Canon T2i vs T3i Comparison
Equipment Reviews
·4 min read

Canon T3i vs T2i: Is the T3i Worth the Extra Cost?

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T3i vs T2i ?

The Canon Rebel T3i is already on store shelves, even though the Canon T2i was announced just a year ago. Not surprisingly, the technological differences between the two are minimal, at least at first glance: they use the same sensor, image processor, and autofocus system. Yet the T2i is still available, and at only $579 for the body, it is a tempting offering. But when comparing the T3i vs T2i, is the T3i worth the extra cost? For some people it will be; for others it will be a waste of money. Below, I’ll very briefly note the differences between the two cameras and explain who will benefit from the T3i and who will be just as happy with the T2i.

[UPDATE : The release of the Canon T4i changes this picture significantly. Also see my comparison of the T3i and T4i here. ]

The Similarities

Before making a big deal about the differences, it’s worth noting that these two cameras are mostly identical when it comes to standard photographic operation, and there is no difference in RAW image quality between the two. The table below shows the functional similarities.

[To see the whole T2i vs T3i table, click in the drop down box which currently displays “10” and select “50”],
Canon Rebel T3i / 600D Canon Rebel T2i / 550D
Canon Rebel T3i
Amazon Price (body) $699 (Until Sept 3) $639
Body Material Polycarbonate, Fiberglass Resin and Stainless Steel Polycarbonate, Fiberglass Resin and Stainless Steel
LCD Size / Resolution 3.0"
1,040,000 pixels		 3.0"
1,040,000 pixels
LCD Articulated? Yes No
Sensor Size 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C)
Crop Factor 1.6x 1.6x
Sensor Resolution 18 Megapixels 18 Megapixels
ISO Range 100-6400
+12800		 100-6400
+12800
Total AF Focus Points 9 9
Cross-Type AF Sensors 1 1
AF Light Level Range -.05 to +18 EV -.05 to +18 EV
Metering System 63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative
9% Center Weighted
4% Spot 		63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative
9% Center Weighted
4% Spot
Exposure Compensation 1/2 or 1/3 stops 1/2 or 1/3 stops
Max Frame Rate : RAW (14-bit) 3.7 3.7
Max Burst Duration RAW (at highest frame rate) 6 6
Max Burst Duration JPG (at highest frame rate) 34 34
Shutter Speed Range 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Maximum Flash Sync Shutter Speed (standard flash) 1/200th sec. 1/200th sec.
HD Video Resolutions 1080p, 720p 1080p, 720p
Available HD Video Frame Rates PAL and NTSC
24/25, 30 at 1080p
24/25, 30, 60 at 720p		 PAL and NTSC
24/25, 30 at 1080p
24/25, 30, 60 at 720p
Media Type SD / SDHC / SDXC SD / SDHC / SDXC
Weight 570g (including battery) 530g (with battery and SD card)
Viewfinder Coverage 95%
0.87x magnification		 95%
0.87x magnification
Built-In Wireless Strobe Control Yes No

.

What’s New in the T3i?

In-Camera Guide on T3i
The two lines of text at the top of the LCD here represent the new “In-Camera Guide”

From the outside, the only major difference is the rear LCD. The new T3i sports an articulated LCD, much like that found on the Canon 60D. To accommodate the new LCD, the body is slightly deeper, and the whole unit weighs a hair more. Canon has also made some minor ergonomic changes, such as adding additional rubberized padding to bottom of the front left side of the body for extra comfort and protection.

Internally, there are a few more significant differences, though. These include:

  • Native wireless control of off-camera flash (T2i requires accessory Canon ST-E2 module)
  • Digital zoom for 1080p video, while recording. (Since 1080p video is only 2 megapixels, this can crop down to the center of the sensor, effectively providing a 3x – 10x zoom)
  • Cropping mats for shooting in different aspect ratios
  • “Video Snapshots”, which are short video clips assembled in-camera into an extended video
  • In-Camera Guide, which provides information on the LCD panel that makes choosing alternative settings a little easier for beginners
  • An image-database driven full-auto mode (A+) and some additional in-camera processing options, the “Creative Filters”.
Rear View Comparison of Canon T2i and T3i
Rear view comparison of Canon T2i (left) vs T3i (right).

Who Should Buy the T2i?

If you have used a 35mm film camera in the past and are simply looking to get a digital camera to do the same things, the T2i is probably for you. It’s no accident that this has been the best selling SLR in the world for much of the past year. The new video features in the T3i won’t be of use if you’re only interested in taking photos, and the auto settings and In-Camera Guide will not be relevant for those who already have a firm handle on photographic theory. Some photographers have also expressed concern about the articulated LCD of the T3i and 60D collecting dust or breaking off; and for those who work in rugged conditions, this may also be worth considering.

Photographers (like myself) who use radio-triggers for their flashes also needn’t worry too much about the native wireless flash control on the T3i (the exception being Radiopopper shooters, some of which translate the optical trigger signals from flash control units into radio signals).

Rear view of T3i, articulated LCD
Canon T3i Rear View, LCD Open

On the other hand, you should go ahead and buy the T3i if you enjoy shooting video and think you’ll use the digital zoom. This is a feature that I’m actually very excited about myself; using a $100 50mm f1.8 lens as a 500mm f1.8 would open some incredible video opportunities (assuming that a stable tripod is available). Of course, you’re really only getting the same image quality that you’d get if you shot a photo and cropped in to the two megapixels in the center of the frame (1920 x 1080 pixel full HD video is about 2 megapixels), but on a low resolution display like HDTV, it could still look good.

Photographers who frequently shoot while holding their camera overhead will, of course, benefit from the T3i‘s swivel screen, as will video bloggers and others who want a handy video monitor while they’re in front of the camera. And, if you think that you’ll use the built in flash control, it would certainly save you money and hassle to buy the T3i.

If the automatic modes and In-Camera-Guide in the T3i are a deciding factor for you, though, you might alternatively consider a photography book, or better yet, enrollment in a photography course or seminar. Not only will it give you a better understanding of your camera and photographic theory, it may dramatically improve your photography in a dozen other ways.

I’ve tried to keep this comparison brief and simple, but please feel free to ask me any questions that you might have in the comment section below!

[UPDATE : The release of the Canon T4i changes this picture significantly. See my comparison of the T3i and T4i here. ]
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Matthew Gore
Editor-in-Chief
Matthew Gore is the Editor-in-Chief and Administrator of Light & Matter Media.
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220 Comments

  1. Hi Matthew,
    My wife takes pictures at my high school football games. The games start out in day light and end up at night. The day pictures turn out good but the night pictures come out blurry. We are looking to up grade. Which would you recommend the T2i or the T3i for sporting events. Also what lens would recommend. Thank You for your time.

    Reply

    1. Hi Kirk,

      The T3i and T2i are essentially equivalent in every way when it comes to taking sports photos (same sensor, processor, auto-focus system, metering system). The differences have to do with off-camera flash (triggered by the on-camera flash) and video, and some software differences, and of course, the swivel screen on the T3i, which you won’t use for sports. Unless those features make some difference for other things that you shoot, save some money and get the T2i for $499.

      Unfortunately, you’ll need it for a lens if you want to shoot sports at night. The lens is what is going to make the biggest difference for shooting when its dark (unless you want to use serious flash equipment instead). To stop action, you’ll need faster shutter speeds, and to get fast shutter speeds, you’ll need more light or high ISO. Your wife is probably already using the camera’s highest ISO that’s practical, so the only real option is letting in more light through the lens… and lenses that let in a lot of light are usually expensive.

      You can identify lenses that let in lots of light by their LOW f-number. f/2.8 is relatively low, whereas f/5.6 is relatively high. An f/2.8 lens lets in 4-times more light than an f/5.6 lens. So, if you’re looking at lenses such as the 55-250mm f/4-5.6, the f-number range means that when zoomed out to 55mm, the most light it will let in is f/4 (half as much as f/2.8), but when zoomed in to 250mm, it will only let in f/5.6 ( 1/4 as much as f/2.8).

      On the other hand, if you buy a 70-200 f/2.8 lens, you can use f/2.8 whether you’re zoomed to 70mm or 200mm.

      What’s the difference? Well.. suppose you’re shooting at f/5.6 and your shutter speed is 1/125th of a second. Any action in the photo would be blurry. If you used f/2.8 instead (in the same situation), the shutterspeed would be 1/500th, which would stop most motion.

      So, if you want to get a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, there are several available for Canon. Tamron makes a nice one for $769, which is optically good, and the focusing motor is sufficient though not the best. Sigma makes one with a better focusing motor for about $830, but the optics are not quite as sharp… they also make one with image stabilization for about $1400, though it’s useless for sports. Canon makes a great one for about $1200, fast and sharp, and an even better one for $2200 with image stabilization.

      There are cheaper lenses that let in more light, but they won’t have the telephoto range. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 (lets in more than twice as much light as an f/2.8 lens) costs about $110. The 85mm f/1.8 costs about $415. Unfortunately, neither are really sports lenses… they just don’t have the telephoto reach for football.

      Maybe more details than you were looking for… hope it helps :)

      Reply

  2. Mathew,

    If you were a beginner photographer and had to choose between starting out with a t3i with a bunch of good lenses or a 5d mark ii with one good lens, what would your choice be?

    Peter

    Reply

    1. That’s a good question. My advice has always been: buy the cheapest body that will fulfill your needs and then get the best lenses. Lenses will last decades… bodies are updated every couple of years.

      Also, for a beginner, an important part of developing a style and learning composition is exploring the different possibilities and perspectives provided by different lenses…. ultra wide angle, macro, fisheye, telephoto, large aperture, super telephoto, etc.

      This is not to say that a professional couldn’t work with a good body and single, high quality lens. Someone who has already developed a personal style and knows exactly what they want can afford to narrow their options. I wouldn’t recommend that for a beginner, though.

      So, I guess my answer is, I’d get an inexpensive body and the best lenses I could afford. Whether the body is a T3i or a 60D or 7D would depend on my own personal needs.

      Reply

        1. All EF lenses (full frame) can be used on any EOS camera. The EF-S lenses (crop frame) can only be used on crop-sensor cameras.

          This has led many beginners to want to buy only full-frame compatible lenses, on the assumption that in the future they will upgrade to full frame. Generally, I think that’s a mistake. There are some full frame lenses that should be purchased because they’re great lenses, but to get a good wide-angle lens for a crop camera, you really need a crop lens. The upside is that if you buy a high quality lens, it will retain its value if you decide to sell it later… but most people, if they end up getting a full frame camera, retain the old body as a backup, so it’s just as well to keep the lens anyway.

          – Matthew

          Reply

          1. I took your advice and bought a t3i with a bunch of lenses that you recommended. I had the camera for 5 days before this wednesday and was planning on using the camera mostly for food photography (had an earlier comment in this post about it) and partly as a toy for myself. Little did I know that the camera’s true job would be documenting the burning and eventual rebuilding of my restaurant.

            Thank you for your advice, I love the camera and the lenses that you have recommended and actually got some pretty good food shots with it. As soon as I’m rebuilt the camera will go back to it’s intended job of photographing my new menu. Here’s the link to my website were I’ll be documenting the rebuilding process, if you’d like to take a look at some of the pictures I’ve taken so far. http://www.deaddogsaloon.com/

            Peter Haentjens

            Reply

            1. Wow… what an ordeal. One of my uncles in Montana recently lost his building (he’s a dentist) to fire, and it was a bigger hassle than even he imaged. He did make it through and ended up with a beautiful new building, though.

              Thanks for sharing the link… good luck!

