Canon T3i vs 60D
Camera Comparisons
·5 min read

Canon Rebel T3i vs 60D : Who should buy the T3i?

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Is the Canon 60D Worth the Extra Cost?

Canon T3i vs 60D: The Canon T3i’s release so soon after that of the Canon 60D is cause for speculation. Canon seems to be exploring a fancy new business model in which they release a product and then shortly afterwards announce a similar, less expensive one that also has some slick new features, all but sealing the fate of the earlier product. We saw it happen with the Canon 1Ds Mark III and the subsequent 5D Mark II, then again (to a lesser degree) with the 5D Mark II and the Canon 7D (because of the latter’s superior AF system), with the 50D and subsequent Rebels T1i and T2i, and now it seems that the announcement of the Canon T3i threatens to do the same with the 60D. Let me say before anything else that the Canon 60D is still probably the superior camera, but it may be difficult for most entry level photographers to pass by the T3i to get to it. Let’s take a closer look at the details.

The Canon 60D was released into a market that was already dominated by the popular and inexpensive Canon Rebel T2i / 550D. The 60D, however, had dropped the magnesium alloy body of the 50D and previous x0D series models in favor of a lighter, consumer oriented polycarbonate body. It also sported the same 18 megapixel sensor as the T2i, the same ISO range, the same number of focus points, and the same video capabilities. To the average consumer, the major differences were that the 60D had a spiffy new articulated LCD, a somewhat sturdier feeling body, and slightly faster shooting frame rates and shutter speeds.  The 60D also had the often overlooked (by me) advantage of wireless strobe control without the addition of the Canon ST-E2 transmitter.

Canon 60D and T3i Articulated LCD, Rear View
Matthew Gore | Light And Matter Rear view of the Canon 60D (left) and Canon T3i (right). Both cameras now feature an articulated LCD.

Enter (4 months later) the Canon Rebel T3i (also known as the 600D). The latest incarnation of the Rebel appears on the scene with the same high resolution, articulated LCD as the 60D, integrated wireless strobe control, new shooting modes, a host of in-camera processing “creative” options, and perhaps most significantly in the video department are cropping mats (to preview different aspect ratios on the LCD while recording) and… digital zoom.

“Digital zoom” has always been a dirty word in the past; we’ve seen it on camcorders and point and shoot digital cameras since the end of the 1990s. Digital zoom traditionally has involved using the same captured information from the sensor and simply cropping in, basically magnifying a lower resolution portion of the frame, which caused a significant degradation of quality. So, if the full sensor captured 1 megapixel, for example, the cropped image might only be displaying a small portion of that information… perhaps .5 or .3 megapixels, but with the pixels enlarged to fill the screen.

The digital zoom of the Canon Rebel T3i is a different story, and it’s actually an ingenious use of the extraordinarily high resolution sensor designed for the still camera. The highest resolution that our HDTVs can display today is 1080p, which is 1920 x 1080 pixels, just a hair over 2 megapixels. The T3i’s sensor, as we know, is 18 megapixels, so even when the highest resolution video is captured, only a small part of the available information from the sensor is being used. Because the sensor has such high resolution, the digital zoom can simply make use of a smaller area of the sensor to capture the video, and there will still be plenty of receptors in the area to provide the full 2 megapixel resolution of 1080p.

Beyond the items mentioned above, the Canon T3i is very much like the T2i, which was already quite similar to the 60D. Take a look at the chart below to see the details:

Canon Rebel T3i Canon 60D Canon Rebel T2i / 550D
Canon Rebel T3i Canon EOS 60D
Amazon Price (body) $699 $999 $699
B&H Price
 $699 $949 $629
Body Material Polycarbonate, Fiberglass and Stainless Steel Polycarbonate, Aluminum, Fiberglass, and Stainless Steel Polycarbonate, Fiberglass and Stainless Steel
LCD Size / Resolution 3.0"
1,040,000 pixels		 3.0"
1,040,000 pixels		 3.0"
1,040,000 pixels
LCD Articulated? Yes Yes No
Sensor Size 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C)
Crop Factor 1.6x 1.6x 1.6x
Sensor Resolution 18 Megapixels 18 Megapixels 18 Megapixels
ISO Range 100-6400
+12800		 100-6400
+12800		 100-6400
+12800
Total AF Focus Points 9 9 9
Cross-Type AF Sensors 1 9 1
AF Light Level Range -.05 to +18 EV -.05 to +18 EV -.05 to +18 EV
Metering System 63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative
9% Center Weighted
4% Spot 		63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative
6.5% Center Weighted
2.8% Spot 		63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative
9% Center Weighted
4% Spot
Exposure Compensation 1/2 or 1/3 stops 1/2 or 1/3 stops via thumb dial 1/2 or 1/3 stops
Max Frame Rate : RAW (14-bit) 3.7 5.3 fps 3.7
Max Burst Duration RAW (at highest frame rate) 6 16 6
Max Burst Duration JPG (at highest frame rate) 34 58 34
Shutter Speed Range 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		 1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		 1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Maximum Flash Sync Shutter Speed (standard flash) 1/200th sec. 1/250th sec. 1/200th sec.
HD Video Resolutions 1080p, 720p 1080p, 720p 1080p, 720p
Available HD Video Frame Rates PAL and NTSC
24/25, 30 at 1080p
60 at 720p		 PAL and NTSC
24/25, 30 at 1080p
60 at 720p		 PAL and NTSC
24/25, 30 at 1080p
24/25, 30, 60 at 720p
Firmware Sidecar Available Under Development Available Under Development
Media Type SD / SDHC / SDXC SD / SDHC / SDXC SD / SDHC / SDXC
Weight 570g (including battery) 675g (body only) 530g (with battery and SD card)
Viewfinder Coverage 95%
0.87x magnification		 96% Frame,
.95x magnification		 95%
0.87x magnification
Built-In Wireless Strobe Control Yes Yes No

Benefits of the Canon 60D

In opening this article I mentioned that the Canon 60D is still a better camera than the T3i, but I may not have made it obvious in the following paragraphs, so let me explain why.

The Canon 60D will primarily benefit one type of photographer: the action photographer. Although the two cameras in question have the same number of focusing points, the points are not created equal. The T3i, like the T2i, has a single cross-type focusing point in the center, while all 9 of the 60D’s focusing points are cross-type, giving it faster and more reliable AF performance, especially for off-center subjects. To capture high speed objects, the 60D also features a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second and top flash sync speed of 1/250th, as opposed to the 1/4000th and 1/200th of the T3i. And while the T3i can capture 3.7 frames per second, the Canon 60D can manage 5.3, giving 60D shooters 3 extra pictures in every 2-second burst.

This is not to suggest that you can’t shoot action with the T3i; you can. You’ll simply have a higher percentage of good shots with the 60D.

I spent much of last evening playing around with a 60D and a T2i (I don’t have access to a T3i yet), and I find that the 60D really does feel significantly better in the hand. It feels solid and comfortable, and it also has the thumb wheel for exposure compensation, probably my favorite Canon feature of all time. Both cameras, however, feel much better than the top point and shoot, though, at least to my fingers. And there is also the fact that 60D shooters don’t have to tolerate having “REBEL” printed across the front of their cameras. How embarrassing for us Americans.

Conclusion

Because the 60D is so precariously perched between the powerhouse Canon 7D and the enormously popular Rebel series  (not to mention competition from the Nikon D7000), it’s not surprising that in the few months since it hit the shelves, its price has already dropped from $1100 to $899… just $100 more than the T3i (update 6/18/11: the price has since gone back down to $899 with an instant rebate, but the body only is hard to find in stock).  With only $100 difference in price, it seems almost foolish to pass up the 60D, unless:

  • you’ve never used a DLSR before and need the beginner features of the T3i (in camera guide and program shooting modes)
  • you plan to take a lot of video and really think you’ll use the T3i’s digital zoom or video snapshots
  • you primarily shoot portraits, landscapes, or moderate paced action and don’t want to spend $100 on features you won’t use.

You may also want to consider the Rebel T2i if the video features are not important to you (keep in mind that in all three cameras, video is primarily a manual-focus operation (though slow AF is available by pressing the shutter button half-way). If you don’t mind spending a couple hours with the manual, don’t care about an articulated LCD (or are concerned about its durability), the T2i is a virtually identical camera and the body costs a mere $675, at this point.

As usual, please let me know if you have any questions or comments!

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Matthew Gore
Editor-in-Chief
Matthew Gore is the Editor-in-Chief and Administrator of Light & Matter Media.
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222 Comments

  1. Buenas tardes, estaba apunto de comprar la t3i pero me resulto un amigo que queire vender la 60D de el mas barata, con un leten 16-200. Soy principiante y apenas quiero incursionar en el mundo de la fotografia, me gusta mucho fotografiar paisajes.

    Que me recomendarian.

    Reply

    1. Hola Daniel,

      La 60D puede ser la mejor camera de los dos, si quieres una camera mas rapida para coger fotos de acción. Si quires tomar video, la mejor camera el la T3i porque si quieres usar el enfoque digital. Yo recomiendo el 60D porque tiene el mejor foco automatico y es mas rapido. La lente EF-S 18-200mm es una lente general que le servira bien.

      Si tienes otras preguntas, no dude en preguntar.

      — Alfred Lopez

      Reply

  2. I am looking to purchase a new camera to take pictures and videos of my daughter playing fast pitch softball. I can’t decide between the T3i and the 60D. If I bundle the camera I get the 55-250mm IS II lens and save $150.00. With that being said which camera would you recommend?

    Reply

    1. I’d go with the 60D… it’s a significantly better camera for action (faster and longer bursts, better AF system) and along with it, I’d go for the STM version of the 55-250; it’s a much faster focusing lens, and will also be quieter if you’re shooting video. That said, either of them should be just fine… especially during daylight games.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  3. Hello,

    I have recently been exploring Concert Photography. I have been doing it for a little over a year now with a basic point and shoot and am now ready to buy my first DSLR. I just bought a Canon Rebel T3i and had been battling back and forth between the Canon EOS 60D and the Canon Rebel T3i and decided on the Rebel. I shoot both indoor and outdoor. I have started to get photo passes, but a lot of my shows still are not which I will use the point and shoot I have for that. With Concert Photography as my main objective- did I make the right choice in your opinion by going with the Rebel? I figured since this was my first DSLR it would be a good start.

    Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Kendra,

      The 60D does have some advantages when it comes to the autofocus system and overall speed, but in terms of image quality, you’ll get the same image quality with the T3i as you would with the 60D, as long as you’re shooting RAW files instead of JPG (and you should be, especially in low light).

      The big advantage of the Rebel in your case is that it leaves you more money to spend on the proper lenses, and for what you’re doing, the lenses are more important than anything. For shooting concerts in low light, it’s a huge advantage to have large aperture lenses like…

      the 50mm f/1.8 (cheap) or 50mm f/1.4 (not so cheap)

      the 85mm f/1.8 (not too expensive, better reach than a 50mm)

      the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 (pricey, but maybe the best zoom lens ever made for an APS-C sensor).

      And any good 70-200mm f/2.8

      All of these lenses will give you dramatically more light to work with than a kit zoom lens, so you’ll get less motion blur or less digital noise (or both).

      Good luck! I love concert photography myself :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  4. Hey Matthew,

    Thank you for very helpful written review!

    Which one would you suggest if I will use more ofter for taking Full HD videos? What is your suggestions?

    Thanks :)

    Reply

    1. Hi Sean,

      Sorry for the delay. For full HD video, they both are going to perform about the same. The T3i does have the advantage of a non-lossy digital zoom, but that may or may not be of interest to everyone. The important thing is that both cameras support the Magic Lantern side-car firmware, which dramatically improves the functionality of the camera for use in shooting professional video.

      My recommendation would be to buy the T3i and spend the money you save on lenses, but I also don’t do much in the way of shooting video, so I’m probably not the best person to ask :)

      As Ever,

      Matthew Gore

      Reply

  5. I’m very much interested in learning photography. My googling skills has revealed that for t3i or any other rebel, it’s really hard to configure ISO, Aperture and shutter speed where as for 60D you just have more custom buttons and wheels. Thought 60D will put a hole in my wallet, I don’t want to get frustrated with controls in the long run. Are there any budget canon camera out there which has such button and wheels to adjust iso and other configurations?.

    Reply

    1. Hi Jijo,

      Unfortunately, this is a trend with all SLR manufacturers right now; to simplify the appearance of SLRs for beginners, they remove the buttons and dials that people don’t use much and move them into the electronic menus. All of Canon’s cameras below the 60D/70D level are like that.

      However, it’s not quite as bad as you might think. If you take a look at the back of the T3i, you’ll notice that there’s a “Q” button. Pressing that will bring up all of those main settings, where they can then be changed with just a couple of clicks of the menu buttons. Alternately, you could go with the T4i, which has a touch screen so you can change those settings directly.

      I’ve always preferred using a full size camera like the 60D or 70D, which has an LCD on top to show me my settings all the time, and buttons to change them quickly… but my advice has always been: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and the best lenses that you can afford. :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  6. I am trying to decide between these two cameras. I am a mom and would use this for the purpose of taking photos of my kids, macro, landscape. Would the t3i be okay for this?

    Reply

    1. Hi Cindy,

      Yes, it sounds like the T3i would be a great choice for you. The 60D has some advantages when it comes to shooting sports and high speed action, but it sounds like that’s not your main goal. As you may already know, since the T3i is a couple of years old, the price has dropped quite a bit… and the nice thing is that the KIT price (including the 18-55mm lens) is only $10 more than the body alone!

      That said, if you’re interested in macro work, you’ll want to invest in an appropriate lens at some point. Probably the best option is Canon’s 60mm Macro. In the meantime, though, there are plenty of less expensive options (if you’re interested in high magnification macro work), like extension tubes and close-up filters.

      Hope that helps!

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Right now I have a Canon Powershot G12 and am having issues with my son’s baseball. I think the g12 continuous is 2 fps.

        Reply

        1. The T3i will give you about twice that frame rate, and more importantly, it will give you much longer continuous bursts (34 shots, if you shoot JPG), faster focusing, and less shutter-lag… the camera will be much more responsive. Of course, the same is true of the 60D, and you’ll get a higher frame rate (about 1 fps more) and an autofocus system that is a little more reliable for off-center subjects.

          Considering that the 60D body alone is about $200 more than the T3i, you’ll have to decide whether the limited increase in performance is worth the extra money to you.

          My general advice to anyone buying a camera is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will get meet your needs and the best lenses that you can afford. The lenses are much more important and they will last you longer. That difference in price will get you much closer to affording a telephoto lens for sports like the 70-300 IS USM or the 60mm Macro.

          – Matt

          Reply

  7. Hi Matthew,
    First of all, very nicely written review. Very helpful!

    I am thinking of getting the 60D (Body Only) myself. I currently have a Rebel T3 and shoot primarily with the 28-135 lens. It takes great portraits but I feel like I have outgrown the T3 (not the “i” series) and need to invest in something of better quality. I shoot mostly portrait pictures. What is your suggestion on this switch? Any other suggestions would be great too!

    Thanks again and Mahalo from Hawaii!

    Reply

    1. Hi Christina,

      Sorry for the delay… it’s that time of year :)

      I guess the real question is why you feel like you’ve outgrown the T3. If you’re looking for better image quality (higher resolution), than any of the “i” models will give you a modest increase, and the T5i, 60D or 70D will give you improved autofocus as well.

