better lens for the safari; probably Nikon AFS 55-300mm or Tamron 18-270mm because I cannot afford more, as I also want to buy a new body… which would have to be more powerful and durable! I was considering the D7100 because of its higher features (AF points, 1.3 crop mode, body material, shooting speed, 2SD slots…) but the price is a real pain point… Would D7000 be an option to consider too? Which body would you recommend between the 3 options?
    Also, do you have any advice on lenses?
    Thanks
    Emily

    1. Hi Emily,

      First, let me give you my standard advice, which is: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and the best lenses that you can afford :)

      The D7100 and D5200 are actually both pretty light. The D7100 is going to be about 225 grams heavier ( 0.5 lbs), but you’ll also get the weather sealing and durability that go along with that; it would be unfortunate to find yourself on the way to Tanzania, caught in the rain, and lose your camera for the trip. On the other hand, it sounds like you’ll have a back-up body.

      I would not recommend getting a Tamron 18-270, or any other All-in-One type zoom lens; unless convenience is really your paramount concern (and if that’s the case, why not go with something like a good point and shoot or compact?) Any time that you attempt to include that much zoom range in one lens (especially if it’s very wide angle and very telephoto), the lens engineers have to make compromises at EVERY zoom setting. You’ll be surprised at how much sharper your images will be if you use high quality optics instead. There are lots of good options, but it depends on whether you expect to need telephoto or wide angle lenses, or both.

      I’d very likely go with the Nikon D5200, body only. Then I’d buy a nice telephoto lens. If you can’t afford something like the new Nikkor EF-S 80-400 ED VR (how many amateurs can?), you should consider the Tamron 70-300 VC, which is optically as good as the Nikon equivalent, at a significantly lower price.

      1. Hi Matt,

        Thanks for your advice! Wow, isn’t there any options between the Nikkor EF-S 80-400 ED VR and the Tamron 70-300 VC in terms of price range?! I’ve tested the Nikkor 80-400 in the Galapagos last year; the Ecuadorian guide actually bought it for his job and lend it to me for about an hour, and honestly, that was awesome!! But… I can’t definitively afford that one, I’m just an amateur after all, so the Tamron sounds like a good option!

        In terms of body, as I’m a heavy traveler, I’m afraid that the D5200 is too fragile with its plastic structure. My D3100 had some “heart attacks” under the rain last year; basically it could still take pictures but the screen and buttons in the back would not respond during a whole day! It was like taking pictures with a traditional camera again. That was a good training but I would definitively prefer not face this stressing situation again. So if the D7100 can better handle outdoor activities, I’ll definitively pay the extra $400!

        1. Hey Emily,

          There are some options in between the Tamron and the 80-400; I just mentioned the Tamron because it was in the same price range as the 18-270 that you mentioned.

          The Nikon VR version of their 70-300 is a good lens, but not any sharper than the Tamron. Actually, the old Sigma AF 100-300mm f/4 EX DG HSM APO was an AWESOME lens, but I think that it’s been discontinued.  The sigma 50-500 and the like are not such great lenses, unfortunately.

          Of course, Nikon makes a 300mm f/4 that is good, but a bit expensive (and no zoom) and a 70-200 f/4 thats good, but doesn’t give you the reach.

          I guess I can’t think of a whole lot of good, intermediate priced lenses :)

          Good luck!

          – Matthew

  36. Hi Matt,
    According to this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEejCOqccC0
    there are some issues with the aperture settings in live view and video mode for D7100. And it is a hardware thing so it cant be fixed by a firmware update.Do you think that would be much a problem? Do D5200 and all other entry level Nikon DSLR cameras have this issue?

    Thanks

    1. I think it would be a little annoying, yes. Maybe more than a little. The issue is the same on the D5200 and the D7100. On the other hand, you’re only going to be using live-view in situations where you have a little extra time to compose and make some adjustments… it’s not something you’re generally going to be using for shooting action with. I don’t shoot a whole lot of video, so I’m not sure how much this would bug me…. and I shoot video with Canon anyway. The D800 and D4 do not have this issue.