              Reply

  3. Greetings Matthew,
    I want to thank you very much on your easy to understand comparisons of the t3i vs t2i.
    No one has asked you about the video quality of these cameras that I have seen.

    To make a short story long : )
    Please bare with me.

    I went out to my sister’s ranch in Durango, 2 of us took the same picture,
    (both cameras on auto-focus) of a beautiful pink sky, snow covered mountains
    and pine trees in the foreground, her pictures were fantastic, true and clear.
    Mine, on the other hand didn’t capture any of that…..dull
    She has the Canon Rebel XS, I had a Canon Power Shot SD1300.
    I know…..no comparison.
    I have been in a lot of chat rooms and forums deciding on either the t3i or t2i.

    Went to Sam’s Club, they had the t2i Bundle, with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5 – 5.6 IS lens
    and also included a EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS lens, plus bag, etc. For a good price I thought …. $800.
    Bought it, they were going fast. But have not taken it out of the box yet. Can always take it back.
    As I am still undecided.

    I have a 2 year old grand daughter, (finally) and I take a lot of pictures and especially videos.
    Have heard that when taking videos with these cameras, you will hear a clicking or wrenching sound
    (as other people have put it) while zooming in and out, because of the internal microphone.
    Is this true…. and the only thing I can see different between the 2 cameras is the articulating LCD.

    In your opinion, would it be worth spending more money on the t3i ?
    How good are the videos with these cameras ?

    Sorry for burning your ears.
    Any input from you would be greatly appreciated.
    ~Victoria

    Reply

    1. Hi Victoria,

      First of all, welcome to the site :)

      When it comes to video, there are no significant quality differences between the two cameras… they both shoot the same quality video at the same frame rates and resolutions. With the T3i, you can use a smaller portion of the sensor to capture the video, which is a type of digital zoom, but otherwise, they’re identical. Both cameras shoot extremely high quality video; it is, in fact, Hollywood motion picture quality. Video from the more expensive 5D II and 7D are frequently used in the production of TV shows and movies, and the video quality of the t2i and t3i is the same as the 7D.

      BUT… shooting video with these cameras is not easy like it is with a videocamera or even a point-and-shoot. The auto-focus performance while shooting video is too slow and inaccurate to be useful; professional film makers use these cameras strictly in manual-focus mode, as so most amateurs.

      The sounds that you catch with the internal microphone will depend largely on the type of lens that you use. USM lenses (ultra-sonic motor) are very quiet when focusing, and more expensive lenses don’t make any significant noise while zooming. Your two lenses have standard micro-motors for focusing (but you should manually focus anyway).

      The T3i has a feature called “Video Snapshots”, which basically collects your short video clips together into a longer video. Also, it’s pop-up has an extra feature for people who shoot with a lot of flashes. It can wirelessly trigger other flashes (up to 30 feet away from the camera, or so) as if they were connected to the camera. Many beginners won’t use this, but it’s great for people who are very interested in using flash.

      It sounds to me like you got a good price on the T2i, and I don’t know if any of the T3is features would be of any use to you.

      Good luck! Let me know if you have any more questions :)

      – Matthew

       

      Reply

      1. Greetings Matthew,
        Kudos to you and this website, I love it….you have helped me before, need to know more.
        ( t3i vs t2i )

        Even though you said I did get a great deal on the t2i bundle, (2 lenses, bag, etc).
        Still have not opened it as of yet.
        I do, in fact, take a lot of videos of my granddaughter, which is why I think the t3i
        with the articulating LCD would be better. Getting down to floor level is killing my knees.

        I found a great deal (maybe) on ebay from ‘ getitdigital ‘ need your input again.
        I have been seeing this a lot ” We sell both USA and Imported models ”
        Imorted is Grey Market, right? Is the warranty just as good ?
        Is there a difference between camera / lenses imported or made in the USA ???

        Before I buy from them I would greatly appreciate your input…..again.
        Thanks so much Matthew
        So sorry for burning your ears again. : )

        ~Vicki

        Reply

        1. Hi Vicki,

          Imported/Grey Market equipment does not have a USA warranty. Sometimes it will have an international warranty, but that means shipping returns to Japan for repairs, generally. I don’t remember whether Canon or Nikon operates that way… I haven’t purchased Grey Market since the early 1990s.  It would be a pain, at any rate, if something went wrong.

          The products themselves are also a little different. The Canon Rebel T3i is called the 600D in foreign markets, so there’d be cosmetic differences (I’d prefer it to be called 600D here, actually). There may be firmware differences, but I’m not aware of any specifically with the T3i/600D.

          In general, though, they’re the same hardware.

          – Matt

          Reply

          1. Hey Matt,
            Thank you so much for the quick response.
            ‘ getitdigital ‘ has a great package that I want. Except for the 55-250 lens.
            It doesn’t state that its an EF-S lens, not a stabilezer lens right, is that a big issue?
            This package has a lot, filters, flash/slave…etc, wish I would have copied and pasted…
            You know what……I’ll get back to you on that.

            Thanks Matt
            Be right back
            ~Vicki

            Reply

            1. Hi Matt,
              I want to thank you for being so patient with an old lady.
              But, it you would, could you please go to getitdigital.com and paste this link to their site and tell me what you think about this package….. USA made…..I love that.

              Canon EOS Rebel T3i 600DDigital SLR Body + 4 Lens Kit: 18-55 IS + 55-250 IS + 24GB & Accessories Bundle!!

              I am so into worth1000.com, my photo’s are not entry quality.

              Thanks again.
              I know, I know, my son tells me all the time I’m a pain.
              ~Vicki

              Reply

              1. Hi Vicki,

                Bargain shopping is probably outside my area of expertise, but I can say a few things about this deal.

                First of all, a lot of the stuff in the package is not really worth anything. The flash, the “wide angle” and “2x telephoto” lenses, and the filters, for example, are things that I wouldn’t use if they were given to me for free. They don’t tell you the class-rating of the SD cards (they should be class 6 or 10 for the camera, but they may pass off old class 4 cards). If there’s something in the package that you really like, you can find it for just a couple of dollars at Amazon.com.

                The fact that they’ll give you a bunch of junk to “sweeten” the deal with no regard for its quality should tell you something about the vendor. You might also want to check out the consumer reviews for the site… a lot of these places are scammers. http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/getitdigital-brooklyn-new-york-c560216.html

                I’d advice you to buy from a reputable dealer, even if it costs a couple dollars more. It will save you a world of frustration (and possibly money) later.

                – Matt

  4. Hi, I’m really into photography but I can’t decide between the rebel t3, t3i or the t2i. My styles of photography are macro, night/low light, travel/outdoor and spontaneous. What would you recommend ? Please help, thanks !

    Reply

    1. Hi Joannie,

      Since the T2i and T3i use the same autofocus system and sensor, there isn’t really any reason to recommend one over the other for the type of work you do. The T3i has the advantage of being able to control external flashes with its popup flash, and it has a swivel screen, but the cameras are virtually identical otherwise (with some software differences).

      Since you specifically mentioned low-light photography, you might also want to consider the Nikon D5100 if you’re not tied to Canon already. The D5100’s sensor performs a little better in low light, and otherwise has the same set of features as the T3i (except its ability to act as a master for off-camera flashes).

      I could probably count the times that I’ve held a T3 in my hands on my fingers. Since the T3i is so popular, the T3 is largely ignored (by me, at the very least :) ). The T3 has a lower resolution sensor than the T3i, so you might suspect that it has less digital noise at high ISO, but in fact, it uses old sensor technology and is actually worse than the T3i…. so I’d steer away from it.

      My answer then is this: Get the T2i unless you want the swivel screen and flash advantages of the T3i, or get the Nikon D5100.

      Reply

  5. Your in put is terrific, I’m new to photography and recently bough the T2i as a package deal at Costco. I see you mention the 50mm f/1.8 lens for potraits, would this be a a good lens for taking pictures of a baby or what other lens would you recomend. I’m a new grandfather and ths is my primary focus for taking pictures at the moment. Thanks for any advice.

    Mo

    Reply

    1. Hi Mo,

      The 50mm f/1.8 would be a great lens for baby pictures… it will help you get fast shutter speeds in low light and reduce blurring, and give you nice, soft backgrounds, when you shoot at f/1.8.  If you’re looking for something that’s a bit more of a telephoto, the 85mm f/1.8 is a more traditional portrait lens, and it has a better build quality, but it’s still not outrageously expensive. When there’s sufficient light, the 18-55mm kit lens should do a good job for catching your wide angle needs.

      Congratulations on becoming a grandfather! My own grandfather, believe it or not, is an avid reader of this site… and he’s 85 :) I’m content with being the uncle of twin girls, though I don’t see them as much as I’d like anymore.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Hi Matthew,

        Thank you for the advise, I am buying the 50mm this weekend. I really enjoy this site, keep up the good work.

        Mo

        Reply

  6. I am looking at the t3i and see package deals for them with an extra lense. is this worth the extra money and if so what lense should i be looking for? i will be using it for general picture taking, children, sports, etc.

    Reply

    1. Hi Chelsey,

      For general shooting, to cover everything from wide angle to telephoto, the combination of the 18-55 and 55-250mm lenses is pretty hard to beat, for the price. It covers a very wide range, and does so with excellent optical quality. The kit with the 75-300 gives you a little extra zoom reach, but the lens quality is really pretty poor.

      The two lenses that I mentioned above (and also in the Lens Recommendation section in the right column —> ) are great for general shooting, but they’re not ideal for low-light action shots (the image stabilization is only helpful when the subject isn’t moving), and they could be a little faster focusing, but they’re pretty good on that count.

      If you decide that you want a lens for shooting in low light (which is also good for portraiture), I can recommend the very inexpensive 50mm f/1.8, which is usually just a little over $100.

      If you have any more questions, feel free to let me know. Also, if you’re new to SLR photography, you might want to take a look at my article on the Three Basics of Photography. :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  7. I need a camera for food photography for my restaurant. I have been looking at the t3i as an entry level camera to get me started. Think this would be my best bet? What lens should I be using?

    Reply

    1. Hi Peter,

      The T3i would be a great camera to start with, especially if you add a flash to your setup. Lighting is very important for food photography. The T3i will wirelessly control that flash, while the T2i won’t.

      In fact (and I probably don’t have to tell you), professional food photography is much more difficult than it looks. Getting professional looking photos requires more than just using the right camera and lens, but also understanding the lighting, composition, and the fundamentals of exposure.

      That said, it really depends on what type of food photography you’re going for. If all you want is a photo that is, essentially, a sharper version of a snapshot, then the kit lens will do the job nicely. If you’re looking for more control over the depth of field (ie, whether the background is blurred but subject is in focus) or if you’d like to do macro work. I’d probably  lean towards a lens like the Canon 60mm f2.8 macro, which will give you extremely sharp images, shallow depth of field when you want it, and extreme close-up abilities. If you’d like to post a couple examples of the types of photos you’re trying to take, I might be able to give you some better advice, though.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matt,

        Here are a couple shots that I had a professional photographer take. http://photobucket.com/phaentjens

        What is your opinion on this lighting product? http://www.amazon.com/Lowell-E1-92-Ego-Two-Light/dp/B000GWKYO4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1325034364&sr=1-2

        I am pretty happy with the pictures the photographer took but I plan on releasing a menu insert with pictures every two weeks and using him would be prohibitively expensive. Photography interests me and I’d like to learn how to take these shots on my own.

        Thanks for your help!

        Peter

        Reply

        1. Hi Peter,

          First of all, let me say that you got some good work out of the photographer you hired. It looks pretty nice. All of the shots look as though they were taken with a medium telephoto lens, so the 60mm lens would probably serve you well.

