Canon 5D Mark III - Light and Matter

The Waiting is Over: Canon 5D Mark III Announced

Following years of anticipation, the Canon EOS 5D Mark III was officially unveiled  today, coinciding with the 25th Anniversary of the launch of the EOS Camera System. Surprisingly, Canon has positioned the Mark III as an additional member of the line rather than as a replacement for the Mark II.

When the 5D Mark II was announced nearly four years ago, it seemed to be an almost perfect camera: high resolution, great image quality,  excellent low-light capabilities, the best DSLR-video to date, and it was relatively inexpensive compared to the 1Ds Mark III which housed the same sensor. It did have a few of drawbacks, though… mostly speed related. It only shot about 3 frames per second, it’s maximum flash sync speed was oddly 1/200th sec rather than 1/250th, and its autofocus system was essentially the same as that found in the entry-level Rebel line, with only one cross-type sensor and 9 overall. Additionally, some users reported problems with the weather sealing (notably, in Antarctica).

Canon 5d Mark III with Battery Grip
Matthew Gore | Light And Matter

The 5D Mark III has not only addressed the problems, but built on the strengths of its predecessor. The Mark III carries the same top-notch auto-focus system as the 1D X, with 61 AF point, 41 of them cross-type. With the new Digic 5+ processor, the 5D Mark III has doubled the frame-rate of the Mark II, now shooting up to 6 fps, even in RAW format. Canon also improved the weather sealing and gaskets, placing it just below (but not on par with) the 1D X in terms of reliability in adverse conditions.

Oddly enough, while Canon does claim improved reliability in the shutter module and a life-span of 150,000 shots, Canon did not see fit to improve the sync speed: the Mark III still syncs at a maximum of 1/200th sec. before high-speed sync (with its dramatic power loss) is required.

Improving on the Mark II, the Mark III utilizes a new 22.3 Megapixel sensor with improved resolution and low-light performance, with a native top ISO range of 25600, expandable to 102,400 (H2). The camera’s dual card slots hold an SD and a Compact Flash, as has become popular, and video functionality has been improved to match the Canon 1D X, with a choice of h264 recording formats and automatic splitting of files at 4G to sidestep video length limits.

Along with the 5D Mark III, Canon announced a new flagship Speedlite, the 600EX-RT, with incorporated radio-triggering to replace the problematic IR system currently in use. A hot-shoe mounted radio control-module, the ST-E3-RT, was also released, ablet o control up to 15 flash units in 5 groups. The range of operation is not up to PocketWizard standards, but at 100 feet (30 meters), it’s still a dramatic improvement over the pre-flash system currently in use, and it doesn’t require line-of-sight with the flashes.

The 5D Mark III is expected to be on store shelves by the end of the month (March 2012) at a cost of $3500. The Speedlite 600EX-RT and ST-E3-RT transmitter are also expected this month, at $630 and $470. New wireless file-transmitter, and GPS unit, and battery grips will be available later in the Spring.

Canon 5D Mark III with 600EX-RT Flash and Transmitter
Matthew Gore | Light And Matter

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  1. HI, I am planing from upgrading my camera to the new 5D mk III and I have a question. I didn’t understand for sure and thats why I ask you. For me it would be very important to be able to High Speed Sync and that’s why I thought buying instead of two 600 EX and a ST E3, a Pocket Wizard set for my 580 EX IIs.
    Here is my question: If I buy two 600 EX and a RT E3 transmitter will I be able HSS? For example will my flash sync at 1/4000 or 1/8000 only with a 600EX and a ST E3?
    Thank you:)!

    1. Hi Nathan,

      With the 5D Mark III, the 600EX radio system will have full HSS capabilities, though Canon warns that it may not function on some older cameras. Some pre-release reviewers have tested the HSS system successfully with the Mark II, also, and at a range of 100 meters.

      As you may already know, you can get radio triggered HSS (and at longer range) with other triggering systems. RadioPopper PX is popular for that purpose.

      – Matthew

      1. Thank you the fast reply Matthew!
        I want to get this system because its not 3rd party and it very easy to use.
        So if I have 2 600EXes and one is mounted on the 5D mk III and one in a tripod I have HSS or I still have to buy a ST E3 transmitter? Or is in the 5D mk III a radio trigger that triggers flashes? (I know this is unlikely because it would be no use for the transmitter, but it would be sick!)

        Have a nice day!

        1. Unfortunately, there’s no built-in radio trigger in the 5D Mark III… I was hoping that there might be, but I guess that was a bit too much to ask. I wouldn’t be surprised if future cameras do, though.

          The 600EX can be used as a radio Master Unit, controlling other off-camera flashes, if you want to use it that way, so the separate control module isn’t strictly necessary, but it makes a lot more sense to me to use the E3, and get both of those expensive flashes off of the camera.

  2. I currently shoot a 5D with the canon 24-105 and am wanting to upgrade to either the canon Mll or Mlll. I”m debating whether the more than$1000 difference is worth it. I’m mainly doing landscapes and available light. Flash synch is not an issue, nor video capability. The main question is, will the Mlll have substantially better color noise control at ISOs of 1200-2600?
    Any ideas based on pre release info.?
    Thanks for any suggestions.
    Alan Zimmerman

    1. Hi Alan,

      I’m actually writing an article on that subject exactly, right now… it should be published in a couple of days, if I ever get my server problems sorted out :) The Mark II is already pretty good at ISO 1600 or so, but the Mark III should be noticeably better, though I’m not sure whether it will be $1300 better (the price of the Mark II has dropped). I’ll see what I can do about posting some examples with the article.