      My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will fulfill your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford… so, I’d probably recommend the step up to the T5i and you might want to think about a dedicated portrait lens, too… the Canon 85mm f/1.8 is an excellent option, and not outrageously expensive.

      If you’re looking for a camera that will give you better performance for shooting action and sports, the 60D or 70D (particularly if you like to shoot video) are also great options.

      – Matt

      Reply

    2. Thank you sooo much. I think for now I will go with the T3i and then down the line after I have learned what there is to learn I will go with a higher end camera. Keep up the great work.

      Reply

  8. I own a Canon 60D and this is my first DSLR camera but I can add one extra point about canon 60D that have not mentioned here that is canon 60D do have a excellent user access to all its function and really very easy to operate. Still there is many feature that I need to study about this camera but till now I can say this is the device you are looking for if you want to go for extreme photography with limited budget.

    thanks.

    Reply

    1. Hi Sazzad,

      Good point; I agree that the Canon 60D is very easy to use… but I’ve been using Canon SLRs for 20 years, so I usually leave my judgement on that matter out, since it’s a little subjective. On many entry-level models, advanced features are buried in sub-menues because camera manufacturers assume (correctly) that most people won’t use them… so for photographers who will use them, higher level bodies tend to be easier and more intuitive.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  9. Should i trade my 50D with a t3i ?

    (congrats on the review on both cameras !!! the best one i´ve found)

    Thanks !!

    Reply

    1. That’s a tricky question. The 50D has some advantages, being a higher level camera, but the T3i is a bit newer and has a couple of technological improvements. I guess it depends on which are more important to you.

      The 50D can shoot at a faster frame rate, faster shutter speed (1/8000th), faster flash sync (1/250th), and of course, it has a metal body.

      The T3i has slightly higher resolution, but it’s also a newer sensor with less digital noise and higher ISO, and of course, video.

      If you’re an action shooter, the 50D still might be the best option for you… otherwise the T2i – t5i might be better :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

  11. gracias por tu respuesta! Lo que quisiera saber es el tiempo de vida de la canon t3i, tengo entendido que la 60d tiene hasta 100.000 disparos, es por eso que estoy pensando en cambiarme a esa camara. La t3i tiene menor tiempo util? gracias

    Reply

    1. Luciana,

      The shutter module of the T3i is rated at 100,000 shots, too. However, there are a few important things to keep in mind:

      • that doesn’t mean that your shutter will fail at 100,000 shots. It might go on longer.
      • that doesn’t mean that something else won’t fail first! I had an aperture control module go bad on a Nikon after about 20,000 shots, less than half the expected life of the shutter.
      • if your shutter module goes bad, you might be able to have it replaced for a few hundred dollars. It depends on the camera, and I’m not sure about the T3i.
      • I shoot a lot of pictures, and I’ve never come close to wearing out a shutter. Even if you shoot 100 pictures per day for 1000 days, that is almost 3 years of use… and I don’t know any amateurs who shoot that much. And if you’re a pro, you’ll certainly want a new camera after three years :)

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

       

      Reply

  12. Hola, como estas?muy bueno tu artículo. Tengo una consulta para hacerte. Tengo una canon t3i, y quiero cambiarme a una 60d por cuestiones de que tengo entendido de que la bateria le dura mas tiempo y la 60d tiene mas tiempo de vida.. Eso es cierto? Se que ambas cámaras tienen similares caracteristicas, lo que estoy buscando es una cámara que me dure años.. La t3i siento que es como una cámara descartable. Gracias!!!

    Reply

    1. Hola Luciana,

      The 60D does have a much nicer, more solid feeling to it, and it also has a superior auto-focus system and significantly longer battery life. So, it sounds like the 60D would be a good choice for you.

      Another option, though, would be to buy a battery grip for your current camera. Something like this batter grip for the T3i would double your battery life, and it also gives the camera better balance and a more professional look and feel… and it’s a lot less expensive than buying a new body.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  13. Hi Matthew,
    I am planning to buy a 60D or a t3i to photograph my artwork (oil paintings). I am moving up to a DSLR because I need a camera with a larger sensor to be able to offer large prints sizes. Based on your article, I am leaning towards the t3i because I have never used a DLSR before and think I might need the beginner features of the T3i.
    Do you think the Canon 50/2.5 macro lens would be a choice to photograph paintings? The paintings range from small 8×10 to large 30×40.
    Thank you!
    Jamie

    Reply

    1. Hi Jamie,

      First, the T3i or the 60D will work equally well for your project, so the T3i sounds like a good plan.

      Canon’s 50mm f/2.5 Macro is a great older lens; nice and sharp, and it should work nicely for you, and it has the advantage of also working on a full-frame camera, should you ever have that need in the future.

      Alternately, there’s the 60mm f/2.8 Macro, which is a more modern lens and also has excellent optics, but it’s quite a bit more expensive… so the 50mm seems like the way to go.

      The important thing when photographing paintings is to keep the plane of the sensor parallel with the plane of the artwork so that you don’t get distortion that needs correcting.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  14. I have a question. My wife most recently had a T3 rebel. Unfortunatly it was stolen on a recent trip to Malaysia. I upgraded her to a 60d with a 70-300mm IS USM telephoto lens. Well, her parents just bought her a Rebel T3i as a gift to replace her stolen camara. Should I take the 60d back as both camaras are basically the same or just keep both? I guess we could put the 50mm 1.8 portrait lens on one and the telephoto on the other.

    Reply

    1. Hi PJ,

      As a professional photographer, I always have at least 2 camera bodies so that I’m not out of commission if one of them dies (it has happened once, so far).  When I’m shooting events, it’s also convenient to have a wide angle lens on one body and a telephoto on the other; I can then switch between the two very quickly while maintaining high image quality (as opposed to using an all-in-one zoom, which does not).

      However, it sounds as though your wife is more of a hobbyist, so considerations are a little different. My general advice for buying camera equipment is to buy the least expensive body that will fulfill your needs, and then buy the best lenses that you can afford. In your case, I’d select the camera body that fulfills your (or you wife’s) needs, and trade in the other for a nice wide-angle lens.  A large aperture prime would be a good choice, or probably even better would be a large aperture zoom… like Sigma’s 17-50 f/2.8 .

      As to which camera to keep… the 60D does have a better autofocus system and it has a faster frame rate and longer battery life, along with a couple other differences. These may or may not be important to you, though… the decision will ultimately depend on your wife’s photographic interests and shooting style.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  15. Great article, and the Q&A is equally helpful!

    I am purchasing my first DSLR. I am a hobbyist, but have felt limited by my Lumix especially when it comes to leveraging DOF to get better pictures (love the park series of photos in this article!). I do lots of candids, portraits, and nature photography – birds, flowers, and soon, whale watches. I’m pretty sure the 60D is for me – the faster shutter speed will help with whale watches – but can you recommend a set of lenses for this beginner? From the discussions above, I think the 50mm/f1.8 is a must for the portraits, and I am taking to heart your cautions about the lenses with really wide ranges. I rarely use a tripod. Thoughts? I am trying not to overspend at the beginning, but really don’t want to miss those breaching whales!

    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Deb

    Reply

    1. Hi Deb,

      The 60D is a great camera… and you might also consider the T4i, which is a little smaller and lighter. I prefer a larger camera, but some people prefer something more compact. My general advice is to buy the least expensive camera that will fulfill your needs, and then buy the best lenses that you can afford, since a) the lenses usually play a more important role in your image quality and b) your lenses will stay with you a lot longer than your camera body. (I compared the 60D and T4i here).

      That said, I agree… the 50mm f/1.8 is a great lens for anyone to have, especially for low-light situations. It’s  not as good as the 85mm f/1.8 for portraits, but it’s a lot less expensive, and it’s great for street photography and other candid situations.

      Personally, I like to carry two lenses: one wide angle to mid range, and one mid-range to telephoto. (like an 18-55 and 70-200 or 55-250 or 70-300).

      For distance shooting, like wildlife… the 70-300 IS USM (not the 75-300) is a great lens, for the price. Great optical quality, and a moderately fast USM motor for responsive focusing, and the 300mm end of the zoom range will get you close to the action.

      You can then pair that with the relatively cheap (but optically good) canon kit lens… the 18-55mm, or if you’re looking for a more expensive lens, the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8, which is much better in low-light.

      Alternately, if you’re looking for something more convenient, I think that the new Canon 18-135mm STM lens (not the old model) is a great option. It is optically quite good, and covers the range from wide angle to telephoto very nicely, even if it’s only a moderate telephoto (it’s about the same as a 200mm lens on an old 35mm camera).

      But lens choice is a very personal thing; a lot of it depends on your own taste and shooting style. Hope that gives you some direction, though.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      2. Hello again! I’ve had the 60D for over a year now and I LOVE it!! My primary use of the camera has changed, however, since I first sought your advice. I have a cake decorating business (www.SensationalCakesAndMore.com) and about 95% of my photos are of cakes and cake pops. I have the EFS 18-135 kit lens, and it does a great job most of the time but it’s really limiting in the macro range. I don’t want to overspend and buy more lens than I need, but I don’t want to cheap out and be disappointed, taking into consideration your advice to invest in good lenses. A friend recommended a 50mm prime lens – I think it was a 2.8? – but I was hoping to get your take on a recommendation that might help me step up my game a bit in the macro range.

        Other things to consider – sometimes I’m struggling with low light and horrible backgrounds… I need to get a new tripod to address the low light situation (after all, cakes don’t move that quickly); I bought a cheap one and it’s flimsy and difficult to set up and adjust so I never use it. Control over DOF is important to me to minimize the backgrounds when I’m taking pictures in reception halls.

        Any advice you can provide is appreciated!

        Reply

        1. Hi Deb,

          As Alfred mentioned, the Canon 50mm f/2.5 and the Canon 60mm f/2.8 are both great macro lenses… you’ll be able to capture every tiny detail that you want. The 50mm has a couple of advantages: 1) it only costs $299 and 2) it will fit on a full-frame camera body if you ever decide to buy a 5D or 6D. However, it’s a much much older lens design, a bit slow to focus, and the resolution isn’t quite as high as a more modern lens (though this might only be laboratory relevant). I agree that you’d be happy with the Canon 60mm, but you’d also do well with the Sigma 50mm f/2.8 Macro (which is much newer than the Canon 50mm and optimized for digital rather than film).

          The f/2.8 aperture on any of these will help you get some nicely out-of-focus backgrounds, especially when you’re close to your subject, but remember that there are two factors that will give you a shallower DOF:  1) large aperture and 2) long focal length… so, a 100mm Macro lens at f/2.8 will give you a much more blurry background than a 50mm lens will at f/2.8. However, you’ll know from using your current zoom lens that at 100mm, you may have to stand a good distance away to be able to frame the image how you want. If you decide to go for a 100mm, though, the Canon 100mm f/2.8 IS Macro is awesome, and so is the Sigma 105mm Macro. They’re both substantially more expensive than the shorter lenses mentioned before.

          A good tripod is hard to find, and will really come down to a matter of preferences. I like to work with a carbon fiber tripod because they’re light, and I like flip-lock legs rather than twist lock. I also prefer a 3-section leg rather than a 4-section because it’s fewer locks to play with while setting up and tends to be more sturdy… even though a 4 section may fold up smaller.  This Manfrotto fits my specs perfectly, and this Giottos is not far behind. A much cheaper aluminum option would be the Manfrotto 190XB.

          Whatever legs you choose, a good ball-head will make your life a lot easier, with just one knob to twist and lock down to re-frame your image. There are a million to choose from, but Vanguard makes heads that are relatively cheap and great quality. I own this one, and it’s great: the Vanguard 250 (but the smaller Vanguard 100 would probably be just as good).

          Good luck! Let me know if you have any more questions… I might be able to help you narrow things down :)

          – Matthew

          Reply

        2. Hey Deb,

          Allow me to put in my 2 cents (especially since Matt is sleeping at the time of this writing :-)). I haven’t used the EF 50mm f/2.5 macro so I cannot speak to the image quality, but I can talk about the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro. The 60mm macro renders beautifully sharp images and really nice bokeh. I’ve used this lens, not only for macro work, but for portraiture as well. It’s a bit more expensive than the EF 50mm though, but I think you get a better lens. On the other hand, the EF 50mm has the advantage that you can use it on a full-frame camera, should you decide to upgrade to a 6D or a 5D. The EF-S 60mm only fits APS-C cameras like the 60D. You may want to rent both and see how each performs, but if you decide to go with the EF-S 60mm, you won’t be disappointed.

          In regards to tripod…yes, get a nice sturdy on that allows flexibility with positioning (to get to hard to reach places, etc). You will spend a few hundred dollars, but you can be sure that your camera will not fall off of these. In general, you’ll be buying a “tripod system”: the tripod legs and attacheable head. These are usually sold separately since you can interchange heads for different functions. I have the Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod with the 496RC2 compact ball head with quick release.

          Hope this helps a bit,

          Cheers,

          Alfred Lopez

          Reply

  16. Hello Mathew,
    I am an amature photographer and skateboard filmer. I have been directed to the 60D and T3i countless times and now that i am looking into getting a new camera/ video camera i decided that I should get the T3i because of its better video features. After reading this I’m not sure if I really should. It seems the 60D would be a better choice especially because i take a lot of pictures and plus its video capabilities are not far off from the T3i too.

    I was also looking into getting a newer version of the Sony Handycam instead of one of these since I have been using a Nikon D5000 for a while and could continue using it for pictures only.

    I would really like your opinion on this matter.
    Thanks in advance!

    Alex

    Reply

    1. Hi Alex,

      I hate to make the decision more difficult for you, but two days ago, the Canon T4i was announced, and it’s significantly improved over the T3i; it has a better auto-focus system, faster shooting, and perhaps most importantly, it has hybrid phase detect auto-focus while shooting video. With the T3i (and other Canon cameras), you really have to rely on manual focus while shooting video… and most serious film makers like to do that anyway, but the AF is too slow to be worth using for anything except still subjects. The T4i changes that; and although I haven’t used on yet, the promise is that we’ll see something like SLR focusing speed for video.

      So, I’d throw the T3i out of contention here (unless money is an issue… it’s price has dropped with the announcement of the T4i). For still, the 60D is still slightly better but not much. The video differences between the 60D and T3i are minimal (mostly just the “digital zoom” on the T3i).

      Keep in mind… I don’t do a whole lot with video, myself. If you get a Handycam, though, you’ll find it easier to work with than an SLR, but you won’t get the Cinema Style footage with shallow depth of field, etc… the sensor will just be too small… so it really just depends on what you’re going for. The T4i seems like a good compromise between the two, and it should be available in a couple weeks: Canon T4i PreOrder

      – Matt

      Reply

      1. YES! Thanks a lot! The T4i seems to be exactly what i wanted. It is a little pricey though, so I’m probably going to have to wait a bit to get it. I actually have a very old Handycam, but the options are very limited and i hate that. So i am trying to avoid another one if possible.

        Well thanks a bunch Mathew! It looks like the T4i would be the way to go

        Reply

  17. Matthew

    Thanks for a great website…it’s been bookmarked. :)

    Anyway, I’m looking to upgrade to my very first DSLR. I bought a Panasonic Lumix FZ35 a few years back….I like a lot of ZOOM. I’m a hunter and enjoy taking wildlife photos, landscapes, DIY projects and SOME video. I was looking at the T3i but then began wondering if I should go ahead and invest the extra couple hundred bucks in the 60D. The slower shooting speed of the T3i concerns me but I also get hung up that it is considered superior (video-wise) over the 60D.