          However, I would be remiss if i didn’t say something further. A professional photographer would undoubtedly be able to use a Canon T3i to get photos of that quality (in fact, the make and model of the camera would make very little difference). But no matter what camera you buy, or how much money you spend, you won’t take better pictures until you’ve learned how to be a good photographer; the camera will never do the important work. So don’t get your hopes up too high… you won’t get professional results at first unless you’ve had a lot of practice already.  But by the same token, also don’t be discouraged if your results aren’t what you’d hoped for… you can learn to produce them, there just isn’t a magic bullet like buying some type of camera. It will just take some study and practice. There are some great books on food photography, and of course, a good working knowledge of photography theory is critical.

          I would actually not recommend a setup like the one that you’ve linked to. That would produce soft side-lighting, which might work, but is not idea for food. For food photography, lighting is usually overhead and behind the hero (hero = food model that’s been perfected), which emphasizes the texture. You’d be much better off using a tripod and window light, with the window behind the food, or a standard flash head (like the 430ex) used with a grid and maybe a gel, on a light stand behind and above the food, and a reflector in front of the food.

          However, if that’s too much to deal with at first, then something like your link or a light tent would be a decent short-term solution. You’ll find dozens of similar setups like this on Amazon.com, just search for “Light Tent”.

          Good luck! Let me know if i can be of any further help.

          – Matthew

          Reply

  8. Thank you for a clean, concise, easy to understand comparision. It gave me all the info I needed to decide between T2i / T3i.

    Reply

  9. Hey Matthew,
    Thanks for your comparison between the T2i and T3i. It was by far one of the best comparison Ive found and made my decision for a T2i that much easier. Was wonder what lens you’d recommend for taking pictures up close of flowers and insects. Thanks in advance!

    Reply

  10. What does •“Video Snapshots”, which are short video clips assembled in-camera into an extended video” mean??? That was one of your above differences that the T3i has over the T2i.

    One thing that bothers me about using a camera instead of a camcorder to video is that everything is in clips.. I want it to be one flowing video of, for example, my kids basketball game. I may stop and start my video on my camera 20 times but only have about 7 min of video total and it is a pain to open each individual clip to show someone the video. With my camcorder just puts it all together for me.

    Soooo I guess my question is will the T3i solve that problem???

    Thank you, Tammy

    Reply

    1. Hi Tiffany,

      Those zoom lengths are will give you great coverage for most situations. The problem that most people run into when photographing children, though, is that they don’t have enough light, so the photos end up being blurry, either from the camera shaking, or from the kids moving.

      Unfortunately, neither of your lenses are great for letting in lots of light, but if you’re not shooting in dimly lit situations (or if you’re using flash), then that won’t matter.

      If you DO find that that you need more light, then I’d recommend the 50mm f/1.8, or for a little more range and smoother backgrounds, the 85mm f/1.8 . The f/1.8 means that it will let in 8x more light than one of your lenses at f/5.6.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  12. Hello! I have checked out some Nikons, but I ended up buying a Canon Rebel 2Ti from Costco. I am wondering if I made a good choice? Most of the picutres I take are of my kids and my family. Was this a good choice? I could return or exchange the camera, if I needed to. Thank you for your time!

    Reply

    1. Hi Tiffany,

      The T2i is a great camera; whether it’s the right choice for you really depends on how you intend to use it. For pictures of kids and family, it should serve you well, as long as you use the appropriate lens (the same is true of any SLR, of course). If you haven’t already, you might want to take a look at the Three Basics article that is on this site.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  13. I am really wanting to get a DSLR camera and keep coming back to the 2 canon models, T2i and T3i. I had in the past the Rebel SLR which I loved, but film cameras are almost obsolete now. Anyway, I take pictures of landscapes, especially storms and close ups of nature, including insects and flowers. Would there be more of an advantage between the two for this specific purpose? And would the lenses that comes with these be sufficient for the use I am wanting? Both come in a package deal with either a 55-250 mm or a 75-300mm telephoto zoom lens.Thanks for your help. Also, I would need one that is user friendly and not too complicated.

    Reply

    1. Hi Ardis,

      As you’ve probably already read above, the differences between the T3i and T2i are minimal: the T3i has digital zoom for video, a swivel screen, and wireless flash control. The video features don’t interest me. If you have used a Rebel in the past, both of these are also easy to use… but you might want to take a minute to look at my “Three Basics” article, just to refresh your memory. I personally don’t find the swivel screen very useful, but I suppose some people will. (If you still have your old film Rebel, the lenses from that camera will work on either of these Rebels, too… just something to keep in mind.)

      The one thing that I DO think is important for some people is that the pop-up flash on the T3i can be used to trigger other flashes, wirelessly. If you’re a flash photographer, this can be important, or even if you’re not but like to do portraiture… it’s worth spending some time learning how to use wireless flash.

      Between the two lenses that you mentioned, I’d avoid the 75-300; it’s not Canon’s best piece of engineering. The 55-250 is optically very solid. But that said, if you’re interested in macro photography, I’d recommend looking at Canon’s 60mm f/2.8 macro lens, which is awesome.

      My general advice is always to buy the least expensive that will suit your needs, and then buy the best lenses possible. Good lenses will last for ages (as evidenced by your old Rebel lenses, mentioned above). :)

      Let me know if you still have questions.

      Reply

      1. Thank you so much for your response. Since you said that I could use my old Rebel lenses, I just checked to see what I have. I have on the camera, 34-80 mm, and also have an 80-200 mm lens too. Do you think these would work and would the 55-250 be still a good accessory? Also, I came across a Vivitar close-up lens kit, which includes a 1+, 2+ and 4+ (52mm) which goes with my Rebel. Not sure of the purpose for this kit. I am just wondering if I should get the T2i bundle kit or the basic camera and lens along with the 60mm f/2.8 if these other lenses will do the job. Oh, also, the reason I quit using my Rebel is that there was a problem with my zoom lens not working, so not sure if it was the camera or the lens. Thanks again Matthew and will be awaiting your response.

        Reply

        1. Hi Ardis,

          Do you know the full name of the 80-200 (eg, Canon EF80-200 f/2.8L)? Canon used to make a really nice one, but it was quite expensive; there were good ones from other manufacturers, too, and less expensive models from Canon.

          The Vivitar close up set is basically a set of magnifying lenses that screw onto the end of another lens of the correct size. I’m guessing they’d fit the 35-80, but probably not the 80-200, though I could be wrong there. They’re handy, but the image quality is generally not as good as a true macro, and they usually won’t get you as close up… and there’s some loss of light. For most things, the image quality is fine, though.

          If your 80-200 is in good working order, it might be a sufficient to replace the 55-250, though the 55-250 has image stabilization, and your older lens probably won’t. The 35-80 will not really be a wide angle on the T3i or T2i, it will be more like a mid-range to weak telephoto, so you might think about getting the kit lens (18-55) with the T2i if you skip the 55-250, if you want a true wide angle lens. The 60mm is not only a great macro lens, it’s a good portrait lens, too… good in low light, and very sharp.

          – Matthew

          Reply

          1. Matthew, the full name of the lens is EF80-200 1:4.5-5.6, plus it says Canon Lens made in Japan. That macro lens sounds great, but a little expensive. I guess though it would be well worth it. Not really sure about my older lens even works, so probably should just invest in the kit with the 55-250 since it seems to be a good deal and splurge for the extra macro lens too. With the macro, I am assuming I can get very close up photos of bugs without being close to the insect myself, right?

            Reply

            1. Actually, with the 60mm, you’ll end up getting pretty close to the insects, too, for true macro. The main difference between this lens and others is that it will keep focusing, even when you’re very close to the subject… more like a microscope than a telescope.

              To increase the working distance, you’d need to go with something like a 180mm macro. They’re a bit more pricey. Tamron makes a nice one, a 180mm f/3.5. Sigma has a 150mm that’s even more expensive… about $1100 (Canon’s is $1800).

              Perhaps a good intermediate choice would be the Tokina 100mm f2.8, which is around the same price range as the 60mm. Great image quality, nice solid build, not too expensive.

              – Matthew

              Reply

              1. Thanks so much for responding so fast. I do have one more question to ask. I found a lens for a very reasonable price and was wondering if it would work with the T3i; the canon EF 50mm F2.5 macro lens. Its about half the price of the 60mm one. Is there much difference between the two? I found these at buydig.com. Are they a reliable company?

              2. The 50mm macro is also a good lens; it’s a very old model (late 1980s), but good, and will also work on a full-frame camera if you ever get one. I didn’t think they were still made, actually… but I see that it’s available at Amazon.com, too, for about $250. The more modern lens may be a little sharper (better lens coatings, etc) in the lab, but in the real world, I’d be surprised if you’d be able to see a quality difference.

                I can’t vouch for buydig… don’t know whether they’re reliable or not. I’ve only heard the name.

  14. I currently own a pentax k10. I love all the features and have recently learned more about the manual mode and have done well with it. The problem is I shoot nite shoots of football and baseball. These are hard to shoot with the field lights and all the movement. I haven’t perfected it by no means. I am looking to upgrade and really cant decide which camera would be best. I have read all the reviews on this site and they are helpful but I want make sure I am getting the right camera for me. I haven’t used a camera with video but may beings that is one less thing to pack for the games. I 4 kid and they are active, I love shooting still shots of them as well but love getting them in motion too. I am still really stupid on the settings part but plan on getting some classes soon. I have looked at both the t3i and t2i as well as the nikon cameras, any opinion that could offer me some help in this decision would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you so much
    Leanne

    Reply

    1. Hi Leanne,

      It sounds like night/low-light photography will be the decisive factor for your new camera. There are really two important things for shooting in low light: 1) Large aperture lenses and 2) good high-ISO performance from your camera’s sensor.

      When it comes to ISO performance, the Nikon 16 megapixel sensors are probably a little better than Canon’s 18 megapixel sensors. The difference is actually quite a bit more minor than people make it out to be, and at high ISO, neither can really be considered Great image quality. But the Nikon may be the lesser of two evils at ISO3200 (pretty close) and certainly at 6400.

      The other important factor, lenses, is also probably the more expensive factor. You’ll want to buy something with at least an f/2.8 maximum aperture or larger (f2, 1.8, 1.4 are all larger). But these are frequently VERY expensive, so it’s worth checking on the cost of the lens that you want from both manufacturers and see how they compare.

      I guess the third option is using flash, but that takes a fair amount of dedication.

      In the end, for your needs, I’d probably lean towards the Nikon D5100, which is very closely matched with the Canon T3i (or if you can afford it, the D7000). The Canon does have some advantages, but it sounds like the low light superiority (even if it’s slight) will probably be more important to you.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  15. I, like the many others, am still contemplating which camera to buy, namely, the canon t2i or the canon t3i. I shoot mostly architecture and nature (animals, landscapes). I am also very interested in capturing daily life. Video is becoming an interest of mine but I doubt that it will overtake my love for stills. At any rate, I have exhausted my studies of the differences between the two aforementioned cameras and it boils down to the swivel screen. For $60 more on Amazon, the t3i is available in all its gimmicky swivel screen glory! In your opinion, how beneficial is this screen? Will I use it much? I do like to capture pictures from different angles but I don’t mind getting dirty for the right shot. So, is it worth it?
    -additional questions: will either of the above cameras work with the 64gb sdxc card or a standard 32gb microSD?
    -which is preferable to shoot in, RAW or JPEG? I have been using a Sony Cybershot and all my pics and knowledge are in the JPEG format. Thank you for all your time in educating us. Greg

    Reply

    1. Hi Greg,

      I personally do not use swivel screens when they’re available, in large part because I don’t use live-view for composing, and I don’t shoot much video. Live-view is slow, and hard to see in bright daylight. Whether you’ll use it much, I can’t speculate :)

      However, the T3i’s ability to act as a wireless eTTL command module is easily worth the $60, if you’ll use it… and it’s worth learning how.