      – Matthew

      1. When you write your review of the Canon 5D Mlll, it will be good to include examples which allow one to see discern-able differences in the DIGI 5 chip as well as discern=able differences in the ISOs above 1600. If these comparisons are the Mll vs Mlll it will help to decide if the new one is indeed worth $1300 ore.
        Looking forward to your review.
        Alan Zimmerman

  3. I have a dumb question. I guess I am doing something wrong. I was looking at all those autofocus points on this camera and I must be missing something. I have a Canon Rebel and when I focus it, I use one spot in the middle. I focus it, then while holding down the shooting button I move the viewfinder to where I want it. Anytime I try to use all the autofocus points (where you don’t have one point in the middle, but instead have a “bracket”) I end up with poorly focused shots. Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong? When should I use the “bracket” and all the points and when should I not? Thanks.

    1. Hi Ed,

      I’m not positive about which of the Rebel models you’re talking about, but I can speak generally on the phenomenon. It doesn’t sound like you’re doing anything that’s obviously wrong; when you set the camera to automatically select a focusing point, it’s simply a risk that it will choose the wrong one. In general, it will choose the one that is closest or highest contrast or some combination of the two, but sometime it will pick the background instead, or an object that’s near the intended subject.

      Some cameras are better than others, but many of us end up selecting the center point (or one of the the other points) and using that to focus, and then either recompose or crop.

      Sorry I can’t be of more help.

      1. Thank you for the reply. So another dumb question. If a lot of people only choose a single point in the center to focus with them recompose, what is the advantage of spending the extra money on a 61 point autofocus? That makes the 5d mark 2 more appealing to me since the autofocus changes seem to be the biggest thing they did. What would be examples of scenarios when you would leave the autofocus to pick for itself with all 61 points instead of just choosing a center focus point and using it? I guess I just don’t understand what all the fuss is about 61 points vs 31 vs 9 if most people only use one anyway. Sorry for being so confused and asking dumb questions. I just don’t understand what makes this better than a 9 point system and I don’t get all the cross types vs others and all that.

        1. I think that the issue there is that sometimes it makes more sense not to re-compose, but to choose an off-center focusing point. This is especially critical when shooting with a very large aperture lens (f/1.2 or f/1.4), where the depth of field is so shallow and the focus so critical that if you try to recompose, you’re focal point will not be accurate. In those cases, it’s very helpful to be able to choose a point that’s exactly where you want it. And of course, if you’re using a tripod and can’t easily recompose, it’s very important to be able to pick the right spot to focus.

          As for cross vs standard focusing points, this is how it works:  basically, an AF point focuses by detecting a line in the scene. Suppose it’s a vertical line. When it’s out of focus, the top half of the line will be shifted to the left, and the bottom part of the line will be shifted to the right, and as the lens turns travels in the right direction, those lines will converge together until they’re a single, sharp line (in-phase). If you’ve used an old manual focus camera with a split-screen focuser, this should be easy to picture.

          A standard focusing point will only be able to do this for lines running one direction… either horizontal or vertical, but not both.

          A Cross-Type can do it for both, so it’s essentially twice was likely to be able to focus on something in the scene.

          1. Thank you Matthew for the clarification. I get it now. I do have a 1.4 lens. I will remember what you said about no recomposing with that. Would you not recompose at 2.8 either? As a rule do YOU shift the focus point rather then recompose when the spot falls where you need it? I don’t have a tripod. I read an article by this guy named Rockwell that is supposed to be a great photographer and he claimed digital cameras don’t need them, so I followed his advice. I’ve been away from photography for a long time. My last real camera was a Pentax from the mid 90’s. I have grandkids now and am getting back into it.

            1. Do yourself a favor and ignore everything that Ken Rockwell says. It’s not all wrong, but so much of it is that you’d spend more time figuring out what’s what than just getting your information from a reliable source to begin with :)

              It depends on what your expected results are, of course. If you’re shooting pictures for printing small snapshots or for looking at on your computer, then having the sharpest image quality isn’t that critical. If you’re expecting to print large photos, crop in quite a bit, or view your images zoomed in on your screen, then a tripod is just as important as it ever was… and that is especially true if you’re doing commercial photography, landscape photography, macro photography, or architectural photography.

              Anyway, I usually don’t recompose anymore because I have cameras with a sufficient number of focusing points that it’s easier for me to choose a new AF point, but I used to with my film cameras, and didn’t have a problem with f/2.8 lenses, but I did with larger apertures.

              1. Thank you for that advice, When I read that he was moving his family out to sea to live on a boat so he could avoid paying CA taxes, I should have put two and two together.
                I’ll practice not recomposing, thanks again.

  4. Looks like a great piece of equipment. I will be very interested to see what they come out with in the 7D MKII or 8D area. Any idea on when we might see something there?

    1. Nothing solid. I suspect that we’ll see a Rebel T4i, a 70D, and an 8D/7D Mark II this year…. probably within the next couple of months, but that’s simply wild speculation at this point. I’m guessing that the Canon APS-C sensor will be new, for all of those cameras, with better noise handling.

      1. I hope so, the 5D Mk III is way out of my range. Although I am pretty happy with my T3i, I would like something faster, with better noise handling and more FPS ability for action/sports.

        Not sure I need a FF camera at this point.

        Thanks for the info!
        M

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