      – Matt

  37. Hi Luis,

    If you have manual focus lenses, you’d be able to use them on either camera with manual focus, but they will always be manual focus lenses. The D7100 will also be able to focus with older Nikon AF “D” series lenses.

    I actually don’t know about IR capture on these particular cameras. Most digital cameras will capture SOME IR or UV, but they do generally have a filter that blocks most of it. The most common thing to do, for IR, is to convert your old SLR to be used for IR by removing the internal IR/UV filter. This website has instructions on how to do that for a variety of older Nikons.

    – Matthew

    1. Thanks, Matt;
      So, there would not be any advantage for the D7100 on the use of manual lenses, then…
      I liked the articulated lcd screen of the D5200… but there are risks of breaking it, isn’t?
      Luis

      1. It depends on how hard you are on your equipment. I’m moderately hard on my cameras, and I’ve never had any scares about breaking off the LCD on my 60D… but it is, obviously more of a risk than a fixed LCD.

        – Matt

  38. Hi, Matt;
    Very good comments! I have some old manual lenses that I would like to use with one of these two DSLRs. Decause D7100 has a motor built in, would it be an advantage for me?
    Also I wonder if one can have infrared captured with any of those cameras… That would be nice for me, too…
    Do they filter for visible spectrum only?
    Thanks!
    Luis

  39. Hi Matthew! I want to buy the camare for photography and video. 700D and D5200 which one should to buy ? Thank for your recommence.

    1. Hmm. I’d probably lean towards the D5200, but I’d need more information about what kind of photography you’re doing to give you a useful opinion.

      – Matthew

  40. Hi Matt,
    I am a newbie to DSLR cameras.I found your post and all the comments here really helpful.But still, I am having hard time deciding over Canon T5i vs Nikon D5200 for my first camera in that price range. I am getting slightly inclined towards Canon only because,as is evident from the pictures you see in all photography magazines and flickr, there are more number of EOS 5D Mark3 and EOS 70D users. so I think I will be able to borrow some good Canon lenses from friends who have 5D Mark3. Could you please suggest if I should prefer T5i over D5200 for this reason in spite of D5200 having better features?

    Thanks again.

    1. Hi ARG,

      There is no question that it is important to take into consideration the entire camera system when you’re getting started… not just the body. The lenses (primarily… you’ll end up spending more on lenses than bodies) and flash systems are important considerations.

      Canon and Nikon have roughly equivalent shares of the SLR market. Some years Canon comes out ahead, some years Nikon does. I think the global market share is less important than Canon’s market share among your friends :) Being able to trade equipment among friends seems like reasonable grounds to lean towards one system or another, as long as you’re also making sure that you’re getting a body that suits your needs.

      I’m glad to see that the T5i is now shipping (well, tomorrow), although the differences between it and the T4i are minor.

      – Matthew

      1. Thanks a lot Matt for the quick Reply. Just want to make sure,can I use all the high end Canon lenses used with 5DMark3 and EOS 7D also with Rebel T5i? I assume ‘yes’ because that’s the only reason I would prefer T5i

        1. Hey ARG,

          Yes, the T5i is compatible with all Canon AF lenses, old and new. Canon adopted a good AF system early on, and has been able to stick with it.

          Nikon has changed their autofocus system over the years, so the D5200 is only fully compatible with newer AF Nikkor lenses (that don’t require a focusing motor in the camera body). All Nikon F mount lenses (manual focus included) will fit on the body, though.

          – Matthew

  41. Hi Matthew,

    I am looking for a camera that does both photos and video. I also like to postprocess photos to some extent.
    can you provide your thoughts on D5200 in comparision to NEX-6. On paper the nex-6 features looks more than D5200 but I do not want to go for the extra feature compromising the quality. I normally find Nikon D5100/D5200 picture rich and bright in daylight compared NEX. Is this due to lens or is it something we can get by tweaking whitebalance. I am fine with the size of a DSLR. How is D5200 videos in comparision with Nex-6. If NEX-6 is tad better due to the manual controls in video, would it be compromising on the photo quality .