    We are going on an Alaskan cruise this August. This has really gotten me kicked into high gear for a camera purchase. I’m also hung up on which lense(s) to buy. I was looking at the Tamron 18-270 Piezo drive lense for an all around walking lense. I also would like something with some reach, possibly the 200-500mm Tamron….its just a tad on the expensive side for me. Do these sound like wise choices for the type of photography I enjoy?

    Thanks
    Donnie

    Reply

    1. Hi Donnie,

      There are lots of great SLRs out there these days; I personally find that the 60D is worth the extra little bit of money for the shooting speed and superior auto-focus system. The only real advantage that the T3i has (when it comes to video) is that it has “digital zoom”. If you think you’d use it, it’s worth considering.

      As a general rule, I do not recommend “all in one” type lenses. The more zoom range that a single lens has, the harder it is to get great image quality at any particular point in that range… so usually, an 18-55 and 55-250 lens will give you much better image quality than an 18-250 lens.

      Obviously, for some people, slightly lower image quality is acceptable, give the convenience of only having to carry a single lens, but that’s a matter of personal priorities.

      Specifically, the Tamron 18-270 has mediocre (at best) resolution at the long end of the zoom, and very heavy barrel distortion at the wide-angle end of it. I suspect that you’d be disappointed with the image quality, especially for wildlife photos. The Canon 70-300mm IS USM (not the 75-300) might be a better choice for that range.

      Off topic a bit… there’s a new camera, the Pentax K-30 that you might also want to consider. It’s fast and has a great sensor, but the body is also weather sealed; it can take a pretty serious dunking in water, in fact. If you spend a lot of time in the field hunting/fishing/hiking, it’s worth considering as well, and it’s not too expensive: $850. The downside is that you won’t have all of the lens choices that you would have for a Canon or Nikon.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matthew

        Thanks for your quick response. I just checked out the Pentak K-30 and she’s a beaut but won’t be available until sometime in July. I leave mid-August and want at least a couple months worth of practice with my very first DSLR. Basically, I don’t want to have to solely rely on AUTO mode while in Alaska. But thanks for the recommendation…that would have fit my needs exactly. I’ll just continue to be cautious with my camera equipment near H2O. :)

        I’m really at a loss if I should buy the 60D or T3i….I keep going back and forth. Would the T3i be a good camera for capturing birds in flight? Seems like I’m looking for reasons NOT to buy the 60D….maybe it was because I had my heart set on it before I looked into the 60D.

        Would that 70-300mm be sufficient as an “all around” lense for Alaska? I’d like a lense that I can reach out and get pics of whales but also close up shots of myself or my wife while on the boat (fish poses etc) .

        Thanks
        Donnie

        Reply

        1. The 60D would be better for catching birds in flight, but the 7D would be a significant improvement over the 60D. The T3i is not really ideal for that sort of work, but it will work most of the time.

          As for the 70-300… I’m not really sure how to answer the question. The truth is, no matter what lens you have, you’ll sometimes want a longer one. If you’re shooting with a 200 you’ll want a 400, if you have a 400, you’ll want a 600mm, etc. The 70-300 is not a wide angle lens at all; so you’d probably also need something to cover that range (the 18-55mm kit lens is actually quite good). It does cover a pretty good, long zoom range, though, and all of it with really good optical quality.  A 100-400 or 150-500 (etc) would obviously give you more zoom, but you’d really need to shoot from a tripod or monopod most of the time to get decent image quality… and it sounds like that’s not really going to fit your shooting style.

          – Matt

          Reply

          1. Thanks again for the reply.

            I’ve encountered another dilemma. What is your opinion of the Sony A57 when compared with the Canon 60D? It seems to be a better camera. Only thing I don’t like is the EVF but I’ve yet to see it up close.

            Reply

            1. It certainly has its advantages. You might take a look at my comparison of the T3i and the a55; at least, it’s frame rate is higher, and it does have the advantages of the pellicle mirror system.

              There are a few considerations to keep in mind. First, you’ve mentioned the EVF. I don’t actually mind looking at an EVF rather that an optical viewfinder as much as I thought, but the major drawback is the battery drain. The EVF itself actually consumes more power than the LCD on the back of the camera… and I’m sure you understand how quickly batteries are drained by something like that. It’s fine if you’re shooting a lot of pictures in a short period of time, but if you’re shooting pictures over a longer period, battery drain is a significant issue.

              The autofocus systems are actually pretty comparable, with the edge going to the 60D probably. Only 3 of the AF points in the Sony are cross type, while all 9 in the Canon are. A cross type AF point is twice as likely to pull focus, especially in difficult conditions.

              You’ll also want to consider lens availability. Sony does have a line of Zeiss lenses that are quite good, but in general, Canon lenses have a better reputation than the Konica/Minolta/Sony lenses. Of course, many 3rd party lenses are available for Sony, and it has the advantage of in-camera image stabilization, so you don’t need to pay for it in the lens.

              I see that the Sony a57 is a bit less expensive ($699) than the 60D, which will allow you to spend a bit more on lenses, which is always an advantage. I’d recommend either one, depending on your shooting style.  You might also consider the Sony a65, which is the mid-line model (replacing the a55), and about the same price as the 60D.

              – Matthew

              Reply

              1. Researching takes one helluva burden on me. Its so frustrating trying to buy something that will serve me well.

                I think the Canon 60D will suit me just fine. I went to a shop today and held both the 60D and Nikon 7000 just to give each a fair comparison. I’m a little dissappointed the Nikon shot a little faster than the 60D especially since I’m so set on buying a Canon.

                You make a good point about lens availability. Would a future firmware update make the 60D shoot faster? I have no clue.

              2. Hey Donnie,

                I  know what you mean about the research taking its toll :) Keep in mind, though, that any of the cameras that you’ve mentioned will be great purchases… it’s much more important to get familiar with the camera and the basics of photography and exposure than to pick the camera with the perfect specs. Most of the perceived differences are really just not very important.

                That said, if you’ve seen my article here comparing the 60D and the Nikon D7000, you’ve seen that I’d lean towards the D7000. It’s a great camera, and the sensor noise is slightly less of a problem than on the Canons we’ve talked about.

                – Matthew

    2. I’ve checked out the Nikon 7000 but still tend to favor the Canon. Important factors for me are the articulating screen and video.

      Checked out the Sony A57 today. Man, that thing is FAST!!! Didn’t like the EVF or the screen that only folds down and not off to the side.

      One more question regarding the 60D. Is it silly for me to purchase a camera that was released going on 2 years now? Is it worth waiting for something else? However, the whole point is my Alaska trip. It just seems the camera is a tad bit out-dated.

      Reply

      1. The 60D is a couple years old, but it performs well… and it’s still going to perform well in a few years. There are always going to be minor improvements and features added to new cameras; I suspect that the Canon T4i will have a touch-screen, for example… but the differences that are critical to your photography will mostly be minor. The newer sensors may have better high-ISO performance, and I suspect that the new Canons will have something like the Nikon D7000’s ability to focus continuously while shooting video.

        But you’ll always be able to wait and get something better in the future; it’s MUCH more important to get familiar with your camera and (most importantly) practice and learn the fundamentals of photography. A good camera doesn’t take good pictures in the hands of a novice photographer… it’s the photographer that really matters.

        – Matt

         

        Reply

        1. Matthew

          I apologize for posting this here in the 60D vs T3i article but wanted to get your valued opinion. I’ve changed my mind again. You can delete this if you feel necessary.

          I’m an up and coming hobbyist photographer. I want to master the camera controls and not have to rely on AUTO mode. I’m looking to upgrade from my Lumix FZ35. I am a hunter and enjoy taking photos of the animals I pursue. One thing I like about the Lumix is that I have room to fit into my hunting pack. BUT I need something faster and with better image quality.
          As of yesterday, I had finally decided on the Canon 60D and was planning to buy tomorrow. Then I looked into the mirrorless systems and became intrigued by their smaller size and comparable IQ. AND here we go again. I’m tired of the research but now I have even more ahead of me since I hadn’t considered a Micro 4/3rd / mirrorless.
          The main reason for this upgrade is our upcoming Alaskan cruise. Got to thinking that I would probably get tired of lugging around that big 60D. Also, I wouldn’t have room for it in my hunting pack and therefore it would be useless to me.
          Things I need in my new camera
          1. DSLR-like quality photos
          2. Interchangeable lenses
          3. Smaller size
          4. Fast continuous shooting speed
          5. Availability of Tele- zoom lens for wildlife photography ( was going to buy a 70-300mm when I considered a DSLR)
          6. Quiet operation (I take a lot of photos within 10-20 yards of deer, turkey, etc from a treestand)
          7. Good low light operation
          8. HD video
          9. Weatherproofing would be a bonus but I can sacrifice this since it will limit my choices.

          Thanks in advance for the help.

          Reply

          1. Hi Donnie,

            Micro 4/3 cameras are a good intermediate between standard point-and-shoots and larger SLRs; and some of them are good, fast cameras.

            Keep in mind that the sensor on micro 4/3 cameras is significantly smaller than on a typical APS-C SLR (my article about the Canon G1 X has a sensor size comparison), and that’s going to affect the image quality in a couple of ways: it will make it harder to get shallow depth of field, and it will usually make the high-ISO performance a little worse.

            There are also compact cameras with SLR sized sensors, like the Sony Nex-5N ($599) and Sony Nex-7($1199). The camera body is quite small, in comparison to an SLR, and the lenses are smaller than SLR lenses. They are capable of VERY fast shooting (10fps) and are quiet because they have no moving mirror parts, good high-ISO performance, etc. They are designed for ease of use, but also offer manual control for people who want to get into that sort of thing.

            A good option, if you don’t mind going micro 4/3rds, would be the new Olympus OM-D E5. It looks a lot like an SLR, actually, but it’s smaller, claims to have the fastest auto-focus of any comparable camera, can shoot up to 9 fps (depending on the focus mode), and it’s weather sealed. The body costs about $999 , but it’s new and is back-ordered from all the dealers right now.

            If you go with a Sony, I think the longest telephoto lens available will be somewhere around 200mm, but you can buy an adapter for the camera and use ANY Sony SLR compatible lens, which opens up your options quite a bit… at the expense of size.

            300mm lenses shouldn’t be too hard to find for micro 4/3, but I’m not sure what your options would be beyond that.Adapters may be available.

            – Matthew

            Reply

  18. A friend of mine has just purchased a 60D, this is his upgrade from an XTi. He received it yesterday and has noticed that the noise when he takes a picture is extremely loud compared to his XTi. Is this normal? He says it is at least 10 times louder. Is is possible his new camera would in fact be defective? Any help is appreciated.

    Reply

  19. Any recommendations on a good, yet easy to use photoshop program to enhance my T3i photos? I wanted to get your opinion before I invested in any particular one. Thanks!

    Reply

  20. I have a Canon EOS Rebel T3i but am in the beginnings of playing with this thing. The main reason for getting the camera was for pics of the kids and family and my daughters senoir pics, also my husband Drag races, I don’t know camera settings lingo and in the most simple terms could someone help me with setting my camera up for drag racing daytime and drag racing night time and depth of field for outdoor settings? Would love to also know how (if you can?) and how you can save certain settings so that you don’t have to reset every time you begin to take pics? Also video?

    Reply

    1. Hi Tina,

      Daytime pictures of action (drag racing for example) will be easier than night time.  If you want to get a good shot of the car coming off the line, (front wheels in the air, etc.) you’ll probably want to use a fast shutter speed.  Start by putting the camera in Shutter Priority mode (Tv on your T3i) and rolling the dial at the top until you are at 1/500th or faster (1/1000, etc.).  Take a picture and see if it turns out ok (bright enough).  If so, you’ve found your starting point.  If there is some motion blur, increase the shutter speed one click and try again.  Practice taking pictures of other cars first so you’ll know what settings to use when your husband is on the line.

      For another neat effect, you could try panning.  Lower your shutter speed to around 1/60th and move the camera horizontally as his car drives by.  Take the picture when he’s directly in front of you on the track, but don’t stop panning sideways when you take the picture, keep moving the camera until the shot is totally done.  Done correctly (with a little practice) the car will be in focus, but the background will be blurred to give the feeling of motion.

      Nighttime action shots require fast shutter speeds just like daytime ones, but they require a fast lens (f/1.2, f/1.8, f/2.0, etc.) to let additional light in.  If you are using the lens that came with your camera, you may be disappointed.  Those lenses aren’t usually fast enough to get decent low light action shots.  Luckily, most drag strips aren’t really that dark.  They are often lit up fairly well, but if the one you are at isn’t, and it is fairly dark, you may have to use a flash…one that you buy separately.

      You’ll have to provide a little more information on the depth of field question.  Are you wanting a shallow DoF, where the subject is nice and sharp, but the background is blurred?  If so, that requires that same type of “fast” lens with a wide aperture (f/1.2, f/1.8, f/2.0, etc.).  An inexpensive way of dipping your foot in that pool is the 50mm f/1.8 for just over $100.  It’s a favorite among the Canon crowd who love that “Bokeh” effect.

      Bill

      Reply

    2. Hi Tina,

      That’s a pretty tall order, but Bill has summed up a few strategies pretty nicely.

      I shoot action a little differently. Instead of using shutter priority during the day, I use Aperture Priority (almost all of the time)… that’s “Av” on your mode dial. If you set that to the lowest number possible (with your lenses, that will probably be 3.5 or 5.6, depending whether your lenses are zoomed out all the way or not).

      When you do that, your camera will then automatically set the shutter-speed to the fastest setting possible that will correctly expose the picture. When you turn your mode dial away from Av, those settings will be saved, too.

      As long as you’re on the site, you might want to take a look at my article “The Three Basics of Photography“, which will help you a lot more than I can is a reply like this :)

      – Matthew

       

      Reply

      1. Hey Matthew – quick question.  Using the Av method, with it set as wide as possible, to get the fastest shutter speed, would you want to set a high ISO, or leave it on Auto?  On Auto, would the camera possibly try a mix of both settings, causing a slower shutter speed?

        Reply

      2. Thanks for reminding me, Bill :) My method for shooting in Av mode will give you the fastest shutter speed and correct exposure for a given ISO setting.

        I don’t use auto ISO, though a lot of people like it. For my method of shooting in Av mode, I set the ISO to 200 on a bright, sunny day, and I set it higher at night… I usually don’t go higher than 1600, though.

        So maybe this isn’t the simplest way to work, but it gives good results. Of course, if you want the simplest way to shoot, just set the camera to the “Sports” mode on the dial :)

        Reply

    3. Thank ya’ll so much. This helps more than you know. I refer back to your comments all the time when taking photos.
      And any new thoughts on this are very much appreciated.
      For other explanations….
      I do have the original lens that came with the camera. I do want to buy a new lens but not really sure which lens to get for the range of photos I am taking. Mainly the drag racing.
      The night time shots are the hardest for me with the original lens, I can’t seem to find a happy medium. There is good light at the drag strip but maybe too much light. My camera focus’s on the light sometimes. Its the blurring the cars. I am trying to work around it.
      If you have a facebook you can add me (Tina Scott in Blossom, Texas and The Paris Drag Strip in Paris, Texas) and see the photos that I have been taking and maybe give me some tips.
      I also want to take some senior and graduation photos and family photos in the coming days for some friends and family, any tips would be great. All will be outdoors.
      I really appreciate all the help, it has made this learning experience so much better. Thank you soo much!