      Neither camera accepts micro SD cards directly, but with an adapter, they might… though I’m not sure you’d get the best performance. They will both work with SDHC and XC, even the 128G cards.

      Canon’s JPGs are high quality, but you should always shoot RAW. It takes some learning, since RAW files generally won’t look as good as a jpg when they come straight out of the camera, but it’s well worth it once you know how. You get a tremendous amount more data to work with, and a lot more flexibility… which may not be important for every shot, but it’s very important if you’ve made a little mistake with exposure or white balance.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. hi Matthew. I decided to purchase the t3i. I am still learning how to use it. I have some questions regarding lenses and settings for shooting architecture in the snow. I’m going to eastern Europe for xmas and NY. What is the cheapest wide angle lens best for architectiral and landscape shots and what are the best settings for snow shots fora novice?

        Reply

        1. As with most things in photography, when you ask for “the best”, it really all depends on your budget. For a standard wide-angle to mid-range zoom, Canon’s 18-55 is actually cheap and optically good, and has image stabilization, but it’s not great for low light, and at 18mm, it’s not especially wide angle (about 28mm on full frame).

          A better option in the same zoom range would be the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8, also stabilized, but is a much better low light lens (4x more light at 50mm).

          But if you’re looking for something wider, there are three other good options. My first choice is the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, a nice wide angle with good low-light abilities, and high optical performance. But it’s a bit pricey. Canon’s 10-22 is optically good, too, but not so great in low light, and it’s expensive. Sigma’s 10-20 is practically the same quality as the Canon, and costs $400 less.

          Shooting in the snow generally requires you to change one setting: exposure compensation. But only when the snow is affecting your camera’s meter reading. It’s a little complicated to explain here, so I recommend that you take a look at my “histogram series” of articles (Menu on right, under “Learn Photography”). I think the last article deals specifically with snow. Basically, you’ll use exposure compensation to add about 2-stops to your exposure in the snow :)

          Good luck!

          Reply

          1. Thanks for your advice. I love your timely responses too! Any advice on 58mm filters for the T3i? I primarily shoot landscape and architecture. I am about to leave to snowy grounds so I think a filter is indicated. Thanks

            Reply

            1. My general advice is to NOT use a UV filter unless conditions are very bad. A little water will not hurt your front element. However, if you’re going to be rubbing it away frequently, then go ahead and use one. DO use a lens hood, all the time. UV filters are much more likely to degrade your image quality than to protect your lens (especially in backlight).

              If you do get one, get a good quality one; Canon makes them, of course, and B+W are good, too.

              Reply

  16. I am so glad to have discovered this post! I’m currently in the market to purchase a DSLR and wasn’t exactly sure what was the difference aside from price between these two models! You’ve helped me make a decision, I think the T2i will be suitable for my needs as I don’t have plans to really use my DSLR for video purposes. Thank you!

    Reply

  17. Hello, I am also looking for some advice. I want to get into some amature photography myself, mostly portraits and outside pictures. I am debating between the t3i an the t2i as well, I am hoping to start a small buisness in a year or so after some courses and experience. I don’t want to cheep out if it will benefit me down the road. I also want to prior chase an external flash and would love some advice on that for what I am wanting to do. Thank you! ;)

    Reply

    2. Hi Natisha,

      My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will fill your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford. If you’re interested in portraits, though, then you’ll probably eventually want to start using off-camera flash (though at the moment, using flash might not sound appealing at all… once you learn how to use it well, it makes a huge difference). Since the T3i can act as a control module for off-camera eTTL flash, and the T2i can’t, that would push me over the edge for the T3i.

      When it comes to flash, the canon 430ex ii is a good place to start. It’s reasonably priced, full featured, and although it doesn’t act as a commander for other flashes, your T3i will… so you can use the T3i to wirelessly control the 430 ex ii. I recently wrote a quick comparison of some other good flashes, if you’d like to take a look.

      Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  18. I am new at this and my future photography will consist of weddings, babies, and portraits. I am leaning toward the t3i. What lens should I buy first?
    Thanks

    Reply

    1. Hi Jacqueline,

      It really depends on two things: what else you have already, and whether you’ll shoot with off-camera flash.

      My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will fill your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford… and if you’re going to shoot as a professional (which is what it sounds like your intention is), you’ll need some great lenses. So, I’m inclined to say, get the T2i and spend the money you’ve saved on better lenses or flash equipment. However, if you’re planning on shooting with off-camera eTTL flash (like wireless 430ex or 530ex IIs), the T3i can act as a control module, while the T2i can’t. A control module costs hundred of dollars, so you might as well buy the T3i if you plan to use it that way (and many people do). Otherwise, the T2i is pretty inexpensive right now… only $605 in a kit with the 18-55mm lens.

      Those are my initial thoughts, anyway. I’d lean towards the T3i (currently $899 with the 18-55mm and 55-250mm), or the 60D if you can afford it.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  19. I have read several of your comparisons, very educational. I am leaning towards the T2i and would appreciate your opinion on using this camera and what would be appropriate lenses and equipment in certain situations. Like a lot of people, I will have the usual special occasions and holiday pictures but my main concern is outfitting to cover the following scenarios.
    1. Soccer in daylight hours, 20 to 50 yards away.
    2. Soccer at night, with high school quality outdoor lighting, 20 to 50 yards away.
    3. Volleyball, indoor gym lighting, 20 to 50 feet away.
    I have used 35mm SLRs and now have an older non-SLR digital (not happy with low light shots) but treat me as as beginner.
    Thanks

    Reply

    1. For soccer during the day, your have a lot of options. I’d probably go with something in the 300mm range (a 70-300 would be good), and it wouldn’t have to be particularly wide aperture, but a USM would be a good idea for any kind of sports. A 70-200 would be great too, though you’d get the best results on the near side of the field.

      Soccer at night is hard, and at the very least, it requires an expensive lens or a serious flash setup. You’ll need a lens with a wide aperture, like an f/2.8, and even then, it will be tricky. Canon’s 70-200 f/2.8 would be a good choice, and you might want to use it with a monopod. Or, you could spend the extra $1000 on the IS II model.

      If you take a look at the forum here, one of our members recently posted some photos of a shoot that he did at night in a relatively well lit football field, using that lens, and even then, he had a hard time getting fast enough shutter speeds to stop the action, even using very high ISO. So even an expensive lens isn’t a magic bullet, but without it, things would be much worse.

      Actually, if you could make due without the reach of a 200mm, an 85mm f/1.8 would give you even more light, and for a lot less money, but it’s really not a great sports lens because of the lack of zoom and the limited telephoto range.

      The same thing is generally true for indoor volleyball; it may seem light in a gym to the human eye, but to a camera, it’s quite dark. Since the court is so much smaller, you’re much more likely to be able to get away with a prime lens like a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4, which are relatively inexpensive and let in a lot of light, but you wouldn’t get the flexibility and range of a 70-200 f/2.8.

      The other option is to set up flashes around the gym, and use radio-triggers to fire them. It’s an elaborate setup, but will generally give you the most control and best light in a gym. But explaining how to do it is probably beyond the scope of the comment section of this article :)

      I know that’s a little bit broad, so let me know if you still have further questions :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matthew,
        Thanks. I was afraid that there would be an expensive end to the low light sports situations. That is an expensive lens for non-professional family photographer (term used lightly) but, the information you have given will keep me from spending money on equipment that will not produce the desired results. You only get one shot at it (life and photographs), right?

        I think I’ll save a little play money and go for your suggestion. That lens would also serve me well for the daytime soccer, right? Considering my three sports enviroments, this could be my most used lens. If you look at it that way, it’s not so bad.

        The link to the members photos was a great help. I’d love to get shots that good. He was little hard on himself.

        It’s nice to know there is someone out there that will spend their time helping with no personal gain expected. Thanks again.

        Reply

        1. The 85mm f/1.8 is an awesome portrait lens; that’s really what it’s designed for. It’s not much of a telephoto lens, though, so it’ll be great if your sports subjects are pretty close (and it will blur the background behind them nicely), but it will be hard to use for more distant subjects. An 85mm lens on a T2i or T3i would produce images more like a 135mm lens on a 35mm camera, though, so it’s better than it looks.

          I hope you looked around and found Rob’s earlier set of photos, which he shot in the daylight, for comparison.

          Good luck!

          – Matthew

          Reply

          1. I should have been more specific. I was referring to the recomendation of the Canon 70-200 f/2.8. What do you think?

            Reply

            1. I see :) I’m of the opinion that Canon’s 70-200 lenses are the best in the world, and they’re great lenses for just about anything. It’s hard to go wrong with one, if you don’t mind spending the money.

              You’ll still get more light with a cheap 50mm f1.8 (about $100), so it will be worth considering one at some point in the future, for those times when you just need more light.

              Reply

  20. This is definitely one of the best reviews I’ve seen comparing the two cameras, thank you very much. I’m a student photographer, have a good understanding of the fundamentals, and currently am still using a Rebel XS 10mp camera. I am throwing around the idea of upgrading my camera soon, but am not completely sure which I want to buy. I’m leaning towards a T3i or a 5D Mark II. While the 5D is much more expensive, does it really have that big of an advantage over the T3i? I mean, other than the obvious lack of flash and 3mp higher. I am just trying to avoid the buying of a camera, then 6 months later wishing I had just saved my money a little longer and bought the other one. Your thoughts are appreciated.

    Reply

    1. Hi Josh,

      There’s probably some good middle ground between the T3i and the 5D MkII :) There are two or three major differences when it comes to large sensor vs. APS-C. First, of course, is the difference in digital noise; smaller sensors are generally noisier, and there is a modest noise advantage in using the 5D. Smaller sensors also require higher resolution lenses (or put a different way, they enlarge the flaws of the same lens more than a larger sensor would), so there’s a resolution advantage that is significant. There’s also a depth of field difference; if you shot a portrait (framed the same, but therefore not from the same distance to the subject) at f/2.8 with the same lens on both cameras, you’d get shallower depth of field with the 5D… about a 1 stop difference (a bit more, actually). So, with the APS-C sensor, it would appear more like you’d shot it at f/4 .

      Depending on what you shoot and how you work, though, these things might not really be important. I discuss some of the details in more depth in my post comparing the 5D Mark II and the 7D, so you might want to check that out :) If that doesn’t clear things up, let me know, and I’ll see if I can help.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  21. Hi,
    I am barely starting to learn how to use canon cameras. I am really in to taking pictures of nature and animals, also of people on a background, walking in the park or playing sports. I have watched reviews on the T2i and T3i and i love the picture quality. ( I also want to take video with good quality ) I am thinking about getting a T2i or T3i but don’t know which one will suit me best. which one would you recommend?

    Reply

    1. Hi Sarah,

      The T2i and T3i are very similar, as you probably know. They’re both great cameras, and they’d both suit your needs, and obviously, the T2i is less expensive. They have the same sensor and image quality, same speed, same AF system.

      If you think that you’d use the swivel screen, then you might lean towards the T3i. If you’d like to use eTTL flash (this might not seem important at first, but it can be a big deal for some photographers), then go with the T3i. The T3i also has a useful digital zoom while shooting 1080p video, which may also be a consideration.