    Thanks
    Shiv

    1. Hi Shiv,

      When I had a chance to preview the Sony NEX-6 last fall, it was not officially released yet, and I was not allowed to keep any images or video from it, and comparisons of image quality are very hard to make without direct comparison.

      The brightness and vibrance of the images produced by a camera can easily be altered, regardless of the camera… particularly if you shoot RAW files. If you shoot jpgs, you’re somewhat limited by the capabilities of the processor in the camera, but even then, there’s much that can be done in post, as long as you’re willing to put the time into it. I would not judge a camera based on the jpgs that it produces, especially since so many camera settings can be altered to change their appearance.

      From a standpoint of autofocus capabilities for photos, and from sensor characteristics, I would expect the images from the D5200 to be significantly better than those produced by the NEX-6, all things considered.

      When it comes to video… I just don’t do much with video. I’m afraid I’m not qualified to give you any advice here, especially when it comes to the NEX-6. Sorry I can’t be more help.

      – Matthew

  42. Reviewer forgot an important difference between the D5200 and D7100; manual white balance setting. D5200 only has auto settings and a photo reference mode.

    1. Hi Jarot,

      Thanks for mentioning this. With the D5200, you can’t enter the specific color temperature manually, but you can set it manually by using a reference card (neutral grey or white card), or by using another preset. If you want to shoot at a specific color temperature, you’ll have to adjust the RAW image in Lightroom or ACR.

      The D7100 does let you choose a specific color temperature in camera, though, from 2500K to 10000K.

      It should be noted that the D7100 also has a “spot white balance” feature, which allows you to select an area and take a reading from live-view mode, which is handy.

      – Matthew

  43. hi thanks for the review Matthew. I have a d3100, recently bought an Olympus OM-D, which I thought would be great, but found the picture quality to be inferior, so going away mid year and want to take best pics I can, so looking at the d5200. I would assume the d5200 is a more advanced camera, not just the mp count. I find both cameras poor at video, but love my Sony cx350. When shutter life dies, is it repairable or through camera away

    1. Hi Wayne,

      My understanding is that for most SLRs, when the shutter module goes bad, it can be replaced by a qualified technician, though by that time, it may make more sense to buy a new camera, since it will cost a several hundred dollars to replace. I’ve never had a shutter module die; only aperture modules and mode dials.

      The D5200 would be a great choice, and of course, you’ll be able to use any lenses that you have for your D3100, so you only need to buy the body.

      – Matthew

      1. thanks for the input, i’m getting a d5200 with wifi adapter, from ryda, and will have 2 year au warranty as its not a grey import

  44. Thank you Matt. I am still trying to figure out if the D5200 or Canon T4i is better for me. I want it to take lots of sporting event pictures. Like volleyball and basketball games. I am new to DSLR cameras so I am needing help. Also, could you recommend a telephoto lens for me. I appreciate any assistance.

    1. Hi Kevin,

      They’re both great cameras, but if I were going to choose with no prejudice for one brand or the other, I’d probably go with the Nikon D5200, unless you are planning on using flash for shooting sports; high-speed sync can be very useful for that, and the Nikon can’t do it. However, if you’re planning on using natural light, this won’t be a concern.

      If you do go with the D5200, you’ll also want a telephoto lens that has a moderately large aperture for shooting sports. Ideally, you’d want an f/2.8, but the 70-200 f/2.8 VR is pretty expensive. The f/4 version of the lens (the 70-200 f/4 VR) costs about half of that, though.

      If $1300 is still out of your range, you could consider the old Tamron version of the f/2.8. It’s great, optically, but the focusing motor is a little slower.