      Reply

  21. This artical has been very helpful. But I was expecting more on video shooting. I am planning to buy a DSLR 80% for shooting video. I have read that the Canon 7D shoots film like video… can’t afford so it gonna be th 60D or T3i. Which should I get for shooting film like videos and what lens is best for shooting videos?
    thanks in advance.

    Reply

    1. Hi Kirk,

      The 7D, 60D, and T3i all use the same sensor and shoot video at the same resolutions and frame rates; for video, they are identical when it comes to image quality. None of them have an auto-focus system that is worth using while shooting video.

      The T3i has the advantage of being able to shoot video with a special type of digital zoom. The camera will shoot using the same capture resolution, but using a smaller part of the large sensor, so it is effectively zooming in.

      Beyond that, the cameras are very similar for video. Check out the MagicLantern firmware sidecar options to see if there’s anything that you’ll need, too.

      Reply

  22. I currently have a Canon Digital Rebel xti and am looking to purchase either a T3i or T2i. I mostly want to take pictures of my kids. Getting close up/portraits is a desire as well as general action pics of kids. The shooting video is nice and as I understand both cameras have that capablity with the t3i having digital zoom. What is the advantage of the digital zoom exactly? Also I read that the t3i can act as a control module for off camera ettl flash and the t2i can’t. What exactly is the importance of that? Would that make a better portrait pic. I’m not a professional photographer and would like to know the differences of those two capablilties that the t3i has over the t2i before purchasing. I don’t want to buy the t3i if the t2i will do. Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Digital zoom allows you to use a smaller part of the camera’s sensor for shooting video, so basically, it just enlarges everything…. it makes it appear that you’re closer to the subject. Traditionally, digital zoom simply cropped off the edges of the video frames and enlarged what was there to fill the frame, so you’d be seeing a lower resolution image at a larger size. With the digital zoom on the T3i, though, the camera captures the video at the same resolution, just from a smaller part of the sensor (full HD video is only 2 megapixels, and the sensor on the camera is 18 megapixels, so it has some room to play around with where it wants to draw those pixels from). There is still some loss of quality with the T3i’s digital zoom, but not as much as you’d expect with traditional digital zoom.

      Using off-camera flash is very important for portraiture. Moving the flash off of the camera allows you to sculpt the light and shadow on your subject, instead of just getting that blast of light (that is the reason most people don’t like flash photography). Think about where the shadow of a person’s nose falls when you shoot a picture with the flash on the camera… since the light is straigh-on, there’s hardly any shadow at all. If you move that flash to one side a few feet, the shadow will be cast to the opposite side of the face, and the far side of the face will also have some shading… both of which provide shape to the image of the face.

      The wireless eTTL system isn’t necessary for using off camera flash, but it’s one of the easiest ways, and it’s an inexpensive option. There are a variety of other triggering systems available, but any system that provides the same eTTL functionality will cost $200-400. Of course, you’d still need a secondary flash unit too, like a 430ex or 580ex.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  23. Hi Matthew, Alfred
    I joined this community for two reasons.
    1) I just bought a t3i and its my first DSLR
    2) After reading all the above discussions, I am very disappointed with my purchase.

    Is t3i worth a buy ? I can still return it and get an upgrade.
    You guys do a great job, in the way you have managed this forum, please suggest me.

    I like capturing cars passing by and also kids in action, and i do understand that it’s the person holding the camera which restricts the camera capabilities. But still what should i opt ( t3i or 60D ) ? and what lenses will be the best.

    I currently have basic kit lens , and 55-250 mm lens.
    I’ll be eagerly waiting for your reply .

    Reply

    1. Hi Anky,

      First of all, welcome :)

      Before anything else, what is it particularly that you’re disappointed about with the T3i? Is there something that you’ve experienced with the camera that bothers you?

      Camera choice is really a personal preference in many way; I happen to like the larger size of the 60D, while some photographers prefer the fact that the T3i is more compact and lightweight. Currently, the T3i is about $230 cheaper than the 60D, too, which is significant… so I don’t think there’s a simple answer.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks a lot Matthew for your prompt and quick response. ( you rock )
        Yeah few things bothers me at the moment,
        1) Captured few moving objects, as in cars on freeway, The result to my surprise was a blurred image.. again may be its just me or this has got to do with fps ? ( i do need photography classes in the earlier case )
        2) Night shots are significantly noisy(ISO 6400, exposure levels etc). I don’t know its just me or the limitation with camera.
        3) To be honest, one major factor is that I got my deal (t3i + 18-55mm + 55-200 , 8gb class 10 SDHC card + lowerpro case) for $1005, Which is equivalent to EOS 60d + 18-135mm deal online.

        I can understand that, My 3rd point drags the topic somewhere else, which is not relevant to this thread, but all this really bothers me. Thanks again :)

        Reply

        1. Hi Anky,

          Photos that appear “blurry” can be caused by 3 main things: 1) the subject is moving too fast for the shutter speed you’re using 2) there was too much camera shake for the shutter speed you’re using or 3) the camera was out-of-focus. There are usually differences, but it’s too much to explain here…If you’d like to email me one of your photos, I can help you tell what’s going on. However, if it’s one of the first two reasons, it’s not the camera’s fault… and even if it’s the 3rd (the 60D does have a somewhat better AF system), it still may be the lens or the selected AF mode that’s to blame rather than the camera.

          No matter what camera you buy, shots at ISO6400 are going to be noisy; some cameras are better than others (but the 60D is not better than the T3i), but it’s still going to be the lesser of two evils. To get better performance, you’ll probably need lenses that let in more light. In fact, better lenses will probably help you with the issue of blurred images, too. Compare your 18-55mm lens (at 55mm) to a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens, for example. At 55mm, your lens’ maximum aperture is f/5.6. An f/1.8 lens lets in more than 8-times as much light (3 f-stops).

          I can certainly understand the disappointment in finding a good deal online after you’ve already purchased something.

          If you haven’t already… you might want to read my article: 3 Basics of Photography.

          – Matt

          Reply

        2. Hi Anky,

          Take your T3i outside today and put it in Tv mode which is shutter priority mode. That means you get to set the shutter speed, and the camera will adjust the aperture and ISO as necessary. Set your ISO to auto, and set your shutter speed (by rolling the wheel near the shutter button) until the shutter speed is 1/250th of a second.

          That should be fast enough to stop motion and still low enough that it won’t take a crazy aperture mode to compensate for the lack of light. If it’s a sunny day, the ISO shouldn’t go too high which will keep noise in the photo to a minimum. That also means you could use a higher/faster shutter speed like 1/500th or higher to really stop those speeding cars!

          Let us know if you still see blurry shots with a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second.

          Bill

          Reply

      2. Yes, camera choice can be very personal. I’m a female, and on the very short side of female. Even the t3i is very large for my hands. It simply isn’t an option for me to go any larger on the camera size, I would never carry it around.

        So something for those with small hands to think about. the 60d is significantly weightier and larger for those with small hands.

        Reply

        1. Hi Selin,

          Thanks for the input :) I find that the T3i is actually a little more comfortable in my hands than the T2i was, incidentally, even though they’re the same size… probably due to slightly modified ergonomics.

          For those who are looking for something quite compact, I’m very impressed with the new Canon PowerShot G1 X, which has large sensor (about the same size as the T3i’s), but it’s truly a pocket camera. Of course, it’s not an SLR, but it looks like it will be a good second camera.

          Reply

  24. Super helpful…thanks so much! I’m going for the Canon 60D. I’ve had a ‘rebel’ for the last so many years and am ready for a bit more.

    Reply

  26. Hello. I am looking to invest in either the T3i or 60D. I will be using this camera to take professional quality pictures of my 8 month old son. I really want vibrant, precise photos that will not be blurry– ones that will capture every detail of his portrait, whether posed or action shots. Can you help me to decide which camera to purchase? To go one step further, because I am looking to invest in only one lens (for now), what one would you suggest for my needs?

    Thank you! Lindsey

    Reply

    1. Hi Lindsey,

      When it comes to image quality, both the T3i and 60D are identical for all practical purposes. The AF on the 60D is a little better, so that may be a consideration, but both can capture higher quality images than most of us will let them (ie, WE are the limiting factors, not the cameras).

      This is both good and bad news, I guess. The problem is that if you buy a great camera and use it like a point-and-shoot, your images are still going to pretty much look like point-and-shoot pictures. So, although getting a new camera is a good first step, even getting a professional level camera (5D Mark II) isn’t going to give you professional quality pictures unless you know how to use it.

      It also means that if you’re willing to put in a little work, you’ll be able to take photos that are just as good (or better) than those you’d get from your local portrait studio. If portraits are your interest, then you should also invest in a flash (like the 430ex ii) that can be used like a studio strobe.

      As for the lens… that’s tricky. I’d recommend a prime, large aperture lens (like a 50mm f1.8 or f1.4, or 85mm f1.8) for portraiture. They’re great for portraits and low-light, but they’re not going to be the best all-around shooting lenses, and you’ll probably also want to use the camera for other things. You might want to take a look at my lens recommendation section —> at the “all around kit” lenses.

      That said, I’d recommend the T3i because it will give you a little extra money to play with to buy something like a 50mm f1.8 lens in addition to a more versatile one. Both cameras are otherwise excellent; I prefer the feel of the larger 60D (and its longer battery life) but it doesn’t sound like your shooting style would benefit from the 60D’s faster shooting capabilities.

      Hope that helps; let me know if there’s anything I can clarify!

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thank you, Matthew!

        I’m definitely going to take a photography class. Even though I am a beginner, and plan to use the camera for personal use only, I really do want to master the use of whatever camera I choose. I am nervous that if I purchase the T3i, I will regret not investing the $100-$200 extra dollars to purchase the 60D. After reading your articles, it seems as though the 60D has the edge for fast shots and the T3i excels in it’s video capabilities. I do not intend to use the camera for video. How, “fast” is “fast” for the action shots? I guess I’m having trouble understanding the difference in what you could shoot with the T3i v. 60D in terms of action shots (where you could notice the difference in the fps.

        I read your article on the best lens to choose– thank you for the recommendation. I did not realize that the 18-55mm actually produces better quality photos than the 18-135– I never would have guessed that. Would the 18-55mm be a good base lens? I’m not sure how to decide between the 55-250 or the 50mm f1.8 (in addition to the 18-55mm that I will buy with the camera)?

        Sorry for all of the questions!

        Reply

        1. Hi Lindsey,

          Let me try to answer your questions in Matt’s absence. Matt can chastise me later if I lead you astray. :-)

          The 60D’s AF and faster fps (5fps vs 3fps of the T3i) means you’ll miss less shots. Though the realistic difference is marginal. But if it’s critical, then go for the faster camera. Keep in mind that the SD Card is a factor in the speed as well. Get the fastest SD card (XC, I believe) you can get.

          To visualize “marginal” vs. a “significant” difference, the difference in speed between 7D and the 60D is 8fps vs 5fps (marginal IMO), but the difference between 7D and the T3i (or the 5D Mk II) is 8fps vs 3fps (significant). The difference between 1D Mk 4 and the 7D is 10fps vs 8fps (marginal IMO).

          I’ve switched from high-speed shooting to single-shot mode, even on the 7D. Mostly because I shoot portraits. I even use this mode with fast moving object like toddlers and cats (though my cat actually likes the attention and will pose :-) ). So it’s a matter of “purpose”: I’m used to waiting for a decisive moment, though I do use high-speed shooting at weddings on occasion.

          Lenses: though the 18-55mm lens is a good “all around” lens, the reason for the 50mm f/1.8 recommendation is to be able to take pictures in low-light situations when flash is no appropriate. Also, the larger aperture will produce better portraits by separating the subject from the background/foreground (an effect known as “bokeh“). The 18-55mm zoom has a maximum aperture of f/3.5 wide open (18mm) and f/5.6 on the long end (55mm). These apertures, though they produce some bokeh, may not produce a pleasing one. Also, they are not wide enough for low-light shooting as previously mentioned.

          Hope this helps shed some light. I tend to be a bit long-winded.

          Cheers,

          Alfred

          Reply

        2. Thanks Alfred, I just got back to Florida this evening :) And that’s pretty much what I would have said, too.

          Even when I’m shooting action, I rarely shoot bursts of photos anyway; I’d rather rely on my own reflexes and anticipation of events than the machine-gun method of hoping that the camera gets a good shot if I shoot enough… though it can be helpful now and then.

          – Matthew

          Reply

        3. Lindsey, MATTHEW, Alfred, et. al.,

          I asked this very question a few short months ago regarding T3i vs 60D. I decided on the 60D and love it to this point. However, MATTHEW (got that wrong last time oops) is absolutely right regarding what makes a great photo. You will run into more than a few “pix snobs ” who think you are no kind of photographer unless you drop 5K and pop for Canon “L” lenses…..wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong wrong. The thing is this, are you going to print with your 5K job, in which case all the sensor settings are almost moot. Same if you are only going to view on monitor….is it true HighHigh Def?…If not then sensor size and yadi, yadi, yadi mean nothing. Buy the cheaper camera T3 unless you NEED HD movies instead of the 60D or 50D or other closely priced model. Besides, 3 years ago the ‘top of the line’ couldn’t do what the ‘cheapos’ do now…so that kind of talk is all hot air.

          Get a solid entry level Rebel (which is NOT called Rebel outside USA, no?) and affordable lenses then LEARN TO LOVE TAKING GOOD PICTURES! Spend money on speedlights, remotes etc., and you will be fine.

          I promise a true professional photographer could pose a professional model and take better pictures with a Coolpix or SureShot than a ‘wanna-be tech talking pic-snob.’ Most modern equipment in phenomenal so don’t let anyone steer you off that path. I am upgrading with various lenses and and shopping smart, which is a little cheaper buy gets me taking lots of pictures. As I heard one guy say recently regarding those snobs, “…sell a couple photos that actually get published, then go out and spend $5K on a Canon 1D (or whatever the latest and greatest is).”

          For most of us photography is a FUN and INTERESTING HOBBY….let it be THAT at a reasonable cost. Not every coin collector has an amazing set of all proof $20 gold coins valued at 50K +. Some collect state quarters and love it just as much. The same applies to camera equipment.

          Thanks to all who have responded to an initial post of mine and good luck to all!

          Reply

          1. Thank you, everyone! I really appreciate your comments. Because I’m new to photography, I’m going to limit the number of lenses that I buy at this point (until I get out and practice). I’m not going to invest in the L series lenses, but am sure that I will want to in the future. Are they compatible with both cameras? Thought I should ask this before I make the camera investment.

            Also, because I will be shooting a lot of portraits, with the blur background, what lens would you recommend? 35mm f/2.1?

            I’ll try not to bother you all too much with more questions until I do additional reserach:)

            I REALLY appreciate your feedback. I can’t thank you enough!

            Reply

            1. Lindsey,

              For portraits I would recommend the 50mm f/1.4 or the 85mm f/1.8. You can also use, as an alternative, the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro lens. It is a very sharp lens and renders great colors (http://fauxtojournalist.com/2010/11/macro-lens-for-macro-photos/). The only thing you will contend with is the autofocus. Anything beyond three feet away will most likely require manual focus. The lens hunts too much after about three feet. This is normal macro lens behavior.

              As far as compatibility is concerned, any EF-S lens will ONLY fit on crop sensor cameras. It will not fit full frame cameras like the 5D Mk II. This may not be a problem because 90% of the Canon camera line up is crop sensor anyway.

              Cheers,

              Alfred

              Reply

          2. Alfred,

            I agree almost entirely. I’d say that the 50mm f1.8 is a good alternative to the f1.4; the bokeh isn’t as smooth, but its fine for anyone who isn’t a bokeh aficionado, only 2/3rds a stop darker, and it’s a fraction of the cost.