      If none of those things interest you, then save your money and buy the T2i, so you’ll have more money to put into lenses, which is really the joy of shooting with an SLR anyway. :)

      Reply

    1. That’s a good question. I’m pretty impressed with what I know about the Nex-5, but I don’t have as much experience with non-SLRs, so I can’t give you anything firm at the moment.

      My major problem with cameras that don’t have a viewfinder is that when you’re shooting in the sun, it can be very hard to see what you’re getting on the LCD on the back. It’s also important to think about the range of lenses available (lots for the SLRs), and the limitations of trying to use a compact camera with flash (the Nex doesn’t even have a pop-up flash… there’s a little attachable one).

      Anyway, those are just my initial thoughts. I think the Nex cameras are great for what they are, but not replacements for SLRs.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  23. I need help. All if this is Greek to me. I am signed up for a class to teach me the ins and outs of my digital camera. Right now I have a Nikon Coolpix, basic point and shoot. I hate it btw. Anyway I am launching a blog and it was suggested by another blogger that I get the Canon 60D I think since most images will be fashion style focused. However considering the camera I currently own and my lack of photography experience I think that’s too much to spend right now. A photographer friend suggested I start out with the T2i. I went to pick it up from Best Buy and the salesperson suggested I get the T3i since its newer and price difference is only 100 bucks. I don’t know what to do. I have no photography or video experience although I want to learn but I don’t want to buy something I don’t need or scrimp and wish I hadn’t. I also dont want to buy another camera for at least 3 years. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.

    Reply

    1. Hi Monica,

      A couple of things.

      First, the good news is that any digital SLR will be good enough for images being published on the web, as long as you know how to use it, and it sounds like you’re heading the right direction. The differences between the T3i and T2i are minor, but if you think you’d use the swivel screen on the T3i, or if you might use the digital zoom for video on the T3i, it’s probably worth the cost… the T3i body is currently only $672, without a lens. The 60D body is about $200 more, and though I think it might be worth it if you’re really into photography, it sounds like you’re looking for a work-tool rather than a new hobby. So I’d skip the 60D and get the T3i.

      The lens or lenses that you choose are just as important. What will you be photographing, and in what environment?

      If you’re going to be shooting a lot of video, particularly video of yourself, you might want to think about the Nikon D5100 instead. It will auto-focus while shooting video, which comes in handy for blog work. It’s too slow to be useful to use the camera like a real video camera, but SLRs are not really made for shooting video… focusing takes some practice no matter what. The T3i/T2i/60D don’t have full time auto-focus when shooting video… you have to press the shutter button now and then to make it pull focus, and then it does so slowly. If you’re not working with a lot of video, I’d go with the T3i.

      You might also want to check out my “Three Basics of Photography” article sometime (it won’t help with camera choice), which some people have found helpful, and you might want to check out the “Lens Recommendations” section, in the right column menu.

      Let me know if you need some help with lens choice.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks for the prompt reply. First , i was mistaken. The first suggestion I received was for the Canon EOS Mark II 5D. I won’t be doing too much video. Perhaps the occasional snippet to be pieced together for advertising or a tag. I will be photographing mostly products, impromptu shots on the street or wherever of stylish people , and a few of myself and children. The focus is fashion and style of mothers intermingled with my own journey from a fashion journalist and editor to stay at home mom. I also have some profiles scheduled which include shoots of moms , their businesses, and homes. Id like the images to be professional enough to use for print at a later date. As for the T3i, I was going to get the lens that comes with the best buy package, an 18-55 mm lens. The body and lens is $778.99. They have great extended warranties and I have toddlers. I take it this isn’t the lens I want?

        Reply

        1. Ahh, the 5D Mark II is a great camera, but it’s in a different price class.

          All of the Canon cameras from the T2i up to the 7D are currently using the same basic sensor, an 18 megapixel model… which is more than sufficient for a full page print in a glossy magazine or much larger print… image quality is not an issue (again, assuming you know how to use it).

          But that said, it’s not the camera that makes the difference between a professional quality photo and a snapshot; it’s the photographer. The camera is, at most, a necessary but not sufficient tool. For professional looking portraits, you’ll either need some flash equipment and knowledge of lighting, or a lot of luck… sometimes you’ll just be in a place where the light is perfect. Or, if you have a well developed eye for natural light, you can seek it out, too, I suppose :) And I’m guessing that you wouldn’t be undertaking this venture if you didn’t have a pretty good eye.

          The 18-55 lens is a good lens for general shooting… but it’s not a portrait lens, and it’s mostly a wide-angle (which can work well on the street). It would be fine for product shots, as long as they’re not too small. You might need a telephoto at some point, and a wide aperture lens, but that will depend, in large part, on your particular style. I’d probably go for something flexible, in the 50(or70) – 200mm range, with as wide a maximum aperture as you can afford.

          Reply

  24. Thanks for the quick response. It answered my question, and I am surprised I think I understood most of it.. Maybe I am not the total NOOB I thought I was. ;-)

    One more question, would 615.00 for a t2i body only be a bad deal? Found it online and looking to purchase soon. Reg. price at this dealer is 699.00

    Brian

    Reply

      1. thanks for all the help, I picked up a t2i kit with the 18-55 lens from Sears.com for $649.00 shipped to my door 2nd day air. (on sale $597.00)

        Played with it over the weekend and I LOVE IT…. ;-) Thanks for answering all my questions

        Reply

  25. I am a total camera noob, I have a Cannon Rebel t2 35MM film camera I purchased several years ago. I use it mainly for taking pictures at events, local Baseball games, Renaisannce Faires, photos of my son (18 Months old) and general basic photography. Nothing special, I am looking to upgrade to Digital to make it easier to take pitcures of my son with out have to spend $$$ on film processing to get one or two good pictures and 22 fuzzy, blurry, head turned at the last second pictures.

    I have found a t2i DSLR on sale but it is a body only. I see where I can the t2i can use the same lenses as the film cameras. Someone at a local camera store was recommending that I needed new lenses since it would still work, but not like I was expecting. What would the difference be with the lenses? I have the standard one that came with the Camera, I think its the 18x55mm (does that sound right) I don’t have it with me at work, and I bought a EF75x300mm zoom lens for longer shots. I just don’t want to get duped by a camera store to drop money on lenses that I don’t need, but I also don’t want to have pictures not turn out right by being getting a body only to save a little money.

    Did I make sense. if not sorry, I am a total noob at this. I love photography and enjoy taking pictures and seeing the results (canon makes it idiot proof for sure). I want to learn all I can, and I am looking into local classes to improve (none offered for film cameras anylonger, only digital so that is another plus to getting the t2i). Thanks for your time.

    Brian

    Reply

    1. Hi Brian,

      What the camera store owner meant is that the sensor in a digital camera (at least, in the T2i) is smaller than 35mm film. The sensor size is referred to as APS-C, and instead of being 36 x 24mm like a film frame, it’s 22.3 x 14.9mm. This means that the sensor is only capturing the center of the image, so it actually appears magnified… like you’ve zoomed in just a little further. This is known as the “Crop Factor”, and with Canon, it is 1.6x. So, if you have a 50mm lens for a film camera, the field of view is equivalent to an 80mm lens (50 x 1.6 = 80). Some people like this, especially if they shoot a lot of telephoto shots, since a 300mm lens acts like a 480mm lens.

      On the other hand, it makes shooting wide angle photos tricky with lenses designed for full-frame cameras. A 28mm lens is pretty wide on film, but with the crop factor, it’s like a 45mm lens, which is really a “normal” range lens… not wide angle.

      So, along with making smaller-sensor cameras, Canon started making lenses (EF-S) that produce a smaller image circle inside the camera (so they won’t fill the frame if you put them on a 35mm camera). But they are easier to make for a small sensor, and cover the ranges that we usually want…. a typical EF-S kit lens is 18-55 mm, which acts like a 28-90mm zoom lens (roughly), which is a decent range. You might want to check out the “Lens Recommendation” section of this site —> in the side menu.

      Good luck, and let me know if you have any more questions.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  26. i just brought the canon t2i……but thinking of upgrade to t3i. i know it is not a whole difference. but i do take a lot of pictures as well as videos. while i am satisfied of the shooting capability of t2i…the enhanced video capability is causing me to consider of t3i?? is it worth the upgrade?

    Reply

    1. Hi Sylvia,

      The differences between the two are probably worth spending a little extra to buy a T3i, but not not worth buying a T3i in addition to a T2i :) The main improvement that you’ll get (video-wise) with the T3i is the new “digital zoom” feature, which actually reduces the area of the sensor that is used, rather than digitally enlarging video (which is typical of digital zoom). And, of course, there’s the swivel-screen, if you think that would be useful. The video-snapshots feature does not sound particularly interesting to me. Extra creative filters may come in handy for shooting video, especially if you don’t already add them yourself when you’re editing your video. Beyond these things, there are practically no differences when it comes to video. Since I don’t shoot video, these things would not be persuasive to me.

      Personally, I’d probably buy the T3i just for the off-camera flash control, but that is a feature that very few photographers use. If you own a Canon flash (like the 430ex II) and think that you’ll use eTTL flash, then that’s one more things to consider.

      – Matthew

      Reply

    2. is the t2i capable of “digital zoom” as well? isn’t the len control the zooming? in additon, how is the flash control for t2i? i dont own any canon flash.

      Reply

  27. I take alot of action shots and have the Rebel XTi and will probably go for the T2i. I realize I need the stabilizer in the body but can I use the same lenses I had before and get good shots if the lense does not have the image stabilizer.

    Reply

    1. Hi Lisa,

      The quick answer is Yes, you can use all of your old lenses.

      The longer answer is that for action photography, image stabilization is not helpful. Image stabilization reduces blurring caused by camera movement at a slow shutter speed, but doesn’t do anything about Subject movement. For that, the only thing that you can do is use a faster shutter speed, and that requires either using a higher ISO (causing more noise), shooting in brighter light (sometimes out of your control) or using lenses with larger apertures (ie, smaller f-stop numbers), which are expensive. You can also use flash, which can help if you’re shooting in a very dark location, since the duration of the flash becomes the effective shutter speed.

      So, I guess the longer answer is that you can use the old lenses and get good results shooting action, but only if you’re able to use it with a fast enough shutter speed. If this doesn’t really make much sense, you might find my recent article about shutter-speed, aperture, and ISO helpful.

      Also keep in mind that Canon and Nikon do not make cameras with image stabilization in the body (though Sony does, for example).

      Hope this helps!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  28. Matthew thanks for the nice comparison. I have been playing around with HDR photography but with a photo & shoot and tripod. I have gotten some nice pictures but it is not the easiest. How would the T3i perform in taking pictures to combine into HDR photos? Thanks, Jim

    Reply

    1. Hi Jim,
      Shooting HDRs with just about any SLR, including the T3i, should be a lot easier than using a point and shoot. With the T3i, you can easily set the camera to shoot several bracketed shots above and below the metered exposure, which makes things easy… and depending on which HDR software you’re using, you also have the advantage of being able to process RAW photos, which will give you even higher quality results, which is not always possible with PnS cameras. I don’t combine to HDR much, but I do frequently use the auto-bracketing for protective exposure.

      And, of course, since HDRs tend to have a problem with noise, an SLR will give you much better noise control than a PnS, if you shoot a low ISO. Again, this isn’t specific to the T3i, but it is true of the T3i.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  29. hi i am considering to buy a t3i with 18-135mm lens. would you consider newegg.com as a reliable source to buy the camera.
    thanks

    Reply

  30. Thanks for the comparison on the T2i-T3i- this was the best I’ve seen so far.

    I want to shoot action sports shots- horses jumping cross country fences and such. Is there a noticeable difference between fast action continuous frames?

    I think because I also want to take some video shots, that the T3i might be the way to go.