      – Matthew

  45. Great review!
    All is clear and simple. Thanks. By the way, I bought the D5200 before the D7100 release date. But still keep reading different reviews to understand if I made the right choice. I hope I was right, time will show.

    1. Glad you found it useful. We might start to see the price go down in 6 months, although Nikon has been having some financial troubles… they may offer some rebates now and then, too.

  46. Hi,
    Mr. Gore, I really appreciate your article; however, while searching on the net for the this camera, a site said that this camera has an issue, bad sharpness. It appears that even with a prime lens, not set on max aperture, the camera barely reaches the level of sharpness of a Sony NEX-5N with a kit lens. Will that affect the quality much? Keep in mind that I might buy some decent glass in the future.
    Thank you

    1. Hello Saood,

      Some D5200 users are experiencing this, in some situations. It appears that it’s probably related to mirror vibrations, though it’s not certain yet. When Live-View is used, the camera produces excellently sharp images, so it’s not a problem with the sensor. This was also a common issue with the Nikon D7000, and is currently reported with the D800. I have not heard similar reports from the D7100 yet. I have not done any testing at this level.

      Other users are not having any problems with sharpness.

      I’ll let you know if I hear about any resolution, or further information more generally.

      – Matthew

  47. Thanks a lot for to informative article. I’m upgrading from D90 and am having this exact dilemma. I really want to get into video work, would you say the D7100 is worth the extra money for this? I know it has a higher res screen which would be useful for fine tuning the focus, but then again the tilting LCD on the D5200 could come in useful. it appears hey bkth shoot same resolution. Also, I’m worried I may miss the Led screen on the top of the camera (as on the D90). Do you think this is the kind of thing I’d just get used to? Thanks!

  48. Hi matthew,

    I am new to this site from India, all day long I have been reading your replies to the members who had commented on your posts and be to frank I am really impressed with your knowledge and patient endurance. And the details that you divulged were really useful for an amateur photographer like me. I have never signed up for any website or anything but I have signed up for this site. Just for you and your way of helping those who really find it hard to decide. Nice work, keep up.. best wishes

  49. Hi Matt,

    Can you compare d600 with d7100.I know that d600 is an AF disaster from nikon (all af points are in center) and now i am assuming that since d7100 has 51 af poins, output will me more sharper than d600 is that true?

  50. Do you have any sample images to compare the 2? Also have you noticed any of the moire effects in d7100 after playing around with it for a bit?

  51. great review. thanks a lot. in terms of photo quality (in most regular situation – family, trips) do you notice a real difference between d7100 to d5200? or a difference that worth the extra $?

    1. Hi Nate,

      For casual shooting, I would not expect any significant difference in image quality between the D7100 and the D5200. In some instances, when you use high quality lenses and a tripod, you might be able to tell that the D7100 is a little sharper, but even that will only be at high magnification; you won’t see a difference when viewing images at normal size on a monitor or standard sized prints.

      – Matthew

      1. I read your opinion that Nikon at this level is better than T4i. same goes with the T5i? I will use the dslr mostly for still picture. what’s your take?

        another last question…what lenses do you recommend to buy with d5200 (portrait and general use)? thanks…

        1. The D5200 does have a better sensor and better autofocus system than the T4i (the T5i is the same camera as the T4i, just different firmware in it). However, the T4i/T5i is capable of high-speed sync and external flash control, unlike the D5200. If you are going to use those things, you might consider a Canon.

          For portraits, I recommend an 85mm f/1.8 lens, or a 50mm f/1.8, which is quite a bit less expensive.

          For general shooting, it depends on what you usually shoot. The Nikon 18-105 is a pretty good all-around lens, but I prefer something with a larger aperture, like the Sigma 17-50mm. Others might prefer a lens that includes more telephoto.

          – Matthew

  52. Thank you. This review was very helpful to compare these. I will be buying a Nikon SLR in the near future and was looking at both of these. Now I have a better idea on how they compare.

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