            Also, a 60mm macro shouldn’t hunt at normal focusing distances where there’s decent light and contrast. When it does hunt (like any lens will sometimes) it will take longer to correct itself because it has a longer range of travel… but I’ve never had any problem with the Canon 60mm or my Nikon 105mm micro for that matter, so if you’re having an issue with yours, you might want to have it checked out at a repair shop to see if an element is out of alignment.

            – Matthew

            Reply

            1. Matt,

              My lens eventually focuses but it takes a looooooooong time. I also have the camera set to stop focusing when the lens has a problem. So I just manually focus at those times.

              So I guess somebody lied to me about the macro lens. ;-)

              Thanks,

              Alfred

              Reply

  27. Hi Matt,

    Loved the review I was myself stuck in a dilema, either to buy the 600D or 60D. I finally bought the 60D 3 days ago and I’m very happy but I’m still not 100% if I should keep it. I was recording some video in low light and I seem to get lots of noise at high ISO and when I look at other 60D low light videos on youtube they don’t seem that grainy with the same setting i used.

    Any tips or suggestion? Because I love shooting photos and videos that’s why I got the 60D

    Cheers,
    Nick

    Reply

    1. Hey Nick,

      Sorry for the delay; I’ve been out of town and away from internet access.

      Unfortunately, I don’t do much with video, so I can’t offer a lot of help here. You may try uploading some of your own videos to youtube; it’s possible that during their conversion process, they use a noise-reduction algorithm by default…. that may be the difference that you’re seeing. Noise is caused by a few differnt things: high ISO, slow shutter speeds, and hot weather… all of these things contribute to a hotter sensor and more noise; even shooting long videos makes it worse in some cases… so it’s hard to make a direct comparison.

      I don’t know what settings you’re using, but you might want to try shooting with manual settings, and see if that improves the quality. good luck!

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Hey matt,
        thanks for your reply. I have another question, I currently have a sigma 18-200mm but no IS or HSM or USM on it. And I’m looking everywhere for a lens that can replace it, I went from canon to sigma to tamron, my eyes are on a 17-70mm sigma OS HSM. But I want your opinion on which according to you can replace my 18-200mm lens.

        Nick

        Reply

  28. hello my name is michael and im 18 and i will be gettin a canon 60d for my birthday cause i picked it over the t3i because the t3i didnt come with the 18mm-135mm lens that the 60d came with ,

    a little about myself im a young music artist and i am looking to make myself more professional

    my question is will it be worth it cause i will be using it to shoot music videos and do photo shoots ?

    Reply

    1. Hi Mike,

      Congrats on getting the new camera :) The 60D is a better camera for taking still photos, but when it comes to video, there isn’t a whole lot of difference, actually… they’re both really good. The lens issue is tricky; I generally don’t recommend the 18-135mm lens because it is not the sharpest in the Canon line up, but for video, it shouldn’t make any difference (even full HD 1080p video is only about 2 megapixels). One of the things that film-makers usually like about shooting with SLRs is that they can have very shallow focus, so that the subject is in focus but the background is blurry… which creates separation and allows you to direct the viewer’s attention on specific parts of the frame. The 18-135 will be able to do this to some degree, especially at the 135mm end, but not as much as some other lenses that have larger maximum apertures (ie, f/2.8 instead of f/5.6). So, you might also think about getting a lens like the 50mm f1.8, which is great for this sort of thing.

      If you’re not already aware, also keep in mind that SLRs, in general, don’t really focus very well when shooting video. They’re extremely slow and inaccurate, so most people shoot video with manual focus (my experience is that Nikon’s cameras, like the D5100, are faster, but neither are actually very good). The exceptions to this rule are the Sony SLTs, like the a35 and a55 (compared here). They auto-focus just as well in video mode as they do when shooting stills (because they use an electronic viewfinder and don’t need the flip a mirror out of the way). Canon SLRs ARE the most popular in the film industry for shooting video… they’re really awesome as long as you know what you’re getting into. Sony’s cameras, though, operate more like a standard video camera.

      With all of that said… the 60D is an awesome camera for photography and video, especially since it is currently pretty inexpensive, and at only $899 for the body, I’d always buy it over the T3i.

      Reply

        1. Hi Mike,

          Yes, they are identical for all practical purposes; both cameras use the same 18 megapixels sensor, and they both use the same Digic-4 processor. They both record video with the same mkv codec, at the same resolutions. If there are any differences, they are minor, and software related… based on tonal curves and color handling, all of which can be modified anyway. All in all, the image quality should be identical; the differences are in body style, AF system, and still photo shooting speed with the 60D.

          – Matthew :)

          Reply

    2. Mike,

      I am starting to get into photography and am blow away with info overload! Like lot’s of hobbyists and wanna-be semi-pros, I’m looking into the Canon T3i vs 60D (vs 7D as possible, way expensive upgrade).

      I really don’t care about “rebel” stamped on my camera if it works well. I believe the product should speak of the artist instead of the equipment. A dude named Picaso did OK for himself using a pencil on paper which is less than 18 megapixels, right?

      Anyway, I want to shoot portraits and semi-pro models with eye looking to expanding from there. I know the 60D is faster burst and fpm but I am NOT shooting NASCAR or drag racing for publication…if it works better great, but I don’t NEED it right now.

      I am intrigued by each cameras video capability….articulated screen is cool. But I read the 60D has a noise issue with regards to focus motors being heard on video. 1) is this true? 2) how is it a manual focus video has ANY motor sounds at all.

      Who knows, since they have HD vid function included, I might use it instead of my simple canon video camera which is a little too small to actually handle easily.

      FInal 2 issues….First, I am a big guy with largeer hands and small set ups are almost too small…I don’t mind weight and prefer size, which goes for button and controls and everything.

      Last, I had Canon 35mm film camera, remember them? Still have a couple lenses left over and wonder if these will fit and should they affcect my decision for camera and possible lens lit. 2 lenses are: EF 35-80mm 1:4 – 5.6 (Power Zoom) and EF 80-200mm 1:4.5 – 5.6 ii (manual)

      Please help me pick….I’m leaning to higher function 60D due to better burst and higher fps but video noise bothers me if issue. And a little scared of T3i smaller size lighter weight. Or should I chuck them both and cough up the cash for a 7D which seems awesome! Maybe I’ll grow into it?

      Love your answers to others, I hope you can help me! Thanks

      Reply

    3. Mike,

      Sorry about all the typos and spelling errors from my posted question…I’m not as big of an idiot as I come off…..opps, should have spell checked. Big hands made tyipng harder as well. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it :-)

      Reply

      1. Hey Coinguy,

        Spelling errors are easy to ignore… being called Mike will take some getting used to :)

        Neither camera has a focusing motor inside the camera; Canon has always used AF motors in the lens. This means that the focusing noise is very dependent on what lens you use. USM lenses can be nearly silent, while standard micro-motors can be pretty noisy. The microphone placement in the camera can make a little difference, too, but they’re both going to be somewhat noisy. The only real way to get around that is to use an external microphone, like one of these, that clip into the hot shoe on top of your camera.

        That said, auto-focus on SLRs (and Canon in particular) is very slow and not particularly reliable. Since the mirror is locked up out of the way for video, the camera has to use a different AF system (contrast detect, rather than phase detect). Most people who use SLRs for any serious video project manual focus anyway, so there is no sound from a focusing motor anyway.

        I’m about 6′ tall and have pretty big hands, too… and the Rebel series cameras are not particularly comfortable to me. You can improve that a bit with a battery grip (I do the same for all bodies, actually). That’s something that’s pretty subjective, though… you might just wander into a BestBuy and see how they feel in your hand.

        I had Canon 35mm equipment, too… manual and autofocus. When Canon moved to autofocus, they changed their lens mount (Nikon kept their old one). So, manual focus FD lenses will not fit on EOS bodies. (I’m not familiar with the lenses you mention specifically, though). Any older EOS system lenses WILL fit onto the new digital SLRs, though.

        The 7D is an awesome camera, but it costs almost twice as much as a 60D. If you need it (or just have the money to spend), then I’d certainly buy it… but it sounds like you’re not an action photographer, so it’s hard to imagine that it would really be necessary.

        – Matthew

        Reply

  29. Hi: I have been thinking of upgrading my camera. I currently have a Rebel XT and pretty much do everything on automatic. My passion is macro floral photography, so I have the Canon 100mm macro lens (the BEST!). I have been blowing up my photos on canvas (gallery wrapped), from 18″ square up to 40″ square and then 36 x 48, etc. I have also been selling my canvasses at art fairs, etc. Now, although my photos look great, I am pretty much a camera idiot…I do any post processing with Aperture on the mac. Of the two, which would be a better camera for me and would either be that much different than the XT? Also, my understanding is that the higher pixels on both would be much better for large photos as opposed to the Rebel XT.

    I do like the articulated screen, and I would definitely like to advance my camera skills. Also, I read somewhere that the 60D “left out” the micro AF feature (whatever that means…does the XT have it?). How would this affect my shooting?

    Thanks!
    Suzy

    Reply

    1. Hi Suzy,

      I used to do some floral photography myself, though it’s been a while; they were more for documentary purposes than art, and not macro, though (you can see a few in the Memorial Gallery, link at right —-> ).

      Anyway, you’re right… the 18 megapixel sensors should give you significantly better quality images with your enlargements, assuming that you use perfect technique when you’re shooting: tripod, cable-release, mirror lock-up, etc. Even with poor technique, you’ll get less pixelation, just not necessarily sharper images. In this regard, the T3i and 60D are on par with each other, they both have a great sensor, so they’ll both give you the same image quality. Keep in mind that when it comes to making large prints, once you get beyond a certain size, you expect the viewing distance to increase as well… so ultra-sharpness may not be so critical. I tend to think it’s a major concern up to about a 20″ print, and you’ll certainly see an improvement between an 18 megapixel and an 8 megapixel image at that size. If you shoot in RAW mode, you’ll also see improved tonal gradations, with smoother transitions.

      If you’re shooting under controlled conditions, there may not be much point in spending the (little bit, at the moment) extra money on the 60D. The main advantage is that it has a better auto-focus system (all 9 focusing points are high quality, rather than just one of them on the T3i). However, if you don’t experience trouble focusing with your XT, you won’t with the T3i, either. The 60D can shoot faster, but again, this is rarely a concern with still-life work (although if you shoot insects, it may be an issue). It’s worth considering that the 60D body is currently on sale for only $899, if you can find it in stock, and it is generally a better camera than the T3i, so you might consider it just so that you’re not using an entry-level camera. The 60D is a little larger and more comfortable in my hand, but some photographers prefer a smaller camera anyway.

      Micro-adjustments are available on some more expensive cameras. Basically, they allow you to fine tune the focus on each one of your lenses (the camera saves the info and switches when you change lenses). This isn’t usually necessary, actually, but sometimes with older lenses, the lens will focus just a little bit near or far, and this will allow you to fix the problem. The 7D has this feature… but it’s obviously about twice as expensive as the T3i. If you didn’t notice this problem with your XT, it’s unlikely that you’ll notice it with a 60D or T3i.

      Regardless of which camera you decide on, you should learn to shoot in RAW mode, if you’re not doing it already. It makes a significant difference. However, I suppose that if you’re happy with how your images look… then whatever you’re doing is working :) No need to fix it if it’s not broken.

      Good luck, and let me know if you have any further questions :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thank you for your quick response. I am going to go to a camera store and look at both. Then I will pass this on to my husband. He is going to Burning Man so I thought I deserved an upgrade! I will let you know what I decide.

        This is a great site!

        Suzy

        Reply

  30. I am looking into D7000 and 60D, they keep saying D7000 is in the same class as 7D instead of 60D. I saw couple other reviews… but I am wondering how important and how big of a difference are those features on D7000, does it worth extra couple hundred?

    Reply

    1. Hi Ting Lik,

      I’ve actually written a couple of articles on the subject myself…. http://www.lightandmatter.org/2010/equipment-reviews/nikon-d7000-vs-canon-7d-cheaper-and-better/

      and http://www.lightandmatter.org/2010/equipment-reviews/canon-60d-vs-nikon-d7000-best-midrange-slrs/

      The gist of all of that is that the D7000 is probably a little better than the 60D, but it is not comparable to the 7D. Unfortunately, the only way to decide whether the extra money is worth it is by weighing each feature against how you use your camera. Honestly, many photographers would be just fine with a T2i.

      What do you shoot? What do you want to shoot?

      – Matthew

      Reply

      2. I am looking at Canon EOS 60D Digital SLR Camera with Canon EF-S 18-135mm IS lens + Canon 55-250mm f/4-5.6 Lens + Camera Bag + 8GB Memory Card for $1040, should I go for it? or should I wait and go for D7000?

        Reply

        1. Sorry for the delay; I’m on the road. That’s a great price for that package (at least, it is around here). Either camera would probably take a look at the lenses offered by Canon and Nikon, see which you like the best, and factor that into your decision. They’re both great cameras, both will cover your needs.

          Reply

          1. Thanks for the input Matt,

            I think I am going to stick with 60D because of the overall cost seems to out weight the high ISO IQ, 39 AF points, and the .7 fps shutter speed advantage from D7000. (The only three features that holds me from 60D) I am very careful user, so the build “materials” don’t mean much to me. The remaining question for me is that whether I should sell the kit lens to get a good lens or just stick with this two… what do you think? What other accessories should I be looking into?

            PS. One more question… It comes to my attention that most camera reviewers are Nikon fan, I am wondering what drive you toward Nikon instead of Canon or other brand? Just wondering…

            Reply

            2. Personally, I’m not a fan of Canon’s 18-135mm… the optical quality just isn’t where it should be. However, it’s a very useful zoom range, so I’d spend a little time with it and see what range you shoot with the most, and that will help you decide what lens to replace it with… there are lots of good choices.

              As for camera reviewers being Nikon fans… I admit that I shoot Nikon, but also Canon. Nikon (particularly up until the late 1980s) has traditionally been THE professional 35mm camera (ok, Leica has always been elite, too… but not used by the masses). That really started changing in the 1980s, and by the late 1990s, I saw more Canons than Nikons, but a lot of older photographers have maintained brand loyalty. The fact remains that they’re both incredible camera systems… better than most photographers will get out of them… so it really is most important to pick a camera (any camera) and practice photography rather than worrying about the camera. A good photographer will be able to take amazing pictures with any of the cameras that we’ve discussed.

              Reply

              1. Matt,

                So what exactly *do* you shoot with and with what lens(es), primarily? I’m sure you’ve collected gear throughout the year (hey, that rhymes!), but you must have settled down to a subset of that.

                Just wondering…

                Alfred

  31. Question…I have never used an SLR camera before…I should go for the Ti3 rather than the 60d? What would be the best choice for telephoto zoom lens. I will be photographing portraits, landscapes, nature…lots of animals and birds at a distance. Would appreciate any suggestions. I was looking at the canon 55-250mm.

    Reply

    1. Both cameras will take some practice, but both can be used by a complete novice… and both are incredibly powerful tools. If wildlife (and action in general) will be an important part of your photography, I’d lean towards the 60D, especially since it now has the $100 rebate. The 60D is a little larger and more sturdily built, and has a better AF system.

      Reply

  32. The Bigger battery, brighter view finder and top LCD which displays current settings may also be considered in favour of 60D.