    Reply

    1. Hi Caplewis,

      As far as action photography is concerned, the two cameras are identical. They have the same frame-rates, and use the same AF system (along with the same sensor, of course). So in that regard, there’s no particular reason to choose the T3i over the T2i.

      And they both are virtually the same when it comes to video; the only major difference is that the T3i has a quasi-digital zoom. Neither are especially easy to use for video, but both are high quality. If you’re leaning towards the T3i, though, it is certainly the newer camera, and that’s something worth considering in itself.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  31. Thank you so much! Your comparison was thorough.
    I found out that I don't need to spend more money: the T2i is great for me.  I want a camera to take pictures. I don't care about the video part of it.

    Reply

  32. great review i learned alot and i think ima go with the ti3 .
    what other cameras would you recommend that better then ti3.?
    thank you

    Reply

    1. My general advice, when it comes to cameras, is to buy the least expensive one that will fulfill your needs, and then buy the best lenses possible. For lots of people, the T3i will be more than enough camera.

      However, there are plenty of other options. The Canon 60D is a little better, and not much more expensive, but it just depends on what you want in a camera. I’ve written a comparison of the T3i and 60D on this site, if you’d like a little more detail about that.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  33. Wow, your reply was fast!

    I’ll probably go for the T2i, as I could put the saved money towards lenses. Plus newegg has the t2i body for US $619.

    Your comparison is very helpful, and thanks for the fast answer.

    Reply

  34. It looks like the t3i doesn’t have a proximity sensor to turn off live view when using the viewfinder, could someone possibly confirm this?

    Reply

  35. I own a landscape lighting company and I have taken photo’s for the past several years with the Sony F-707. I would like to upgrade to the T2i or T3i. I would also like to have a wide angle lens for certain homes and landscapes. Which wide angle lens do you recommend for taking landscape lighting photo’s?
    Costco is currently offering a package deal with the T2i, 18-55mm lens, 55-250mm lens and 4GB SD card for 899.99. What do you recommend? Thanks

    Reply

    1. For landscape photography, there is nothing in particular to recommend the T3i over the T2i; they’ll both give you equally great image quality when used correctly. The new features on the T3i probably will not be particularly useful to you, since it sounds like you’ll be using natural light instead of complicated off-camera flash setups. If you want a swivel screen on the back of the camera, look at the T3i, but otherwise, you can save some money and get the T2i.

      My impression is that if you’re going to be photographing lights on a landscape, you won’t be doing it during full daylight… you’ll be working in somewhat dark conditions. Ideally, you’d use a tripod, and if you did, then you could buy just about any wide angle lens (Canon’s 18-55 is a pretty good lens anyway, and so is Sigma’s 10-20mm, if you want something wider ), and you could get high quality images.

      However, if you expect to hand-hold your shots, and you don’t want them to look grainy from the high ISO, then you’ll want a lens that has (a) image stabilization and that (b) lets in a lot of light. Depending on how wide you want to shoot, a couple of good choices would be the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 or the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8. They’re both relatively expensive, since they’re high quality lenses, but not nearly as expensive as the Canon equivalent (17-55mm f2.8).

      The Costco deal that you mention sounds good, but not wildly good, especially considering sales tax. You’ll get about the same prices online… you might even save a bit. At amazon, the T2i with 18-55 costs $750, and the 55-250 costs$190, shipping could be free… so you’d be at $940. Depending on what your state sales tax is, that may be less than what you’d pay (in WA, we paid about 8%… nearly $75 on a $900 purchase). The SD card isn’t worth worrying about; you’ll want a larger one… and a 16G, class 10 card should cost about $25 at http://www.newegg.com

      Reply

  36. I am going to be purchasing either the T3i or T2. I am leaning more towards the T2 but wanted to know more about what kind of flash to purchase to use with the camera since it does not have the same as the T3i. I don’t need the articulating screen. I am new to photography and want to eventually do some freelance work. I believe the flash goes right on the top and goes off automatically. Is that correct? Or is there a remote need for the flash?
    Thanks

    Reply

    1. Hi Lisa,

      The T2i and the T3i both have very similar flash functionality most of the time: they both have a built-in, pop-up flash that you can either use automatically or manually, depending on your settings, and they both can use a variety of flashes on the hot-shoe on top of the camera… again, either automatically or manually, depending on your settings.

      The only major difference, when it comes to flash, is that if you have a separate flash (like the 430ex ii) and you want to use it off of the camera for more interesting lighting (from the side, or from behind), the T3i has wireless communication with it (via IR pre-flashes) and it will work just as well as if it were sitting on top of the camera in the hot shoe. The T2i does not have this feature, and either needs a wireless command module on the camera, or an additional 580ex flash on the camera.

      I personally find that the 430ex is a great value; it’s almost as powerful as the 580ex, if feature rich, and costs a lot less. Any Canon flash less expensive than the 430ex is going to give you very diminished power and features.

      If you think you might want to use off-camera flash (I do all the time for portraits and weddings), then you should consider the T3i instead. If you think you’ll be content with using natural light or on-camera flash (or will use another wireless trigger system), then go ahead and get the T2i, which is an outstanding camera.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  37. Thanks for the detailed comparisons between the T2i and T3i. I currently own a T2i, but am considering returning it to Costco in the next few months and upgrade to a T3i. I use the camera mostly for portraits and action shots of my children. I also own a Speedlite 580 EXII and have found the flash makes a big difference in the quality of my shots (especially indoors with florescent lighting). Despite all of your posts, I am still on the fence here… I like the improved video capabilities of the T3i and the built-in remote external flash trigger (although I have only used the flash to date on the camera). I am also still a little concerned about the speed of the T3i compared to the T2i (Amazon poster comment) despite the identical camera specs (action shots are very important to me with three kids in sports). I am somewhat neutral on the articulating LCD screen of the T3i. You mentioned you are not a fan of the articulating LCD…can you list all of your concerns. Are the screens similar (durability, glare, scratch issues, cleaning) with the exception of the swivel feature? Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Tim,

      Someone else was concerned by that Amazon review, so forgive me if I give the same reply, which was this: …at this point, I can only assume that there was a problem with that particular camera, not the model in general, since it is the only time that I’ve heard that complaint, and I certainly have not seen it myself. I have not done lab tests… but that said, plenty of people HAVE done tests (dpreview, for example), and the T3i has been either equivalent to or slightly faster than the T2i. This suggests that either the Amazon reviewer was not testing rigorously or that they had a defective T3i.

      If you shoot much video, I can certainly understand being more interested in the T3i :)

      As for articulated LCDs, my issues boil down to these:

      1. It adds more moving parts to the camera to break. For those of us who travel a lot in harsh environments, or hike, or shoot events in crowds, etc, where cameras can get pretty jostled, this is a serious concern.
      2. It adds a major inlet for collecting sand and dust. If you were to close the LCD with the face to the camera and get caught somewhere with blowing sand (I’ve had this problem at beaches, sand dunes, slot canyons…) the sand could easily be trapped between the lcd and the body and scratch it to death as you walk.

      Otherwise, the LCDs between the two cameras are basically identical… same resolution, surface, etc. In either case, I’d buy an optical glass cover for it (though with the T3i, this precludes shutting the LCD facing the body).

      Keep in mind, though, that I don’t shoot much in the way of video, so I also just have very little use for a swivel screen. If you shoot differently, perhaps your need for the future will outweigh the potential risks.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matthew,

        Thanks so much! We decided to stick with the T2i, since we will be buying a separate HD video camera with continuous autofocus capabilities and can live without the remote flash trigger. If we have the need for positioning our 580EXII off camera, what brand/model of wireless command module would you recommend? Hopefully the module is cheaper than a second 580EXII :) After trying out the articulated LCD on the D60, we have similar concerns. What brand of optical glass cover do you recommend for the LCD screen? Where can we buy these? Also, what lens glass filter brands/models do you recommend for the Canon EF-S 18-55mm and 55-250mm lenses? I have heard that the Canon brand may fit better than a brand such as Tiffen. I want the best LCD and lenses protector that I can buy.

        Tim

        Reply

        1. Tim,

          If I were going to spend money on a wireless controller, I probably wouldn’t buy the Canon system (though it is the least expensive). It works well, but the system is based on IR pre-flashes, so it doesn’t work unless your flash is in your line of sight, and has the sensor pointing the right direction… which is harder than it sounds when you’re in a crowd, or shooting at a wedding, etc.

          Instead, I’d go with something like the Pocket Wizard ETTL system, or the Radiopopper ETTL system. Both systems will give you the same amount of control over the flash, but at a greater distance, regardless of line of sight, in and full daylight. They are more expensive than just buying the Canon transmitter, though… a RadioPopper set costs about $500, and a set of Pocket Wizards costs about $420. (As opposed to the Canon ST-E2, for about $225) I have heard of two alternative systems that can be found on Ebay from China, called Phottix and Pixel, but I don’t have any experience with them myself. They are less expensive.

          As for the optical glass cover, I don’t have a particular brand recommendation, and I’ve never actually purchased one for a T2i. But something like this is what I had in mind.

          It may intuitively seem like a good idea to use something like a UV filter over your lenses, but I don’t recommend it. It’s much more likely to degrade your image quality than it is to protect your lens, even if you’re buying a multi-coated filter. The front element of your lens is shaped to direct the light through the rest of the optics without creating chromatic aberration, and having a flat piece of glass in front of it can disrupt that, not to mention causing more flare. I DO recommend buying rigid lens hoods for each of your lenses and using them all the time. Not only will they reduce flare and improve image quality, they will also protect your front element (to varying degrees, depending on the hood).

          – Matthew

          Reply

  38. I am thinking about buying the T3i. I have taken photography before but it’s been a while. I had the Canon EOS Rebel XS. I wanted to upgrade to a better camera. I love my camera but I want to be able to do more with it. I am hoping to be able to take portraits of my kids so I won’t need to keep taking them to professional photographers and they are charging so much money these days. Do you think this camera would work for me as far as taking the picture and the quality of the picture when it’s printed or blown up? Is there a specific lense that isn’t too expenseive that is good to use for portraits?
    Thank you for any advice that you have. Your messages above have been very helpful in trying to decide.

    Reply

    1. Hi Teagan,

      Yes, the camera itself (T3i) is certainly capable of taking professional quality photos. Actually, just about any digital SLR these days is, if you know what you’re doing. If you’re looking for studio quality photos, though, keep in mind that it’s not the camera that really matters… it’s the lighting, camera settings, and photographer. The lighting can be taken care of inexpensively (any flash, a light stand, and an umbrella will make a huge difference), but learning how to use them will take a little practice. I say this not to discourage you from buying the camera, it’s a great camera after all, but just as a quick reminder that no matter how good your camera, what makes the difference is how you use it.

      As for lenses… it really depends on what style of portraiture you like…. just about any lens can be used effectively for some type of portraiture. For traditional portraiture, lenses in the 70-200 range have generally been most popular (notably, 85mm, 100mm, 120mm). With the popularity of APS-C cameras like the T3i, 50mm lenses have become popular too… and the 50mm f1.8 is very inexpensive. However, if you let me know what kind of portraits you’re interested in, I might be able to point you in the right direction :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  39. Hi, Just found your site and best comparison between these two cameras I have seen. My question is about buying from a reliable source on the web. Has anyone bought from Certified Digital or AJ Richard ? They seem to have good reviews (mostly) and best pricing. Leery about the .com companies. Thanks for any replies

    Reply

    1. Hi Husker,

      I’ve read really bad reviews for both places, unfortunately… mostly about hidden charges, extra charges, shipping re-furbished instead of new equipment, rude/hard sales, etc. That said, I’ve never ordered from either one… the risk is yours :) .

      About Certified Digital:

      “SCAM! Grey Market/refurbished goods sold as new! Do not buy any camera or electronics from this company. I purchased a “new” Nikon d7000 from their site and paid for express, next day shipping. The item was confirmed in stock by a a member of their staff over the phone. The camera was not shipped out for almost a week. When the camera arrived The box was not sealed, it was missing the Nikon warranty, and several of the manuals that come with a new Nikon. Fearing this was a grey market camera I took the camera to a Nikon Certified repair center in my city and was told after inspection of the camera and the serial number it was a grey market import. As such it was not eligible for a nikon warranty, and per nikons policy could not ever be serviced or repaired by Nikon. Making matters worse the purchase price of the Camera was $1169 and when I looked at my card statement I was billed $1437! I have returned the camera and am disputing the charges with my credit card company. ”

      About AJ Richards:

      “They are TOTAL fraud. They didn’t ship all the items they were meant to. They charged my Credit card $800 extra.

      And then….funnily enough AJ Richard saw a review I wrote online and tried to pay me “$50, $60 or $100″ to take it off. Sorry!

      Their bad customer service would cost them fortunes to make it up and I am happier letting every other customer out there know that this company is a nightmare. The management are rude. Adam at Ext 238 is the worst customer service rep and will not solve your problem.
      Be careful, they will ship your order without everything in it. ”

      I find that it pays to stick with the trusted names in the business: Adorama, J&R, B&H, Amazon.com, Buy.com, etc. You know that you’ll be getting good equipment, at prices that are about the lowest reasonably possible.

      Reply

  40. Matthew,

    What do you think of this review I read on Amazon, in regards to the t3i being slower than the t2i:

    “I bought the T2i first, then decided to upgrade to the T3i. For a period of two weeks, I had both cameras in my possession, so I could make a direct comparison, and decided hands-down that the T2i is the one I will keep. Why? The T2i is FAST. I shoot my toddler in continuous mode, and the camera delivers the 3.7 fps it’s supposed to. It makes a huge difference knowing you can press the shutter and the camera will instantly take a picture. The T3i, however, adds frequent and unpredictable delays when “busy” flashes in the viewfinder and the red light is on — even in continuous mode.

    I used the same exact settings on both cameras (large Jpeg, P-mode, Quick AF). Compared to the instant responsiveness of the T2i, this was plain annoying and caused me to miss numerous shots. I used the same class 10 SDHC chip in both cameras, but — this is interesting — even without any memory chip in the camera, the delays are still there.”

    Reply

    1. Hi David,

      I’ve seen that feedback, and at this point, I can only assume that there was a problem with that particular camera, not the model in general, since it is the only time that I’ve heard that complaint, and I certainly have not seen it myself, though I have not done a side by side test. That said, plenty of people HAVE done tests (dpreview, for example), and the T3i has been either equivalent to or slightly faster than the T2i. This suggests that either the Amazon reviewer was not testing rigorously or that they had a defective T3i.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  41. Matthew, thank you for your detailed analysis. I had planned to purchase a T3i, but the company could not offer expedited shipping and the arrival date would have been one day after leaving for vacation. I bought a T2i this afternoon (knowing I could return it tomorrow if I went home and compared the two and hated it). I think it’s more than enough camera for me – family pictures, vacation, scrapbooking, things that lend to preserving personal memories. The kit I purchased included an 18-55 lens and a 75-250 (I think). Any other must haves? Any suggestions for crash courses in learning the camera in about a week? Thank you so much.

    Reply

    1. Hi Heather,

      It sounds like you have a good set of lenses; another good option is a 50mm f/1.8 . They cost a little over $100, but are great for low-light photography, and are very sharp.

      As for crash courses… there are two major areas of study: how to use the camera, and how to take good pictures. The former depends on how well you learn from different formats; some people can get by with reading the manual, otherwise, there are lots of good books out there: “Understanding Exposure” is a good one.

      Once you get the technical issues out of the way (sharp pictures, exposed properly), there’s still a lot to learn about composing good photos. The “Learn Photography” section on this site is a good start.

      Reply

  42. Which would be the better camera for digital filmmaking? I’m a film student in L.A. that cannot afford the Canon 5D or 7D and have initially looked at the T2i. Is the T3i better for filmmaking?

    Reply

    1. Hi Ryan,

      First, let me say that I don’t do a whole lot with video, so I’m probably not the best person to ask. That said, the T2i and T3i are very similar; they use the same sensor and processor, shoot the same frame-rates and format. The T3i does have a couple of advantages for video, though: it has some mattes for shooting in different aspect ratios, and digital zoom (which uses the same number of pixels on the sensor, but a smaller part of the sensor) which can help with the mosaic-ing and jell-o effects in some circumstances. And of course, it has the swivel screen, which some people find useful for video.

      The t3i does also have some in-camera processing that the T2i doesn’t have; though I don’t know if anyone would use it if they have more professional options. Those are a few things to keep in mind, though.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  43. Hi, Thank you for this review! I was wondering if you’d be able to recommend which camera would be best for me? I’m a beginner in photography and want to really get started in it. Primarily I want to take pictures of my kids, but also would like to use skills I would aquire do it professionally. I also plan on taking some photography classes as well. Which camera is best to start off with? The t3i, t2i or d5100? I prefer high image quality more than video.

    Thanks!!

    Reply

    1. Hi Maria,

      Sorry for the slow reply. I think that any of the three would be great starters; all three have excellent image quality. At high ISO, the Nikon’s images are slightly better than the Canons’, but when they’re high enough to make a significant difference, the image quality isn’t great on either of them). The resolution of the Canons is slightly higher, but again, it’s not very significant.

      The one selling point for me for the T3i is that it has wireless control of off-camera Canon flashes (without buying extra equipment). Learning how to use off-camera flash may not be at the top of your list, but it will make a dramatic difference in your photography when the time comes. Otherwise, I’d probably go with the T2i, since I’m not a big fan of articulated LCDs :)

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

  44. matthew,
    Thank you so much for your reply. I think I will go between T3i and T2i because I have a camcorder. If I can get cheaper price for T2i I will get it. Ortherwise, I may go for T3i.
    Thanks again,

    -Joan

    Reply

  45. Hi,
    I am a mom and want to buy a camera to take pictures and videos for my 2 boys. they paly sports. SO, I think speed and quality are very important to me. I am considering T3i, T2 i or Nickon D3100.
    Which one is good for me and not wasting extra money?
    Thanks,

    Reply

    1. Hi Joan,

      First of all, any of the three cameras that you mention would be all be fine… though the T3i and the Nikon D5100 are probably the most comparable. The D3100 is not my favorite, but it’s certainly still a nice camera.

      If video is important to you, keep in mind that none of these cameras will work as well as a normal video-camera, or even a point-and shoot, when it comes to focusing. Cameras like the Canon 7D and 5D MarkII are used to shoot TV shows and movies, but they’re used with manual focus, since AF is so slow and inaccurate.

      In this regard, the Nikon D5100 probably has the edge. It has better video auto-focus speed, and both the D3100 and D5100 have full-time autofocus for video, while the Canons do not.

      If you’re really interested in photography, I think that the T3i is a slightly better camera for photographers than the D5100, but they’re both excellent, and there are almost no differences between the two (the T3i has better control of off-camera flash units). The Canon 60D, which costs an extra $200 or so, has a superior autofocus system, but that may not make much difference to you.

      If you don’t care much about video, then the T2i is the best camera for the money.

      No matter which one you choose, it will take a little time to get used to the camera and make the most of it, but with a little practice, any of them would serve you well.

      Hope that helps a little; let me know if you need anything clarified.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  46. Hi Matthew, thank you for the comparison between T2i and T3i. I’m thinking of purchasing a T3i. But, I want to get only the body and buy a lens that would enable me shoot both wide angle as well as tele. I have a point and shoot Canon SD800. I really like it as I can do decent wide angle and tele (28-105mm).

    That said, I’d like at least the same wide angle and a better tele capability in my DSLR. With the 1.6 crop factor of T3i, please advise the specification of the lens I should buy. Is the Tamron “Zoom Super Wide Angle 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) Macro Lens for Canon Digital EOS” good one? After rebate it is selling for $239 in B&H.

    What about the image stabilization of the T3i model? Does it rely on the lens to have the image stabilization? The Tamron lens model I have mentioned above doesn’t have image stabilization. Would you recommend buying a lens with image stabilization? If you have an another lens in mind, please let me know. (I dont want to shell out too much money on the lens also)

    I have noticed even in my point-and-shoot that the SDHC card speed plays a crucial role in our ability to shoot pictures faster. It gets worse when we shoot with low-light settings. So, what is the SDHC card I should buy? Please advise on the capacity of the memory card also.

    Thank you for your help!

    Reply

    1. Hi Kannan,

      As far as focal lengths are concerned, the 18-200 range is probably what you’re looking for. That’s equivalent to about a 29mm-320mm, which is a pretty dramatic zoom ratio. It’s not terribly wide on the wide end, but it’s generally wide enough, and the telephoto end is right there too.

      However, I should say this: the larger the zoom range packed into one lens, the worse the image quality will be… especially when you’re talking about wide angle to telephoto (rather than short telephoto to long telephoto, for example). A lot of photographers these days switch over to SLRs because they want better image quality, but they still don’t want to change lenses… so they end up putting low quality glass in front of the camera, and as you know, image quality is only as good as the weakest link in the chain. The Tamron lens in particular has high distortion at the low end, and away from the center of the frame, the resolution is pretty low until you stop it down to f8 or so. This isn’t really much different than Canon’s or Nikon’s 18-200, though… they’re all lenses built for convenience rather than image quality. As long as you know what you’re getting and are willing to accept that (ie, are looking to take snap-shots, rather than making big enlargements), the Tamron will suit your purposes.

      With all Canon and Nikon SLRs, the image stabilization is in the lens rather than the body of the camera… and yes, since the Tamron has a max aperture of f/6.3 at the long end, it will perform poorly in low light.

      To get better image quality, you’d be much better off going with Canon’s 18-55 and 55-250 lenses, fwiw. If there’s a particular type of photography that you do a lot of, I might be able to give you a better recommendation, or take a look at the lens recommendations section ——>

      As far as SDHC cards are concerned, when it comes to speed, any Class 10 card will be just fine. In fact, even with Class 6 cards, there isn’t any real difference, but since Class 10 cards are so inexpensive these days, that’s probably the way to go. 16G cards are only about $27, and will hold several hundred or thousand photos, depending on whether you shoot RAW, jpg, or raw+jpg, etc. The slow down that you’ve noticed in low light on your point-and-shoot in low light is actually caused by two things: your camera has to apply more aggressive noise-reduction to the photo, and a photo with more noise is also a slightly larger file. Low light won’t make any difference with the T3i with respect to the card’s speed.

      Hope that helps a little :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Hi Matthew, thank you for the quick reply! I’ll most likely do a mix of portraits, family pictures, flowers, natural scenery and some wildlife (rare). Many-a-times, I’ll have to shoot in low-light (indoor). Do you think the canon 18-55 that comes with the kit will suit most of my needs? How will it do in low-light when compared to the Tamron I mentioned?

        Thanks again for your help!

        Reply

        1. The 18-55 basically converts to a 29-88mm, so the range will be a little shorter on the long end than your PnS, but not a whole lot.

          Since it’s an f/5.6 at the long end, it won’t be significantly better when it comes to the amount of light that it lets in, but since it is stabilized, it will be 3 or 4 f-stops better than the Tamron, as far as camera-movement is concerned. Image Stabilization doesn’t make any difference with subject movement, though. There will also be a significant advantage when it comes to image quality, over the Tamron lens.