    Reply

  33. OK. I have a Sony a390 right now and am thinking about upgrading to a better camera. I do mainly bird photography but will also shoot wildlife and nature scenes. I’ve been looking into a couple cameras. Which do you think would fit me best. I am looking for a good camera that will keep me for at least 10 years. Here are my choices: Canon EOS rebel t3i, t2i, canon EOS 60d, and the Nikon D5100. Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hello Joshua,

      If photography is your main interest (rather than video), the T2i and T3i are almost identical; choose the T3i if you’ll use the wireless flash control and want the articulated LCD, but otherwise, there’s not much to distinguish one from the other. The D5100 is almost identical to the T3i, but it’s missing the wireless flash control.

      The 60D has the advantage of a better auto-focus system than the other cameras, with 9 cross-type AF points vs 1 in the others. For bird and wildlife photography, I think that could make a significant difference. That said, they’re all very nice cameras, and any one of them could be used successfully. Remember, though, that 10 years ago, digital cameras were in the 3-5 megapixel range, and very noisy. The pace of technological change is only going to increase, with cameras… so I wouldn’t necessarily count on any of them being very attractive in 10 years, though they’re all probably as good as a 35mm film camera. Still… it makes the most sense to invest in lenses rather than bodies, when you can.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  34. Hey Matthew,
    I currently have the canon G9 and I’ve thought of upgrading to either the t3i or D60. This will primarily be used for regular personal use as well as images for my website(soulshark.net) Will I see a dramatic increase in image quality if I were to step up to the dslr? Thanks for any advise you can give.

    Rick

    Reply

    1. Hi Rick,

      The answer to that question depends entirely on what you mean by image quality. If you mean resolution and sharpness, then no, you won’t see any dramatic difference, especially at web-size. You might get less noise at high ISO using one of the SLRs, but the G9 is actually not bad there, either… so with a little noise reduction (and at web size) it won’t be a big deal.

      That said, there’s a very significant difference in image quality based on the size of the sensor. It’s the same difference you see in video… the difference between a consumer video-camera (even at 1080p) and broadcast/movie production quality… you can tell there’s something different, but it’s sometimes hard to pin down exactly what it is… the home-made stuff just looks cheap. The difference is caused primarily by the difference in sensor size, which in turn causes a difference in the depth-of-field (DOF), which basically refers to how much of the picture appears to be in focus. With a larger sensor or film (all other things being equal), there’s less depth of field, ie, if the subject is in focus, the background and foreground are less in focus, creating a visual separation between them, effectively isolating the subject (to varying degrees, depending on other factors) from the rest of the scene. This can mean the difference between a professional looking portrait and what looks like a snapshot.

      Lens choice and aperture choice also effect DOF, and you’ll have a much wider array of options when using an SLR.

      And, needless to say, SLRs are much more responsive, generally speaking (though it’s been too long since I’ve used a G9 for me to remember how slow it is). That is to say, the SLR powers on instantly, and when the press the shutter release, it takes a picture with no delay (in practical terms), both of which help you take better action photos.

      I suppose what this means is that one of the SLRs COULD give you much better image quality, depending on how you use it. If you continue to shoot with the same equivalent focal lenths at f16, then the difference will probably be minimal.

      Hope that helps :)

      – Matthew Gore

      Reply

  35. I appreciate your articles & read the reviews on the T3i, T2i & 60D. I’m going to purchase a T3i due to my primary purpose of using the camera is video. Any suggestions on the sound component of the camera?

    Reply

    1. There are several external mics that I’ve heard good things about, but I don’t use any of them myself. RODE makes a shotgun mic for about $150 , and a stereo mic for about $250, both are excellent quality. I’ve used RODE mics in the past for recording instruments, and they produced crisp, even response.

      There are quite a few other options from Sanheiser, Sony, Audio-Technica, etc, but I don’t recall having heard anything about them.

      Enjoy the camera,
      Matthew

      Reply

  36. Thanks for a great round up. I’m looking at these three cameras in particular and found this comparison enormously helpful. Actually would probably be fine with the Rebel but may get the 60d purely due to the “in-hand” feel. I don’t like the cramped feeling of the T series and it’s probably worth the money for a camera that feels more substantial and fits the hand well.

    Thanks again!

    Reply

    1. I agree; the T2i and T3i are very capable cameras, but the feel of the 60D really makes a difference for me; it just feels more serious… and while that’s not really quantifiable, I’m of the opinion that an artist really needs to feel comfortable with his/her tools to be able to look beyond the equipment and focus on the time and place.

      Reply

      1. Hi Matt – after having my 2nd DSLR camera lost/stolen in an airport, I must get a replacement for my Canon xsi. It had an 18-200mm lens that made all the difference for me so I actually still have the original Canon 18-135 that came w/ the kit so I only need to get the body. What I’d like to do is spend less on the body ideally to justify paying for a new tele lens. That’s why I’ve been thinking T2i but hate thought of buying a discontinued camera when the latest & greatest (?) is there. I have a point & shoot w/ video plus a video camera but like having all in my one good camera. Being short, the variable angle screen is appealing but truly that’s the only big draw I think. Would you save & get T2 & put extra $100 towards the lens?

        Reply

        1. Hi Robin,

          If you haven’t already, you might want to take a look at my article comparing the T2i and the T3i, here.

          I think that it pretty well boils down to the wireless off-camera flash control, digital zoom for video, and the articulated LCD… so it really depends on whether you think those things will be important. Personally, the flash control would be significant enough to be worth it, but I know that many people prefer only natural light.

          For what it’s worth, the T2i is not actually being discontinued; the T3i is a side-by-side release, and the T2i will continue to be sold for some time to come, just as the T1i has been for sale (and manufactured) for the past year.

          Reply

  37. Hi Matthew,
    It’s Brian the newby 60D owner.
    Per your suggestion, I signed up for this site.
    I have a timely question for you.
    Tonight, I have a nice perch from which to shoot the full moon.
    Being that I’m a beginner with a 60D, how do you suggest I shoot it?
    Thanks,
    Brian

    Reply

      1. :)
        Remember, I’m a newby on this site too!!
        Another article somewhere else suggested ISO 100, F11, and 1/100 with bracketing. The good news is that I now know how to go to Manual and adjust those settings..The bad news is that it’s cloudy.
        :(

        Reply

  38. Hi folks. I’ve had my 60D for a few weeks now and thought I’d come back and chat about some reactions. First off, I’m very happy with the 60D it’s an amazing camera. Having finally made the decision after 9 months of research and giving up on Panasonic Lumix GH2 ever being released in the US. Besides I held one the other day and it feels like a tiny toy camera in my hands.

    I have the 18-135 kit lens and I’d say I wish I’d gotten the 18-200 because that one has a locking mechanism. The zoom is a tad loose on the 18-135. If its extended and you go to attach the lens cap.. it pushes it in. If you add some macro filters to the end and point the camera down, the weight easily pulls the lens out. Pulling it out of my bag (I store it lens down) pulls the lens out a bit sometimes.)

    The next lens I’m buying is the 50mm 1.4 prime. There is a 1.8 that’s only $100 but I’ve read it’s plastic and it will fall apart. I’d rather spend $300 more on something that’ll last. Then after that a 18mm or 30mm wide angle.

    I bought the Rode Stereo Videomic for my 60D. Plugging it directly into the camera gives you LOTS of hiss. So you pretty much are left with A. Getting a Juicedlink box and Magic Lantern firmware or B. Buying a digital recorder like the Zoom H4n or better and syncing in post with PluralEyes. Even though the 60D has manual audio control the dreaded AGC (automatic gain control) is still there and will add hiss to any mic you plug in.

    Magic Lantern is pretty cool and there will be a working 60D version. It disables AGC, adds live audio levels to recording and doesn’t void your warranty. It runs with the firmware not over it, and you can reboot to factory settings.

    By the way, after I bought the Rode I learned the Stereo VideoMic is for concert/band recording. And the VideoMic (shotgun) is for interviews (either on-camera or boom). Don’t get the old VideoMic shotgun as a VideoMic Pro (smaller) is coming out soon.

    Reply

    1. Hi Damian,

      Great info, thanks :)

      Just a note about the 50mm f/1.8 . The lens is plastic, and light, and feels like it will fall apart. However, I’ve been using the same one for over 15 years; it’s been with me from coast to coast of the US, and another 20 countries in Europe and Central America… and I’ve never had a problem with it; it is still exquisitely sharp.

      I’m not suggesting that you shouldn’t get the f/1.4… it’s a great lens. Just thought I’d mention that the first impression of the f/1.8 can be deceptive.

      I’ll be interested to see if the Magic Lantern for the 60D ever gets out of Beta; I hope that it does.

      – Matthew

      Reply

    2. I’d like to second the high praise for the 50mm 1.8. I’ve had mine for what might be close to 10 years and it does not even show many signs of age. It’s not fancy, it does not make you look cool, but boy does it’s performance belie it’s price and appearance. I wish all lenses had the same price/performance ratio.

      Reply

      1. Good to know. I was leery of the 1.8 after reading all the reviews on Amazon and B&H. High praise for it sure, but there were a few reviewers who said it didn’t last. And after all the money I spent on camera and accessories I was leaning toward the better lens.

        Reply

  39. From background of 35 years of photography hobby, I’d like with your permission to offer a couple of non-conformist views.

    1. The distinctions you’ve made between the 600D and the 60D are mostly insignificant. They make a difference to specs enthusiasts, not for actual photography. It reminds me of those audio enthusiasts in the 70s who argued to no end about a couple of percentage points in specifications of wow & flutter or total harmonic distortion. They should have spent more time listening to music.

    2. My own speculation is that there is no “fancy new business model” here (I guess you mean “original” or “unusual”?). I would venture that in the next iteration Canon will distance the 70D from the *00 line (or delete it altogether).

    3. Finally, I find the whole classification of cameras (used by *everybody* who writes camera reviews!) as for “beginner” vs. “enthusiast” vs. “advanced amateur” vs. “semi-pro” vs. “pro” etc etc etc — to be unconvincing at least. If cannon comes with a camera between 600D and 60D the reviewers will struggle hard to find a new tag…

    What is called “beginner SLR” today has hundreds of options more than a pro-SLR in previous decades. So when an 80s “pro” buys a 600D today he becomes an “amateur”? You think a 1/8000 shutter speed or 96% viewfinder coverage makes one a better photographer?

    I have a relative who shoots the most incredible nature photographs all over Africa with a 400D (he buys expensive lenses though!). The only specification that is convincing in this matter is probably “ruggedness”. So until someone takes both 60D and 600D to the rain forest and comes back with conclusions, I’ll remain a skeptic.

    These classifications are propagated by camera manufacturers, who must justify different lines and costs differences. So buy the cheapest and spend the money on lenses.

    Someone should sell a little sticker you can paste on the “Rebel T3i” logo with “60D” or better yet “7D”…

    Reply

    1. These are points well taken, though I think you may have missed my sense of humor in certain places (granted, I make it easy), esp. re: “fancy new business model” and the “Rebel” label.

      I’m in full agreement on many of these points; in fact, you might want to read my older article comparing the T2i and the 7D, or many of the others on this site. Most photographers these days don’t need the features of the more expensive cameras, and in fact, the better the photographer you are, the less you need the extra features, in many cases. This is also why I mention the continued availability of the T2i at the end of this article.

      That said, what counts as a significant distinction is completely relative to the type of work that a photographer intends to do, and I’ll leave that up to the photographer.

      I can say from personal experience, for example, that a full magnification, 100% coverage viewfinder makes a huge difference when shooting action in low light. For hobbyists, maybe it’s not a significant difference… for people whose paycheck depends on it, it is. And frame rate and AF system can also make a significant difference, depending on the job.

      In any case, I do appreciate your opinions on the matter; thanks for sharing them. I hope you find (or have) a camera that you enjoy and suits your needs.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. First, I applaud your articles for having better comparison charts and more depth than most.

        And I will concede that some of the photographers out there (under 5%, IMHO) need uncommon features.

        What annoys me is that everybody calls something as sophisticated as 600D as a “good first SLR for beginners”, only because they must reserve their praise for higher-priced models.

        An anecdote: My first SLR (1978) was a Minolta XG7 with 50mm f/1.7 lens (plus two Celtic lenses — Minolta’s second line). It was stolen after 4 years and I “upgraded” to a more “professional” Nikon FE and eventually FE2 and FM3n, and bought half a dozen expensive Nikkor lenses along the way. Looking back, most of my favorite photos were taken with the Minolta…

        Finally, my previous advice was: Spend your MONEY on good lenses. My only other advice would be: Spend your TIME on composition, developing a personal style, studying other photographers’ photos, etc — don’t pay too much attention to minuscule differences in specifications. I apologize if it sounds too preachy :-)

        Reply

  40. Hello Matthew,
    I wrote about 3 or 4 weeks ago. I was the beginner wondering your thoughts about which camera to purchase. I mentioned that I liked the idea of the T3i’s features for beginners. I also mentioned that I hoped to start learning photography. You definitely leaned towards the 60D. Anyway, a few weeks ago Best Buy was nice enough to give me a 30 day (it’s usually 14) window to buy the 60D and then check out the T3i when it comes available to see if I want to switch. My experience as a beginner with the 60D has been amazing. It actually DOES have the various filters and ambiences that I thought only the t3i has. Fast forward to yesterday when I stopped by the Best Buy to check out the t3i. It reinforced how much of a powerhouse the 60D is compared with the t3i. The t3i feels more like a point and shoot. The frames per second difference is dramatic. The only other beginner feature I found on the t3i was the dialogue on the screens that explain every single detail. As a beginner, I was able to figure out those things on the 60D. As a beginner, the 60D allows me to take better photos, hands down. Now I just have to grow into it.
    Just wanted to thank you. If I hadn’t stumbled upon this site, I would have made a mistake in my camera purchase.

    Brian

    Reply

    1. Hi Brian,

      Glad to hear that things are working out for you :)

      I think that I haven’t been clear about the ambiance features on the 60D; I’d better revise this article a bit. The 60D does have ambiance controls, as you say. I think that the t3i actually has some new ones, but I could be wrong… I haven’t made a list and cross-checked, and I’d never use them anyway, since I shoot raw and prefer doing my post processing in PS.

      Anyway, have fun with your new camera. Don’t forget that you can become a member here… I don’t spam members, so no worries there… and even though the forum/community is still pretty small, it’s a group of really friendly people, pretty generally willing to help each other out.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. I forgot..It also has the scene type which has things like sunset, daylight, cludy, sunshine, etc..Also the ambience as I mentioned. Plus, it even has the feature where you control background blur. So it’s great for a beginner.
        I’ll definitely check out the membership. Thanks again.

        Reply

  41. I wonder about your statement “it [60D] also has the thumb wheel for exposure compensation, probably my favorite Canon feature of all time.”

    It implies that the 600d doesn’t have this.

    I own a 450D and when you press the Av button (with your thumb probably) you can use the wheel (index finger probably) to change exposure compensation.

    I doubt that the 600D deleted this.

    Reply

    1. I certainly didn’t mean to suggest that the 600D doesn’t have exposure compensation; it does. It does not have the thumb wheel for instant access, though… it requires, as you mentioned, a combination of a button and the main dial. The thumb wheel that I was referring to was this one:

      Reply

  42. well I recently ordered the camera at BHphoto.com for 899$ went with the body and bought a 35mm f2 it’s a great lens that will do for most of your shooting needs. Also, the 50mm 1.8 is one I love great photos “BOKEHLICIOUS” -DIGITALREVtv KAI. but seriously buy the body only research lenses and buy the one you will need the most!!!