          If you want a good low-light lens, though, the 50mm f/1.8 is really the most practical option for stopping motion in your subject. It only costs around $123, but lets in 3 1/3 f-stops more light than the f/5.6 on the zoom. ( 1 f-stop = twice as much light ). It’s also a good portrait lens, since it’s very sharp and gives you good, out-of-focus backgrounds to set-off your subject.

          Both lenses will be fine for flower close-ups, but neither is perfect for it.

          Reply

              1. No, they’re not at all. In fact, I recommend not using them at all, unless you’re in a shooting situation in which the front element is likely to get mud spattered on it, or something similar. Optically, it’s better not to use them… but you SHOULD always use a lens hood. They’re very important for protecting the front element from flare, and for protecting the lens from physical damage :)

  47. Hi, first let me say you do an amazing job at responding, I’ve read all the ones above. My question is, I just decided to finally purchase my first slr camera today. I’ve heard about the T2i, it’s in my price range and I’m highly impressed with it’s performance. Today I mentioned to an associate of mine who owns a Canon 7D that I was getting ready to buy a T3i, and he responded to get theT2i, that it’s pixels are as good as his 7D. I replied ok, but the T2i doesn’t have the swivel LCD which is a big seller to me as I’m mostly into video. His response was, but the T2i still better. Does this guy make any sense?

    Reply

    1. Hi CM,

      I can’t think of any way in which the T2i is better than the T3i except when it comes to cost… it is, of course, less expensive. Otherwise, the T3i really has the edge, where there’s an edge to be had. For the most part, and certainly in terms of photographic image quality, the cameras are identical… they do use the same sensor and image processor. The T3i does have some extra video effects and the swivel screen, so it’s the way to go if you’re into video. Keep in mind, though, that SLRs in general focus very slowly in video mode, so you may end up focusing manually.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  48. Hi I am a dentist looking for a camera to take portraits as well as close up (intra oral) photography. I was advised to buy the canon rebel with a 100 mmm lens. Should I consider the T2i or T3i?. I would like also to know your opinion concerning the Mets wireless ring flas instead of the canon one. thanks

    Reply

    1. Hello Bassel,

      It’s funny that you bring this up… I have an uncle who is a Dentist in Montana, and he’s raised some of the same questions.

      As far as image quality and ease of use is concerned, they are going to be pretty much identical. They’ll both provide very high quality images. I’m not sure exactly how you work, but I can see how the swivel screen of the T3i might come in handy on occasion, though you’re going to get better auto-focus performance if you look through the viewfinder instead… especially for close-up work, so I think the swivel screen will be of very limited use. If you’re going to be using off-camera flashes (or can imagine yourself considering it in the future) for taking portraits, then I’d go with the T3i. Otherwise, the T2i will be a great workhorse.

      The Canon 100mm 1:1 macro has been a great, industry standard lens for years… especially in the era of film, though the new IS model is truly excellent. The minimum focusing distance on the lens is around one foot; depending on what’s a comfortable working distance for you, you might find that a better option is the 60mm 1:1 macro lens, which will allow you to work a little closer to your subject (4″ or so).

      I must confess that I don’t have any personal experience with the Metz wireless ring flash; I’ve just taken a look at some information about it from the manufacturer, and it looks great… but of course it would. Metz does have a great reputation, and they’ve been around for a while. I suspect that either one will work well for you, though.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  49. I just found your review. It’s very informative and helps me decide. I am considering the body only. Do you know what come in the box? I look on amazon.com, but they don’t list either. I have an old film canon with two EF lenses that I can reuse. Thanks

    Reply

    1. Hi Ryker,

      Generally, if you have lenses, then when you buy the body, you’ll only need to buy SD cards to go along with it. You’ll get a battery and charger, bodycap, editing software, a strap, and a couple of cables… maybe a couple other little things, but those are the major ones. Sometimes scammers (in NY, anyway) will try to sell you the body at a really cheap price, and then try to sell you the rest of the stuff from the box at exorbitant rates… so don’t be fooled, that stuff comes in the box :)

      – Matt

      Reply

  50. after reading all the reviews about the T2i and T3i, I see that there are not much of differences bet. the two. My Father gave me he’s first SLR ( Konica Minolta AF7000 ) complete with all and manual, bought it 1987. I don’t really use it much, although it brings me a remarkable photos. However when it comes to developing films. The tendency of waiting is bit too long. I like shooting stills, and I wanted to be able to see the images asap. I am debating if I should get the T2i / T3i or maybe the Nikon D5100. I am a begginer. and I want to learn about DLSR. With that beeing said. Are these cameras has a simple easy functions for a begginer like me? perhaps some type of programs where I can set it easy. It will be my very first DLSR, and I want to make sure if buying one is really worth it. Thanks for your time..

    Reply

    1. Rex,

      If you want easy to use, there is nothing easier than a modern SLR. They can operate, for all practical purposes, like point-and-shoot cameras if you just turn to any of the automatic modes on the dial. The D5100 and the T3i are very evenly matched; I’d give a slight edge to the Canon because of it’s flash control, but otherwise, it could go either way… and they are both easy to use, yet powerful with a little more practice.

      I personally wouldn’t hesitate to buy a DSLR these days; the quality has generally surpassed 35mm film, and the ability to shoot so many more photos (more practice = better photos) is a big plus.

      The one advantage (for some photographers) for using an older camera is that it forces you to slow down and consider what you’re doing… taking time to focus, get the exposure right, get the composition right… because you have a limited number of shots, and your camera forces you. As long as you don’t give up on that mindset, shooting digital is a huge advantage.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  51. Wait, so the only difference from the T2i and the T3i is that the T3i has a movable screen?

    Reply

    1. Hi Alexander,

      It’s not the only difference, but it is one of the few significant differences. The T3i can also control off-camera flash with it’s pop-up flash, unlike the T2i… which is significant for those of us who use a significant amount of flash in our work. And the T3i has digital zoom for video (since it has an 18 megapixel sensor, it can crop down to the a smaller portion of the sensor, and still not have to up-sample the image… 1080p is only 2 megapixels, after all.) There are some other less significant (primarily post-processing related) changes, which I mention above, but the differences are minimal.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  52. Matthew,
    I was about to buy the T2i for around $920, but I realized that I can purchase the T3i for around $900 saving me $20 dollars. My friends have the T2i and the video quality is amazing. Does the T3i offer the same video quality? I will be shooting stills and using the video, and I am wondering which camera would be better suited for me. I shoot a lot of action sports (mainly skiing, and surfing) and I cant decide which camera to choose. I am swaying toward the T2i because I am not a big fan of the moving LCD display on the T3i. Although I am interested in the T3i because it is a newer model. I cant seem to find any differences in the video quality or image quality. What is your opinion on the cameras? Which one would be a better fit for me?

    Reply

    1. Hi Brooks,

      After the tsunami in Japan, the supply of a lot of Canon cameras has become unreliable, and a lot of them are sold out… so the places that are selling them now sometimes charge more. The T2i should be quite a bit less than the T3i. That said, the T3i is superior to the T2i in every way in which they differ… depending on your opinion of the articulated LCD. When it comes to video and image quality, they will be identical (same sensor, same processor), except that the T3i also allows for a high quality optical zoom, as described above. I’d lean towards the T3i for the simple reason that it can act as a wireless flash commander, while the T2i can’t… and I’d really only consider buying the T2i if you can find it for at least $100 less than the T3i.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  53. I have read elsewhere about very poor lag/shutter delays, and slow autofocus response. Particularly makes the T3i slow for sports, kids, animals? Apparently even makes it hard to get people’s expressions? Is this only with the LCD use, or also with viewfinder? And are they slower than other comparable camera makes?

    Also there appears to be a difference in the number of shots per battery – although basic specifications don’t seem to take into account whether one is using a lot of flash, and whether viewfinder or LCD screen. Since I travel in remote areas, the longevity of the battery is a concern.

    I take mostly stills – particularly people and their lifestyles and activities including festivals. At present I use Olympus 500 SLR but am considering a switch to Canon because I want to be able to use a Tamron/Sigma long zoom, and also get bigger memory cards.

    I would be grateful if you could comment on these two points. Thank you.

    Reply

    1. Hi Jane,

      When shooting in “Live View” mode, the T3i/T2i are quite slow when auto-focusing, because the mirror is locked up and the normal auto-focus system doesn’t work. Instead, the camera uses a slower system, called “contrast detection” (as opposed to phase-detection during normal operation). All Canon and Nikon cameras use this slower method of AF when using live-view and shooting video, though Nikon’s D7000 and D5100 tend to be a little faster than Canon, none of them are very fast. The exception to the rule is the Sony A55, which uses an unusual semi-transparent mirror system. I’ve never detected any significant problem with shutter lag on any SLR (at least, not in quite a few years); what sometimes seems to be lag can usually be attributed to the camera being set to the wrong AF mode, using mirror lock-up, etc…. so I wouldn’t worry about that too much.

      During normal operation (focusing through the optical viewfinder) the AF speed on the T3i is great, especially when using the center AF point. Better lenses will give you better responsiveness, too… lenses with USM motors focus faster, and lenses with larger max. apertures allow more light to reach the sensor and allow for faster focusing. You shouldn’t have any trouble capturing expressions, action, wildlife, etc. most of the time; the AF system isn’t as good as the 60D or 7D, of course, but it’s quite good for the price. Keep in mind that it’s the same AF system that’s used in the 5D Mark II, which is used successfully by professionals all over the world.

      Needless to say, using live view eats up quite a bit of battery power, and the T3i/T2i do use smaller batteries than the 60D, which is a great (and inexpensive) camera too. I haven’t given the T2i/3i serious use for long enough to know how long the batteries last in typical shooting situations, but there are quite a few users on the site here who use them, so perhaps they’ll be able to offer more insight there. Keep in mind that battery grips are available at very minimal cost for both cameras, and they can dramatically improve your battery life.

      Hope that helps :)
      Matthew

      Reply

  54. Mathew, Thank you for the helpful information you posted regarding the Canon Rebel Cameras. I really like the Cannon Rebel 3ti, but would also like to have wide angle capabilities. Is there a wide angle lense that can be used with this camera?

    Reply

    1. Hi Particia,

      Yes, there are several of them in fact… it’s just a matter of how wide you want to go. In fact, in addition to the wide angle lenses made by Canon, the T3i also supports lenses made by Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, and a few other 3rd party lens makers. In my “Lens Recommendations” section, to the right, I’ve listed a couple of my favorite wide angle zooms, but there are many others.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  55. My wife and I were looking to upgrade from a old Canon Rebel 2000 EOS 35mm. This review was very helpful. My only question is that I have two Quantaray AF lens that I’m not sure if they will be compatible with the T3i. Do you know if it will? I have heard that most canon’s are compatible with each other.

    Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Erik,

      Actually, all of Canon’s autofocus lenses will work on all of Canon’s autofocus bodies, regardless of age… and the same things is true of 3rd party lenses that are made for Canon EOS mount. I’ve used old lenses from the 1990s made by Sigma and Tokina on modern digital cameras, and they function as expected, so I can’t imagine that Quantaray would be any different… though I don’t have any personal experience with that brand. I think it’s a very safe bet that they will.

      That said, with the ability to see your images at the pixel level, you may find that you’re not quite as happy with the performance of the lenses on digital as you were on film; this isn’t exactly because the lens isn’t performing as well, but because you’re able to see the detail better (and there are issues related to using a sensor that is smaller than 35mm film, too).

      Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

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