    Reply

  43. So LoL I got sick of waiting for the GH2 and bought a 60D. Also got a Rode stereo mic for video. I’ll just manual focus. Wish the 60D AF was faster. In live mode for stills it’s really slow.

    Reply

    1. Yeah, that’s the problem with contrast-detection AF instead of phase detect. You may know that for professional film makers, there are now quite a few geared/rail focusing systems for SLRs that you might want to consider. B&H’s DSLR guide has a lot of good info about them.

      What model RODE did you get? I used to have an NT1, and loved it… but I used it so rarely that I ended up selling it.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  44. Did you get the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS UD lens? I think, more than seeing sample pictures, hearing about your experience with the lens would be most helpful. Most importantly, I’d like to know if you regret getting this lens instead of some other lens you now wish you had gotten. I really appreciate your responses as your perspective has been very significant to my wife.

    Reply

    1. Yes, that’s the kit lens I got. No, I don’t regret it, but remember, I don’t have any experience with anything else to compare it to other than decent P&S cameras; mine being a Canon SD-950 IS.

      From the things I’ve read, and what I understand those to mean, a lens that went down to say f/2.8 would have been nice, but I think overall, the lens it came with has given me something to learn with, and something that will work for a wide range of photos. It might not be the best fit for taking action photos of my two little basketball players in the dimly lit gym they play in, but I’m guessing for nearly everything else I’ll be photographing, it’ll do extremely well.

      I’m certain you’re a much better judge of what the kit lens’ limitations are than I am. From the usage I’ve put the camera though so far though, I’ve been very happy with it.

      Reply

  45. OK, I have decided on the Canon 60D. And, of course, that’s not where it ends. Now I have to decide if I buy the body only and purchase the lens of my choosing or if I take advantage of the very significant price breaks available with the kits and get a lens that I may otherwise not have chosen. I normally would not go this route but at about $1200 the kits with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS UD lens seems like a pretty good deal. Do you know much about this lens? If money was not much of a consideration I think I would choose the EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens but it is certainly over my budget and I feel uncomfortable investing in the EF-S line. So my third option (which is where I think I’m leaning) is the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens. My only concern about this last option is that 28 mm is not very wide with the 1.6 crop factor.

    I should probably put a little bit of context into this. There are only two lenses in my kit that I think are worth keeping around: 1. a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 and 2. Is a rather old but still very serviceable Canon EF 100-300mm 1:4.5-5.6 USM Zoom. What I’m looking for is a relatively high quality walk-around lens, ideally, with image stabilization.

    Thanks in advance for any help you or anyone else on this board is willing to offer.

    Reply

    1. As is probably apparent, I’m still an SLR newbie, but I did recently purchase the 60D w/the kit lens. If there’s any type of basic photos you’d like me to take with it (macro, indoor/outdoor photo, particular settings, action/still, etc.) I’d be happy to take them for you so you can see how it does.

      Reply

    2. Hey SBB,

      First, you might want to take a quick look at the “Lens Recommendations” tab at the top of the page; I’m just getting started there, but there is some information if you haven’t already seen it.

      I would be remiss if I didn’t say that I’ve been very disappointed with the 18-135’s border resolution, especially with an 18 megapixel sensor. Some people, of course, use the lens for ages and never notice… so that’s really a matter of expectations. Bill’s experience in this case is typical, I think… he’s happy with the performance but isn’t expecting it to behave like a professional quality lens (Thanks for your insight here, Bill!). It is probably better than most of zoom lenses available back in the 1990s.

      If price is a major consideration, also keep in mind that the 60D body basically costs $900, and the 18-135 can be purchased (new, with USA warranty) on places like Amazon.com for $300, so the kit price isn’t all that spectacular a deal.

      Canon currently just doesn’t make a mid-price range zoom that covers wide to telephoto on the APS-C sensor with uniformly high quality. All of Canon’s 17 and 18-55 lenses, though, have very even, high optical quality. The kit lens with the T3i, the 18-55 f3.5-5.6 IS, is actually quite good optically… and costs about $175. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have the greatest feel… it’s a bit plasticy, and it doesn’t have USM.

      The 28-135 is pretty good all-around for image quality (not amazing, though), but the zoom range is disappointing, as you mentioned … no real wide angle, and not a very long telephoto. However, some people don’t use a lot of wide angle, so it may be fine for you, and you’ll have your 100-300 to cover your longer end needs.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. I would recommend heading to BestBuy, buying one with the kit lens, and taking it home to try out. You get 14 days (45 I think if you are a Silver Reward Zone member) to play with it before returning it if you aren’t happy with it.

        The same should apply to lenses as well. If they have everything there, then buy the kit and an additional lens or two and decide what you like that way.

        I’d use BestBuy to determine what you want if they have it, then decide if you want to keep some portion of your purchase from there, or return it all and get it cheaper online if possible.

        I’m more than happy to help out any way I can, but getting one in your hands and using it on your own turf will help out much more than anything I can tell you.

        Reply

  46. Thanks for a great article addressing exactly the questions I was contemplating about new camera purchase. I had been leaning toward the T3i because I thought it would encourage my wife to use the camera more. I have been shooting with an SLR for over 25 years and, frankly, I would be shooting most often. Do you think having me around would supplant the benefits of the guide and also allow us to have a better built camera? Most of the time I would be around (I just want to be in some of the family pictures). The only times she would be using the camera without me would be for ethnographic video/interviews (stationary subjects with plenty of setup time) and document capture should be very easy for her to master. After reading your article I am now swaying in the direction of the 60D.

    Reply

    1. Matthew is probably the one you’re looking to hear from, but as someone with a skill level that probably matches more closely to your wife’s than yours, I can tell you that the 60D has done an admirable job in my hands, and I’m sure it would in hers as well. The added battery life, better focusing, and faster shutter speeds would probably push me over the edge if I were you, even more so with your experience.

      Reply

    2. I guess this is how I feel about the “guide” features: For people who want ease of use, pure and simple, the 60D has the same automatic modes as any of the low and mid range SLRs; you put it on automatic and shoot, and most of the time the picture will be great. I’ve worked with (and gone to school with) a lot of people who do just that… and even back in the mid 1990s, the cameras did a really good job. The “ambiance” settings and “guide” are really only useful for people who want additional creative effects from the camera, and those people are really better off learning from a book or instructor… I don’t think the in-camera guide is going to be sufficient to teach people what can easily be learned in a few hours of study. I’m of the opinion that if someone wants more control from their photography than they can get with the “automatic” and “ambiance” features available in the 60D, they must be getting serious about photography, and should just devote a little time to study.

      That said, the digital zoom on the T3i seems to have some promise, and it seems as though it will be a great camera in general… so I’d hate to discourage anyone from purchasing it.

      Very interesting to hear you mention ethnographic work; my second masters program was in Anthropology (though it was biological anth, not cultural). I did enjoy the cultural anth courses that were required, though… there are a lot of similarities between ethnographic study and journalism in general, at least in spirit, if not technique.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks to both of you for your replies. I really believe I would have mistakenly pulled the trigger on the T3i had I not discovered your site. I’m a little embarrassed to admit it, I’m kind of exited about not having the word rebel emblazoned in red across the front of my camera (that’s got to be worth at least $50).

        Reply

  47. One huge point missing from the discussion –
    60D has three times the battery life of T3i…that, coupled with the much better AF and build quality might be worth the $100 price differential.

    Reply

    1. Very true; the 60D will get up around 1500-1600 shots while the T3i will get something closer to 500, though in both cases that can be extended with a battery grip. The cameras use different batteries… the T3i uses an LP-E8 which is considerably smaller and lighter than the LP-E6 in the 60D. It also about $20 cheaper, if you want the authentic Canon version. Alternately, you can buy TWO 3rd party ones for about $4 :)

      Reply

  48. i still dont get the new ‘video snapshot’ thingy.. what is it actually? the camera can shoot 4k pixel res of picture right? does this snapshot combined to become a 4k res video?? is thats the case..it think its awesome..if its not..what the hell is it?

    Reply

  49. So I’m going on a trip to the Galapagos Islands in June and I’m planning on purschasing the Canon 60D since it is currently the same price as the T3i with equal or better features. I will be carrying three cameras: the Canon SX1 IS for video, the Canon SD990 for quick point and shoot shots, and the Canon 60D for portraits and landscapes when I have more time to compose shots. My question is which lens or lenses to purchase. I’d prefer one lens but could go with two. Thanks in advance.

    Reply

    1. That, unfortunately, still really depends on what you plan on photographing. The one-size-fits-all type lenses like the 18-200mm really do not have the greatest optical quality (though they’re certainly passable… I think that for a trip like that, I’d rather make sure that my pictures with my serious camera are of serious quality).

      If you haven’t already, you might want to check out the “Lens Recommendation” tab at the top of this page. That should give you a start, at least.

      Sounds like an awesome trip, btw. That’s one that I’d really like to do myself.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks. I’m probably going to go with the 18-55 and 55-250 for the best photo quality although I’m fairly new to the world of DSLR. Any recommendations on a camera bag that could hold the camera and two lens?

        Reply

          1. I actually still have a green Canon backpack that I got in 1992, though I don’t use it much anymore… it still works just fine (I prefer the pack to the bag, but that’s a matter of personal taste). The backpacks are about the same price… $35 or so.

            – Matthew

            Reply

      1. I’m actually doing it through my school. Everything was set up through an educational touring company. So I really don’t have much advice. I know they do offer a number of tours though reputable companies online. Just be aware that most of them are $3500+ for a week long tour.

        Reply

  50. I just wanted to stop back by and say thanks for all of the help Matthew. I went to BestBuy and got the 60D last night. They matched their .com price which dropped it by $160, then accepted the 12% off coupon which dropped it another $136. Coupled w/the $110 in reward zone certificates & $310 in gift cards, I feel like I got it for a steal! :D

    The battery totally was drained when I opened it, and the kids were in bed by the time it was done charging so I haven’t taken many shots with it yet, but is does have a very solid feel to it. I began reading a book called Photography by Barbara London and John Upton which goes into easy to understand explanations of shutter speeds, f-stops, etc. complete with illustrations to help explain their points. It’s an older book, based more on film cameras, but those concepts still seem pertinent and are laid out in a manner I can comprehend.

    I don’t expect magic in the dimly lit basketball gym w/the kit lens, but I’m still hopeful I’ll end up with a couple of keeper shots this weekend. Wish me luck!

    Reply

    1. Hi Bill,

      Glad to hear that you got a camera that you’ll be happy with :)

      The book that you mention is actually a very common college textbook… I had an earlier edition of it when I was in college myself. It’s a bit expensive, (the 10th Edition is current), but there’s also a slightly less expensive version, called “Photography: The Essential Way” which is also quite good. You found a great resource there. Good luck :)

      – Matthew

      Reply

    1. Actually, I think that the important thing is to learn about the basics of cameras and photography in general rather than a specific camera; once you learn about aperture, shutter-speed, ISO and how they’re related by f-stops, for example, the information can be applied to any camera. Learning the specifics of your camera can be important too, but that’s the sort of thing that can usually be accomplished with a couple of hours spent with the manual.

      I think I have a 10 best photography books article on this site somewhere… but Understanding Exposure is a great place to start.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  52. To everyone that’s deciding between the T3i and the 60D, I’ve owned the Rebel XT for 4 years and really loved it but I’m definitely going to upgrade to the 60D. Once you reach a certain skill level with digital photography the Rebel line is just a little to beginner. If this is going to be your first DSLR go with the Rebel but if you’ve been shooting with a DSLR for a few years already or have a good understanding of photography fundamentals move up to the 60D or better, you’ll be happy you did!

    Thanks for all the info and time you put in this article. Cheers!

    Reply

  53. Woke up this morning basically ready to pull the trigger on the 60D and my local BB is out of stock according to their site. An omen? :P

    Reply

    1. So is the t3i… :)
      You should see which camera comes back to the store 1st..
      Or…We can say that the 60D is so awesome, that it sold out.
      Or..We can say it’s Matthews fault for his amazing reviews. :)

      Reply

      1. Good points! :D

        I’m seriously considering driving to a town that’s about 45m away to pick one up. I have a 12% off coupon that only works in-store (until the 27th), so it would be worth the drive price wise.

        I’ve also got close to $450 in reward zone certificates & BB gift cards. How can I *NOT* buy one? :D

        Reply

        1. LOL, keep in mind, guys, that the T3i was just announced two weeks ago, and it’s not expected to hit the stores until sometime in March (though of course the T2i and T1i are still available there). Good luck, whatever you decide!

          – Matthew

          Reply

  54. Hey there….
    I’m kinda right there with most of these people. I’m going back and forth between the t3i and the 60d. I’m very big into video. So would one be better then the other for me. I have so many people telling me one and the other and I don’t want to make the wrong choice. I’d love to hear your opinion on which one would be best for me being into videography!
    Thanks so much!

    Reply

    1. Hi Mallorie,

      The good news is that there isn’t really a wrong choice here; they’re both great cameras and they’re both so evenly matched that it makes for a tricky decision. Whichever one you choose will be a good choice.

      That said, the T3i has a couple of advantages when it comes to video. The digital zoom, mentioned above, is actually a really good feature, despite how awful digital zoom has been in the past. There’s the T3i’s digital snapshot mode, which pastes together a bunch of little clips for you (not sure this is an advantage). But there’s also the fact that Magic Lantern firmware sidecar is under development for the T2i, and it may be ported to the T3i, and that can be a big benefit for people who are serious about video. Keep in mind, though, that this is still just a future contingency (although, I guess the whole camera is right now :) )

      So, in your case, I’d lean towards T3i.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thank you so much for getting back to me so fast on this. I will be honest I am pretty new to these camera so I’m pretty much leaning on others knowledge of them. Unfortunately someone decided to sell me the t1i which isn’t an awful camera at all… but for video wise (which is what I told him) I really don’t think he made that right sell to me. Oh well… lessons learned. But with saying that… I don’t completely understand what you mean about the digital zoom. So thats something I would want… ? However you said its been awful… and so the t3i has it, but the 60d does not… is that right? Then with the snapshot mode… you kinda lost me with that, what exactly is that?
        Thank you thank you for this!

        Reply

        1. Hi Mallorie,

          Just so we’re clear… none of the Canon SLRs are going to provide video-camera type functionality when it comes to video. Basically, you’re going to have to rely on manual focus much of the time, and that’s something that takes a lot of people by surprise (though I imagine that you’re used to it, if you have a T1i). Movies and TV shows are shot in manual focus, which is why the Canon 5D Mark II has become so popular for shooting professional quality films, but not for amateurs who want to replace their video-camera.

          If you’re looking for an SLR that will give you something similar to video-camera type performance, the only good option is the Sony A55.

          Anyway… when it comes to digital zoom, yes… the T3i has it, the 60D doesn’t, and I think that it’s something that you at least might want…. it sounds to me like it would be fun to play with, though I don’t really do much with video. The T3i uses a completely different digital zoom technology than video cameras did in the past for digital zoom; theirs was bad, the T3i’s is relatively good. As far as I know the T3i is the first SLR to have digital zoom for video.

          As for video snapshot mode, here’s how Canon explains it: “Consumers can now record a series of two-, four- or eight-second video clips automatically. The scenes are assembled by the camera into continuous Video Snapshot Album files for easy playback…”. Not sure if that’s the sort of thing you’d be interested in, but it’s there :)

          – Matthew

          Reply

          1. <>

            Not true. Lumix GH2 > Sony A55. SILENT autofocus during video like a camcorder. Only some were released to US. Panasonic replied to an email and said there will be full US release in March.

            Also blows away Canons in many other aspects.
            Lumix GH2 has 1. greater than 12 min record time. 2. Can use ANY lens from any manufacturer with adapter. 3. Has full 1080 video out (think big hard drive with endless record time for video) 4. Does not have Canon’s terrible moire issue. 5. Has far less rolling shutter distortion (panning left or right)

            And the GH2 is only $300 more than the 60D.

            Oh yeah, has a touch-screen.

            Reply

            1. Ahh yes, I’d forgotten about the GH2 . Panasonic has made some very impressive cameras over the past couple of years, actually, particularly when it comes to video.

              It’s a micro 4/3rds, so I’m not sure that I really consider it a good comparison for these APS-C sensor cameras, but it certainly does have its advantages. Like other MFTs, it has an electronic viewfinder like the Sony, which is really what separates these cameras from SLRs.

              – Matthew

              Reply

              1. Thanks for the GH2 nod. I didn’t mean to hijack the thread. Your reviews are very in depth and helpful.

                I mentioned it because I am a freelance art director who is in need of a DSLR that shoots good video too and for the last six months have been comparing the 5DM2 vs 60D vs T2(3)i and Lumix GH2.

                While the 5DM2 is the camera of choice for Doc film makers, it’s a bit out of my price range. And I’m guessing the 5DM3 will be released later this year. (hopefully with an upgraded processor and Canon video issues fixed)

                Though I love Canons, I keep coming back to the Lumix GH2 mainly for the silent autofocus. I’ve also read it will autofucus faster than any camera on the market.

                The delay of full US launch has had me eyeing the 60D. Though that T3i looks very very nice.

  55. Hi Matthew,

    I too am debating which one to buy, although I’m leaning towards the 60D.
    I’m one of those beginners you’ve mentioned a few times. I’ve only used point and shoot, and loved those extra settings on my Canon SX20. Sunset was my favorite (Yes, I’m embarrassed). Anyway, it’s time to grow up a little and learn how to shoot.
    Am I a T3i or a 60D?

    Thanks for all your help in this article.

    Brian

    Reply

    1. Hi Brian,

      It sounds like either one would be a really good choice. I can see how the guide of the T3i might be helpful in teaching a person how to get more out of their controls. If this will be your first SLR, then the t3i might really be right for you. However…. if you’re planning on taking a photography class or seminar (always a good idea) or doing some reading or getting some tutorial videos, I can’t help but believe that after 6 months, you’d be much happier with a 60D. If in all honesty, though, you feel like you’ll probably continue doing the same kind of shooting as you are now, you just want a better camera for it… then the T3i would be great.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Thanks Matthew,
        It’s my goal to take classes, and having the 60D will probably get me to classes quicker.
        I mentioned below that the 60D actually has some of those in camera guides you were mentioning. Specifically, the one for more blurry, less blurry. I also found filters that control the intensity of colors, with one specifically for sunsets. So I do have some help with the 60D.
        I REALLY appreciate your help.
        Brian

        Reply

      2. I’m curious about what would make Brian more happy w/the 60D after 6 months if a photography class or seminar were in his future.

        Reply

        1. Hi Bill,

          I had the 60D and t2i in my hands over the weekend and Best Buy.
          The overall feel the 60D is much better for me. Hard to explain, but it feels like a serious camera. Also it seems to be built stronger. The T2i felt like my point and shoot. Still ok, but not like the 60D. Next, everything I’ve heard about the 60D autofocus, including from Matthew makes me feel that I’ll have a better chance to take better photos. When I was testing the cameras, it really did feel like the camera was focusing quicker..All a benefit for a beginner like me. Lastly, in sports mode the quickness between shots was incredible. I’d be happy with the t2i, but I’m ecstatic with the 60D. Again, giving a beginner like me a better chance of getting a good action shot.
          I also thought I was getting a better lense with the 18-135, but it sounds like the Lens that comes with the t3i might be better.
          So I think I made the right choice with the 60D.
          Best Buy was great with me, though. They said that if the t3i comes out within 30 days, I can switch if i like it better.

          Reply

          2. Regarding the lenses:

            There are different issues to take into consideration when saying that one lens is better than another, so let me qualify my earlier remarks.

            There is, of course, optical quality… which includes things like resolution, distortion, chromatic aberration, vignetting, and consistency across the frame.

            Then there are design related elements: maximum aperture, type of focusing motor, image stabilization, whether it’s internal focusing or external, build quality… etc.

            I usually find that optical quality is the most important thing in a lens, but there are also times when a lower optical quality lens is best for a situation. A USM lens (which focus faster) might be more important for a newspaper sports photographer, even if an equivalent lens with a standard micro-motor had higher resolution, since newsprint (or online) isn’t going to show many differences in optical quality anyway.

            So, it’s always important to keep your own particular needs in mind when considering a lens.

            – Matt

            Reply

            1. I see you’re ahead of me already again :)

              Personally, I always buy a camera body alone instead of as a kit, and then buy the exact lenses that I need. But there are LOTs of lenses and lots of good choices, so unless you have some particular reason to have a preference for one or another right now, you might want to just start with the kit lens and go from there. Generally speaking, lenses these days are all of excellent quality compared to the best lenses available 20 years ago, so most people shouldn’t worry too much about minor differences in optical quality.

              – Matthew

              Reply

  56. I’m a newbie trying to decide between the as yet unreleased T3i and 60D, but I’m not sure what in camera guides and program modes the 60D is missing that you’re referring to. Could you elaborate?

    Reply

    1. Hi Bill,

      The T3i has several features aimed at giving more understanding and flexibility to users who are using the beginner modes on the program dial. The “In-Camera Guide” is pretty much what it sounds like; for each of the major settings in the camera, there’s a new “guide” screen on the LCD that describes what changing that setting does. The guide for shutter speed will undoubtedly remind you that increasing the speed will stop motion, while the one for aperture will remind you that using a larger aperture will make the background more blurry, etc. Here’s an example provided by Canon:

      The “Basic” modes in the camera (Portrait, Landscape, Sports, etc… the ones with little icons on the dial) are now Basic +. Essentially, this means that when you’re shooting in one of these modes, you’ll get some extra options on the LCD to make some simple changes to the color and lighting of the scene. Keep in mind, though, that most of these will really only be of any consequence if you’re shooting jpg… and if you haven’t already read my other tirades on the subject… you really should be shooting RAW, right from the beginning.

      Finally, the Full-Automatic mode (indicated by the green square icon on EOS cameras dating back at least to the early 1990s) is now the A+ mode (Automatic +). This is just like the previous automatic mode, only more so. The idea is that the camera will be able to compare your scene with a database of images and automatically optimize the settings for each particular shot you take… just in case you wanted a little bit less control over the creative process. The camera will auto-detect whether you’re taking a portrait, for example, and optimize the settings for portraiture.

      There are other in-camera processing options, but since I generally frown on in-camera processing (for the same reasons that I frown on shooting jpg), I don’t recommend using them, and I think it’s not really worth comparing them… since good quality photos can be post-processed by anyone with a computer. It’s much much more important to get high quality photos to begin with. For more information on the specific details of the in-camera processing options, I suggest you take a look at Canon’s website.

      – Matthew

      Reply

      1. Matthew,

        Thank you for taking the time to respond. I’ve been leaning toward the 60D, but given how overwhelmed I am with understanding everything about F-Stops, Aperture, etc., I’m now thinking the extra “help” might be beneficial for me the first go around. For a total newbie like myself, would that be your take as well?

        Another question I have for you is, I’m mostly looking to take pictures of my kids (3,4,7,8) who are of course often active, and are now getting into basketball (bad light, but small gym w/no real “seating”, so you are right on the floor with them). I understand that a prime lens might be best for that given the “speed” of them compared to zoom lenses, but for general purpose shooting and learning, would I be better w/the kit lens that comes w/the T3i or just getting the body and a different lens?

        For reference, these are the two lenses that come w/the two models at my local BestBuy:
        The T3i comes with an EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 image-stabilized zoom lens
        The 60D comes with an EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 image-stabilized lens

        Note that I’m sure I can get better prices online, but I’m using gift cards for a significant portion of the purchase.

        Again, thanks for your time and the excellent comparison article!

        Bill

        Reply

        1. @Brian – A good point: the 60D has many of the feature + / ambience controls, like the one pictured above, but generally without the extra “guide” information (the first two lines at the top), which can sometimes make them a little more cryptic, though certainly not tricky. :)

          @Bill – I’ll have to admit my ignorance here of in-camera guides and their general usefulness. They didn’t exist when I learned photography :) I’d actually be just as concerned that it will make you more reliant on the explanations in the camera and you wouldn’t actually learn the theory… but I can’t say from experience. I suppose I’ll leave that matter up to you :)

          A prime lens is really helpful for basketball if you aren’t using flash equipment, but the depth of field can be so shallow that getting acceptable focus in the frame is sometimes difficult.

          The 18-55mm lenses that come with both kits are remarkably good, optically, for zoom lenses. The new one (the mark II comes with the T3i) is better, as you might expect. You’ll probably find that a zoom lens is a lot more helpful for general shooting, so it’s a good idea to get the camera with a zoom… and the 50mm f1.8 is only about $100 if you want to try an extra lens for low light situations.

          – Matthew

          Reply

          1. For at least some period of time, I can see where those two additional lines at the top would be beneficial to someone new like myself.

            Your blog post makes the camera differences clear, but I’m curious as to how much of a difference the 9 cross-type focus points in the 60D will mean (in your opinion). Will they mean better, or simply faster auto focussing? Will that feature alone be meaningful enough to sway a purchasing decision?

            My reasons for leaning toward the T3i are:
            – Additional on-screen guidance
            – Better video functionality
            – Lighter
            – Cheaper

            My reasons for leaning toward the 60D are:
            – Improved focus points
            – Better? Kit lens (18-135 vs 18-55)
            – Faster

            Any as yet unstated thoughts on why the T3i might be better for beginners?

            If only the 60D had the improved video support, or the T3i were faster. :D

            Reply

            1. Sorry, I’m having a little trouble keeping up with this article today :)

              To answer your previous comment re: my advice to Bill and hopefully answer this one at the same time…

              The 60D is ultimately the better camera; 9 cross-type points makes a considerable difference compared to 1, it’s a more solid, better built chassis but still quite light (compared to a 7D, for example), faster speeds all around, etc.

              The 9 cross-type points will make a minor improvement in absolute AF speed, but more importantly, they offer more reliable AF; you’ll be able to pull focus in lower contrast situations and in a wider variety of situations when non-cross-type points would cause the camera to just search in and out for a subject. To me, the AF system of the 60D is worth the $100 extra alone.

              So, my suggestion to Bill was that after 6 months of real study, he wouldn’t need the suggestions in the back of the camera anymore (and would probably be shooting in aperture priority, shutter priority, or manual anyway), so it would be a lot more important to have the camera with better performance.

              The kit lens of the 60D, incidentally, is not a great lens. It does have a greater zoom range, but optically, it’s pretty flawed compared to the 18-55, believe it or not. (As a general rule, the longer the zoom range, the harder it is to get good optical quality). You’re better off with a combination of the 18-55 and the 55-250, both of which are very inexpensive and high quality, optically… and you can just carry whichever one you want that fits your needs for a particular day.

              Reply

              1. Ok, so the cross-type points are a big deal. That’s good to know. I’d read that the differences were there, but hadn’t gotten a solid opinion on how meaningful they would be.

                Now, will the video improvements in the T3i be as noticeable? I don’t really understand what the cropping mats offer, but my main focus for video would be clear videos of the kids of course. I’m not necessarily looking to zoom in from far away (say across a soccer field for example). Is that what the digital zoom in the video would be good for? Will both keep my subject in focus for the most part?

                I apologize for all the questions. I’m about done, I promise! :-)

              2. The video improvements are actually pretty limited. Keep in mind that both cameras support the same video quality, frame rates, resolution, and format…. there isn’t really going to be a difference in the video itself except for when you’re using the digital zoom on the T3i (which you’ll probably have to use with a tripod. It’s cool, but some people won’t want to mess with it). It would be great for video of the moon actually :) , or other still subjects.

                Neither one will keep up with kids, when it comes to autofocus. SLRs just aren’t designed for autofocusing video, so video is best handled as a manual focus affair. The cameras can (very slowly) pull AF on a subject that’s relatively stationary, but neither has continuous autofocus (you have to hold down the shutter button part way, as if you were taking a picture).

                The only SLR that’s a real exception to this rule is the Sony A55, which doesn’t have a flip-up mirror, and uses an electronic viewfinder… so it has great AF performance for video. It does have it’s own related problems, though…. if you’re curious, there’s an article or two on this website about it.

                The Nikon D7000 and D3100 have continuous AF during video, but its also useless for moving subjects.

                – Matthew

          2. You’re referring to the Canon budget lens from the recommendations page, correct? Would that do relatively well (better than my 60D kit lens) in the poor lighting indoor basketball shots? About what distance in feet would that be good for?

            Reply

            1. Hi Bill,

              Yep, I was talking about the two lenses from the low budget page, simply because they are optically good. They are not, however, any better in low light than the 60D’s kit lens, and they are not USM, so they don’t autofocus quite as quickly or quietly, though it’s not a huge difference.

              Distance wise, it really depends on the subject and what you’re trying to get. At 55mm, it will be pretty similar to what you see with the naked eye… it’s very slightly telephoto on a camera with an APS-C sensor like the 60D.

              Incidentally, with the announcement of the T3i, Canon also announced a new 18-55 mm lens; it will have the same overall specs but it should have slightly improved image stabilization (which doesn’t help for stopping action, unfortunately).

              Reply

              1. Ahh, well good, that saves me some money. :)

                I posted in the forums asking for help specifically for the ballgames. If you have any suggestions, I’d love to hear them.

                Thanks again!

  57. Hi Matthew,

    i wanna thank you a lot for your review! im actually planning on buying a camera since im doing graphic design now. and it involves photography too of course. im really going back and forth on getting choosoing what to get.

    if you were to buy, what would you get?
    i guess your opinion would help.

    thanks alot!

    Reply

    1. I’d definitely go for the 60D; that’s an easy choice for me. I almost never use video, and the 60D really has the advantage in every other area (where they aren’t identical)… and the T2i (and probably T3i) feels a little on the light, cheap side to me, so I prefer the feel of the 60D. However, I’m sure that there are people out there who do find video features important, or people who feel like the 60D is just too complex for a first SLR… so I don’t think it’s entirely a one-size-fits-all situation.

      – Matthew

      Reply

  58. Thanks for the review and the addition of weight. I actually will be waiting (hoping) for a slight price drop in the t3i, which will make it a lot more attractive & a perfect present for my girlfriend in a few months.

    Reply

  59. Thank you for writing this blog. I have been looking at getting a new camera, but keep going back and forth between the 60D and the T3i. Your blog answered most of my questions, but I still have one. Do you know if you can use the lenses that fit on the Rebel series with the 60D? Or do you have to buy all new lenses?

    Reply

  60. Hello Matthew,
    As usual, you did a fantastic job comparing the cameras. One more point that you might want to add is the size and weight of the camera.

    Late last year, I offered my wife the choice between the 50D and the T2i. She picked the T2i purely for the weight of the body.

    Reply

    1. Hi Simon, Thanks!

      I thought that I’d mentioned the size and weight issue in passing, but I see that I didn’t make it a significant point, so perhaps that will be worth editing. Thanks for the suggestion.

      – Matthew

      Reply

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